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Posted: 7/31/2015 2:34:01 PM EDT
[#1]
Seriously, a lock just keeps honest people honest. You can not stop a real thief. Just buy one that looks ok and go with that.
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Posted: 7/31/2015 2:39:35 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
More info on that? I've got one of these stuck in my hitch that ain't never coming out 
http://aftermarketautocenter.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/m/amac-img-dt-lbm8200.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Master Lock Version Any better options out there? I want one that can withstand prolonged usage and not rust up. Also, I want to avoid the "barrel" lock type because apparently they are easy to bump with a Bic pen..... 
Thanks in advance for the help! ETA: I want the locking ability to slow down and deter a thief from stealing my bike/cargo carrier when I'm away from my vehicle. Speaking of, who makes a decent bicycle lock? More info on that? I've got one of these stuck in my hitch that ain't never coming out
http://aftermarketautocenter.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/m/amac-img-dt-lbm8200.jpg Diversi-tech appears to have sold out to http://www.fastwaytrailer.com/. I'd contact them and see what they say. If you manage to get it out and don't want it (and it's a zero-rise like you posted) I'll buy it. |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 2:39:45 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use a grade eight bolt and locknut. Thieves probably won't have wrenches, sockets and such to unbolt it. I have never used a lock. I guess I just live in an honest part of flyover country. However, I have considered going to an E-Torx bolt and a distorted thread nut - and also a hole for a pin for safety. The thief might have a Bob Vila Sears fathers-day special socket set under the front seat, but good luck with the E-Torx. 
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Posted: 7/31/2015 2:40:29 PM EDT
[#4]
I put CLP in mine to keep rust out.
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Posted: 7/31/2015 2:51:35 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use a grade eight bolt and locknut. Thieves probably won't have wrenches, sockets and such to unbolt it. Yep. Use a fine thread grade 8 bolt, and run a Stover C nut up tight to the hitch body. The run a second Stover C down on the first nut. Crooks will not take the time to wrench off two nuts. The average battery powered impact will not get the job done - and it will make a lot of racket. And you get a free tool when you surprise them.... |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 3:16:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You will not touch my radiator destroyer! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Why don't you just remove the hitch when not actually using it? You will not touch my radiator destroyer! I had a large heavy hitch in and got rear-ended at 30mph, it just bent the receiver mount down, but the front end of the car was very fucked up. Hood was crumpled, radiator was destroyed, bumper was caved in, and front of the motor was pretty junked up too. |
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Posted: 7/31/2015 3:48:19 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Use a grade eight bolt and locknut. Thieves probably won't have wrenches, sockets and such to unbolt it. When I drive cross country with my trailer, this is what I use. Torque the bolt down to 125-150 ft-lbs and the hitch won't rattle either. |
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Posted: 8/2/2015 6:05:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm still kinda shocked that there isn't a "recommended" solution that everyone just raves about....  |
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