User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 3:11:26 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm curious. Lots of handy folks around here. Is there an Arfcom of home repair?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 3:31:42 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
again, the Kerdi system does away with the need to pre-slope a floor or install a traditional pan. KERDI has been around about 25 years, it's a PROVEN system and wasn't tough to install (my first time doing ANY tile, EVER*) *but I am a Commercial Construction professional who has been renovating and remodeling for 25 years the Hardie cement backer you used will also SUCK all the moisture out of your thinset (MUCH more so than Durock type cement backers), actually creating a weaker bond for the tile. (make sure you completely saturate the board before you apply the thinset.. ) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Needs preslope, liner and mud bed. Backer don't go on until preslope and liner are in, then you do the mud bed. again, the Kerdi system does away with the need to pre-slope a floor or install a traditional pan. KERDI has been around about 25 years, it's a PROVEN system and wasn't tough to install (my first time doing ANY tile, EVER*) *but I am a Commercial Construction professional who has been renovating and remodeling for 25 years Quoted:
Ok, well besides the niche what is wrong? I got backer board everywhere, a slopped mortar bed, adjustable drain, and lots of sealant. the Hardie cement backer you used will also SUCK all the moisture out of your thinset (MUCH more so than Durock type cement backers), actually creating a weaker bond for the tile. (make sure you completely saturate the board before you apply the thinset.. ) No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 3:51:39 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 4:01:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. I just watched it once and thought "Hey, if thin-set would adhere to truck bed liner, wouldn't that be easier and just as water-proof ? " |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 4:22:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just watched it once and thought "Hey, if thin-set would adhere to truck bed liner, wouldn't that be easier and just as water-proof ? " Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. I just watched it once and thought "Hey, if thin-set would adhere to truck bed liner, wouldn't that be easier and just as water-proof ? " sure.... spend $700 spraying the entire shower then install the Kerdi system ($400-$700), and for $1,400, you'll be ready to start your tile.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 4:38:18 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. If in fact op is using Kerdi? I've been installing the system for 15 years and have been building custom showers for over 20, have been to Coverings conventions where all the big player reps (including Schluter) attends. I sure as shit didn't seek out to Google for my training. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 4:41:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
sure.... spend $700 spraying the entire shower then install the Kerdi system ($400-$700), and for $1,400, you'll be ready to start your tile.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
No shit bud, I doubt op is using Kerdi, as he would have installed the floor of the shower before backer on the walls. still possible to use it though, the sloped foam insert can be waterproofed with the hardie backer going behind it.. (since both the hardie backer and the sloped insert will have the Kerdi cloth installed. he'll still have to tape the joints.. all is not lost, but he should have sought out better advice before starting.. (for future reference, if a google search yields 75 links to do it "X" way and 1 link to do it "Y" way, "Y" way isn't the right way... ) I've been remodeling and building things for the last 30 years and I watched that Schluter video and read over the instructions about 10 times before I made the decision to buy the system and try it out.. I just watched it once and thought "Hey, if thin-set would adhere to truck bed liner, wouldn't that be easier and just as water-proof ? " sure.... spend $700 spraying the entire shower then install the Kerdi system ($400-$700), and for $1,400, you'll be ready to start your tile.. Awww Man. I'm just looking for an easier solution that doesn't cost much. Maybe like this ? Hercules bed liner $25 per can IF the thin-set would stick to a roll-on type bed liner, then - in theory - you should be able to tile right on the liner and have a water-tight shower stall. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 5:46:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Im already past the budget. Cant go with the Kerdi.
As far as the shower pan goes. All that is laid down is the sand base mortar which is slopped toward the drain.. I can still take the backer board off, install membrane, and put the back board back up. Then lay the mortar thin set and tiles. I dont see an issure with that, |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 7:08:11 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im already past the budget. Cant go with the Kerdi. As far as the shower pan goes. All that is laid down is the sand base mortar which is slopped toward the drain.. I can still take the backer board off, install membrane, and put the back board back up. Then lay the mortar thin set and tiles. I dont see an issue with that, Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im already past the budget. Cant go with the Kerdi. As far as the shower pan goes. All that is laid down is the sand base mortar which is slopped toward the drain.. I can still take the backer board off, install membrane, and put the back board back up. Then lay the mortar thin set and tiles. I dont see an issue with that, yes, you'll have to remove the wall panels and run the plastic (it's a vinyl material, possibly PVC?) up the walls to a point above the uppermost seam in the shower or shower head, whichever is lower. make sure you properly fold and seal all the joints at the inside and outside corners and where the material overlaps (it is only about 40" wide so you'll have several joints) - it has to wrap over the curb at the door, you can't really use that system in a low slope application. then, stop up the drain and water test it for 24 hours (making sure the water level doesn't drop at all now you're good to go with re-installing the wall boards and building your thick set mudbed for the tile to sit on must be at least 1.5" thick i believe (can only slope to nothing at the drain). then you can tile. Quoted:
If in fact op is using Kerdi? I've been installing the system for 15 years and have been building custom showers for over 20, have been to Coverings conventions where all the big player reps (including Schluter) attends. I sure as shit didn't seek out to Google for my training. im a quick study. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 7:15:50 PM EDT
[#10]
You understand that backer board and tile allow moisture to penetrate?
Water does not damage either, but it sure as h*ll will damage the wood they are mounted on. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 8:09:27 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Im already past the budget. Cant go with the Kerdi. As far as the shower pan goes. All that is laid down is the sand base mortar which is slopped toward the drain.. I can still take the backer board off, install membrane, and put the back board back up. Then lay the mortar thin set and tiles. I dont see an issure with that, Op, did you burn thinset into the concrete before doing the sand topping? Check out the John Bridge forum on how to construct a shower with a mudbed. The preslope, liner, mud bed, drain install, curb and the way to waterproof it are very important if you want a shower that will last. I'm not trying to bust your balls, I do this for a living and don't mind pointing good folks to the right places to learn it before they have a disaster on their hands. I tear out 5 or 6 custom showers a year that are done incorrectly on houses that are less than a year old. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/4/2015 8:47:52 PM EDT
[#12]
OP,
you certainly dont want to mess it up.. mold will start growing immediately and could spread in the wall cavities and throughout the other rooms adjacent the bathroom and of course, you could mess the floors up in the adjacent areas if the shower leaks. from where you are.. I'd highly recommend paying a tile guy to build you a shower pan (they will do just that part.. around here, it's about $450). if you dont go that route, drop the money on the KERDI waterproofing system (about the same price, but it's got a proven water barrier and the tile installs directly over it...) good luck.. of course, we'll be here if you need any more help or advice.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2015 1:17:07 AM EDT
[#13]
I appreciate the help men. I am going to take the backer board out and put the membrane down. Once the membrane is down ill lay down some more bed for the tile to rest on. when that cures im going to start laying tile down.
The main resource for constructing this was youtube. Ill post the video below. Paying someone to do the work and the kerdi are not an option, 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2015 1:22:21 AM EDT
[#14]
I took a break from the shower to see what my best option is and laid down my floor tile. It came out pretty good, im happy with the way it turned out. Ill get some pics up tomorrow after i grout it.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/5/2015 7:14:53 AM EDT
[#15]
The guy in the video is an idiot, not the correct way to address corners of a shower liner.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/6/2015 2:46:11 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The guy in the video is an idiot, not the correct way to address corners of a shower liner. Yeah.. that's really not even close to being right.. Here's why.. Capillary action. That tight corner that he just shoved all the liner in creates a tiny crack.. liquids (blood/water/etc) can actually siphon to a point higher than their own level pressure elevation when a tiny crack is present (similar to the way your doctor USED to draw your blood into that tiny tube from a finger prick).. So don't do what he's doing.. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/6/2015 2:53:41 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I appreciate the help men. I am going to take the backer board out and put the membrane down. Once the membrane is down ill lay down some more bed for the tile to rest on. when that cures im going to start laying tile down. The main resource for constructing this was youtube. Ill post the video below. Paying someone to do the work and the kerdi are not an option,  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh3yFtfFbwAJust call a crew out for hot-mop and be sure it won’t leak. Not very expensive. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/6/2015 7:31:53 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just call a crew out for hot-mop and be sure it won’t leak. Not very expensive. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I appreciate the help men. I am going to take the backer board out and put the membrane down. Once the membrane is down ill lay down some more bed for the tile to rest on. when that cures im going to start laying tile down. The main resource for constructing this was youtube. Ill post the video below. Paying someone to do the work and the kerdi are not an option, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh3yFtfFbwAJust call a crew out for hot-mop and be sure it won’t leak. Not very expensive. They only do those in some part's of the country Doc, not sure why but I've seen them fail as well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/6/2015 10:34:49 PM EDT
[#19]
They fail because PVC isn't compatible with rubber/bitumen (hot mop)
So basically, every drain that was ever hot mopped, fails eventually, because most use PVC drain flanges Hot mop isn't the answer for him. Don't forget to run that membrane on all walls up at least 4' (wet wall up to the shower head) If you don't, water will absorb through the grout lines, through the thin set & Hardie backer, and into the wood framing where mold will grow.. You want to be conservative when building a shower, waterproofing is like insurance, make sure you're "covered" |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/13/2015 5:31:10 PM EDT
[#20]
Ok here is an update for you guys.
I took the backer board back out in the shower. I had to break up some of my mortar bed so i just repaired that. What is my next step? Membrane, then tile? |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/13/2015 6:14:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok here is an update for you guys. I took the backer board back out in the shower. I had to break up some of my mortar bed so i just repaired that. What is my next step? Membrane, then tile? post a current pic.. (generally speaking, yes, those are the next steps). if you've still got to put the backer up, I'd recommend changing over to cement board (durock) instead of the hardie.. (it doesn't soak up moisture as badly) |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/13/2015 7:34:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
post a current pic.. (generally speaking, yes, those are the next steps). if you've still got to put the backer up, I'd recommend changing over to cement board (durock) instead of the hardie.. (it doesn't soak up moisture as badly) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Ok here is an update for you guys. I took the backer board back out in the shower. I had to break up some of my mortar bed so i just repaired that. What is my next step? Membrane, then tile? post a current pic.. (generally speaking, yes, those are the next steps). if you've still got to put the backer up, I'd recommend changing over to cement board (durock) instead of the hardie.. (it doesn't soak up moisture as badly) Ill get some pics up tonight. I havent had any trouble with the cement board so far. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/13/2015 11:18:14 PM EDT
[#23]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 12:46:06 AM EDT
[#24]
Liner, flood test, concrete backer board, mudbed then tile.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 5:33:36 AM EDT
[#25]
looks good... process as stated above..
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 6:13:24 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Liner, flood test, concrete backer board, mudbed then tile. So for a newb, the liner goes on stubs? Then backer board? Does the screws or nails not ruin the membrane? I am in a new house and want to remodel bath, the Fiberglass enclosure would be ripped out and I would tile shower and surrounding areas. Have 18" tile on floor now. This thread is inspiring me. Great |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 7:38:59 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So for a newb, the liner goes on stubs? Then backer board? Does the screws or nails not ruin the membrane? I am in a new house and want to remodel bath, the Fiberglass enclosure would be ripped out and I would tile shower and surrounding areas. Have 18" tile on floor now. This thread is inspiring me. Great Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Liner, flood test, concrete backer board, mudbed then tile. So for a newb, the liner goes on stubs? Then backer board? Does the screws or nails not ruin the membrane? I am in a new house and want to remodel bath, the Fiberglass enclosure would be ripped out and I would tile shower and surrounding areas. Have 18" tile on floor now. This thread is inspiring me. Great there are about 4,500 videos on Youtube that will show you the correct process.. go to floor elf . com |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 8:11:07 AM EDT
[#28]
Just don't follow the video I found on YouTube.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 10:26:21 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just don't follow the video I found on YouTube. Everybody, there is a full on tutorial (with pictures) at the John Bridge Forum that is made by a well known installer in the tile industry. He pretty much wrote the book on custom showers. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/14/2015 10:36:55 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So for a newb, the liner goes on stubs? Then backer board? Does the screws or nails not ruin the membrane? I am in a new house and want to remodel bath, the Fiberglass enclosure would be ripped out and I would tile shower and surrounding areas. Have 18" tile on floor now. This thread is inspiring me. Great Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Liner, flood test, concrete backer board, mudbed then tile. So for a newb, the liner goes on stubs? Then backer board? Does the screws or nails not ruin the membrane? I am in a new house and want to remodel bath, the Fiberglass enclosure would be ripped out and I would tile shower and surrounding areas. Have 18" tile on floor now. This thread is inspiring me. Great Would be a great candidate for a Kerdi shower system. The learning curve is intermediate, and the time savings vs building a liner shower on your own is a no brainer. It took a few months under close supervision before anyone would turn me loose on a custom liner shower. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/25/2015 1:37:08 AM EDT
[#31]
I am no expert, on anything, but in the last series of photos, was there an electric line running vertically parallel to show lines? Is that safe?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/27/2015 10:25:07 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am no expert, on anything, but in the last series of photos, was there an electric line running vertically parallel to show lines? Is that safe? happens all the time. usually the electrician tries to keep his branch circuits away from plumbing, but there's no reason it can't be done. (it's not like there is an outlet box and a shower valve in the same stud cavity) |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2015 10:13:53 PM EDT
[#33]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2015 10:15:24 PM EDT
[#34]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2015 10:25:30 PM EDT
[#35]
So what happened OP? In some of the pics I see that the joints are centered over the tile below, and in others they're staggered. As well in some pics the rows are the same height from wall to wall, and in others they've changed.
Did you get better as you progressed, or did you get tired towards the end and started to let things go? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2015 10:36:35 PM EDT
[#36]
Not sure what happened. Kind of learned as I went. I guess if I did it again I would lay out all the tiles prior to putting them up.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 12:02:40 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you are putting tile in the shower, I would not use mastic. I would put RedGard or the equivalent on the walls and then adhere the tile with latex modified thinset. I would put Ditra on the floor and then tile it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You can put wall tile directly on the drywall using mastic. Since your drywall is painted, I would scour it a bit first. Floor tile should go on backer board. Tear up the old laminate first. If you are putting tile in the shower, I would not use mastic. I would put RedGard or the equivalent on the walls and then adhere the tile with latex modified thinset. I would put Ditra on the floor and then tile it. Recently I had to repair my walk-in shower due to a small water leak thanks to grout coming out. In total I had abou a 8 sq ft area I had to re-do so I used the Red Gaurd on the new repair MMR board with compatible thin set. It's not hard work but tedious, however IMO beats the pants out of those tub/shower inserts. Invest in a *good* wet-saw and maybe take a class, what you must do is keep water from penetrating behind the tile at all costs. Tile, grout reaaaaaaal good, seal and follow up with silicon caulk. ETA...Will add, if starting from scratch DO use Duraboard concrete backer board. The Red Gaurd may be overkill but it's cheap insurance IMO. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 7:06:45 PM EDT
[#38]
Does anyone have any experence with the Saniflo upflush toilet?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2015 10:59:50 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Does anyone have any experence with the Saniflo upflush toilet? Not personal experience but did research them when I was looking at possibly needing one in my future house. Good for a small bathroom that is rarely used. Other than that, I would look into something else if possible. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
