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Quoted: I'm using a factory LMT 10.5" SBR (which have undersized gas ports for this very purpose) with a PRI gasbuster charging handle with RTV sealant on the top where it meets the upper receiver. I'm not worried. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Gas in the face does suck balls when shooting a suppressed AR. Unless your gas system is properly tuned to normalize gas system pressures. Where's the derp? I'm using a factory LMT 10.5" SBR (which have undersized gas ports for this very purpose) with a PRI gasbuster charging handle with RTV sealant on the top where it meets the upper receiver. I'm not worried. I recently bought a 18" Noveske Switchblock barrel for this reason. Haven't tested it yet. There are 3 positions, regular, suppressed and off. They are easily selectable without tools (Assuming it's not red hot), none of the 3 settings can be adjusted. In theory, Noveske tuned it for the barrel length and typical loads. My standard 16 inch AR was clearly overgassed with the suppressor attached. |
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wish i had known what would happen to the approval times. i would have bought a lot more... |
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I recently bought a 18" Noveske Switchblock barrel for this reason. Haven't tested it yet. There are 3 positions, regular, suppressed and off. They are easily selectable without tools (Assuming it's not red hot), none of the 3 settings can be adjusted. In theory, Noveske tuned it for the barrel length and typical loads. My standard 16 inch AR was clearly overgassed with the suppressor attached. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Gas in the face does suck balls when shooting a suppressed AR. Unless your gas system is properly tuned to normalize gas system pressures. Where's the derp? I'm using a factory LMT 10.5" SBR (which have undersized gas ports for this very purpose) with a PRI gasbuster charging handle with RTV sealant on the top where it meets the upper receiver. I'm not worried. I recently bought a 18" Noveske Switchblock barrel for this reason. Haven't tested it yet. There are 3 positions, regular, suppressed and off. They are easily selectable without tools (Assuming it's not red hot), none of the 3 settings can be adjusted. In theory, Noveske tuned it for the barrel length and typical loads. My standard 16 inch AR was clearly overgassed with the suppressor attached. I was looking at the switchblocks, but went ahead and got one of the MicroMOA Govnah's after seeing all of Amphibian's posts on here. I haven't shot the gun with it yet. Its a pretty neat design though. |
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I was looking at the switchblocks, but went ahead and got one of the MicroMOA Govnah's after seeing all of Amphibian's posts on here. I haven't shot the gun with it yet. Its a pretty neat design though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Gas in the face does suck balls when shooting a suppressed AR. Unless your gas system is properly tuned to normalize gas system pressures. Where's the derp? I'm using a factory LMT 10.5" SBR (which have undersized gas ports for this very purpose) with a PRI gasbuster charging handle with RTV sealant on the top where it meets the upper receiver. I'm not worried. I recently bought a 18" Noveske Switchblock barrel for this reason. Haven't tested it yet. There are 3 positions, regular, suppressed and off. They are easily selectable without tools (Assuming it's not red hot), none of the 3 settings can be adjusted. In theory, Noveske tuned it for the barrel length and typical loads. My standard 16 inch AR was clearly overgassed with the suppressor attached. I was looking at the switchblocks, but went ahead and got one of the MicroMOA Govnah's after seeing all of Amphibian's posts on here. I haven't shot the gun with it yet. Its a pretty neat design though. I'm currently building a Innovative Arms WAR upper with a Noveske 16" barrel. Will have to update when I get it all together. Since it's not sitting on the gas block, heat hopefully shouldn't be as much of an issue. Let us know how the MicroMOA works out because I wouldn't mind retrofitting some of my older uppers with it. |
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Three things I learned buying a rifle can: 1) I "went backwards"... I bought a rifle can first, then a pistol can and then a 22 can. And I use them the most in the reverse order. My 22 can gets the most use, followed by the pistol can. Mostly because of number 2... 2) No matter what you do a rifle can is still "too loud". Yes you can find subsonic rifle ammo that doesn't cycle your action, but that kind of solves one problem and introduces another. It basically turns a huge boom into a smaller boom and you will still need earpro almost all of the time unless you can stand having your ears rung still. 3) Almost every rifle can will to human ears sound just like all the others... the real difference between them is WEIGHT. Buy the lightest can you can afford because suppressors are lifetime purchases for the most part and a huge hunk of steel hanging off the end of your barrel tires you out faster. If I had to do it all over again I would buy my 22 can FIRST. Then after playing with that for YEARS I'd buy my pistol can. Then honestly I would probably NEVER get around to buying my rifle can. The "bang for your buck" is just not there with rifle cans in my opinion. The ammo will always be supersonic (resulting in a loud sonic crack) unless you custom reload subsonic and live with your semiauto becoming a bolt action. I'd rather have the best 22 can and a million rounds of subsonic 22 than my rifle can 9 days out of 10. View Quote This is good solid advice. Every body knowledgable about cans has told me pretty much the same thing. |
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Agreed. You can put a 7.62 can on a 5.56 rifle and it's almost as quiet as a dedicated 5.56 can. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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If you're only buying one can get a .308 instead of a 5.56. Agreed. You can put a 7.62 can on a 5.56 rifle and it's almost as quiet as a dedicated 5.56 can. +1 and a great option. I've worked this well. |
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This is good solid advice. Every body knowledgable about cans has told me pretty much the same thing. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Three things I learned buying a rifle can: 1) I "went backwards"... I bought a rifle can first, then a pistol can and then a 22 can. And I use them the most in the reverse order. My 22 can gets the most use, followed by the pistol can. Mostly because of number 2... 2) No matter what you do a rifle can is still "too loud". Yes you can find subsonic rifle ammo that doesn't cycle your action, but that kind of solves one problem and introduces another. It basically turns a huge boom into a smaller boom and you will still need earpro almost all of the time unless you can stand having your ears rung still. 3) Almost every rifle can will to human ears sound just like all the others... the real difference between them is WEIGHT. Buy the lightest can you can afford because suppressors are lifetime purchases for the most part and a huge hunk of steel hanging off the end of your barrel tires you out faster. If I had to do it all over again I would buy my 22 can FIRST. Then after playing with that for YEARS I'd buy my pistol can. Then honestly I would probably NEVER get around to buying my rifle can. The "bang for your buck" is just not there with rifle cans in my opinion. The ammo will always be supersonic (resulting in a loud sonic crack) unless you custom reload subsonic and live with your semiauto becoming a bolt action. I'd rather have the best 22 can and a million rounds of subsonic 22 than my rifle can 9 days out of 10. This is good solid advice. Every body knowledgable about cans has told me pretty much the same thing. Everything but what he says about rifle cans is good advice. I hardly ever shoot anything unsuppressed anymore. There is just no reason for all the noise. A good rifle can will make your rifle sound like an unsuppressed .22LR. It will also reduce recoil. You should buy the most durable & quiet rifle can you are able to afford. Not the lightest. It should also be 30 caliber for versatility, and so you can see why 300 BLK is so popular with suppressor owners. |
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Everything but what he says about rifle cans is good advice. I hardly ever shoot anything unsuppressed anymore. There is just no reason for all the noise. A good rifle can will make your rifle sound like an unsuppressed .22LR. It will also reduce recoil. You should buy the most durable & quiet rifle can you are able to afford. Not the lightest. It should also be 30 caliber for versatility, and so you can see why 300 BLK is so popular with suppressor owners. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Three things I learned buying a rifle can: 1) I "went backwards"... I bought a rifle can first, then a pistol can and then a 22 can. And I use them the most in the reverse order. My 22 can gets the most use, followed by the pistol can. Mostly because of number 2... 2) No matter what you do a rifle can is still "too loud". Yes you can find subsonic rifle ammo that doesn't cycle your action, but that kind of solves one problem and introduces another. It basically turns a huge boom into a smaller boom and you will still need earpro almost all of the time unless you can stand having your ears rung still. 3) Almost every rifle can will to human ears sound just like all the others... the real difference between them is WEIGHT. Buy the lightest can you can afford because suppressors are lifetime purchases for the most part and a huge hunk of steel hanging off the end of your barrel tires you out faster. If I had to do it all over again I would buy my 22 can FIRST. Then after playing with that for YEARS I'd buy my pistol can. Then honestly I would probably NEVER get around to buying my rifle can. The "bang for your buck" is just not there with rifle cans in my opinion. The ammo will always be supersonic (resulting in a loud sonic crack) unless you custom reload subsonic and live with your semiauto becoming a bolt action. I'd rather have the best 22 can and a million rounds of subsonic 22 than my rifle can 9 days out of 10. This is good solid advice. Every body knowledgable about cans has told me pretty much the same thing. Everything but what he says about rifle cans is good advice. I hardly ever shoot anything unsuppressed anymore. There is just no reason for all the noise. A good rifle can will make your rifle sound like an unsuppressed .22LR. It will also reduce recoil. You should buy the most durable & quiet rifle can you are able to afford. Not the lightest. It should also be 30 caliber for versatility, and so you can see why 300 BLK is so popular with suppressor owners. Yes I agree. I will be getting to NFA when the wife finishes school .22 then pistol then rifle. |
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I have an AWC Raider. I wish I'd have bought a .338 Thundertrap instead and just shot all my sub calibers in that instead.
the can is amazing, pretty heavy but very small and solid. i wish I would have not let some dumbass russian shoot it at the range where he didn't tighten it all the way and I got a tiny baffle strike. doesn't affect the shooting, but I hat looking at it. |
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I have a 18T AAC 762SD that weighs 20oz and the mount sucks but it works.
I just ordered a Griffin M4SD II as I want it to mount to standard A2 flash hiders that I have on most of my rifles. I could have gotten a Titanium HALO for $175 more (when they hit the market) but it was only 4oz lighter and quite frankly Gemtech doesn't list what series of Titanium it is which makes a BIG difference as to its durability. I hope to get down below 140db on my 12.5" SBR with the Griffin which will be fine. If you want movie quiet the only way is 22LR or 300BLK w/ subs and even that is still 120db or so. |
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That AAC 's 51T mount basically sucks. I would have ponied for the Surefire at the time or now I would buy a Silencerco.
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5.56 suppressor is the last on my list after having gotten a .45, 9mm, 7.62 and .22LR can.
Like everyone says, the .22LR is very fun, and that might just be a function of .22LR just being a fun round to shoot anyway. 300 Blackout subsonic from an AR rules all though. |
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That AAC 's 51T mount basically sucks. I would have ponied for the Surefire at the time or now I would buy a Silencerco. Why does it suck? It doesn't. Some of them have one tooth worth of play. They can be tightened up easily if it bothers you. Surefire suppressors are loud and crappily made. He'd have a mount he liked and a loud spot welded suppressor to go on it if he bought one instead. |
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I'm torn between the light weight and small size of my Ranger 2 suppressor and the usefulness of a .308 QD.
If you have a .308 rifle, get a QD 308 for both. |
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I love my Gemtech halo and have no regrets. It is a bit heavy, but that does not bother me. The ability to (with caveats) put it onto any A1 or A2 flash suppressor is pretty cool. View Quote I found one of these while I was in Bagram. Fell out of some high speed dudes bags. I tried to convince the CID folks to let me keep it, but they said no . eta: wow that's an old post I quoted... |
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Quoted: It doesn't. Some of them have one tooth worth of play. They can be tightened up easily if it bothers you. Surefire suppressors are loud and crappily made. He'd have a mount he liked and a loud spot welded suppressor to go on it if he bought one instead. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That AAC 's 51T mount basically sucks. I would have ponied for the Surefire at the time or now I would buy a Silencerco. Why does it suck? It doesn't. Some of them have one tooth worth of play. They can be tightened up easily if it bothers you. Surefire suppressors are loud and crappily made. He'd have a mount he liked and a loud spot welded suppressor to go on it if he bought one instead. |
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That AAC 's 51T mount basically sucks. I would have ponied for the Surefire at the time or now I would buy a Silencerco. Why does it suck? It doesn't. Some of them have one tooth worth of play. They can be tightened up easily if it bothers you. Surefire suppressors are loud and crappily made. He'd have a mount he liked and a loud spot welded suppressor to go on it if he bought one instead. Nope. I'm a non-fanboy of Surefire though. |
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Quoted: Nope. I'm a non-fanboy of Surefire though. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: That AAC 's 51T mount basically sucks. I would have ponied for the Surefire at the time or now I would buy a Silencerco. Why does it suck? It doesn't. Some of them have one tooth worth of play. They can be tightened up easily if it bothers you. Surefire suppressors are loud and crappily made. He'd have a mount he liked and a loud spot welded suppressor to go on it if he bought one instead. Nope. I'm a non-fanboy of Surefire though. |
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Great info.
One question I have is regarding an SBR upper for use in 5.56 with a dedicated suppressor. What is the main advantage/need for a Noveske type "switch block"? I'm aware it's for gas regulation but why are they offered in only 5.56 as far as I can tell. You dont see them offered with .300 BLK uppers? Is it a caliber specific issue? Are they needed? Or can I get the same functionality with a non switch block? I'm interested in a11.5 or 12.5" upper in 5.56 to be used with a dedicated can and this subject is still unclear to me. |
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Great info. One question I have is regarding an SBR upper for use in 5.56 with a dedicated suppressor. What is the main advantage/need for a Noveske type "switch block"? I'm aware it's for gas regulation but why are they offered in only 5.56 as far as I can tell. You dont see them offered with .300 BLK uppers? Is it a caliber specific issue? Are they needed? Or can I get the same functionality with a non switch block? I'm interested in a11.5 or 12.5" upper in 5.56 to be used with a dedicated can and this subject is still unclear to me. View Quote I have shot a switch block barreled sbr upper (with a gas buster charging handle) and I felt I got more gas in the face than with my 10.5 and Syrac Ordnance gas block after adjustment and a BCM charging handle. Same Saker 5.56 with both setups. I was looking real hard at the switch block after shooting my sbr in then pistol config. The gas was terrible. Got the Syrac and it all went away. Felt recoil was different too. |
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Well, your you're slacking, you haven't posted the pic yet. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Nope. I'm a non-fanboy of Surefire though. New20122 isn't here. The destructive power of "the pic" is only fully realized when a Surefire fanboy has to gaze upon it. |
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Quoted: Great info. One question I have is regarding an SBR upper for use in 5.56 with a dedicated suppressor. What is the main advantage/need for a Noveske type "switch block"? I'm aware it's for gas regulation but why are they offered in only 5.56 as far as I can tell. You dont see them offered with .300 BLK uppers? Is it a caliber specific issue? Are they needed? Or can I get the same functionality with a non switch block? I'm interested in a11.5 or 12.5" upper in 5.56 to be used with a dedicated can and this subject is still unclear to me. View Quote If it is going to be a dedicated suppressed setup then you can use something like my baby Govnah which is only $20 to restrict the port size down to where it should be for suppressed only usage. The port in the block is .043 and you just open it to whatever is optimal for your configuration. For a 11.5" 5.56 DEPENDING on the barrel, buffer, spring, ammo and BCG used will be around .046 - .052 for suppressed. It is not so simple to say X caliber, X length gas system and X length barrel = X size gas port. You can read my article discussing that here: http://micromoa.com/?page_id=855 All 3 of those uppers have 10.5" barrels in them. We tested them with the same ammo (LC M855), BCG and lower (lower had H2 buffer installed, standard power (white) Sprinco spring. Uppers were dry and not lubed for the testing since varying amounts of lube can skew the test results. All 3 ended up locking the bolt back on an empty mag consistently at 3 different port sizes: The top one was .076" The middle one was .063" The bottom one was .070" Also, all 3 of the above barrels have had less than 100 rounds fired through them so none were worn out. If you want to be able to quickly switch from suppressed to un-suppressed then our regular Govnah does that with no special tools. Just use a bullet to push the regulator plate or your finger if you can get it in there with your rail system. Below is a video taking at high speed (480FPS) showing the difference between regulated and unregulated. Both are shot at the same 480 FPS and the first shot is at the same time. Both videos are the exact same gun, fired in full auto 10 rounds, M855, H2 buffers in BOTH. Only difference is the one in the lower right is regulated. There was so much gas coming out of the unregulated that it fouled up the glass in front of the camera. If you look closely, you can also see more recoil on the unregulated. I could feel the buffer bottoming out. VS the regulated, you can barely make out any gas coming out of the ejection port and 3 rounds are fired after the unregulated has finished its 10 rounds since it is about 200 RPM slower when regulated vs unregulated. I have a lot of people using Govnah's for 300BLK, 6.5, 6.8 and .308. I only offer pre-determined port sizes for 5.56 since I can fall back on a standard military configuration to do the port size testing...standard power spring, H2 buffer, milspec BCG and LC M855 ammo. There is no 'milspec' 300BLK ammo which is a big variable not being able to test with a 'standard' ammo. So most people that buy Govnah's for those calibers just open them up the regulator plates to their desired port sizes. However, I have done some of the legwork regarding port sizes for 300 BLK for various barrel lengths to help people get in the ballpark....http://micromoa.com/?page_id=496 Every Gonvah comes with 2 regulator plates so end users can tinker with one if desired. |
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Handled an AAC 7.62 and 5.56 can today, as well as a YHM Ti can.
The 7.62 can wasn't that much bigger or heavier than the 5.56 can. Both weighed a lot more than the YHM Ti can. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Handled an AAC 7.62 and 5.56 can today, as well as a YHM Ti can. The 7.62 can wasn't that much bigger or heavier than the 5.56 can. Both weighed a lot more than the YHM Ti can. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote The Ti is great can, but don't go that route if mag dumps or full auto are your thing. just my 2 cents. |
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The Ti is great can, but don't go that route if mag dumps or full auto are your thing. just my 2 cents. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Handled an AAC 7.62 and 5.56 can today, as well as a YHM Ti can. The 7.62 can wasn't that much bigger or heavier than the 5.56 can. Both weighed a lot more than the YHM Ti can. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile The Ti is great can, but don't go that route if mag dumps or full auto are your thing. just my 2 cents. Agreed. Durability was a huge priority over weight for me. |
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I am thinking about entering the suppressor world and for cost reasons would like to start with a .22. I have a Ruger MKII, with a 6" stainless bull barrel. I am wondering if something like this is a viable option for replacing the bull barrel with a threaded version? I would like to avoid purchasing another pistol unless there is a good reason to do so. Are there other barrel options?
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I am thinking about entering the suppressor world and for cost reasons would like to start with a .22. I have a Ruger MKII, with a 6" stainless bull barrel. I am wondering if something like this is a viable option for replacing the bull barrel with a threaded version? I would like to avoid purchasing another pistol unless there is a good reason to do so. Are there other barrel options? View Quote For almost 300 bucks you can buy a factory threaded 2245 http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/mobile/default.aspx#P6167 |
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I am thinking about entering the suppressor world and for cost reasons would like to start with a .22. I have a Ruger MKII, with a 6" stainless bull barrel. I am wondering if something like this is a viable option for replacing the bull barrel with a threaded version? I would like to avoid purchasing another pistol unless there is a good reason to do so. Are there other barrel options? View Quote Yeah, but that is the receiver, so you're purchasing another pistol. Get your barrel cut down & threaded for about $75 |
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? Yes 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? Not in my opinion. 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? Yes, not recommended. 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? See above. The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg View Quote Do what I did: buy a .22 can and the updated version of the Surefire Mini 7.62. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Do what I did: buy a .22 can and the updated version of the Surefire Mini 7.62. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? Yes 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? Not in my opinion. 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? Yes, not recommended. 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? See above. The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg Do what I did: buy a .22 can and the updated version of the Surefire Mini 7.62. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile How well does the mini suppress? Is there much of a difference between it and the full size? |
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Not as well as the full size 7.62, but close enough. It is the same size as the regular 5.56 silencer which was a big selling point. It will work for my 300BLK SBR well. If you're limited to one centerfire rifle caliber can. One of the short (er) 7.62 cans makes a great "jack of all trades, master of none" choice.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Not as well as the full size 7.62, but close enough. It is the same size as the regular 5.56 silencer which was a big selling point. It will work for my 300BLK SBR well. If you're limited to one centerfire rifle caliber can. One of the short (er) 7.62 cans makes a great "jack of all trades, master of none" choice. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Not as well as the full size 7.62, but close enough. It is the same size as the regular 5.56 silencer which was a big selling point. It will work for my 300BLK SBR well. If you're limited to one centerfire rifle caliber can. One of the short (er) 7.62 cans makes a great "jack of all trades, master of none" choice. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Saw this from another thread. It makes the 762 Mini look like a less-than-ideal choice. Quoted:
I have a 7.62 Mini. It will fit on a 5.56 Surefire mount such as the FH-212A, FH-215 or MB556. It will not fit on the new Surefire SOCCOM mounts. A mini review of the Mini 7.62: - This is a Mini can, and it suppresses like a Mini can (not as well as a full sized.) - 300 BLK subs on an 8" barrel was not hearing safe. AAC M4-2000 on a 10.5" suppresses better for example. I shoot everything with hearing pro but did un-wisely take 1 shot with the Mini and 300 blk subs, I'll never do that again. - shooting supersonics was also nothing special. - Suppression is OK on a 16" SCAR 17s 7.62x51 rifle. It takes down the noise but is far from hearing safe ofc. Added weight up front was minimal. - Shooting the 7.62 Mini on a 10.0" SCAR 16s the supression isn't the best. In a quick side by side test an AAC Mini-4 (5.56 mini can) seemed to be supressing 5.56 better (with ear pro on, judged by a friend and I.) - On the 10" 5.56 I also get a lot of flash out of the can each time. The un-burnt powder seems to be shooting directly out of the barrel through the larger bore. The blast baffle shows very very minimal wear as if the unburnt powder isn't hitting it. This was with a FH-212A on the gun, the break might perform a bit better by directing some of the flash into the blast chamber but i'm not going to run any break on a 10.0" 5.56 gun. - The positive effect on the 5.56 is that blow back and increases back pressure is basically nothing. On my SCAR 16s I was having bad gas-in-the-face blow back problems, with the 7.62 Mini there is no issue and very minimal back pressure increase. - I do prefer the surefire can to my AAC due to the much better mount, better muzzle devices, better quality finish and generally better engineering. |
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg View Quote 1. Yes 2. From SF's site, the delta in weight is 2.5oz 3. Yes, sound suppression is different. 4. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. 5. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. |
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1. Yes 2. From SF's site, the delta in weight is 2.5oz 3. Yes, sound suppression is different. 4. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. 5. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg 1. Yes 2. From SF's site, the delta in weight is 2.5oz 3. Yes, sound suppression is different. 4. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. 5. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. Enough of a difference to justify the smaller size and lesser cost? |
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Enough of a difference to justify the smaller size and lesser cost? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg 1. Yes 2. From SF's site, the delta in weight is 2.5oz 3. Yes, sound suppression is different. 4. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. 5. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. Enough of a difference to justify the smaller size and lesser cost? I'm not trying to be a smart ass but ... I'm not you so I couldn't tell you ... it really depends on your priorities. For me - all full length rifle cans sound about the same to the ear. Short cans are louder, but if your highest is to increase your ability to steer your gun in the intended direction while also being quieter then I would go that way. Otherwise full sized cans have never bothered me for my uses. If you're mostly into guns for their cool factor then you might have an SBR someday and the noise level borders on shitty with a short can. Just some things to consider |
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Like I said, it is a compromise. Those are valid criticisms, but I think you'll run into those problems with any of its competitors. If you plan on buying two centerfire rifle suppressors, you wouldn't be wrong to buy a regular 5.56 can and a full size 7.62, but if you're buying Surefire, you'll spend an extra $1700 (+200) to get a second suppressor.
All that said, Surefire suppressors aren't supposed to meter as well as their competitors, but I like the mounting system and supposed minimal POI shift. On that note: someone here (BigBore maybe) did some testing that showed concentricity of the threads played a major role in POI shift. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I'm not trying to be a smart ass but ... I'm not you so I couldn't tell you ... it really depends on your priorities. For me - all full length rifle cans sound about the same to the ear. Short cans are louder, but if your highest is to increase your ability to steer your gun in the intended direction while also being quieter then I would go that way. Otherwise full sized cans have never bothered me for my uses. If you're mostly into guns for their cool factor then you might have an SBR someday and the noise level borders on shitty with a short can. Just some things to consider View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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A few questions, because I plan on getting my first can by the end of this year. Budget is $1500 including tax stamp. I have a Surefire SOCOM muzzle brake on my 5.56 AR, and I was planning on getting the standard-sized FDE SOCOM 5.56 can for it. 1. Will a 7.62 SOCOM can still attach to the 5.56 muzzle brake? 2. How much heavier is the 7.62 version than the 5.56 version? Enough to make a difference? 3. Is there much of a difference between the Mini and Full-sized Surefire cans? 4. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 5.56 can? 5. Can I shoot 22lr out of a 7.62 can? The only 308 I own is an M1A, so I don't really need a 7.62 can for other calibers. Pic of AR to be suppressed: http://i1346.photobucket.com/albums/p691/nigelcornwallis/20140710_180203-1_zpsuehag6ic.jpg 1. Yes 2. From SF's site, the delta in weight is 2.5oz 3. Yes, sound suppression is different. 4. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. 5. Yes, but 22 is dirty and you can't open most centerfire cans without jail-breaking them. And unclean-able rimfire cans are undesireable, they will eventually junk up. Enough of a difference to justify the smaller size and lesser cost? I'm not trying to be a smart ass but ... I'm not you so I couldn't tell you ... it really depends on your priorities. For me - all full length rifle cans sound about the same to the ear. Short cans are louder, but if your highest is to increase your ability to steer your gun in the intended direction while also being quieter then I would go that way. Otherwise full sized cans have never bothered me for my uses. If you're mostly into guns for their cool factor then you might have an SBR someday and the noise level borders on shitty with a short can. Just some things to consider As of this September I'll finally be allowed to buy a suppressor, so this will be the first of several. I think I would rather have dedicated 22, 5.56, and 7.62 cans that all do their respective jobs well than to have a single can that can do all of those jobs moderately well. And yes, I will also be putting in for a Form 1 on my lower soon as well. I'm planning on taking it down to either 10.3 or 11.5--haven't decided quite yet. Dwell time seems to be the big determining factor there. |
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Good luck with your future tax stamp collection. It is almost as bad as BRD.
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View Quote Trust. FYS (Your Sheriff) |
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