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Link Posted: 12/19/2014 1:41:38 AM EDT
[#1]
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The 'stang was a 95.

I liked to do a lot of weekend road course racing/SCCA stuff back then, so both cars were set up with track suspensions and semi-slick racing tires. Engines were stock.

When I had it mostly dialed in, I could not match my lap times with the Mustang. The Camaro was faster off of the line, but didn't handle very well.
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Not impressed compared to what?

Sadly, the GT Mustang I traded for it


Ok, what year GT mustang?  Mods?

The 'stang was a 95.

I liked to do a lot of weekend road course racing/SCCA stuff back then, so both cars were set up with track suspensions and semi-slick racing tires. Engines were stock.

When I had it mostly dialed in, I could not match my lap times with the Mustang. The Camaro was faster off of the line, but didn't handle very well.


You're nuts, no offense, but I guess it's all subjective.
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 1:42:24 AM EDT
[#2]
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 1:43:40 AM EDT
[#3]
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You're nuts, no offense, but I guess it's all subjective.
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I'm actually willing to accept your explanation as to why a newer car that is better on paper didn't perform better for me
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 1:54:05 AM EDT
[#4]
Good luck with your car OP. Formulas are my favorite F body.
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 11:29:07 PM EDT
[#5]
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I'm using it as a Daily driver...not a TRACK car.
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We still haven't seen pics!
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 11:45:12 PM EDT
[#6]
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What do you race it in? Me and my dad are building my trans am around ultra street rules and for local stuff.

347 stock crank forged rods and pistons
Trick flow 235 heads  with studs
Probly going to do a billet wheeled 76mm turbo
8.50 cage

Hoping to get it to go 5.30s

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Did a tune up on my friends C5 a couple months age.  All in all,  Not horrible until I got to the rear two plugs on the drivers side.  

I had to remove the inner wheel well and use a miles worth of extensions.  Putting it back in was a pain in the ass.  Silicone hose on the extension and pushed onto the plug,  it was kind of a bugger.  

Those two can be hard, but once you learn where to hold your wrench, you don't have to go through all that trouble. I can tell you never had to change them on an Fbody though. That's something you don't forget.



We have a turbo F-body drag car.  

Granted it is not stock.  But I didn't think it was all that bad.



What do you race it in? Me and my dad are building my trans am around ultra street rules and for local stuff.

347 stock crank forged rods and pistons
Trick flow 235 heads  with studs
Probly going to do a billet wheeled 76mm turbo
8.50 cage

Hoping to get it to go 5.30s



It will be mainly raced in street legals and quick eight races.  And a few grudge matches on occasion.  As of now,  it hasn't been raced in competition.

The motor is out of the 82 Camaro that is raced regularly.  It is a fairly stock 6.0 with GM 883 heads and a Holset HX60 turbo.  All the fasteners and studs are ARP.  It really is nothing special right now.  But it is fuckin' fast.



































ETA:  Oh yeah,  This was a powerglide.
The 6.0 murdered it.  
Link Posted: 12/19/2014 11:49:22 PM EDT
[#7]
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We still haven't seen pics!
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I'm using it as a Daily driver...not a TRACK car.


We still haven't seen pics!



THIS!
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 1:14:40 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 1:16:41 AM EDT
[#9]
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lol...It's in the shop!
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I'm using it as a Daily driver...not a TRACK car.


We still haven't seen pics!



THIS!


lol...It's in the shop!

Already taking the advice in this thread. What mods are you making first?
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 1:22:15 AM EDT
[#10]
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Already taking the advice in this thread. What mods are you making first?
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I'm using it as a Daily driver...not a TRACK car.


We still haven't seen pics!



THIS!


lol...It's in the shop!

Already taking the advice in this thread. What mods are you making first?


Anyone with experience with LS motors might get a kick out of this.  

Link Posted: 12/20/2014 1:36:59 AM EDT
[#11]
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It LOOKS fast????????????????????

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They aren't slouches..
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 1:39:34 AM EDT
[#12]
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Those cobra's are quick. Change a pulley and or head unit and they are fast. But most likely ubable to find in the 7k range.
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It's a turd. Go test drive a Nissan Maxima with a CVT and floor it. You'll forget all about that firechicken.



I don't even know that it even means?

An 03-04 cobra, C6 or C7 vette, SRT challenger etc would be viable options for him to suggest to replace a 4th gen Fbody, but a Nissan Maxima?


Those cobra's are quick. Change a pulley and or head unit and they are fast. But most likely ubable to find in the 7k range.


By far the most fun car I've owned. 450+ to the wheels with a pulley swap and bolt ons.


Link Posted: 12/20/2014 2:23:54 AM EDT
[#13]
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Muscle Car:

'70 Coronet.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3127/2326078975_382a5fc5ec.jpg

edited to correct the model year
 
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Now THAT brought an actual smile to my old man face! Do want!!
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 3:02:19 PM EDT
[#14]
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It's going to cost you much more than that to gain 150-200hp.
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lol a modern v6 matches that output


Let me remind everyone:

I don't want to spend the money for a new one.

I drive 3k miles a year.


w/ an LS ,  a few grand could get him another 150-200 hp.

I've got a thirdgen sitting in the driveway.  I say go for it.  F-Bodys are fun.  Put in subframe connectors and you will take care of the weak unibody.


It's going to cost you much more than that to gain 150-200hp.

Wrong.

- LS6 intake - $250
- Headers + full exhaust upgrade - $1200
- Patriot stage II 243 heads (milled for compression) - $1000
(better yet, milled AFR 205's if you have an extra $500)
- G5X4 or comparable camshaft w/ hardened pushrods - $500
- CAI - $150
- 80mm TB - $200
- SVO 30# injectors - $150
- Random bolt-ons that I am forgetting - $500
- EFI Live tune from a highly regarded tuner - $500

All together should be good for at least 450 RWHP with the right tune.

These parts & tune alone can be purchased used for as little as $3,000. Of course you would have to do all of the labor yourself, because paying someone else to install your shit would easily double the cost.
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 3:47:59 PM EDT
[#15]
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Wrong.

- LS6 intake - $250
- Headers + full exhaust upgrade - $1200
- Patriot stage II 243 heads (milled for compression) - $1000
(better yet, milled AFR 205's if you have an extra $500)
- G5X4 or comparable camshaft w/ hardened pushrods - $500
- CAI - $150
- 80mm TB - $200
- SVO 30# injectors - $150
- Random bolt-ons that I am forgetting - $500
- EFI Live tune from a highly regarded tuner - $500

All together should be good for at least 450 RWHP with the right tune.

These parts alone can be purchased used for as little as $3,000. Of course you would have to do all of the labor yourself, because paying someone else to install your shit would easily double the cost.
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lol a modern v6 matches that output


Let me remind everyone:

I don't want to spend the money for a new one.

I drive 3k miles a year.


w/ an LS ,  a few grand could get him another 150-200 hp.

I've got a thirdgen sitting in the driveway.  I say go for it.  F-Bodys are fun.  Put in subframe connectors and you will take care of the weak unibody.


It's going to cost you much more than that to gain 150-200hp.

Wrong.

- LS6 intake - $250
- Headers + full exhaust upgrade - $1200
- Patriot stage II 243 heads (milled for compression) - $1000
(better yet, milled AFR 205's if you have an extra $500)
- G5X4 or comparable camshaft w/ hardened pushrods - $500
- CAI - $150
- 80mm TB - $200
- SVO 30# injectors - $150
- Random bolt-ons that I am forgetting - $500
- EFI Live tune from a highly regarded tuner - $500

All together should be good for at least 450 RWHP with the right tune.

These parts alone can be purchased used for as little as $3,000. Of course you would have to do all of the labor yourself, because paying someone else to install your shit would easily double the cost.


So how did you prove me wrong again?
If you buy the right parts and want a true 450whp from a mustang dyno it's going to cost much more then $3k.
And like you said, if you're not well versed ripping engines apart it will easily double the price.
I see NO WHERE the price list anything about beefing up the drivetrain. Those factory clutches and 10 bolts are fucking weak.

Face it, most people will have $5-$6k to get an ls1 to 450whp and that's a shit ton of money.
And that's assuming they buy once, cry once. Most guys do a round of upgrades and down the road ditch those upgrades and go bigger.

Link Posted: 12/20/2014 7:51:33 PM EDT
[#16]
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So how did you prove me wrong again?
If you buy the right parts and want a true 450whp from a mustang dyno it's going to cost much more then $3k.
And like you said, if you're not well versed ripping engines apart it will easily double the price.
I see NO WHERE the price list anything about beefing up the drivetrain. Those factory clutches and 10 bolts are fucking weak.

Face it, most people will have $5-$6k to get an ls1 to 450whp and that's a shit ton of money.
And that's assuming they buy once, cry once. Most guys do a round of upgrades and down the road ditch those upgrades and go bigger.

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Any gearhead with half of a brain, a garage full of tools, access to the internet, a knowledgeable friend and a refrigerator full of beer could upgrade his stock LS1 to 450 RWHP with $3,000 in the bank. I never said a factory clutch or differential would stand the test of time with the extra power, but it's a decent start if you only a few thousand dollars to work with.

A clutch upgrade really doesn't cost a fortune, and it's something that you can plan for in the future, while driving with the factory clutch. If he went A4, the 4L60E is strong enough to handle that kind of power without having to be immediately upgraded. After the HP boost, 4.10 gears would be the next best upgrade anyway.

You might as well go big the first time (if that's what you want), or else part out & sell the car if you are not satisfied with the performance gain after buying all of those mods.
Link Posted: 12/20/2014 7:57:42 PM EDT
[#17]
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So how did you prove me wrong again?
If you buy the right parts and want a true 450whp from a mustang dyno it's going to cost much more then $3k.
And like you said, if you're not well versed ripping engines apart it will easily double the price.
I see NO WHERE the price list anything about beefing up the drivetrain. Those factory clutches and 10 bolts are fucking weak.

Face it, most people will have $5-$6k to get an ls1 to 450whp and that's a shit ton of money.
And that's assuming they buy once, cry once. Most guys do a round of upgrades and down the road ditch those upgrades and go bigger.

View Quote


Exhaust, cam, nitrous would get you that IF not more. That's maybe 3k.

Do you have a SHO?
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