I use the Hornady hand tool with the bit chucked in my drill press, works awesome, plus I can use the drill press for so many other things.
 

Do you haVE A LINK to this or a picture? I need to buy one and I want to make sure I get the right one the first time. Also, where can I get one without paying more for shipping thean the part? Thanks!

ETA: you can buy just the reamer bit and put it in a drill press http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=422



 

Dillon Super Swage

Hey, I did not see anyone mentioning the Lee Chamfer tool that can also be used for removing crimps.

What are your experience with that?

Same here.  I sold the Super Swager.  I didn't like having to recalibrate it for different kinds of brass.

The Hornady is simple and cheap.

If you mean this LEE 90109.

http://www.grafs.com/product/190235

You may want to refer to the picture on the first page and another pic on the 2nd page (at the bottom).

That style of tool works for some folks and NOT for others.

NOT........for ME.

Aloha, Mark

Sir, you have removed too much metal.

This is a pic of how not to remove a crimp.

Dillon Swager.  I've tried reamers (RCBS and Lyman), dislike that they remove metal in theory, and don't believe that they are as consistent and line up as true.

Adjustment and bent rods have been a complete non-issue for me with the Dillon swager.  As much as I respect Mark for backing the opinion of his friend, I have to discount any comparison on the precision of a reamer to the swager as being closed minded.  Consider that the alignment of the reamer in the pocket is done with a free hand at best (such as using the RCBS reamer on my Trim-Mate) or, both the brass case and reamer held in each hand with a hand reamer.  Also consider the subjective nature of what the user's trigger is to consider when a case is properly reamed when using a hand reamer (or even a powered one).

Measurements would tell the story.  Perhaps to include depth, width, SD on width, trueness to the spec for the primer pocket dimension, trueness to the center line, and smoothness of the primer pocket walls.  Even my opinion is anecdotal. But how could a reamer possibly compare in terms of precision with a swager?

Sure, both (done correctly) will give you the ability to remove the crimp for a subsequent reload, and this isn't usually a critical factor in terms of building a precise handload, but it is hard to argue against a swager for speed, ease of use, and the precision of the operation.  Given the attention often placed on the tightness of the primer pocket as a sign of the future life of a brass case, consistency has value.

I'm against removing the brass, primarily in theory.  You don't remove a lot when reaming out a crimp, but it still hurts your efforts at consistency.  If you're using the brass for a competition load, and intend to weigh and sort cases, won't this skew your results?  Unlike trimming cases, where you have a case length target down to the 1000ths of an inch, how much material is removed decrimping is subjective.

Dunno if this made my point, but it is up to the individual to decide for themselves based on cost, time, and their goals.

Good points about weights of cases and removing metal.  I've struggled with that idea myself (trim and/or ream and the weight changes).

Short range ammo......who really cares?

OK......someone might.

ME......I don't.

But, I suspect that most people will only weigh cases for their long range ammo.  Not mentioning spinning bullets, spinning cases and neck turning etc.........

______________________________________

THEN, as for the hand reamer and centerline.

Well, with the reamer that I use.........the reamer's spud enters the primer pocket and the cutting that is actually done is very limited.  The manufacturer of the brass put the major pocket there, during the manufacturing process.  The reamer spud will follow that major pocket and cut/chamfer the crimp area.  If, the major pocket needs to be enlarged........the reamer will do so.  But, it's usually very little.  Some may even say it's only burnishing the pocket.  And because the bottom of the pocket (depth) isn't cut by the tool (it's in the design).......the reamer is self limiting, when it contacts the bottom of the pocket.

So......in theory, the burnishing/cutting of the major pocket diameter (if, the pocket had been made too small to begin with) along with the chamfer/cutting off of the crimp.......adds/aides with consistency during primer seating.

Anyway, I doubt that a swager will re-center an off center case.  Plus, there is some play to the system.   And, there is nothing wrong with that.

So, again........it's up to YOU, what method YOU choose to use.


Aloha, Mark

PS.........that part about the Dillon and flash hole "obstruction" and/or "significance of the degree of obstruction" is more for the accuracy minded shooters.

As you put it (and I believe it)..........

"Consistency has value."

I do the same.

I've got a Cabela's plastic ammo case full of LC and Prvi brass so I just bought a Dillon.

That is what I do as well and why I am hesitant to use the new swaging feature on my new S1050 as a 3/4 stroke isn't an option and I don't want to sort all of my brass.

Nothing beats the SS600 when you get the rythm down.

Don't forget something to catch the brass shavings on your lap.

I have the lyman case prep center with reamers. Also have the RCBS swager. The swager is faster for me. The case prep center tool is really nice to have.

Really now I beg to differ , watching the 1050  with auto drive works a tad better for me

Don't fool with the Hornady or any of the swagers in my opinion.

Just buy the $20 RCBS crimp reamer and Chuck it in a drill. I've used about every method you can, and have owned almost all of them, and this is the fastest and most consistent method I can find.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0063IDE6A

It is much faster than any swager and not headstamp dependent, and has a "stop" unlike the Hornady to keep you from cutting too much or too crooked. I realize the Hornady has a stop on the inside of the primer pocket, but that typically chews up the PP and can also result in crooked cutting if you're not holding it right.

I don't think it's physically possible to perform a trim faster than with this with the exception of a progressive press setup with an auto case feeder. Literally 1 second in a drill and it's exactly the same every single time... I bought a coupling nut to thread on it to protect the threads when it's in my drill.

Im gonna buy the bit you recommend sir...To go with my swager and other reamers. If its as good as you say I will have every method available. I can swage faster than the reamer that came with my lyman case prep center. But I see the theory behind this piece. I will be ordering large and small. So its all your fault if I dont like them!

Listen to Dryflash the reamer is the only way to go.  The amount of hand motion to ream is 1/3 less than

swaging with the Dillon.  Consider the pricing also.

I've given up on all the reamers being sold on the market by reloading companies. If I had to pick a perfect method it would be a Dillon 1050, second place a Dillon Super Swage. Since I didn't want to spend $100, I bought this little kit from Harbor Freight. Yes, their stuff is crap, no arguments here...but the small countersink, chuck it into a cheap cordless drill, and it will just nick off enough primer crimp to keep primers really tight, and it doesn't leave any chatter marks. The largest one has now been deemed my .30 neck deburr tool of choice. They leave a perfect finish that lacks any discernible tool marks.

I respectfully disagree. Sure, if you're some kind of ham-fisted bafoon who augers out the pocket with a hammer drill, one could easily make their cases look like yours on the left. Those zero flute deburring tools are designed specifically to circumvent tool chatter that fluted deburring tools impart on the work. Examples:

This Federal case was reamed, by hand, with a Hornady tool until it hit its "positive stop." Chatter marks are obvious. Primers seat with mild resistance. Pockets loosen up, depending on headstamp, in as little as the first firing (small FC) or after as little as 2-3 firings (Lake City).



This Lake City case was reamed with a power dril at full speed for almost 2 seconds. Primers seat with the pressure of brand new Lapua brass. Case life, with annealing, is 10+ reloads for Lake City, I'm on a current batch of that old small FC brass that is on its 6th firing and is just now beginning to feel like the pockets reamed by the Hornady tool.




I'm pretty sure the title of this thread was: "Your favorite way to remove primer crimp?"...So if you don't like my way, don't use it. Don't imply that its less "satisfactory" because its not a tool thats made by a reloading company, or you haven't tried it.

Do you think I should contact Hornady and tell them I got bad reamers? My pocket reamers, both large and small can absolutely destroy my primer pockets, with only hand pressure. The way they fluted the reamers to touch the brass in the wall of the pocket allows that material to be altered. By hand, I can enlarge a primer pocket to the point where a primer drops in and out with no resistance. They are so aggressive, I would never power them mechanically.

Dillon 1050 is my favorite way to remove primer crimp.

Mine too next would be the Hornady reamer that I have on a 1/4 hp motor then the SS600, the RCBS press unit I got rid of as it Sucked

Wow that looks nasty. Way too much metal removed.

Dillon Super Swage. Wish I had purchased one a long time before I actually plunked down the money for one.