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Posted: 3/2/2024 4:41:12 PM EDT
Hi folks

Long time AR guy with first mini 14
It’s a stainless GB that I got used.

When I retract the bolt near the BHO / notch on left side of receiver, the bolt gets stuck and I have gently motar the rifle to get it to unstick and close. I’ve oiled the gun and checked the BHO plunger - which actually seemed to make it worse. Also the BHO doesn’t seem to work well with a new factory 20 round magazine. It will just ride over the follower and close. Attachment Attached File


Is there something I can do or does it need to go to Ruger? It’s a 186 series fwiw. Rifle looks basically new, although 27 years old. I have yet to fire the weapon.

Thanks in advance.

Link Posted: 3/2/2024 11:39:18 PM EDT
[#1]
I'd look at these following things:

Kinked recoil spring.

Bent recoil spring guide.

Bent slide.

Trigger/ hammer group binding with bolt.

Slide drag on lower liner under barrel.

You can remove the recoil spring & guide and work the slide/ bolt in the barreled receiver first to see how that feels. Also look
for deep drag marks in stock liner.If no difference, re-assemble that and remove the trigger/ hammer group again leaving
everything else in the stock. To check the trigger/hammer group, close the trigger guard and carefully drop the hammer
using your thump to ease it down. See how smoothly it goes back into the cocked position too as that could be what is impeding
the bolt.

I can't think of anything else at this moment other than assuming the rifle is put together correctly as in all parts are in their proper
place and alignment....like rear of slide in it's channel on right rear of receiver. Let us know what you find (or not find).
Link Posted: 3/3/2024 10:55:10 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By SAN14:
I'd look at these following things:

Kinked recoil spring.

Bent recoil spring guide.

Bent slide.

Trigger/ hammer group binding with bolt.

Slide drag on lower liner under barrel.

You can remove the recoil spring & guide and work the slide/ bolt in the barreled receiver first to see how that feels. Also look
for deep drag marks in stock liner.If no difference, re-assemble that and remove the trigger/ hammer group again leaving
everything else in the stock. To check the trigger/hammer group, close the trigger guard and carefully drop the hammer
using your thump to ease it down. See how smoothly it goes back into the cocked position too as that could be what is impeding
the bolt.

I can't think of anything else at this moment other than assuming the rifle is put together correctly as in all parts are in their proper
place and alignment....like rear of slide in it's channel on right rear of receiver. Let us know what you find (or not find).
View Quote


Thanks so much for the detailed advise. I really like this rifle, hopefully it can be fixed. Much appreciated.
Link Posted: 3/3/2024 11:01:24 AM EDT
[#3]
OP, what type of handguard does in have? I've seen some aftermarket ones bind up the slide and cause feeding/extraction failures.
Link Posted: 3/3/2024 11:20:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: raf] [#4]
Originally Posted By tiger222:
Hi folks

Long time AR guy with first mini 14
It's a stainless GB that I got used.

When I retract the bolt near the BHO / notch on left side of receiver, the bolt gets stuck and I have gently motar the rifle to get it to unstick and close. I've oiled the gun and checked the BHO plunger - which actually seemed to make it worse. Also the BHO doesn't seem to work well with a new factory 20 round magazine. It will just ride over the follower and close. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/61015/66460919-AAD6-42AD-90C3-24461DDCEA03_jpe-3147173.JPG

Is there something I can do or does it need to go to Ruger? It's a 186 series fwiw. Rifle looks basically new, although 27 years old. I have yet to fire the weapon.

Thanks in advance.

View Quote

Check things mentioned above.

Generally, with a Mini that old with unknown amount of use, I would definitely replace the Op-rod spring as a matter of course.  You DO NOT need any sort of "Extra Power" springs for your Mini, so save your money.

I suspect there is something amiss with the bolt lock mechanism.  It is possible grease/dirt has gotten into the mechanism, or the bolt lock spring(s) have failed.  Open up the cover on the side of the rifle by sliding it down (remove op-rod spring first), remove all parts, clean and inspect.  Lightly lube with oil, re-assemble, and test.  If I'm right, the parts most likely involved are:  #24 Bolt Lock Plunger, #25 Bolt Lock Plunger Spring, and #26 Ejector Bolt Lock (which contains a spring).

Make sure to download an Owner's Manual for your exact model of Mini HERE  And read it carefully.

Please report back with results.

If it is necessary to send it back to Ruger, make sure to remove any and all modifications to the rifle beforehand.

STRONGLY suggest obtaining spare parts for your exact Mini from Ruger or from Accuracy Systems Incorporated .  Mostly these parts are Extractor, Ejector (and all associated pieces and springs) as well as a firing pin.  Some of these parts are "fitted" parts and require Ruger to have the Mini to fit them.

I did exactly this long ago; parts and receipt are money in the bank if rifle is sold or if Ruger discontinues the parts.

Link Posted: 3/3/2024 8:46:44 PM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By FOX_OSCAR_hook:
OP, what type of handguard does in have? I've seen some aftermarket ones bind up the slide and cause feeding/extraction failures.
View Quote


stock factory handguard.

Originally Posted By raf:

Check things mentioned above.

Generally, with a Mini that old with unknown amount of use, I would definitely replace the Op-rod spring as a matter of course.  You DO NOT need any sort of "Extra Power" springs for your Mini, so save your money.

I suspect there is something amiss with the bolt lock mechanism.  It is possible grease/dirt has gotten into the mechanism, or the bolt lock spring(s) have failed.  Open up the cover on the side of the rifle by sliding it down (remove op-rod spring first), remove all parts, clean and inspect.  Lightly lube with oil, re-assemble, and test.  If I'm right, the parts most likely involved are:  #24 Bolt Lock Plunger, #25 Bolt Lock Plunger Spring, and #26 Ejector Bolt Lock (which contains a spring).

Make sure to download an Owner's Manual for your exact model of Mini HERE  And read it carefully.

Please report back with results.

If it is necessary to send it back to Ruger, make sure to remove any and all modifications to the rifle beforehand.

STRONGLY suggest obtaining spare parts for your exact Mini from Ruger or from Accuracy Systems Incorporated .  Mostly these parts are Extractor, Ejector (and all associated pieces and springs) as well as a firing pin.  Some of these parts are "fitted" parts and require Ruger to have the Mini to fit them.

I did exactly this long ago; parts and receipt are money in the bank if rifle is sold or if Ruger discontinues the parts.

View Quote


Will give it a shot thx, and appreciate the info!
Link Posted: 3/4/2024 5:45:39 PM EDT
[#6]
Mini 14s like to be run wet.

The old saying is that if it slides grease it, and if it rotates (pins etc) oil it.

For the Mini 14 it’s even simpler.  If it’s shiny grease it, and then lightly oil everything else.

Grease should be applied to the bolt guide lugs where they interface with the rail in the receiver and in the slide recess (grease that heavily).  The shiny parts on the slide also need to be greased, especially the square bit that rides in the track.

Grease the track for the slide in the receiver.

Also grease the recoil spring and guide, and the bottom of the barrel if/where it rubs on the slide.

The back of the bolt where it rubs on the top of the receiver also needs to be greased as well as the mating surface in the receiver.

Grease the top of the hammer where it contacts the bottom of the bolt.
Link Posted: 3/5/2024 1:11:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: raf] [#7]
@tiger222   download and read the Owner's Manual, then watch the multi-part series of Brownell's Videos  on the Mini.

The only thing they leave out is to grease the "hooks" on the trigger guard which slip into recesses for same on the receiver.  This prevents accuracy-destroying wear at those points.  A little bit of grease in the recesses also.
Link Posted: 3/5/2024 3:47:06 PM EDT
[#8]
Check to see if the recoil spring and guide rod are installed correctly. Guide rod tab goes to top of rifle. If installed the opposite way it will jam the bolt.
Link Posted: 3/6/2024 12:37:57 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BuckMan123:
Check to see if the recoil spring and guide rod are installed correctly. Guide rod tab goes to top of rifle. If installed the opposite way it will jam the bolt.
View Quote


OP stated that his Mini is a 186 series....so it has the old op rod that can't be installed upside down. That had been my first thought until I continued
reading the remainder of his post.
Link Posted: 3/16/2024 9:32:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Hi Folks,

Got to spend some time looking the rifle over today and found a few things out.

1: It's me that is causing the bolt to get stuck. If I use my thumb and pull back and down,
it doesn't happen. If I use my index finger to pull back and slightly up, and pull back slowly,
it happens more often then not.

The charging handle is getting stuck into a notch cut into the right side of the receiver. What
is that notch for, and what is the proper way to get the handle out of it?

2: the Samson A team style folder has a stock liner that does not hold the receiver tightly. Luckily I have
a regular factory stock I bought from Midway as an extra and the liner is double lined where the trigger
group goes and the receiver does not move. Not sure if this has anything to do with the bolt getting stuck
but it makes me feel better the receiver is not moving. Is the liner something from Samson or Ruger, where to
get the correct liner?

3: The bolt hold open spring is binding in it's hole. One side of the spring is tight, one loose and it doesn't
slide up and down easily, not sure if the spring is original or not. But my guess is that is should be replaced.

4: I notice the bolt has a lot of lateral play as it moves back and forth, is this normal?

Thanks for you help. should I send it in to Ruger perhaps, or keep trying?

Link Posted: 3/17/2024 9:35:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: raf] [#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tiger222:
Hi Folks,

Got to spend some time looking the rifle over today and found a few things out.

1: It's me that is causing the bolt to get stuck. If I use my thumb and pull back and down,
it doesn't happen. If I use my index finger to pull back and slightly up, and pull back slowly,
it happens more often then not.

The charging handle is getting stuck into a notch cut into the right side of the receiver. What
is that notch for, and what is the proper way to get the handle out of it?

2: the Samson A team style folder has a stock liner that does not hold the receiver tightly. Luckily I have
a regular factory stock I bought from Midway as an extra and the liner is double lined where the trigger
group goes and the receiver does not move. Not sure if this has anything to do with the bolt getting stuck
but it makes me feel better the receiver is not moving. Is the liner something from Samson or Ruger, where to
get the correct liner?

3: The bolt hold open spring is binding in it's hole. One side of the spring is tight, one loose and it doesn't
slide up and down easily, not sure if the spring is original or not. But my guess is that is should be replaced.

4: I notice the bolt has a lot of lateral play as it moves back and forth, is this normal?

Thanks for you help. should I send it in to Ruger perhaps, or keep trying?

View Quote
1) I think it's the disassembly notch.  Read Owner's manual or watch linked videos.
2) Contact Samson; maybe wrong stock reinforcement was sent.  Metal stock liner is located in fore-end of stock.  There are subtle differences between Mini-14 stock reinforcement and the stock reinforcement for the Mini-30.  Ruger will be most reliable source of correct parts, as long as you correctly describe the part you want.  Parts numbers and name/description in Ruger Owner's Manual.
3) Replace spring.
4) Maybe.  Need measurements.

Maybe put rifle back into original stock and see if problems are caused by Samson stock?

Keep us advised.
Link Posted: 3/19/2024 1:02:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: blfuller] [#12]
You need to pull the slide handle straight back to chamber a round.  Do not apply upward pressure to it or the tab on the slide handle will go into the takedown notch on the receiver.  To get the slide handle out of the receiver you need to field strip the rifle per the instruction manual located HERE for your 186 series Mini-14.  This starts on page 23 of the linked manual.
Link Posted: 4/24/2024 6:14:06 PM EDT
[#13]
Hi Folks

Update on my GB, and good news!! I ordered a BHO lever spring from Midway and the new one was about half the length of the one that was in the rifle. The bolt getting stuck is now gone and the last round hold back works too. Problem solved!

Thanks again to all those who chimed in to help. Here she is in a stock I got from Midway (lol. See a pattern) stripped and then hand rubbed linseed oil on it.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/25/2024 8:12:43 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tiger222:
Hi Folks

Update on my GB, and good news!! I ordered a BHO lever spring from Midway and the new one was about half the length of the one that was in the rifle. The bolt getting stuck is now gone and the last round hold back works too. Problem solved!

Thanks again to all those who chimed in to help. Here she is in a stock I got from Midway (lol. See a pattern) stripped and then hand rubbed linseed oil on it.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/61015/6DCA0485-288D-406C-ADB4-505E7DFE4DF2_jpe-3196987.JPG
View Quote
Thank you for reporting back with the solution; some folks don't bother to do so.

All best wishes!  @tiger222
Link Posted: 4/25/2024 11:51:04 AM EDT
[#15]
Glad you got it figured out. Good looking Mini!
Link Posted: 4/25/2024 7:26:21 PM EDT
[#16]
Just an FYI, the handguard on your Mini has a missing "chunk" at the rear of the shield which covers the OP rod.
Link Posted: 4/25/2024 8:44:44 PM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By raf:
Thank you for reporting back with the solution; some folks don't bother to do so.

All best wishes!  @tiger222
View Quote


Thanks!
Originally Posted By FOX_OSCAR_hook:
Glad you got it figured out. Good looking Mini!
View Quote


Thank you!

Originally Posted By Stahlgewehr762:
Just an FYI, the handguard on your Mini has a missing "chunk" at the rear of the shield which covers the OP rod.
View Quote


Oh wow, had no idea, now I see it, will get one ordered.
Thanks again to you all.
Link Posted: 4/26/2024 10:32:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: raf] [#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By tiger222:


Thanks!


Thank you!



Oh wow, had no idea, now I see it, will get one ordered.
Thanks again to you all.
View Quote
It is often wise to "restore" old rifles to OEM condition and replacing the OEM handguard with an identical new (unbroken) one is a good idea.  From pix, your old-style OEM handguard had internal metal heat shield.  Modern replacements omit the internal metal handguard heat shield.  You want the older version, if restoring it to OEM condition is a concern.  The handguard offered by Midway does not have the internal metal heat shield.  I believe the OEM handguard is identical for both Mini-14 and Mini-30.  Please verify this before ordering.  What with all the folks taking off and replacing OEM handguards, it should be possible for you to obtain the "correct" HG with internal heat shield.

However, many Mini users remove the OEM handguard and replace it with a vented Choate  handguard.  In true Arfcom tradition, I suggest you do both.

This link might be of help:  HERE

The only other suggestion I have is to consider replacing the fragile and easily scratched/damaged plastic butt plate with a metal unit seen   HERE

OEM style metal butt plate available from SARCO

Do shop around as you see fit.  Your Mini is "rare" enough to be worth some "extra" care and expense, IMHO.  Just suggestions, and always your call.

@tiger222
Link Posted: 4/27/2024 6:16:13 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By raf:
...From pix, your old-style OEM handguard had internal metal heat shield.  Modern replacements omit the internal metal handguard heat shield.  You want the older version, if restoring it to OEM condition is a concern.  The handguard offered by Midway does not have the internal metal heat shield.  I believe the OEM handguard is identical for both Mini-14 and Mini-30.  Please verify this before ordering.  What with all the folks taking off and replacing OEM handguards, it should be possible for you to obtain the "correct" HG with internal heat shield...

@tiger222
View Quote

Excellent point made about the old vs. new style Mini-14 "plastic" handguards. You might be able to find the correct, heat shield equipped one for your rifle on evilbay. I've seen them on there from time to time for around $40 or so.
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