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Posted: 2/2/2024 11:55:09 PM EDT
Not sure if this is just lack of rifle being fired, tight tolerances or something’s wrong.  

Picked this rifle up from family.   Vz24 receiver.  Rebarrled in 7mm-08. Timney trigger.  Butler creek stock that is bedded.  Built by Marvin Wing in GA.  

The bolt lift and close is very tight.  I have no idea of round count but would venture to say less than 100.   I have called 2 smiths in GA and neither work on Mauser style actions.   I’ve already shot the rifle.  It functions fine.  No problems feeding or extracting.  Primers and cases look good to me as far as pressure signs(factory ammo).

My questions are

1. Anyone know a reputable smith for this action.  

2. Am I worried for no reason, tight is alright?
Link Posted: 2/3/2024 2:40:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Jim Kobe in MN is my go to guy for Mausers.

Before you go "fixing" things, though, I'd figure out why it's tight. Chances are it's just minimal head spacing for a crush fit. Might be worth renting or buying a set of go/no go gauges to save yourself a shipping charge.
Link Posted: 2/3/2024 11:45:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By elmidgeto:
Jim Kobe in MN is my go to guy for Mausers.

Before you go "fixing" things, though, I'd figure out why it's tight. Chances are it's just minimal head spacing for a crush fit. Might be worth renting or buying a set of go/no go gauges to save yourself a shipping charge.
View Quote



Thanks. I’ll look into gauges.
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 4:08:57 AM EDT
[#3]
Is the "tightness" the same whether its loaded vs unloaded?
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 7:51:15 AM EDT
[#4]
I'm assuming this rifle is drilled and tapped for scope mounts?  Just for shits and giggles, remove the bolt and with a flash light, check and see if any of the scope base screws are protruding into the bolt raceway.
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 9:38:39 AM EDT
[#5]
Do you have a piece of fired brass? It's possible that it's an Ackley, which would be 0.001" - 0.002" shorter for normal -08 brass datum so the shoulder can move out and up. Not likely, but the thought occured to me as a possible, correct cause.
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 10:12:18 AM EDT
[#6]
Remove the bolt, raise the firing pin cocking piece enough to slide a toothpick or small pin punch to hold it open against the bolt shroud.  Depending on the bolt safety setup, if present may not have to do anything but set it.  Depress the bolt shroud lock. Unscrew the firing pin assembly to remove it.  

Reinsert the bolt without the firing pin assembly and see how it feels.  

Parts mismatch between sear/aftermarket trigger and cocking piece variations can cause some drag.  

More often than not though, scope mount screws were protruding as previously mentioned.  

You’d probably see/feel if the extractor was dragging.
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 11:08:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WhiskeyBear] [#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jason280:
Is the "tightness" the same whether its loaded vs unloaded?
View Quote



Just tried.   Feels the same with or without shell.


No screws protruding.
Link Posted: 2/4/2024 11:27:28 PM EDT
[#8]
I was thinking today about cycling bolt without firing pin assembly present.   I’ll put that on the todo list this week.   Thanks for all the reply’s so far.  

Since it’s a gun thread…

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Link Posted: 2/5/2024 6:10:38 AM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By WhiskeyBear:
I was thinking today about cycling bolt without firing pin assembly present.   I’ll put that on the todo list this week.   Thanks for all the reply’s so far.  

Since it’s a gun thread…

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/262264/IMG_3865_Medium_jpeg-3118763.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/262264/IMG_3863_Medium_jpeg-3118764.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/262264/IMG_3862_Medium_jpeg-3118765.JPG
View Quote



Dayton safety with a mil-spec cocking piece. That's not a tight bolt on closing, that's the trigger catching and holding back on the cocking piece as you cam the bolt closed. Perfectly normal, but if it bugs you, you can try to find an FN style commercial cocking piece to get rid of it, but you'll need a new safety.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 9:39:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WhiskeyBear] [#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By elmidgeto:



Dayton safety with a mil-spec cocking piece. That's not a tight bolt on closing, that's the trigger catching and holding back on the cocking piece as you cam the bolt closed. Perfectly normal, but if it bugs you, you can try to find an FN style commercial cocking piece to get rid of it, but you'll need a new safety.
View Quote


I can feel the spring tension from the firing pin spring being retracted as I close bolt, but the closure remains tight all the way through closing.   Bolt lift is tight as well, regardless if firing pin cocked or released, or if rifle has been fired or is cycling on empty chamber.  

One of the things I would like to add is a 3 position safety.   Might try to find a commercial cocking piece when the time comes to add safety.    

Whenever I get a load developed I’ll be sure to post target.  Hopefully rifle is a shooter.   7-08 is a great whitetail cartridge from what I hear.  
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 10:19:37 AM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By WhiskeyBear:


I can feel the spring tension from the firing pin spring being retracted as I close bolt, but the closure remains tight all the way through closing.   Bolt lift is tight as well, regardless if firing pin cocked or released, or if rifle has been fired or is cycling on empty chamber.  

One of the things I would like to add is a 3 position safety.   Might try to find a commercial cocking piece when the time comes to add safety.    

Whenever I get a load developed I’ll be sure to post target.  Hopefully rifle is a shooter.   7-08 is a great whitetail cartridge from what I hear.  
View Quote


First Mauser?

Does the bolt closure feel the same with and without a cartridge?

Between the firing pin spring and the shroud lock spring, there's a lot of force pulling back and causing drag between the rear of the bolt lugs and receiver bearing surfaces.

It's a different beast than post-war rifles designed to be made without hand fitting and uber reliability.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 1:03:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WhiskeyBear] [#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By elmidgeto:


First Mauser?

Does the bolt closure feel the same with and without a cartridge?

Between the firing pin spring and the shroud lock spring, there's a lot of force pulling back and causing drag between the rear of the bolt lugs and receiver bearing surfaces.

It's a different beast than post-war rifles designed to be made without hand fitting and uber reliability.
View Quote


It is my first Mauser.  

I tried with and without shell and it feels the same to me.

If it were just the firing pin spring causing drag, wouldn’t the lift force be less after firing or when decocked.   I plan to remove firing pin assembly and cycle this evening.  I also have what I believe is a Spanish Mauser in 7x57 built by same smith that does not have the tight feeling bolt the Vz-24 does.  Same style safety, spring tension felt as bolt is pushed into battery but bolt closure and opening is much lighter if that makes sense.  
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 3:05:29 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By WhiskeyBear:


It is my first Mauser.  

I tried with and without shell and it feels the same to me.

If it were just the firing pin spring causing drag, wouldn’t the lift force be less after firing or when decocked.   I plan to remove firing pin assembly and cycle this evening.  I also have what I believe is a Spanish Mauser in 7x57 built by same smith that does not have the tight feeling bolt the Vz-24 does.  Same style safety, spring tension felt as bolt is pushed into battery but bolt closure and opening is much lighter if that makes sense.  
View Quote


The Mauser 98 is cock on open, after firing you're camming the firing pin spring and cocking piece back. The shroud lock is also pulling the bolt back against the bearing surfaces. Another nifty thing with the 98, the firing pin has a cam that makes with a cam on the inside of the bolt to prevent out of battery firing. It's a lot of metal on metal bearing and spring pressure all together.

The 1893/1895 Spanish Mauser was a cock on close, it didn't have the shroud lock and firing pin spring causing drag on open and close.

Different action designs, though they look similar.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 9:27:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WhiskeyBear] [#14]
I appreciate you taking the time to explain that to me.  I enjoy knowing how the action works.


Worked without firing pin assembly tonight.  Very smooth with all work of cycling gone.   Appreciate everyone taking the time to respond.  @elmidgeto and @shillelagh


2/6: Disassembled bolt, firing pin assembly and shroud tonight.   Cleaned and greased with Rig.  Much better feel when all back together.
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