UPDATE AT BOTTOM

Bear with me on this, I'm not certain if this is possible or even a good idea.

I have a DD Enticer S Ti in raw titanium,  I was looking at their site and noticed their other models are also Ti but have a straw, almost bronze appearance.  My Google-Fu leads me to understand heating it up to around 500 degrees will change the colors (straw, bronze, purple, light then dark blue).  I've not gotten it hot enough to make it change, but if a guy were to grab a propane torch and evenly heat the silencer, could I change the color here at home, or even place it in the oven on self cleaning (@500 degrees).

Doable, not doable, terrible idea you'll shoot your eye out, or 'just grab a can of paint and be done with it'.

Any advice?  I do have a raw mount I could practice on.

UPDATE:
Instead of mag-dump on the can, I have (2) mounts I have decided to experiment on.  Yesterday I took a MAP gas torch, and heated up one of the mounts, for $70 or so I'll take a small gamble.  I have seen pictures of many Ti can that have turned colors, but did not want to do that to mine.

On the mount,  I was constantly moving the torch and it only took about 30 seconds total (or less).  It took about 15 'orbits' around the perimeter and it turned a very light yellow (not very good looking color), a few more orbits and I could see the color start to deepen, then almost immediately it went the bronze color and started to highlight the purple'ish color, that's when I stopped.

I'm (trying) to link some Instagram pix so we'll see.  Worst case if I can't maybe someone can IM me their email and post them for me.



https://www.instagram.com/p/C5vfk_VuhSk/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&img_index=1

Next I'll try anodizing.  Thanks to everyone for their input, I'll bump later on as I don't think too many people are on Sunday AM.

Would not a mag dump heat it to that degree?

Shoot it, get it hot, wipe wd40 on it, profit.

If you want to knock the shine off of it you can soak it for a while in a bucket of oxiclean.

That was one of my thoughts as well (mag-dump).  It also looks pretty simple to anodize with a few 9v batteries, more batteries (volts) different colors.

Personally I wouldn’t take a torch to an NFA item. Titanium is “safe” up to 800 degrees though, so maybe a mag dump or two would do you well, as suggested.

I would just shoot it and see what colors you get.

I've flame anodized a lot of things and the only way the color would stay is if you never heated that item again.

People used to darken titanium tubes with a warm bath of saturated OxyClean.  Might be more even result than flame anodizing if degreased well first. Plugging the can after filling it with water completed might keep it from floating in the oxidative solution and keep solution out of the inside where rinsing is more difficult.

You can use mustard to patina knives, I wonder if it would do anything to titanium

That's a reaction that happens to carbon steel, not titanium.

Doing a bit more research:

Per the internet, Ti starts to change color around 600-700 degrees F, the first color is straw, supposedly blue around 900/1000 degrees.  On the internet it
'looks' like all they are doing is making a few quick passes with a torch over the Ti  tubing (intercooling pipe, very thin) to get it to turn but I'll take the voice of experience (ECCO Machine).  Having said that, based on ECCO and a few others, I will NOT be changing color by flame, maybe I'll do a partial mag dump and see what happens.

However, I do have an extra Ti mount I might try.

The bronze colored DD cans are raw stainless not titanium.  

Could always cerakote yours if you want a solid color.

Hmmm... The More You Know.gif  

Thanks 3wide, I had a small thought in the back of my brain that might be the case but I only knew stainless to be silver in color.  ceracoat is an option, but I think I might just spray bomb it.

I really want one of the raw Velos cans that capital armory has and run it though my 7.5” barrel for about 100-150 rounds.

I have a Rex Silentium MG7 in jail now. I was most likely going to air cure ceracoat it OD or coyote brown. Will have to contact them to see if it voids any kind of warranty.

Titanium is a reactive metal. They probably just anodized it.

Thoroughly clean it, remove surface oxidation, and anodize it in an electrolyte at 12v-15v and you’ll get a gold tone.

If you have done this I'd love to see the results.

I have watched Y Tube videos of people doing this with 9V batteries in series and getting different colors depending upon the number of batteries.  I could try a 12V car battery, and if that's not the right color then try (2) 9V together.  I have a couple raw mounts I might experiment with.

But as another said, the nice deep straw color was one of their SS Cans.

I don't have a titanium can, but wouldn't it naturally change color if run hard or even moderately heated up? Because that would defeat the purpose of anodizing it with looks of the color changes the first time it's run.

I've done a lot of heat anodizing with utensils, knife scales, screws, etc., but those aren't subjected to repeated heatings. So the color will stay until rubbed off over time.

I have anodized Titanium with a bench top DC power supply. 9V batteries will work, but you have no control over the color if you can't fine tune the voltage.

I tried several batches between 10V and 24V, and settled on a nice deep bronze around 18V.

Wink rust remover is phosphoric acid, and will turn shiny Titanium to matte silver instantly.  It will also remove color anno so you can start over.

I have a Titanium watch at home I did with a bronze bracelet and a blue clasp.  I'll post a pic after work.

Deleted and added to the OP

@highorder

So in theory, (2) 9v batteries would get me there (assuming the 9v's are really 9), I can check them.

The mount you heated up looks pretty cool!

I'm on the hunt for 2 titanium mounts just like that.
I'm looking for the lightest and shortest possible.

You can blacken the part if you heat it and then quench in WD40. Submerge the non threaded sections in Wink before the quench and you'll have a flat black finish.

Or just shoot it.

It may work, it may not. The DC power I got from alkaline cells acted differently than the consistent DC power from a benchtop power supply.

Every other variable makes a difference too. Solution temperature, part temperature, which electrolyte you use, etc.

I had best luck with TSP in lukewarm water. Maybe a tablespoon to a quart of water?

I would guess by the time you get down to a direct thread, Ti mount, the weight difference between manufactures is likely measured in grams, the length differences in millimeters.  A Scythe DT mount is flush at the barrel, a Diligent Defense adds about 1/8 due to the wrench flats, the Scythe mount wrench flats are hidden on the inside (blast chamber).

I have DD mounts as I have one of their cans, the mounts seem like a good quality Ti mount and one of the lesser expensive options (and above all available).  ECCO makes some pretty nice, hollowed out SS mounts, not certain if they do Al or Ti. You just have to look around a little and make certain it will fit your cans.

I like short and light, so everything I have is DT.

Hmmm, good to know, I may try that.  The first mount I got from Diligent was a flat, medium dark gray, I reached out and they said it was media blasted, but they don't do that anymore which is why I'm trying a few different things.

Hold on there ian187, you want me to actually shoot my silencer?  Not quite sure I'm ready for all that nonsense...

It's a big step, I know, but you're ready Champ. You've got this.

Definitely shoot it, because I'm interested to see if any color you do actually stays when it heats up. I'm guessing if you heat it up enough, it won't.

I'll do that.  I have one still in the raw, so I'll do a mag on each and see what, if anything, happens.

@highorder

Question: since I don't have a DC power supply, is it possible to connect 2 battery chargers together 12v+6v, or is that both dangerous and stupid.  Secondly, there are smaller units available on amazon for about $17, they are adjustable voltage but the amperage is pretty small at 3amp.  I think they are really made for laptops and such.  Is this a viable solution.  I'm not concerned enough to go and buy a $50+ DC supply for a one time thing.

If nothing else, I can try the the charger or 9v method, spray can, or go and 'choot it.

Start with two 9V batteries in series, warm water, with a tablespoon of TSP dissolved. Take a strip aluminum foil, run it down the side of the bath to the bottom. Connect it to the negative on the battery. Connect the positive on the battery to your can, dip.

You need a vessel deep enough to completely submerged in one shot. If you have to dip it and flip it, there will be a line in the middle of the anodizing.