Anyone using this, or has used this?  I'd love to get into thermal, but I don't want a $6k RH25 sitting in a drawer unused for most of it's life.  If i could as least shoot it during the day at the range, it would seem more reasonable to purchase.

You can use them during the day but if you’re in a hot and dry area everything will kinda be the same color

I'm in GA too

It works, but the contrast on an uncooled thermal won’t be a stark and things may bleed together.  Best bet is a wooded/leafy/temperate backdrop scenery or winter with snow.  Arid/hot/dry isn’t going be easy, but it can be done.  Very high %RH & DP are bad for thermal too.  This is true day or night.  Water is opaque to thermal (which is why foliage is excellent cover) and lots of water in the air is hard on image quality.  You can have low %RH and high DP or high DP and low %RH and the thermal works fine (each would actually be low air water content) but if both are high the image seems washed out.

I zero my thermals in the day all the time. I use the toe/boot  warmers that have the adhesive on one side and just slap it on a target.  They don’t last long with good air exposure in warmer temps - they burn themselves out in like half an hour. In the winter out in the open they shine for like 2 hours. They only last so long in boots and gloves because there’s bad ventilation there.

Now, cryocooled thermal surveillance grade thermal doesn’t care too much. It’ll see contrast in the desert and cut through the mirage while doing it.

I messed with a few thermals in the desert and Texas. Daytime was interesting, but at night it’s amazing. I’ve heard here in GA summers with the humidity stuff gets washed out but haven’t seen it myself.

Works great in the woods when it's cold and rainy. Almost as useful as at night.

You will need the rubber thingy on the eyepiece to limit light.

Bedded down





Up and moving

In direct sunlight yes. In the gloom I run the mount out as far from my eye as I can and you keep your binocular vision and look through the thermal when you want kinda like a hud. Seems one of those new sting ir would be awesome for this since it wouldn't block as much of your vision as larger thermals.

I have an RH25 that i clip on in front of my builds to shoot during the day all the time.  As other have said its not as nice during the day as it is at night, but its pretty good to train with.

The RH25 is amazing.  Scanner, head mounted, clipon.  The resolution is fantastic

Speaking in terms of a "white is hot" setting. For black hot reverse the white black references...

Because the thermal always adjusts its display so the hottest thing is whitest  and the coldest thing is blackest, you will have best luck by viewing in a manner that  omits much hotter or much colder objects that make everything in between too similar to distinguish
Thus you can force the interesting targets to become the most obvious.
You can sometimes include more or less sky or ground to do this. Higher magnification can help, or placing your "target" at the edge of the view to get very hot objects out of the scene. I have used a playing card glued to a stick (hand-held by the stick and first exposed to the air to normalize from body temp) as a shield to decrease the influence of troublesome objects like hot rock walls when I have to stay put and work with what is in the scene no matter what.

My first and cheapest thermal was an EoTech X320. That has a feature that the others should all include. A built in function of the Fairchild chipset. This presents a small + sign at center screen and displays the relative temperature at that tiny spot. For example, when the temp has been 45 degrees day and night for days of rain, and a "white hot" spot appears in the field, I can put the + onto that and see that this white, "hottest" spot is 45.2 degrees of freshly disturbed dirt surrounded by 45 degree undisturbed field. If it says something like 87, the whiteness takes on more interest. Works just as well for cluttered scenes at any temperature.
That is a feature we should demand.