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Posted: 12/11/2023 12:22:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: armoredman]
I've never had a decent fixed blade knife. I have a couple of Benchmade folders that are quite nice, but one was a gift and the other I found. I was tossing around the idea of getting a fixed blade for various tasks like, woods carry, utility, etc., no Rambo specials, no El Cheapo Chinesium, but something that would work for an all around good fixed blade for general and survival/woods walkin' tasks. For instance, I was looking at MidwayUSA at the Cold Steel SRK 6" fixed blade clip point on sale for $109.99, regular (Midway price), $259.99. I am figuring a budget of about $150 or so.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1025870355?pid=192245 Can I find something in that price range that will be durable? BTW, if I am asking dumb questions, sorry, like I said, I really don't know knives well at all, except that my Benchmade Resistor is my favorite pocket knife and has helped me for MANY years. Thank you for your replies. |
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Thinking Benchmade makes some fix blades...may ck em out.
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ESEE 3,4,5,6, Izula, Izula II
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If you like your Benchmades see if they make a corresponding fixed blade. I have some older benchmade fixed blades.
The ESEEs are hard to beat. I have several of those as well. I don’t know if Scrapyard knives are still around (and what their price point is these days) but I have a couple of those that are my absolute favorites. (Looks like Scrapyard is still around, but they have no inventory for sale. That means they are likely pricy collector knives at this point. Sorry for the asinine suggestion.) |
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It is always a silly thing to give advice, but to give good advice is absolutely fatal. - Oscar Wilde
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Veteran of the Third Battle of Tannhauser Gate.
ID, USA
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Fixed blade? Ka-Bar. I've had one for 35 years.
Learn to sharpen it, and keep it sharp, it'll serve your grandchildren. |
"The Creator may be seen in all the works of his hands, but none so clearly in the wise economy of the honey bee."
Ungracefully surrendering the things of youth... |
Ontario RAT 3 or 5
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SRK-C, smaller version of the SRK, about $35 on Amazon/Midway etc. For $150 get the SRK SV3 or Sna Mai version.
Better yet, spend $250 and have Doubleplusgood make one for you. |
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I'm not Retired, I'm a Professional Grandpa!
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ESEE 3, 4, Izula2 are all great. It is actually something ARF actually agrees on....well, for the most part....
I've been using a Gerber Strongarm for the past couple of years, and I really like it. I love how it feels in the hand, and I like the multiple mounting options that comes with it. You should check those out. ESEE is mentioned in every single fixed blade thread by multiple people. They won't break the bank and there are multiple colors and grips available. You can't go wrong with a Kabar either, they have more than proven themselves over the years. |
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"When I pass away, I hope my wife sells my stuff for what it's worth, and not what I told her I paid for it !!"
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It does not matter. Select a knife based on comfort and aesthetics. If weapons maintenance isn't your thing, get stainless.
Everything else based on your skills. |
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I've found myself chasing after knife steel I like. SV90 is my favorite steel for edge retention and corrosion resistance and M4 is my favorite non stainless.
For Everyday carry, I have my Benchmade 940 Osborne in SV90 For camping I usually have my Benchmade Flyway in SV90 which is great for small stuff and food prep, and a 6" hunting style knife in M4 made by Fimbulvetr Knifeworks. @kuraki |
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I survived the cockpocalypse of 11/21/2012.
Bacon grease, the Muslim approved .mil lubricant. |
Pretty happy with my. Chris Reeves Pacific
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Benefactor NRA Member
Team Ranstad TIBTLS |
Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms: Fixed blade? Ka-Bar. I've had one for 35 years. Learn to sharpen it, and keep it sharp, it'll serve your grandchildren. View Quote This is the way. And they just had a heck of a sale on 'em for cyber Monday, half price, total no-brainer, had to get another one. Buck also makes good blades. Older Ontarios especially in 5160 are nice. |
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Weird dupe post
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Dupe post
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Originally Posted By 10mmillie: ESEE 3,4,5,6, Izula, Izula II View Quote 1095 is garbage. I cant believe people still tout a junk steel knife in a nlade thickness that’s only good as a prybar still. Are you cutting shit or “batoning” firewood? If you’re batoning then get a froe, not a knife. Froes are made for splitting wood…. 1095 is a compromise steel meant for those who either A ) aren’t very good at sharpening steel or B) are so far off the in the jungle they are forced to have to sharpen their knife on a rock… |
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The SRK is a decent field knife. I would suggest getting one in 3V steel.
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I recently nabbed a Cold Steel AK-47 Field Knife and am liking it a lot. 3V, Full and substantial tang, G10 scales, the handle locks the hand in really well. I don't pry or baton with knives, but I'd definitely feel I'm not going to break it if I had to use it for that reason.
SRK would be solid enough, lighter than the Field Knife, but has a tapered tang that's fully encased in the rubber like grip and won't handle prying and the like as well. |
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Originally Posted By tsg68:
1095 is garbage. I cant believe people still tout a junk steel knife in a nlade thickness that’s only good as a prybar still. Are you cutting shit or “batoning” firewood? If you’re batoning then get a froe, not a knife. Froes are made for splitting wood…. 1095 is a compromise steel meant for those who either A ) aren’t very good at sharpening steel or B) are so far off the in the jungle they are forced to have to sharpen their knife on a rock… View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Merlin:
SRK-C, smaller version of the SRK, about $35 on Amazon/Midway etc. For $150 get the SRK SV3 or Sna Mai version. Better yet, spend $250 and have Doubleplusgood make one for you. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By acegunner:
ESEE 3, 4, Izula2 are all great. It is actually something ARF actually agrees on....well, for the most part.... I've been using a Gerber Strongarm for the past couple of years, and I really like it. I love how it feels in the hand, and I like the multiple mounting options that comes with it. You should check those out. ESEE is mentioned in every single fixed blade thread by multiple people. They won't break the bank and there are multiple colors and grips available. You can't go wrong with a Kabar either, they have more than proven themselves over the years. View Quote Honestly - I'd feel odd with a K-BAR, was never a Marine, just another rustpicking swabbie. |
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All good suggestions, here's another.
https://knifeworks.com/tops-brostan-b-o-b-fieldcraft-4-75-1095-plain-blade-green-canvas-micarta-handle-kydex-sheath/ I was on the verge of getting an ESEE 4, and decided to check this out. Felt better in the hand and was a bit more stout. Doesn't have the famous ESEE warranty, but I can't imagine a task where something this stout would possibly break. |
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Originally Posted By tsg68: 1095 is garbage. I cant believe people still tout a junk steel knife in a nlade thickness that’s only good as a prybar still. Are you cutting shit or “batoning” firewood? If you’re batoning then get a froe, not a knife. Froes are made for splitting wood…. 1095 is a compromise steel meant for those who either A ) aren’t very good at sharpening steel or B) are so far off the in the jungle they are forced to have to sharpen their knife on a rock… View Quote This sounds more like knife snobbery than a knife user. Is 1095 dated? Sure. With good heat treatment from a reputable maker (ESEE, TOPS…), they’re far from garbage and quite useable and functional. There are better steels out there, but for the price point, you’re getting a quality blade for actual use. 99.9% of knife users aren’t going to notice much difference between 420HC, AUS8, or 1095 and upper tier steels like Elmax, Magnacut, M390, CPM 3V, S35VN, S90V, S11V, etc., when in the field short term. As long as the knife is made from a reputable company/maker, has ergonomics that fit you, a blade profile that meets your requirements, and a good sheath system, the steel is really not that important as long as you can sharpen a knife and do basic, routine maintenance as you would with most field equipment. Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 |
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"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants" - Thomas Jefferson
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Dont call it a comeback, Been here for years.
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: [snip] Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ROCK6: Originally Posted By tsg68: 1095 is garbage. I cant believe people still tout a junk steel knife in a nlade thickness that's only good as a prybar still. Are you cutting shit or "batoning" firewood? If you're batoning then get a froe, not a knife. Froes are made for splitting wood . 1095 is a compromise steel meant for those who either A ) aren't very good at sharpening steel or B) are so far off the in the jungle they are forced to have to sharpen their knife on a rock Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 E. G.: Randall Mades Knives. O-1 Steel at Unobtanium prices. |
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I'm not Retired, I'm a Professional Grandpa!
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: This sounds more like knife snobbery than a knife user. Is 1095 dated? Sure. With good heat treatment from a reputable maker (ESEE, TOPS…), they’re far from garbage and quite useable and functional. There are better steels out there, but for the price point, you’re getting a quality blade for actual use. 99.9% of knife users aren’t going to notice much difference between 420HC, AUS8, or 1095 and upper tier steels like Elmax, Magnacut, M390, CPM 3V, S35VN, S90V, S11V, etc., when in the field short term. As long as the knife is made from a reputable company/maker, has ergonomics that fit you, a blade profile that meets your requirements, and a good sheath system, the steel is really not that important as long as you can sharpen a knife and do basic, routine maintenance as you would with most field equipment. Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 View Quote Excellent post, my 1095 blades serve me quite well. As they do the millions and millions of people who own and use them. |
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Originally Posted By armoredman: I've never had a decent fixed blade knife. I have a couple of Benchmade folders that are quite nice, but one was a gift and the other I found. I was tossing around the idea of getting a fixed blade for various tasks like, woods carry, utility, etc., no Rambo specials, no El Cheapo Chinesium, but something that would work for an all around good fixed blade for general and survival/woods walkin' tasks. For instance, I was looking at MidwayUSA at the Cold Steel SRK 6" fixed blade clip point on sale for $109.99, regular (Midway price), $259.99. I am figuring a budget of about $150 or so. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1025870355?pid=192245 Can I find something in that price range that will be durable? BTW, if I am asking dumb questions, sorry, like I said, I really don't know knives well at all, except that my Benchmade Resistor is my favorite pocket knife and has helped me for MANY years. Thank you for your replies. View Quote The SRK is a fine choice , --- buuuuut -- i was under the impression they were 40-50 bucks . I'd get one , and a couple of the $20 Bushman knives as well |
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Originally Posted By streetstar: The SRK is a fine choice , --- buuuuut -- i was under the impression they were 40-50 bucks . I'd get one , and a couple of the $20 Bushman knives as well View Quote Yes, the non 3V blades are $45 at Midway, blade steel is SK5 High carbon, no idea how good THAT steel is, either.. The 3V blades are over double in price. |
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Well, I decided to dip my toeinbefore I jump in al the way, and ordered this one.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022536882?pid=309353 We'll see how this one goes - if I like it and use it, I will probably get something nicer next time. If it just sits on kit and rarely gets used, well, I didn't waste as much. Thank you for all the positive comments! |
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: This sounds more like knife snobbery than a knife user. Is 1095 dated? Sure. With good heat treatment from a reputable maker (ESEE, TOPS…), they’re far from garbage and quite useable and functional. There are better steels out there, but for the price point, you’re getting a quality blade for actual use. 99.9% of knife users aren’t going to notice much difference between 420HC, AUS8, or 1095 and upper tier steels like Elmax, Magnacut, M390, CPM 3V, S35VN, S90V, S11V, etc., when in the field short term. As long as the knife is made from a reputable company/maker, has ergonomics that fit you, a blade profile that meets your requirements, and a good sheath system, the steel is really not that important as long as you can sharpen a knife and do basic, routine maintenance as you would with most field equipment. Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ROCK6: Originally Posted By tsg68: 1095 is garbage. I cant believe people still tout a junk steel knife in a nlade thickness that’s only good as a prybar still. Are you cutting shit or “batoning” firewood? If you’re batoning then get a froe, not a knife. Froes are made for splitting wood…. 1095 is a compromise steel meant for those who either A ) aren’t very good at sharpening steel or B) are so far off the in the jungle they are forced to have to sharpen their knife on a rock… This sounds more like knife snobbery than a knife user. Is 1095 dated? Sure. With good heat treatment from a reputable maker (ESEE, TOPS…), they’re far from garbage and quite useable and functional. There are better steels out there, but for the price point, you’re getting a quality blade for actual use. 99.9% of knife users aren’t going to notice much difference between 420HC, AUS8, or 1095 and upper tier steels like Elmax, Magnacut, M390, CPM 3V, S35VN, S90V, S11V, etc., when in the field short term. As long as the knife is made from a reputable company/maker, has ergonomics that fit you, a blade profile that meets your requirements, and a good sheath system, the steel is really not that important as long as you can sharpen a knife and do basic, routine maintenance as you would with most field equipment. Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 Thanks for typing out almost verbatim what I was about to say. |
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Look OP, just glean all the info from you can pro or con from all sources to suit your budget and needs for end use that you are satisfied with.
Same can be said for just about any other material object in this world. Guns, knives, vehicles, houses, market forces, etc. ETA- I own various blades, from safe queens to users, some low end ones get used and abused, as well as some of my high end knives. Some I have multiples of for collecting and some to use whether cheap or expensive. As far as what is the best, is too subjective. As always, YMMV. |
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Originally Posted By Merlin: E. G.: Randall Mades Knives. O-1 Steel at Unobtanium prices. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Merlin: E. G.: Randall Mades Knives. O-1 Steel at Unobtanium prices. Exception is if you want a high-value brand name. Originally Posted By charliedontsurf: Thanks for typing out almost verbatim what I was about to say. Yeah, I didn't want to come off as an asshole, I do have, appreciate, and use high-end knives, but not everyone is going to buy a $200+belt knife when something in the $50-range can pretty much do the same thing just with a few metallurgic property differences. I know and can appreciate a Wilson Combat or Nighthawk 1911, but when someone is asking for a serviceable self-defense gun for around $500-600, I would probably point them to something in the Glock range. Knife steel metallurgy is continuing to improve in various aspects and the more you use knives you’ll start to distinguish some of those features. I have a couple custom combat/field knives from Ed Martin Knives, and I’ve found his CPM S35VN is one of my favorites for field use. Easy to sharpen (convex edge), holds an edge very well, good lateral strength, and moderately “stainless”. I know there are few “superior” steels even to that, but it’s about what you use and how much you use it to where you can get comfortable even if it’s O1 carbon steel or some cheap AUS8 steel. ROCK6 |
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"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants" - Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By armoredman: Well, I decided to dip my toeinbefore I jump in al the way, and ordered this one. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022536882?pid=309353 We'll see how this one goes - if I like it and use it, I will probably get something nicer next time. If it just sits on kit and rarely gets used, well, I didn't waste as much. Thank you for all the positive comments! View Quote |
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I'm not Retired, I'm a Professional Grandpa!
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: Exception is if you want a high-value brand name. Yeah, I didn't want to come off as an asshole, I do have, appreciate, and use high-end knives, but not everyone is going to buy a $200+belt knife when something in the $50-range can pretty much do the same thing just with a few metallurgic property differences. I know and can appreciate a Wilson Combat or Nighthawk 1911, but when someone is asking for a serviceable self-defense gun for around $500-600, I would probably point them to something in the Glock range. Knife steel metallurgy is continuing to improve in various aspects and the more you use knives you'll start to distinguish some of those features. I have a couple custom combat/field knives from Ed Martin Knives, and I've found his CPM S35VN is one of my favorites for field use. Easy to sharpen (convex edge), holds an edge very well, good lateral strength, and moderately "stainless". I know there are few "superior" steels even to that, but it's about what you use and how much you use it to where you can get comfortable even if it's O1 carbon steel or some cheap AUS8 steel. ROCK6 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ROCK6: Originally Posted By Merlin: E. G.: Randall Mades Knives. O-1 Steel at Unobtanium prices. Exception is if you want a high-value brand name. Originally Posted By charliedontsurf: Thanks for typing out almost verbatim what I was about to say. Yeah, I didn't want to come off as an asshole, I do have, appreciate, and use high-end knives, but not everyone is going to buy a $200+belt knife when something in the $50-range can pretty much do the same thing just with a few metallurgic property differences. I know and can appreciate a Wilson Combat or Nighthawk 1911, but when someone is asking for a serviceable self-defense gun for around $500-600, I would probably point them to something in the Glock range. Knife steel metallurgy is continuing to improve in various aspects and the more you use knives you'll start to distinguish some of those features. I have a couple custom combat/field knives from Ed Martin Knives, and I've found his CPM S35VN is one of my favorites for field use. Easy to sharpen (convex edge), holds an edge very well, good lateral strength, and moderately "stainless". I know there are few "superior" steels even to that, but it's about what you use and how much you use it to where you can get comfortable even if it's O1 carbon steel or some cheap AUS8 steel. ROCK6 If I want another high end steel knife, I'm hitting up Doubleplusgood. I'd take one of his rejects before I'd buy another RMK. |
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I'm not Retired, I'm a Professional Grandpa!
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Originally Posted By Merlin: Arfcom, owned by Brownells, will not allow a usable MidwayUSA link. Just post the product number so we can open Midway in another window or tab and search on the item. View Quote Weird, I click on it and it goes right to the linked page. As you requested; Cold Steel SRK Compact Fixed Blade Knife 5" Clip Point SK-5 High Carbon Black Blade Kray-Ex Handle Black Product #: 309353 |
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Did not know Cold Steel made an SRK in 3V, if it were me, I would have spent the extra money and gotten that over the SK5 blade.
Had an SRK in Carbon V way back in the day, one of my favorite knives ever, good solid all-around blade. |
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Well, it was me, and I decided to go with the cheaper steel that still had a good solid reputation when I looked it up online. As I said, if I like the handiness of a fixed blade as opposed to my folders, I might just go back and buy something more expensive and longer lasting. Appreciate everyone's support here, thank you!
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Originally Posted By armoredman: Well, it was me, and I decided to go with the cheaper steel that still had a good solid reputation when I looked it up online. As I said, if I like the handiness of a fixed blade as opposed to my folders, I might just go back and buy something more expensive and longer lasting. Appreciate everyone's support here, thank you! View Quote Oh i'm not knocklng your choice man, I have a CS bowie machete in SK5 for some 15 years now, absolutely the finest machete i've ever owned and it takes a razor edge and holds up even while chopping small logs, they've got the SK5 dialed in IMO. And I have a couple of their drop-forged blades in 52100 and they are very nice and affordable too, one of the vice-presidents actually complimented me online for a small mod I did to a Hunter model. But on reflection i'd probably wait for some results on their 3V, it's only recently that folks have figured out the proper heat-treat for 3V, Nathan Carrothers of CPK led that charge and others have followed, but time will tell if the others got it right. All mine are Bucks because I know they got it right. But man is it ever epic steel, top of the chart for toughness. My Buck 119 in 3V is my new field work-horse, you can just beat the crap out of that blade and it laughs at you and asks "is that all you got?" |
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Originally Posted By armoredman: Well, it was me, and I decided to go with the cheaper steel that still had a good solid reputation when I looked it up online. As I said, if I like the handiness of a fixed blade as opposed to my folders, I might just go back and buy something more expensive and longer lasting. Appreciate everyone's support here, thank you! View Quote You've selected a perfectly functional knife. |
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: This sounds more like knife snobbery than a knife user. Is 1095 dated? Sure. With good heat treatment from a reputable maker (ESEE, TOPS…), they’re far from garbage and quite useable and functional. There are better steels out there, but for the price point, you’re getting a quality blade for actual use. 99.9% of knife users aren’t going to notice much difference between 420HC, AUS8, or 1095 and upper tier steels like Elmax, Magnacut, M390, CPM 3V, S35VN, S90V, S11V, etc., when in the field short term. As long as the knife is made from a reputable company/maker, has ergonomics that fit you, a blade profile that meets your requirements, and a good sheath system, the steel is really not that important as long as you can sharpen a knife and do basic, routine maintenance as you would with most field equipment. Now, a fair point is that I wouldn't be paying $200+ for a custom or small production knife with 1095 or any number of low to mid-tier steels. You can get better steel, but it's going to cost you more, you just have to determine if you're actually getting $100+ worth of better performance. ROCK6 View Quote More from use than snobbery, average rockwell scale 1095 is gonna be 56-58 which is edge rolling territory with any kind of decent sharpening. It lacks enough manganese to have any real toughness and even cheaper stainless like 440C is more abrasion resistant with it’s chromium content. It’s easy to sharpen because it’s soft. I have uet to be impressed with any 1095 knives I’ve owned. Part of the reason they seem to make thicker blades with 1095 is to compensate for the lack of sectional durability. I don’t like thicker blades with shallow grinds because it increases drag and affects their performance as slicing instruments which is their overall task. If I remember correctly from their early writings the Randall Adventure crew valued field expedient sharpening for their knives over edge retention and it was part of the criteria they used for their collaborations. They seemed to care more about whether you could sharpen the knife without a sharpening stone over how durable was the sharpened edge. The absolute worst of the 1095 blades I’ve used are the USGI issue blades. Pretty much barely representing edged implements. You can bend and snap many of them with your bare hands and the edge retention is awful. It’s kinda sad if this is alot of people’s first exposure to a fixed blade of any size. |
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Originally Posted By armoredman: Weird, I click on it and it goes right to the linked page. As you requested; Cold Steel SRK Compact Fixed Blade Knife 5" Clip Point SK-5 High Carbon Black Blade Kray-Ex Handle Black Product #: 309353 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By armoredman: Originally Posted By Merlin: Arfcom, owned by Brownells, will not allow a usable MidwayUSA link. Just post the product number so we can open Midway in another window or tab and search on the item. Weird, I click on it and it goes right to the linked page. As you requested; Cold Steel SRK Compact Fixed Blade Knife 5" Clip Point SK-5 High Carbon Black Blade Kray-Ex Handle Black Product #: 309353 The SRK-C at Amazon is $9 cheaper, but you run the risk of it being a fake - as some have reported over on Bladeforums. Midway is good people, I like ordering from them. Anyone know how to fix the vglink.redirect shit? PM me if so. |
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I'm not Retired, I'm a Professional Grandpa!
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The compact: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1022536882?pid=309353
Fullsize: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019033160?pid=204469 Fullsize with blaze orange handles, on sale for 34.99, smokin' deal that: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1025878022/?pid=761161 |
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Originally Posted By tsg68: More from use than snobbery, average rockwell scale 1095 is gonna be 56-58 which is edge rolling territory with any kind of decent sharpening. It lacks enough manganese to have any real toughness and even cheaper stainless like 440C is more abrasion resistant with it’s chromium content. It’s easy to sharpen because it’s soft. I have uet to be impressed with any 1095 knives I’ve owned. Part of the reason they seem to make thicker blades with 1095 is to compensate for the lack of sectional durability. I don’t like thicker blades with shallow grinds because it increases drag and affects their performance as slicing instruments which is their overall task. If I remember correctly from their early writings the Randall Adventure crew valued field expedient sharpening for their knives over edge retention and it was part of the criteria they used for their collaborations. They seemed to care more about whether you could sharpen the knife without a sharpening stone over how durable was the sharpened edge. The absolute worst of the 1095 blades I’ve used are the USGI issue blades. Pretty much barely representing edged implements. You can bend and snap many of them with your bare hands and the edge retention is awful. It’s kinda sad if this is alot of people’s first exposure to a fixed blade of any size. View Quote You sound pretty knowledgeable and experienced man, so I shouldn't have to mention that edge geometry tailored to the type of knife, a given steel, and it's intended use makes all the difference in the world. I don't use my 1095 bades for heavy chopping or batoning, I have blades built for that if I wanted to do so. My thick 1095 blades are camping/hunting blades, I give them all a nice long appleseed edge that is not great for chopping, but excellent for slicing and gives maximum edge support if I do need to chop for some reason, easy to do even for a guy like me who's not super skilled at sharpening. They work great in the field and do a good job at holding a good working edge. And they're very affordable for a lifelong blue-collar guy like me who loves to be in the woods, most of them are older Ontarios that I paid 45-50 bucks for 'em. |
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Originally Posted By tsg68: More from use than snobbery, average rockwell scale 1095 is gonna be 56-58 which is edge rolling territory with any kind of decent sharpening. It lacks enough manganese to have any real toughness and even cheaper stainless like 440C is more abrasion resistant with it’s chromium content. It’s easy to sharpen because it’s soft. I have uet to be impressed with any 1095 knives I’ve owned. Part of the reason they seem to make thicker blades with 1095 is to compensate for the lack of sectional durability. I don’t like thicker blades with shallow grinds because it increases drag and affects their performance as slicing instruments which is their overall task. View Quote That's a fair point. My only defense of 1095 as a steel is that it's cheap and quality heat-treatment is pretty easy to maximize it's performance. A few makers do it well, ESEE, Becker, TOPS, etc. However, I agree with you, most makers focus on the blade geometry of a chopper steel than a slicing steel, which is also why most are made with thicker steel. That said, I like thinner blades as well and there are better steels, but for the average user on a budget and who's capable and willing to do more sharpening in the field, 1095 has its place in the knife world. ROCK6 |
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"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants" - Thomas Jefferson
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"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants" - Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By ROCK6: That's a fair point. My only defense of 1095 as a steel is that it's cheap and quality heat-treatment is pretty easy to maximize it's performance. A few makers do it well, ESEE, Becker, TOPS, etc. However, I agree with you, most makers focus on the blade geometry of a chopper steel than a slicing steel, which is also why most are made with thicker steel. That said, I like thinner blades as well and there are better steels, but for the average user on a budget and who's capable and willing to do more sharpening in the field, 1095 has its place in the knife world. ROCK6 View Quote Your point is quite valid too. I prefer a better steel, a quality sharpener and a good blade geometry. If I need a riving instrument, I’d rather have a dedicated one. That said, most of the third world seems to do quite well with a cheap machete and an axe. |
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Hmm, axe...I am mostly Norwegian...mmmm, bearded axe...
In any case, the new knife will be delivered tonight, two full days early by UPS, during Christmas, quite impressed. There's a little something waiting out there for the UPS guy, too. |
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