School me on the M2 Carbine please.

I have a friend who has an 07/02 FFL-SOT. He has a post-sample M2 Carbine that I have shot and really enjoyed.  I have investigated prices and a transferable M2 still seems to be reasonably affordable (as far as MGs go).  If I end up deciding to buy one, it will not be my first MG.  I have a couple of MACs and a Burgess-Stemple S&W76 clone.  Between my guns and collection of uppers I can shoot 9mm, .380, .45 ACP, and 5.56.  I have a lot of bases covered there but I want to branch out to something other than an open bolt SMG.  I know the obvious answer is always M16, but I don’t want to spend M16 money, and I really like the character of the M2.

So, what do I need to know?  It seems like a transferable trigger pack would be the most sensible option so it could be moved between carbines.  Is that something reasonable to look for?  Are there different registered parts (receiver, trigger pack, something else) that I should avoid?  In a perfect world I would like to get a gun with the transferrable part not married to the gun it is in so I could say, put it in a new Fulton Armory carbine, and burn that up instead of an original GI gun.  Is that feasible?

Basically, I don’t know what I don’t know.  So, help me out with what I need to know.  Right now, all I know is I have always liked the M1 Carbine and I really enjoy shooting the M2 on full-auto.

Thanks!

They can be great and they can sometimes be difficult to run 100% reliably - most I've seen run "well "but not 100% but enough to make most occasional shooters happy.

The Registered part can vary as there was no official means to assign - Some used trip lever, some used trigger housing.  Trigger housing seems to be preferred as it is the most durable can be switched to another "host" gun if one wears out the original host gun barrel etc.

There are M2 marked receivers, by commercial and military - You can find all sorts of pre-86 registered and transferable military and commercial gun conversions using the M2 parts and this makes  it more of a crap shoot as to who assembled the parts package and how well they work together.  Generally commercial guns are not as popular and claimed to be not as good as military guns - makes sense as tolerances and specs would/could  be less than military especially as surplus parts to make guns like Universal and Plainfield dried up and they made their own.

Generally with good parts like a military gun donor host with upgraded parts that fit well, replaced springs and good registered part - should be good.
If your buying sight unseen ask for video of a few mags run through it.  If not - well just expect to go through some parts or maybe you will get lucky and it will be a gently used or already upgraded gun. Bolt, springs (all including mag) carrier, mags, and even then expect possibly tinker adjusting some.
I have seen a few - mostly Post-dealers guns - and they run reasonably well - but not like AR15 reliable -I'd say in 5 or so guns I've seen all of them jam - at least once at a shoot but not a show stopper for the guys that own them.  Its a fun gun and seems like they are popular with many shooters that try it just like the semi version.

Seems like mags are a weakness but seen some cheaper ones like Keep shooting brand run good and make sure to upgrade mag springs and if you run 30 round- make sure to upgrade to an M2 mag catch to hold 30 rd mags better.



The guns don't seem to be ammo selective as the loads seem consistent from everyone that offered them.  But s

I have an M2 carbine machinegun.  My personal M2 is a WW2 USGI (Quality Hardware) M1 registered receiver.  While I am  RKI I wouldn't profess to be an M1/M2 expert by any means.

In my mind there are essentially "5" types of M2s out there including the registered part option.

- Factory WW2/USGI manufactured and marked "M2" guns from Winchester and Inland.

- Factory WW2/USGI M1 guns that were reported to be factory made Inland and Winchester as M2s but just not marked as such.

- Factory WW2/USGI M1s that were converted to M2s via drop in parts after the fact.

- Commercial made M1s converted to M2s

- Registered M2 conversion part(s).  The most common registered part seems to be the M2 disconnector lever.  Although I have seen registered M2 hammers and trigger frame bodies as well.  Can't say I have ever seen a sear, selector, or any spring as the registered part over the years.

For me the sweet spot in price was a WW2 USGI receiver that had been converted and registered as an M2.   I didn't want to pay the "factory" M2 marked Carbine up-charge, the commercial guns don't have the best reputation, and the registered part option which was most commonly the disconnector seemed fragile to me and were almost as expensive as the factory M2 guns.  Ultimately I figured how often am I really going to move a registered disco from one gun to another....probably never.... so why pay more for what appears to be a more fragile part that I am never going to move to another gun.  

However for you it sounds like you want to put a registered part in a new Fulton Armory production gun so maybe that makes more sense for you vs. what I wanted.  The registered M2 trigger frames are considered the most "desirable" registered part due to durability but there is some argument if a M2 trigger frame should really be a registered machinegun conversion part.  Personally I think its fine as while its legal to have an M2 trigger frame on an M1 its still an M2 specific part even if its not considered one of the "7" M2 restricted parts.

As mentioned above mags are one of the things that need to be taken seriously.  I originally bought aftermarket mags (Korean I believe) that were reported to be good to go but in reality were marginal.  I ultimately sucked it up and bought a bunch of USGI WW2 20rd mags and a handful of the USGI 30rd SEY "hardback" mags (which are like ~$100+ each) and my gun has run like a champ ever since.  My advice is to just be patient while your F4 is in transfer and cherry pick the best USGI mags from gunbroker, etc. as you can find them.   (You can always take solace in the fact it could always be worse and you bought a Reising with $300 factory magazines)

Also find a type of ammo you gun likes and when it available for a reasonable price buy a shit-ton of it.  There was a period of time recently where there was close to zero 30 Carbine for sale at almost any price short of gunbroker gougers at $2+ per round.  Even today 30 carbine isn't cheap as it starts at around 80cpr with shipping/tax to your door and quickly goes up from there.  Buy a couple boxes of few different types of ammo, find the ones your gun likes  best, and then buy however many cases you think you will need for years and just cache it away.

If  you do end up going the USGI/WW2 M1 converted route keep in mind there are two types of "M1" receivers.  The ones with a recoil spring tube and others with the recoil spring tube as part of the receiver.  Theoretically the spring tube receivers are not as strong and were never meant to be full auto M2s, but I have never heard of a spring tube receiver failing but I guess its possible.  As an FYI, my personal Quality Hardware M2 is a spring tube gun and I have never seen any issues.

My personal take is they are not the best shooters in the world, especially for the somewhat anemic "rifle" round they shoot but you have that experience with your buddies postie so you know what you are in store for.  Ironically I probably shoot mine more in semi-auto than full auto. The USGI guns are a cool piece of history and I shoot mine maybe once a year-ish (a couple hundred rounds) for something different or bring it out for somebody who has to shoot an M2 carbine.

Good lock with whatever you decide.

Get an M16 RR.


RCA

Most everyone would agree - The M16 and conversions that are transferable start  >$25K and most people can't push that amount of liquid cash.  Even $10k for an intro MG isn't that common on the American budget these days.  For $10-$15K with an M2 someone gets a typically handy short rifle that isn't a sub-gun.

Although if your income is solvent and have cash on hand to pay daily bills and emergencies the larger investment isn't lost - its just changed forms.  Not so easy to pay the bills with an M16 i(legally anyway f you need cash in a hurry.  You can own it for years and get the money back)

If you did come across a registered commercial receiver with mil-spec dimensions - Plainfield, early Universal, etc - how bad could it be?  Takes GI parts, bolts, bbls, furniture - you could have an all GI M2 other than the receiver.

I wouldn't disagree with you but a M16 RR is probably going to be 1.5 to  2X the cost of an M2 Carbine even on the low end of things.   I think you can still pick up a nice USGI M1 converted M2 for under $15K in todays market vs. probably $26ish on the low end for the M16.

Given the OPs collection to date of MACs and a Stemple which are going to have a more "utilitarian" look and feel to them, he may want to add a machinegun that has some classic lines and walnut to the mix.

One of the i alternate suggestions I was going to put into my initial post was the AC556 but deleted it before posting as the OP already has a 5.56 MAC upper and seemed really focused on the M2.  

I know a lot of folks are not super keen on the AC and pricing reflects that.  I have an AC and IMHO its really not a bad gun.  Obviously it has its limitations and if you are looking for another EBR style machinegun an AC isn't really going to aesthetically scratch that itch.   Neither the AC nor the M2 carbine are going to be the smooth or reconfigurable/caliber flexible shooter than an M16 is either.  However, the ACs do have that nice blued (or stainless) and wood stock feel that a lot of more modern machineguns lack.

One of the AC advantage in my mind over the M2 carbine is they shoot 5.56 vs. 30 carbine and 5.56 is like half the cost at 43cpr vs. 80cpr.   The M2 is essentially shooting an enhanced pistol cartridge at 7.62x51 ammo costs.  A fixed stock AC is also probably right on pricing parity of the M2 carbine as well.

For me I don't think the value play and risk is worth the cost savings.

For say $14Kish you could get a USGI M1 converted to an M2.  I would put the commercial guns at $11 to 12Kish.  Lets say the swing difference is cost is $3Kish between a commercial M1 to M2 and a USGI M1 to M2.  

You then maybe need to swap the guts (assuming the owner is capable and doesnt need a gunsmith to do it) for $500+ and then hope there isn't something else wrong after spending $10K+ and waiting a year for a F4 transfer.

There is also the forged vs. cast receivers.  While all USGI WW2 receivers (to the best of my knowledge) are forged and machined, most of the pre-86 commercial manufacturer guns used a cast receiver.  I like the comfort of a forged receiver when its the registered part, not only for durability but also for easier welding repair if something did go wrong.

There is also the cool aspect of owning a true piece of WW2 manufacturing history as well.

I can see why folks go for a West Hurley Thompson at $20K vs. a WW2 Thompson at $35K but for the M2 the price difference is so small it doesnt make sense to me.

Just my 2 cents anyway but others may look at it differently

I see that.  Having been to a carbine collector's shop where he swapped all my Inland parts over to an IBM receiver, carbines are as easy to build as ARs.  If I'd known that 20 years ago I'd be knee deep in carbines now.

I dont diagree that carbines are pretty easy to work on with and comparable to the M16 platform with the exception of the barrel.  If there is a chamber, headspace, or just crap accuracy issues most folks are not swapping a cabine barrel out at home.

I dont know enough about commercial carbines to say if they are all USGI part compatible either.  They may "theoretically" take mil spec parts until you actually try to install them and find parts may have to be slightly modded to fit/ work.  Similar to old non colt M16s where they should take all mil spec parts until you find out a mil spec upper, sear, or certain mags dont fit, etc.

There is also the factor that no matter how simple the platform is some folks are just not mechanically inclinded in the least.  I have good friends who bring their shotguns into a gunsmith to be cleaned as they dont know who to even field strip them to clean them.  They bring ARs over to me to swap/install a new trigger or handguard. Asking them to rebuild an M2 might as well be asking them to design a rocket for travel to the moon

Thanks for the information folks, great stuff posted here.

I don’t disagree that the M16 is the most flexible MG available anywhere close to the price of an M2, and it makes a lot of sense for a number of reasons. That said, my primary interest is full auto is SMGs and I’ve shot a 635. I don’t think that is the best choice for a 9mm SMG. Given my interest in full auto is primarily SMGs that is how I would end up using a M16 most of the time.

The other gun I was considering in the M2 price range was a BRP STG in Suomi form. That has the same sort of character I am looking for and I already have plenty of mags, drums, etc that work in. However, at the end of the day it is still an open bolt SMG and not actually a real Suomi.




I did consider the AC556. I watched the A-Team in the 80s. 🤣

I don’t expect I would be unhappy with the AC, the shooting experience between the M1 Carbine and the Mini-14 is pretty similar. I suspect the full auto versions would be similar. However, I’m really not looking for another way to shoot 5.56. I get the carbine ammo costs 308 money now. I might even consider something like a BM59 or M14 instead. However, I’ve shot a FA M14 and that isn’t an experience I need to repeat enough to spend $18-$20k on a gun. It was fun, but it wasn’t that fun.

Too bad I just can’t buy em all, the ARFCOM way.

I suppose, but putting a bbl on a carbine is literally some rosin, a bbl vice, and an action wrench that goes round & round til the little lines meet.  I was astounded.

You better stop tempting us with Carbine or I might have to get one.


Out of curiosity if one had a commercial gun - it then wouldn't be sacrilege to then Cut the barrel short (like an "Advisor") style.

Does anyone have good info on carbine gas port size for a shortened barrel?if cut or make a short barrel as you say its not bad to change?

The first M-2 I got (my first NFA firearm) came with a chopped barrel and stock.  As far as I know, the previous owner hadn't touched the gas system and it ran just fine.  Nice fireball from the muzzle, too.

My buddy with the post sample got a deal on an Advisor and is going to make it a M2 also. I’m looking forward to seeing how it runs.

Attached File


Attached File

That is awesome looking!   Never thought about SBR carbine.  It would go well with my Mini-G.

If you had a GI gun and didn't want to chop a GI bbl, you can just buy a new bbl and chop that one.

I always thought the enforcer pistol with one of those underfolding (MP40 style) stocks would be cool.

I had thought I had my mind made up to get a stemple as my @nd MG but you guys are making me re-consider and get an M2.  I hate confusion  - I can only afford one MG at a time

You definitely can’t go wrong with a BRP-Stemple. What do you already have?  We are trying to make the same choice.

MAC-10 in 45 and in 9mm with original cans and Lage 9mm uppers.  The lage uppers actually run nice for something different.

I was considering a Lage MAX-10/15 but it just doesn't give me the interest that something authentic and different for some reason.  Like dating a supermodel with gigantic clown shoes - has some nice attributes but just can't stop looking at the one awkward difference.


I am (or was until this M2 thread came up) considering two different Stemples. One is actually the Burgess SW76, and a local Shop has a Stemple BRP Thompson kit 45 version.  Kind of nice, but still has some clown shoe attributes - But Stemples run and the Burgess has a good rep.

I was also considering an AC556 - but they seem to be jumping higher in price than I want to pay and my SBR Mini-14(AC556K clone)  and Stainless GB sort of keep my Ruger itch under control.  

I like grabbing cases of 9mm for under $250 lately which permits more frequent stopping by the range on my way to grocery shop dump some mags pack up and leave so the 9mm SW76 makes most sense, but sort of like the BRP Thompson.  BRP is helpful and can keep it running well.  Its in 45,  45 is more expensive but seems to be dropping slowly.

Is it a new BRP Thompson or an older one?  As I understand it the new version is easily converted to the other configurations and calibers, while the older BRP-Thompson is more fixed in that configuration.

I have the MAX-10/15 for one of my M10s. It runs like a top and is fun to shoot. That said, I don’t really have that much interest in rifle cartridges on full auto. It is loud and gets really hot. I shoot a lot more 9mm and .45 Auto than 5.56. That said, I’m not sorry I got the upper, it was much cheaper than any 5.56 MG and I do get the itch sometimes.

The appeal of the M2 for me is that it is different (closed bolt, historical, totally different character from MACs and tube SMGs) while also not quite being a rifle caliber.

FWIW, I almost never shoot my MACs with the stock uppers. I am almost exclusively Lage despite having stock uppers in all three calibers. My favorite configuration of all the guns I have presently is the M11A1 with the MAX-31k 9mm upper and a nice Suomi drum or coffin mag.

The local Stemple Thompson is the older M1A1 - but looks like new - At a glance it does look like an M1A1 - I actually like the older version better
when dressed as a Thompson - But its not as easy to convert.  I guess Brian at BRP can convert it to new style - If desired.   If I get it I don't anticipate swapping -

I wish there were some other MAC style uppers to play with.  I'd like one that resembled a Bren that fired 7.62x39 from a top mag - As a MaC could seemingly hide its silhouette within n a Bren-looking arrangement.  

Or a Tippman style 22 "upper" that fired 22 from links/belts that they make.

My first observation of an M2 as a kid was from the Classic 1951 Horror Film "The Thing From Another World" AKA the original "The Thing"

I can't imbed a specific timestamp of a youtube video here for some reason but at 3:20 They plaster the door with a full auto burst from an M2 Carbine.

Funny as a kid and a young gun enthusiast - I can remember saying "Hey- That M1 carbine just shot full auto!!!"  I need to get one!!!

Back in those days we didn't have any VCRs etc to re-watch it - I looked forward to that moment every time the film was on TV and still do.

So if you have a Registered M2 Carbine (Receiver) are you allowed to have all of the M2 conversion parts as spares?

ETA I have an M2 on the way.

Thinking I want to make an Advisor out of it.

Replacing the barrel - It indexes on the lines but how does it headspace ? Check headspace file bolt lugs until ots in spec (If it needs adjsutment)?

Personally, I believe you can own M2 spare parts if you own a legal M2.  It may get a bit theoretically legally dicey if you also own an M1 as that complete set of "spare parts" will also drop in and convert your M1 into a machinegun.   That said so will a spare set of M16 parts even though the autosear won't fit.   I think this is just one of those situation where common sense would best apply.   If you have an M2 and want to own spare parts I would keep them in a separate container marked "M2 Spare Parts"  and I would keep them in your home and not drive back and forth to the range with a full set of M2 parts in your trunk along with a semi-auto M1.

At the end of the day unless you think your house is going to be raided by the BATFE or some other government agency because you are a drug dealer, on a terrorist watch list, or have recurring spats of domestic abuse in your home where the cops are called....nobody from the government is going to go through your box of spare parts.  

If you want to be extra extra...safe just don't have a complete set of M2 spare parts (delete the hammer, etc. or keep some of the M2 spare parts at another location separate from the M1)

As for installing the barrel its a bit more involved than what was posted above.

1. Hope the old barrel comes out easy on a 80+ year old gun.  You may be in store for lots of penetrating oil and maybe some heat and if it still wont come undone a jig that fully support the receiver and applies equal rotational pressure vs. an off axis leverage action wrench.  On a $10K receiver I wouldn't just throw a cheater bar on an M1 carbine action wrench and put your back into.

2. You need to be able to accurately measure the angle distance between the tick marks when the barrel is hand tight.  On a carbine there is no "torque spec" for the barrel.   There is a spec (I believe from memory its roughly 5 to 15 degrees with 10 being close to ideal) of angle between the tick marks when hand tight.  This equates to the proper torque when the barrel is wrenched down.  If the tick marks are too far apart your are going to put too much torque into the barrel and if they are too close it will be under torqued.  There are a couple of different ways to measure the angle distance but you will need the proper tools to do it.

If the tick marks are too far apart its a lathe operation to take the barrel collar down a bit.  If they are too close you can try and roll or peen the collar over a bit but honestly to me that barrel just wasn't meant for that gun.

3.  Once the barrel is installed you need a set of headspace gauges to make sure headspace is correct.  If it doesn't headspace in spec than you need to swap bolts and hope you get lucky and find  one that headspaces properly or you will need to rebarrel with a different barrel or if headspace is short you could use a chamber reamer to increase the depth of the chamber in the barrel.

4. You may also need to deal with the skirt on the barrel.  If the skirt is too long you may have to machine it back a bit so the barrel will install properly.

If you have all the tools and experience and it all goes to plan (barrel comes out easy, new barrel hand tightens to the ideal angle, the skirt is good, it all headspaces fine, barrel flat and front sight are all straight when torqued down) its not super complicated and  you are good to go.  You may also be able to wing it a bit with a cheap semi-auto as well and just eyeball the tick mark gap and/or skip the headspace check.  However the pucker factor is going to creep in when something doesn't go 100% to plan on a barrel swap on a $10K+ receiver.

If you have never seen or done a semi auto M1 barrel replacement before I am not sure I would start with rebarreling an expensive transferable M2 as your first attempt.

Just my 2 cents anyway and hope it all goes well if you do undertake the job.

Thank you - Super information.  I contacted a friend who has many of the Carbine tools, gauges, reamers etc.  and knowledge.  He was friends with Larry Ruth (RIP) when we all lived in the same area.

When I told him I wanted to make an advisor length last night (I could see his eyes roll over the phone) - He likes things perfectly GI and in spec -  Its already perfect size don't F with it and make it useless, short and loud.

This is really a range curio - so I'm not going to ever use it in combat, place it in a museum, etc. If its not practical - that is okay (although It may give my buddy a heart attack watching the mutilation.)

I never got into carbines so I think I will jump in the pool now and try to learn what I can before I destroy something.

Wow, sorry I was a bad influence on you by starting this thread.  

What sort did you get?  I'm looking forward to hearing your impressions and experiences when it comes in.  I'm hoping to buy in the next month or so.

I'm still waiting on my invoice to pay.

Its an Odd commercial Registered M2 and Universal is registered as the Maker of the MG which I thought was odd versus a conversion by an individual or Gunsmith like Hard Times Armory that did a lot of these in the 80s.  

Its an early Universal (1965 I think) registered receiver.  The price was right and the early universal are actually okay being GI compatible and forged receivers.  If I am going to chop it - well its just a commercial carbine.  It was test fired and worked - or the video clip of it looked good.  I'm willing to roll the dice and tinker with it.

I can have range visits with it when my dealer gets the e-file Form 3 approved and gets it in.

Looks like a lot of fun. Looking forward to range reports.

I just arranged the purchase of a registered conversion kit. Now I have to decide on a host or two.

Excellent.  In hindsight I should have gone with a registered conversion kit/parts.

I will post more info as things develop.  Still waiting for the Form-3-to-Form-3 local dealer to go through and ship.  My range allows conjugal visits and shooting.

My Carbine friends are telling me to not go "Patty Hearst" and Don't cut it down.
For those who don't know that story - https://www.gunsamerica.com/digest/the-symbionese-liberation-army/


In the mean time hunting for parts, tools/gauges, ammo and mags.

Wolff has extra power mag springs and complete gun spring kits and I got some to have on hand.

I forgot how crappy carbine mags construction was.  



I'm going to invest in various tools, gauges,

I know the "kit" gives all the important parts and makes the situation a lot more flexible, but it still feels weird paying 5 figures for this:

Attached File



I am looking forward to the ability to try it in different hosts.  I'm still thinking I'm going to eventually settle it in a Fulton gun so I can have a threaded barrel with chrome lining and not put full auto strain on a 75+ year old gun.

I also put myself on the backorder list for a BRP STG Suomi.  I think I am going to sell one of my M10s.  That should come close to recovering the cost of the M2 kit, and then I can put that toward a BRP.  I feel like two M10s is unnecessary.  I'll probably sell the .45 and then get the .45 parts for the BRP so I can use it if I feel the need to shoot .45 ACP on full-auto.  

Is Brian at BRP taking orders for Stemples? including Thompsons?  I thought all had been spoken for.  

My M2 is being shipped today should have it soon (at dealers anyway) then paperwork, then some play time.

I did order some GI mags - I also will be doing an experiment. I went in with a friend to buy a small lot of KCI mags from Gunmagwarehouse dirt cheap.
The mags worked in his semi-auto but I want to see if they work in full - A common issue is they don't work on full auto - probably due to outrunning springs ???   but they were on sale for dirt cheap - can't help but tinker out of curiosity and to promote perhaps useful information to others.

I took some mags apart, polished the followers added some Wolff springs, lubed  and marked them to see how or if The Wolff springs can help the KCI mags and compare to un-modified.

Oddly the KCI 30 round mag spring is indeed longer than the Wolff, sprins see pic  but the Wolff is a tiny amount stronger even if shorter.

I didn’t ask about Thompsons, but I spoke to him and he said he would have guns available in November. I’m on the list for a U45 with all Suomi conversion parts.

Let me know how the mags work out. I miss 1990s mag pricing. My third centerfire rifle was a M1 Carbine (wish I still had it) that I bought in 1993. GI 15 round mags were available new in the wax paper for $1.50 each.

The Kahr Inlands are not GI spec dimensionally.  A damn shame.

I had found a transferable (factory registered/marked M2) Iver Johnson Enforcer model in a modified paratrooper stock.  Ran well after a basic tune-up/replacing springs.  Ended up sending it in to Fulton Armory to have them do a full inspection and rebuild/rebarrel.  I wanted to revert to the traditional look.  Fulton Armory verified the forged receiver was fully to USGI specs, built the rest like a new factory build, and it has been running great.

Went from this:


To this:


I can even still use the paratrooper stock...

Nice. Do you like it better back to normal carbine length?  I'm considering going the opposite - Going from standard length to "Advisor" maybe 12" barrel .
I know it will be louder, but really love the look of the advisor.  It does make sense to have it full length as the carbine can engage targets at longer range if desired.  I never really plan on using it for anything other than fun - I guess I will have time to make up my mind waiting for the Form-4 to approve.  

The advisor keeps it light and compact.  It's a little louder but that can be offset with a conical flash hider (I used the Inland one with 1/2x28 thread pitch).  The trade-off is not maximizing the potential of the round and giving up some accuracy.  

I had planned to send it to Fulton Armory since buying it and decided that a full rebuild would be a better option than maintaining the old barrel and related components.  I had a nice original M2 stock and was leaning toward a more traditional look.  I debated going with their 11" barrel, but ultimately decided that I preferred the traditional sight picture and more traditional look.  The traditional sight also allows me to use my original muzzle brake.  In my experience, the muzzle brake provides a noticeable improvement when controlling muzzle rise during short bursts.

I got to check out the M2 at the dealers today.

I took it apart to inspect it and the disconnector lever was off ()

The lever is affixed to the swing arm part via  a pin (normally its all one assembly) but it would pop in and out easily
It would work for three rounds pop off and then go back to semi.

The good news is Those three rounds were flawless but then the disconnector pin pops off and its back to semi.

Midwest said they would take care if it.  I think I can get a spare NOS lever easily so will try to do that this week.  I can also try to weld this back on.





Gun is super light - lighter than my MAC-10.

All mags, GI 15, 30 and all KCI (with wolff and factory springs)  all feed great so far - although weirdd test full for 3 rds and then on semi just fine.

Ammo used was some US Vintage from 1972.  Love the bandoleers and stripper clips/guide for loading.  Curious why they didn't do 15 in a clip vs 10 to load 15 and 30 rd mags but 15 might be too many to push.  

I also ordered some Carbine tools (gas plug, barrel, receiver wrenches and bolt tool sight tools and gauges)



I'm not worried about it - Seems like this will

Here is the part you seek:

M2 Trip Lever

I have ordered from them and they are reliable.

Whenever I pick up a carbine I am impressed with how light they are, especially when considering they are head and shoulders above any SMG or PCC for velocity/energy.

Got one on the way.

I am hoping to get my tools and see if I can convince the shop owner to remove the barrel so I can have it cut to approx 12" and threaded

Will keep everyone posted on this carbine adventure.

Update:

I was able to get my stock and broken lever home as those are just unregistered parts.

I welded the pin with my Harbor Freight flux core welder.  I just needed a dab of weld and cleaned it off, seems to be holding.  I am awaiting the new replacement part which will likely take days to get here. so this gives me a change to try repairing it in the meantime.

I stripped, sanded and re-oiled my stock.  It had quite a few dings in it.  Under the filth on the inside it is still marked BWI or Blanton Woodworking Industries who made Universal's early walnut stocks.  As universals are high cut on the stock and low on the handguard, I removed materials that matched a low cut military stock to hide the obviously commercial look.

The shop is closed for the holiday for a few days so I will update later this week to see if it functions and if it may need more tweaking etc.

That looks nice!

I finally got my refinished stock and repaired (just a tac weld) Disconnector lever  brought them back to the shop and oiled it up.

It ran like a sewing machine! Zero failures in 9 stripper clips (90 rds) Frankly I was expecting it to need more work and surprised it runs this good.

Runs great on 30 and 15 rd KCI Korean mags, USGI 15 rd mags and 30 rd KCI with Wolff springs.  I did underload them (20rds in each 30 rd mag and 10rds for each 15 shot mag merely this was a test)

Ammo was USGI 1972 dated stuff I got from another arf.com member on EE.

It seems to cycle pretty fast.  Quite enjoyable to shoot in bursts.  The wood came out nice, and I did steel wool the blue (its polished blue for the most part) to remove some mild surface rust.  It looks excellent in my opinion.
The TRUOIL looks a little glossy and need to tone it down with steel wool.


[youtube]shorts/3oxoAEATiuc[/youtube]
[youtube]shorts/7XYh-R5eRwg[/youtube]

Not sure why the youtube videos aren't showing

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/3oxoAEATiuc?feature=share
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7XYh-R5eRwg?feature=share

[youtube]shorts/0qhhEdbu4jo[/youtube]https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0qhhEdbu4jo?feature=share