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Posted: 5/4/2024 5:15:20 PM EDT
wondering if anyone tried one of these?
I currently have two PVS-14s with a panobridge - it's a really well made bridge but I am using it as a binocular more and more so considering switching to a pure binocular housing. I do want to keep manual gain...and saw the manticore come out. do you know what % Steps the gain uses? (it has buttons rather than a knob). if I just hold one of the tubes with one hand, will it be rigid enough for the other one to not flop around? thank you! |
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Definitely curious about the manticore gain steps too, and hands on experience with it as a whole. Don’t see a lot about it yet. Nocturn also has the samurai coming out later this year and it appears to have a gain knob on the offboard control unit / battery pack.
Unrelated to nocturn, but related to new manual gain housings, I was curious how the new DTNVS-MG does gain control and adjustable IR output on the same knob. I was provided the following by the guys at Steele and it does look a little over-complicated. There is similarly little info about it on the web thus far. I can provide a review when my set (DTNVS-MG) arrives in about two weeks. Attached File |
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yes! looks a little complicated. wish they just made two knobs or something. I'm sure it would become memory after a few uses.
do you know if the DTNVS gain will be stepped or just regular? (was looking at the RNVG-VG and I learned that is stepped even though it has a round looking knob). |
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I do not remember off top of my head exactly what the increments are on the Manticore / how many “steps” it has, however, I would certainly say it’s got a more than sufficient adjustment range to fine tune to your liking.
While I understand why it may seem preferable to have a theoretically infinite level of adjustment on a rotary knob, in practical use, IMHO, you may be overthinking it, and e.g., the AN/PVS-31A has a rotary gain dial, however it too is adjusting in “steps,” you can feel the detents “click” as you spin the knob, which I’ve never heard of being a major issue in actual use. In actual use, most people adjust the gain a lot less than they imagine they will, as the tube ABC actually generally works pretty well (I’m sure someone will be along to say “nuh uh, I use mine all the time”—again, I am generalizing, there are of course exceptions). The Manticore has a similar number of “steps” as the AN/PVS-31A, and again, should not really be an issue. Beyond that, a lot of folks seem to dislike the idea of buttons and prefer knobs, however in some ways, buttons can actually be more durable and reliable than knobs—when it comes to damage to NVGs, probably one of the most common issues we tend to see are broken or non-functional knobs, because they tend to stick out and are usually rotating on a fairly thin / delicate axle, if the goggle is going to sustain impact damage (e.g.,) knobs and switches can often take the brunt of an impact. Buttons are also fairly common on a lot of devices, including the GPNVG, AN/PSQ-36 FGE, and ENVG-B, not to mention most MFALs, etc.. If anything, my main “complaints” about the button design is that I don’t love all of the buttons being right next to each other and similar in size and shape, and the fact that you can’t simply “crank” the gain if you need to rapidly adjust (instead you need to press-press-press-press), however these are relatively minor issues, and nothing that I would consider a show-stopper / deal killer for the Manticore, especially given the relatively low cost compared to goggles with similar feature sets like the L3Harris BNR (BNVD-1531) and ESA F5032 (AN/PVS-31D) when at non-clearance pricing. As far as rigidity / optical pod tension—the Manticore has user adjustable tension built into the arm/bridge interface, which means that not only can you adjust it to make it as a “rigid” or loose as you want it to be, but it can also be re-tightened at a user level if it begins to loosen over time through use. The Manticore obviously is a fairly new design, even relative to Nocturn’s previous and well known offerings like the original 3-D printed Katana, and production units have only just recently begun rolling out to dealers (most previous units have been pre-production samples and T&E units), so it’s unsurprising that there’s not a whole lot of good information out there on them. Meanwhile, the DTNVS-MG is an update to the already pretty well-known DTNVS, so there shouldn’t be a whole lot of surprises for most folks already familiar with that design. While the dual-function (press and turn) knob function can look / sound fairly complex when written out on a sheet of paper, but is actually fairly simple and intuitive to use, and not terribly dissimilar from the knob function on the AN/PVS-31A and BNR. The biggest difference is the “press-and-hold then turn” for power-on, as opposed to just “press” for the L3Harris systems, but once you learn it, it’s honestly not that terribly complicated, and since it has independent tube cut off / shut off on stow, unlike the L3 goggles, it is less critical that you can cut the goggle on instantly, because you don’t have to shut the tubes off to run it tubes folded in the deployed position, they will automatically shut off when folded up, and automatically turn back on when brought back to an “in-use” position. Otherwise, once on, gain knob works exactly how you’d think, double tap for illum (same as BNR). Triple-tap to go into “program” for the illuminator. Off, again, pretty simple, press and hold, and when the light pipe lights up, let go. We have both available for both new builds and conversions / housing swaps—we just haven’t had a chance to get them listed on the website yet (very soon), we’ve been preparing a lot of new releases and announcements that will be rolling out here soon ahead of the summer months. ~Augee |
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Tactical Night Vision Corporation - TNVC, INC.
http://www.tnvc.com [email protected] (909) 796-7000 Ex. 201 |
From what they said on YouTube, it was like 20 adjustments for gain.
I’m planning on ordering one. Been waiting for a variable gain articulating nvg |
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So, update on the DTNVS, I was told that the gain was stepped but the knob definitely provides continuously variable gain which is fantastic!
The adjustable IR illuminator is also continuously variable, and really not hard to get to from the standard operating mode. Quick double click to turn IR on, triple click, adjust the IR power, triple click to go back to gain adjustment. Double click to turn IR on and off as necessary and the IR power setting is maintained until you turn the tubes off (haven’t checked to see if they reset when flipped up). Another bonus I’m appreciating about these is how far back they stow when using a cadex mount. Attached File Attached File |
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Put in an order for the manticore w rpo lenses today. Bout a 6 week or so wait
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I recently received a housing from a friend for a new personal build. Admittedly I am not really into having the newest thing that comes to market, because I really like to stick with proven housing systems that have been out for a long time. I also like housings that use as many pvs14 components as possible because I keep all those spares on hand. And if it comes down to preference, I was more interested in a basic Rnvg build or if I was going to try something new, the new Rnvg-MG housing looked really interesting. I enjoy very simple designs that are easy for cavemen like me to assemble and maintain.
But because I was offered it at a price that was too good to pass up, and needed a replacement for my recently sold set of PVS31D, I went ahead and grabbed one. I'll probably post small updates here if it helps anyone else that are considering them. For now, here are some photos from taking out of the box, inspecting the housing, and doing a first prep/cleaning of the housing itself Attached File For those unaware, it uses proprietary EGACs (pigtails essentially) , which adhere to the image tube and make contact inside the housing. This is what allows the Manual gain to function. Attached File Attached File Back to what I mentioned earlier regarding pvs14 components, this whole housing is a departure from the norm. The tube retaining rings are of a translucent plastic design, which essentially combine the functions of a light pipe and tube retainer into one component. This piece take its own special tool to install, adding to its departure from Pvs14 style components. Attached File What really surprised me which I some how missed on the product descriptions is the addition of a micro two-pin lemo port for external power. This means you will be married to Nocturns Battery pack which uses that connector, unless you know people who specialize in custom cable manufacturing. This is actually where I started warming up to this housing as I am a big fan of external power. However I still need to actually see how that port location works in terms of cable routing etc. Attached File I went ahead and did an initial prep of the housing by doing a close inspection and cleaning, and found many parts to have rough molding, rough threads, etc... That need minor attention before building. For DIYers and vendors alike, this is a step that can't be overstated in terms of importance. Every housing you get will require some amount of attention, so that no debris ends up laying on your image tube, so for the uninitiated, please don't be alarmed at the next photo, which is a metal shaving on a q-tip, leftover from the machining process which made it's way off of one pod interior. No biggie, just figured I would mention for the guys who like to assemble their own NVGs. Attached File That's all I have for now. Will continue to update with new posts once the build is complete. It seems like a really well made housing, and given how detailed the machining is, I am amazed they offer it for roughly $2,200-$2,400~ It leaves no feature off the table and gives you just about everything you could want, including being very light weight for an all aluminum housing. The build process is not for the feint of heart, as there are more steps involved in correctly assembling these (that I might discuss later). I would recommend consumers go ahead and leave this to their favorite vendors to complete. I'm just slightly crazy, so don't mind me. |
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Originally Posted By French1966: I recently received a housing from a friend for a new personal build. Admittedly I am not really into having the newest thing that comes to market, because I really like to stick with proven housing systems that have been out for a long time. I also like housings that use as many pvs14 components as possible because I keep all those spares on hand. And if it comes down to preference, I was more interested in a basic Rnvg build or if I was going to try something new, the new Rnvg-MG housing looked really interesting. I enjoy very simple designs that are easy for cavemen like me to assemble and maintain. But because I was offered it at a price that was too good to pass up, and needed a replacement for my recently sold set of PVS31D, I went ahead and grabbed one. I'll probably post small updates here if it helps anyone else that are considering them. For now, here are some photos from taking out of the box, inspecting the housing, and doing a first prep/cleaning of the housing itself https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000587_jpg-3237929.JPG For those unaware, it uses proprietary EGACs (pigtails essentially) , which adhere to the image tube and make contact inside the housing. This is what allows the Manual gain to function. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000593_jpg-3237954.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000594_jpg-3237960.JPG Back to what I mentioned earlier regarding pvs14 components, this whole housing is a departure from the norm. The tube retaining rings are of a translucent plastic design, which essentially combine the functions of a light pipe and tube retainer into one component. This piece take its own special tool to install, adding to its departure from Pvs14 style components. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000591_jpg-3237959.JPG What really surprised me which I some how missed on the product descriptions is the addition of a micro two-pin lemo port for external power. This means you will be married to Nocturns Battery pack which uses that connector, unless you know people who specialize in custom cable manufacturing. This is actually where I started warming up to this housing as I am a big fan of external power. However I still need to actually see how that port location works in terms of cable routing etc. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000595_jpg-3237965.JPG I went ahead and did an initial prep of the housing by doing a close inspection and cleaning, and found many parts to have rough molding, rough threads, etc... That need minor attention before building. For DIYers and vendors alike, this is a step that can't be overstated in terms of importance. Every housing you get will require some amount attention, so that no debris ends up laying on your image tube, so for the uninitiated, please don't be alarmed at the next photo, which is a metal shaving on a q-tip, leftover from the machining process which made it's way off of one pod interior. No biggie, just figured I would mention for the guys who like to assemble their own NVGs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000590_jpg-3237983.JPG That's all I have for now. Will continue to update with new posts once the build is complete. It seems like a really well made housing, and given how detailed the machining is, I am amazed they offer it for roughly $2,200-$2,400~ It leaves no feature off the table and gives you just about everything you could want, including being very light weight for an all aluminum housing. The build process is not for the feint of heart, as there are more steps involved in correctly assembling these (that I might discuss later). I would recommend consumers go ahead and leave this to their favorite vendors to complete. I'm just slightly crazy, so don't mind me. View Quote Nice. Thanks for that pic of the lemo port. That’s the first I’ve seen that shows where they put it. I ordered the nocturn batt pack with it. I prefer the cr123 batteries over AA that most seem to take. |
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Thanks for posting this.
Been mulling this housing vs the DTNVS MG for my next order from TNVC. This definitely helps. |
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Build is done. Now it's just time to put it through it's paces and get used to it.
Initial thoughts: The articulation is solid, very similar or slightly better than my Dtnvs was, but not as firm as my 31D. I do like the IPD stop design just not when it comes to adjusting/reseting it. If you have OCD like me, and accidentally go past your desired IPD setting, you have to articulate them all the way vertically basically as far as they will go In order to reset the IPD to make new adjustments. I have to have the goggles off my helmet to do that, but your experience will vary based on what NV mount you are using and how it effects articulation range. Anyways, it's a big departure from the 31A/31D thumb screw IPD adjustment style It weighs in right at 20oz basically, which is heavier than I thought it would be. For some reason I got mixed up and thought it was going to be 18.5ish, but I was mistaken. Looking back, I got it mixed up with the polymer Manticore that's going to be introduced. This is definitely not what I consider a light weight bino, but then again it's also the first all aluminum articulating bino that I have owned. I'm used to the 31A, 31D, and Dtnvs. The extra weight of 1.5oz~ compared to what I am used to isn't really something I am noticing on my helmet, and I am a firm believer that chasing weight loss with a NV/helmet setup is much easier by just getting a lighter helmet and adressing what other accessories you add on to your lid. I really am not a fan of the push buttons, and don't see myself warming up to them at all. The only redeeming quality that I can really place on it are better Water resistance (maybe) and less likely to take damage (no knob sticking out to get hit), which I believe Augee covered previously in this thread, and is a very real thing as I have seen plenty of power and gain knobs break or get bent etc. As far as quickness and ease of use, it's not as good as a dial. The buttons are incredibly stiff and seemingly need to be mashed down for adjustment, as I am getting a lot of false adjustment clicks that don't do anything. I don't want that to sound like a huge deal, because it's also brand new and I am used to buttons breaking in with use (such as mod buttons and unity buttons for lasers etc...) Anyways without any real use on them that's as far as I can currently comment. But there is one thing that they absolutely excel in, which is them feeling really solid in the hand and looking really cool... Attached File Attached File |
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They look awesome. Really like that green color.
As far as the buttons, how does the power button work? Is it a quick push and it goes on or off, or do you have to hold it down for a bit. Out of all the buttons that’ll be the one that gets 95% of the use. |
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Originally Posted By JonLSU: They look awesome. Really like that green color. As far as the buttons, how does the power button work? Is it a quick push and it goes on or off, or do you have to hold it down for a bit. Out of all the buttons that’ll be the one that gets 95% of the use. View Quote You have to hold it for a few seconds to power on or off |
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Originally Posted By JonLSU: How about the variable gain? If you hold down the button will it cycle faster through the steps or does it have to be individual presses? View Quote Yes you can hold down the buttons and it will cycle through the gain settings which is faster than trying to single press. I will try to post a video later this evening so everyone can get an idea of how fast it cycles and how many steps there are. |
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Good post on Reddit, French! I just responded to you there, regarding the loctite on the cadex unit.
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That is a very nice looking housing. However, i am spoiled with lightweight housings now. I would love to try one out, but its getting to be a bit costly with so many new housings on the market now. If you find another deal on one of those, hit me up. Lol
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I finally can comment a little more now that they have several hours of use on them including a 3hr night shoot and some driving.
Attached File Firstly, be aware that some night vision mounts such as Cadex and Norotos have very strong magnets inside them which can cause interference with magnetic based independent pod shut off with certain bino housings. This was the case with my combination of Cadex and the Manticore R (just my sample of one of course). My left pod had issues turning off, thus a removal of magnets from my Cadex mount was necessary. It was an immediate fix. It's a non-issue in terms of the housing and I chalk it up to Cadex using way too powerful of magnets, but I can imagine some people freaking out about their new bino having "issues". So if you find yourself in this position just be sure to consider your mount before you go calling up the housing manufacturer or vendor. Attached File Attached File Attached File On to performance: Honestly I am pretty impressed with how consistent the pod shut off is. It is probably the fastest and best independent pod shut off I have used. I'm really happy with it. The buttons which I didn't like at first have already broken in a good bit and I understand how they function and I know what to expect now. So despite what I said in previous posts, the buttons are slowly growing on me. I'm not convinced that I would go out of my way to buy this housing just for the push buttons, but I am finding them to be perfectly usable. If you try this housing and find the buttons to be overly stiff, wait a while and they will break in rather nicely. It probably beats having them be super soft when new only to get weak and mushy over time. I did slightly tweak the articulation tension to my liking and find it to be very solid feeling. One of the best I have felt. Ultimately why someone would want to buy into this housing, and what I find most appealing: It's aluminum so it gives off indistructable vibes without being overly heavy. I think it will take a fair amount of abuse and be unscathed. It uses the latest form of manual gain implementation via the adhesive pad style pigtails, which for a consumer might be lost on them as far as appreciation, but for builders it does offer a pretty unique solution which is looking like it will become the standard for getting a manual gain feature into articulating binos. It is truly a full feature device. If you like manual gain, external power capable, pvs14 lenses, articulation, tastefully machined aluminum construction, while still being relatively light weight, then I really don't see a competitor to it yet (at least one that I would consider purchasing). Last but not least a pretty badass warranty: "We have a lifetime no questions asked policy on products or components that we manufacture. You break it we fix it." Despite me starting out with a different build in mind and not having planned on getting a Manticore, I am not regretting it at all. It allowed me to maintain the same features that I had grown accustomed to with my Elbit 31D, while picking my own tubes based on my budget at the time. After all, that is the appealing part of getting a custom bino instead of a finished product from L3 or Elbit. You can pick whatever image tubes that best fit your needs and budget, as opposed to being limited to the tubes that come in a 31D or 31A. I feel like we are experiencing the Renaissance era of night vision housings where the commercial market is starting to step it's game up and offer things that were once only available in high end factory systems from the two night vision giants. This housing is the perfect representation of this, and it's awesome to see more options. Make no mistake though, with this many good options available now, consumers will have even more questions to ask of vendors. Super quick gain adjustment video: https://youtu.be/rkAjKbJafpI?si=BZc4zGMUjLyyjuaR Unfortunately my phone is auto adjusting to the brightness levels so I will try to get a better video of this later. I think what most people are concerned with is the speed at which you can adjust the gain as well as the steps. I've found it most effective to hold down on the buttons instead of single pressing them. You can quickly get it into the neiborhood of your desired gain level and then make one or two single presses to dial it in as needed. They seemed to have picked the perfect speed of adjustment when holding, as well as very appropriate steps in single press. I have zero complaints about how they approached this. I need to do some more testing, but from what I am seeing, you can't black out your image like on a pvs14 gain potentiometer. Pvs14 potentiometers are adjustable from 0-175k ohm, and Nocturn seemed to forgo the essentially unusable lower range of adjustment in favor of practicality and quickness of adjustment (not having to start scrolling from 0k ohm). Also the gain memory seems to be working great. The Bino powers on to the last used gain setting. Lowest gain setting on the Manticore (left) vs a Pvs14 (right) Attached File Unless someone has any questions, I probably won't comment again until I get in some of the external power accessories that I ordered for it. Sorry for writing a novel in the comments Nocturn does sell the 2pin lemo to 4pin Fischer cable separately, which does give the user an option to use a pvs31 battery pack, or any other appropriate 4pin Fischer power sources (not to be confused with 4pin lemo such as anvis packs, although adapters do technically exist) https://nocturnindustries.com/products/4-pin-fischer-to-2-pin-lemo-00b-cable |
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Originally Posted By French1966: I finally can comment a little more now that they have several hours of use on them including a 3hr night shoot and some driving. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000662_jpg-3244277.JPG Firstly, be aware that some night vision mounts such as Cadex and Norotos have very strong magnets inside them which can cause interference with magnetic based independent pod shut off with certain bino housings. This was the case with my combination of Cadex and the Manticore R (just my sample of one of course). My left pod had issues turning off, thus a removal of magnets from my Cadex mount was necessary. It was an immediate fix. It's a non-issue in terms of the housing and I chalk it up to Cadex using way too powerful of magnets, but I can imagine some people freaking out about their new bino having "issues". So if you find yourself in this position just be sure to consider your mount before you go calling up the housing manufacturer or vendor. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000629_jpg-3244274.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000642_jpg-3244275.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/496867/1000000644_jpg-3244276.JPG On to performance: Honestly I am pretty impressed with how consistent the pod shut off is. It is probably the fastest and best independent pod shut off I have used. I'm really happy with it. The buttons which I didn't like at first have already broken in a good bit and I understand how they function and I know what to expect now. So despite what I said in previous posts, the buttons are slowly growing on me. I'm not convinced that I would go out of my way to buy this housing just for the push buttons, but I am finding them to be perfectly usable. If you try this housing and find the buttons to be overly stiff, wait a while and they will break in rather nicely. It probably beats having them be super soft when new only to get weak and mushy over time. I did slightly tweak the articulation tension to my liking and find it to be very solid feeling. One of the best I have felt. Ultimately why someone would want to buy into this housing, and what I find most appealing: It's aluminum so it gives off indistructable vibes without being overly heavy. I think it will take a fair amount of abuse and be unscathed. It uses the latest form of manual gain implementation via the adhesive pad style pigtails, which for a consumer might be lost on them as far as appreciation, but for builders it does offer a pretty unique solution which is looking like it will become the standard for getting a manual gain feature into articulating binos. It is truly a full feature device. If you like manual gain, external power capable, pvs14 lenses, articulation, tastefully machined aluminum construction, while still being relatively light weight, then I really don't see a competitor to it yet (at least one that I would consider purchasing). Despite me starting out with a different build in mind and not having planned on getting a Manticore, I am not regretting it at all. It allowed me to maintain the same features that I had grown accustomed to with my Elbit 31D, while picking my own tubes based on my budget at the time. After all, that is the appealing part of getting a custom bino instead of a finished product from L3 or Elbit. You can pick whatever image tubes that best fit your needs and budget, as opposed to being limited to the tubes that come in a 31D or 31A. I feel like we are experiencing the Renaissance era of night vision housings where the commercial market is starting to step it's game up and offer things that were once only available in high end factory systems from the two night vision giants. This housing is the perfect representation of this, and it's awesome to see more options. Make no mistake though, with this many good options available now, consumers will have even more questions to ask of vendors. Super quick gain adjustment video: https://youtu.be/rkAjKbJafpI?si=BZc4zGMUjLyyjuaR Unfortunately my phone is auto adjusting to the brightness levels so I will try to get a better video of this later. I think what most people are concerned with is the speed at which you can adjust the gain as well as the steps. I've found it most effective to hold down on the buttons instead of single pressing them. You can quickly get it into the neiborhood of your desired gain level and then make one or two single presses to dial it in as needed. They seemed to have picked the perfect speed of adjustment when holding, as well as very appropriate steps in single press. I have zero complaints about how they approached this. I need to do some more testing, but from what I am seeing, you can't black out your image like on a pvs14 gain potentiometer. Pvs14 potentiometers are adjustable from 0-175k ohm, and Nocturn seemed to forgo the essentially unusable lower range of adjustment in favor of practicality and quickness of adjustment (not having to start scrolling from 0k ohm). Also the gain memory seems to be working great. The Bino powers on to the last used gain setting. Unless someone has any questions, I probably won't comment again until I get in some of the external power accessories that I ordered for it. Sorry for writing a novel in the comments Nocturn does sell the 2pin lemo to 4pin Fischer cable separately, which does give the user an option to use a pvs31 battery pack, or any other appropriate 4pin Fischer power sources (not to be confused with 4pin lemo such as anvis packs, although adapters do technically exist) https://nocturnindustries.com/products/4-pin-fischer-to-2-pin-lemo-00b-cable View Quote Thanks. Good write up. |
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The Noctis / Carson BNVD housing I picked up has a similar issue with the pod shutoff and magnets. Hopefully that also becomes a standardized type of thing. Nice writeup - looking forward to a longer term review. Curious how it will stack up to an AB RNVGA.
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We are living in amazing times. You can now build some amazing NV. Just a comment on the manual gain and knobs vs buttons. I still prefer manual gain, possibly because I move low and slow at night, so there's plenty of time to fiddle with it if you want. Obviously that's different from highly mobile gunfights in recent years. So whatever works for you.
On knobs vs buttons. Even though buttons may be fiddly, if I was building a new system, I think I would prefer them. Simply because a knob is very easy to bump/bend, and is another water intrusion point. If you're going to the trouble of building an alum housing, then buttons would be the best choice, IMO. Good write-up Frenchy. You should get a free beer from every vendor for those pro tips. Not to mention every builder you save time and aggro. But you still owe me one for that smokin' deal on the LAM. |
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It's all about the fiddle factor.
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Originally Posted By Diz: We are living in amazing times. You can now build some amazing NV. Just a comment on the manual gain and knobs vs buttons. I still prefer manual gain, possibly because I move low and slow at night, so there's plenty of time to fiddle with it if you want. Obviously that's different from highly mobile gunfights in recent years. So whatever works for you. On knobs vs buttons. Even though buttons may be fiddly, if I was building a new system, I think I would prefer them. Simply because a knob is very easy to bump/bend, and is another water intrusion point. If you're going to the trouble of building an alum housing, then buttons would be the best choice, IMO. Good write-up Frenchy. You should get a free beer from every vendor for those pro tips. Not to mention every builder you save time and aggro. But you still owe me one for that smokin' deal on the LAM. View Quote I agree w the buttons vs knobs preference. At work, we have about 45 pvs14s and the biggest issue that we have is guys that run into brush/trees and break or rip off the manual gain and power buttons. We have a guy at work that started 3d printing the buttons for us and they actually are staying on just as good as oem ones. I prefer Manual gain as well mainly to be able to reduce backsplash on my face for when we are trying to sneak up on people |
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Got these in. I did notice that on these, the gain would go down to completely dark and then back up. The buttons actually feel really good. Doesn't take long to get use to them and be fairly quick to manipulate.
Here are some weights of the Manticore with RPO lenses (battery installed) (16.6 oz) Attached File And with amazon Iris lenses (batt installed) (18.5 oz) Attached File |
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