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could you please explain how you keep the square baffles from becoming mis aligned? thanks Lee
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Pleased to meet you. Hope you guess my name...
FL, USA
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I am moving this to the new supppressor forum. Hopefully, someone over there with the ability to tack it will do so.
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This is Tony K, and I approved this message.
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tag
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Screwy? Ain't It?
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I covet your threading tool, You are building way heavy for a 22lr can, If you want more volume, you can just buy a .223 M16 can and shoot 22lr through it.
But it looks like you like to build yourself, have fun. |
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Class 3 shooters blow thier load faster and with just one pull on the trigger
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gorilla
read your post. been there with the "hollywood quiet " can using 22LR subsonics, you can read my post in this forum Reflex-OPS Hybrid, and view pics of my new can thanks to Fiz. |
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keep us up to date. I have wonted to build one under a form 1 for a long time.
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Looks nice. Add some cam followers to the steady rest ! |
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Swede ? I recognize the URL on the pics... This fellas work is awesome if you have seen previous posted work the last yr or so.
I still have not finished looking at the stuff on the homepage, there is some impressive stuff there. |
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This is a great write up. Please keep the pics coming. I plan to build in the future, and this will help me out greatly.
Mods: Is there a way to get a tack on this post, some great info for us home builders. |
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I have never done a coin knurl, it looks good, I would think since the Knurl has a specific spacing that if the diam of the material was not just right for the spacing there would be a point on the knurl where the spacing was not quite right?
Seeing what real lathes can do makes me covet something other than my chicom combo machine. |
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Class 3 shooters blow thier load faster and with just one pull on the trigger
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David, the knurler doing the honors is a Quick brand knurler. This style of knurler is different in that the knurling wheel actually cuts the metal rather than forming it with pressure. Don't ask me how it does it, but it's like magic, and forms knurls with very low pressure. I understand your question, which applies more to coarser diamond knurls. With this thing, I simply feed it in until the knurl looks good. It cuts until I stop the infeed, and it basically (and automatically) creates knurls without skipping or bad spacing. Quick knurlers are usually >$150... I bought mine used for $10, along with an AXA holder. I'd like some opinions from you guys. I can't decide whether to go with a standard 1/2" X 28 single-point mount which is typical of almost all .22LR cans, or turn my Kuehl down and execute a two-point mount. Pro's - 2-point mount will be stronger and more accurate for alignment, and allows the creation of a modest blast chamber area behind the muzzle. May need to cross drill bbl to bleed gasses, something I'm loathe to do. Shorter OAL of weapon. Cons - the mount is now pretty much proprietary to the bbl... suppressor cannot be moved to another gun without extensive mods to the new bbl. But it's not like I'm going to hang this can on a P22! Thoughts? I'm leaning towards 2-point. |
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I say 2 point for the blast chamber. Looks better with a 2 point with longer barrels. Just my 2 cents.
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Check your 22upper, if it won't cycle with subsonic ammo you will need to shorten the barrel or port the velocity out into a 2 point mount chamber in the silencer,
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Class 3 shooters blow thier load faster and with just one pull on the trigger
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tag
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"I will be much more tactical when I walk home from the grocery store once I get that Pointman. With a mere Camelbak Motherlode the ninjas might be able to steal my Pop Tarts if I get attacked on the way home." - Aimless
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Gorilla,
Regarding the pic, ID of the can is 1.75 in. The barrel sleeve is closed and abutts on an OPS Type collar and is threaded forward 1/2x28TPI. Overall length of the can is about 280mm and weighs approx./ but not like a 1911 . Its heavy but it will suppress well and at the same time will tolerate maybe 3-30rd mag dumps. Im not humping it thru the boondocks like the military so weight is of little concern but durability and max. suppression is. My concern about your 2 point concept is that it will expose the external barrel surface to the heat of the blast dischagre. Heat IN the barrel during firing and trapped heat IN the blast area could do damage I think to your barrel, short of re-heat treating the 4140 steel during firing. Any way that's why I designed my can with the requisite barrel sleeve to protect the exterior of the barrel from the Plasma during firing. |
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Gorilla,
Curious as to who's threading tool you are using, been looking for one and up until now, I've been using a 60 deg tool bit in a boring bar. --C |
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"If you carry a gun, people will call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what in the hell do I have to be paranoid about?" Clint Smith
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Makes sense. I was considering a collet type arrangement for 2-point mounting, rather than turning down the bbl, and shielding the bbl exterior from hot gasses. Both of my Kuehl bbls are a very consistent 0.875" +/-0.001" OD and a collet arrangement for a two-point mount would be feasible.
But on the other hand I want to keep it simple. A truly simple can would be a straight 1/2 X 28 single-point mount, but when the can is as massive/heavy as this one, I am not confident that I could avoid a baffle-strike with a 1-pt mounting. I want to keep the tolerances on the baffle holes small and tight for best efficiency. I'm going to redraw the rear end again, and look for another method. Heat: I've done many back to back mag dumps with my Vector in .22LR, and my impression is that the heat really isn't much of an issue. Sure it'll warm up but NOTHING like a rifle round. I am confident that any steel (carbon or stainless) suppressor can handle FA .22LR all day long. SS is superior for both heat and corrosion resistance. I've seen heavily parkerized suppressor internals though and after mucho .22LR there was no evidence of corrosion, assuming the can is shot dry, no H2O or other water-based coolant added. That's where I am, trying to balance simplicity with excellent function. What's cool about a homemade can on a F1 is the ability to repair/rebuild it, improve it, etc. Experimentation is appropriate. Along these lines, having the primary tube being well-built and solid, the same tube can have its internals replaced, going from straight/plain baffles, to K-baffles, etc. without running afoul the BATFE, so long as you don't have 100+ baffles kicking around the shop. |
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It's an ISCAR "miniature" internal threading tool. Those tiny inserts are good only to about 20TPI, anything coarser and the tooth doesn't have the depth. But they are super sharp and efficient, and cut very well. Shank is 5/8" and will fit an AXA holder. I tried to link the PDF page which shows the tool, but it doesn't work. Go to MSCDirect and enter this stock number in the search box : 60874120 If you're a typical hobbyist, 5 inserts (3 tips per insert) will last for many years. |
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I'm simply amazed at what some of you guys can do. I'm barely able to swing a hammer.
Very cool thread. |
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"TIM-MAH!"
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have the inside and internals hard chromed..
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One thing I would like to point out for general information is that heat isn't a problem with FA .22LR when using steel construction but leading is. Currently I have a AAC Ranger that a customer purchased with his AM180. Stock weight is 18 oz, I weighed his can and it is 25.3 oz. There is 7.3 oz of lead built up in the can and an ultrasonic cleaner won't phase it. It cannot be disassembled for cleaning. It is imperative to be able to disassemble any .22LR can used in a FA application. |
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"If you carry a gun, people will call you paranoid. That's ridiculous. If I have a gun, what in the hell do I have to be paranoid about?" Clint Smith
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Holy cow!! That's a pretty significant amount of "build-up". Is that a normal occurance? |
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"I will be much more tactical when I walk home from the grocery store once I get that Pointman. With a mere Camelbak Motherlode the ninjas might be able to steal my Pop Tarts if I get attacked on the way home." - Aimless
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Cant wait to see the end result.
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got any up dates.
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Gorilla, is the area between your mount and the forward bushing part of your blast chamber? If it is I would suggest having a sleeve come back from the forward mount to the thread mount so you don't have "crud" build-up on your barrel that you will drag across your threads when removing the can.
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Yes that area recieves expanding gasses from the muzzle by flowback through a bolt hole circle. The threads on the aft of the bbl (at the very end of the can) are 0.625"... the forward portion of the bbl is 0.562. Smaller than the threads but not by a whole bunch. I was hoping that the crud wouldn't interfere with the unscrewing of the can, but after seeing the baffle-cleaning thread with the huge amounts of gunk, I see the need for what you suggest. I'll add it to the design. Thanks! |
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Very nice work.
Thanks for the progess updates. |
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