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EE 100% (5)
WI, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2024 12:43:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History Originally Posted By AccelR8:
Jrpett I’m a little late replying but no, I have not used it but I would offer my thoughts. I’m afraid of the 600 degrees curing temperature. If you read about the heat treating of the two common aluminum alloys it’s like this; 980F for one hour, quench in water. Then one of the following; one hour at 400F, five hours at 350F or 8 hours at 325F.
So, the curing of the paint as called for in the instructions is easily within the temperature range of the heat treating of both alloys. I have no idea what effect, if any, the curing temps will have on the aluminum but I am not willing to find out! My guess is it will not have a negative effect but then again, I don’t know. I did buy a can of VHT engine enamel mainly out or curiosity. It does call for a heat cure but at a lower temperature. I intended to paint some gun parts with it but so far have not. I think one day I’ll prep and paint a scrap piece of metal and then torture test it.
At this time I think a finish specifically intended for firearms is the safest way to go. I have been using Norrell’s Moly Resin with very good results. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quote History Originally Posted By AccelR8:Jrpett I’m a little late replying but no, I have not used it but I would offer my thoughts. I’m afraid of the 600 degrees curing temperature. If you read about the heat treating of the two common aluminum alloys it’s like this; 980F for one hour, quench in water. Then one of the following; one hour at 400F, five hours at 350F or 8 hours at 325F. So, the curing of the paint as called for in the instructions is easily within the temperature range of the heat treating of both alloys. I have no idea what effect, if any, the curing temps will have on the aluminum but I am not willing to find out! My guess is it will not have a negative effect but then again, I don’t know. I did buy a can of VHT engine enamel mainly out or curiosity. It does call for a heat cure but at a lower temperature. I intended to paint some gun parts with it but so far have not. I think one day I’ll prep and paint a scrap piece of metal and then torture test it. At this time I think a finish specifically intended for firearms is the safest way to go. I have been using Norrell’s Moly Resin with very good results. A quick update. I tried this paint. I was concerned with the 600F curing temp, so I only went as far as the second 400F cure. It appeared to be good. I normally clean my AR type firearms with chlorinated brake cleaner, so as a test, I took a Q-tip with some of it on there, swiped it across the finish, and it removed it. I also tried with some acetone, and the same results. Maybe it's because that it really did need the 600F cure to do it, but as of now, I can't recommend using this. I normally use Molyresin, but mine is over 10 years old and didn't want to use it not knowing if it was still good. My past results with Molyresin have been great using those two solvents/chemicals, it's very resistant to them. Next time I'll use Molyresin.
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