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Posted: 7/5/2016 1:10:24 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Assuming you've made triple-sure the gas block is properly aligned, have you made sure the gas tube isn't somehow kinked? My 8" upper runs fine with a standard carbine buffer. IIRC, pistol buffers are quite a bit heavier than a standard carbine buffer. I'd swap in a standard carbine buffer and spring, and see how that works. At worst, it will give you more information about your problem. Finally, keep in mind that a subsonic Blackout round will have a lot less energy than a super, which includes less gas pressure and volume. You may need to go really light on both the spring and buffer, or resort to only shooting subs with a suppressor (which will provide a lot of back pressure and thus improve cycling). Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By defenderhome:
Originally Posted By defenderhome:
Loaded my first subs today and they failed to cycle suppressed. 208gr Hornady ELD match 10.9gr. AA1680 2.165 OAL 1094 fps average GUN: 9" CMMG 1/7 Phase 5 pistol tube/ buffer standard low pro gas block Any suggestions? I don't want to open the gas port if I can help it. I will shoot supers when I hunt. I was thinking of a reduced power spring? What are the good ones? How about Buffers? Thanks ETA Typo I'm going to clean and lube the heck of out this gun. Broke down and bought some HNDY 208 factory loads and a friend loaned some 220gr subs. If the factory stuff doesn't run, I'll have to open the gas port or maybe try the lighter spring. Assuming you've made triple-sure the gas block is properly aligned, have you made sure the gas tube isn't somehow kinked? My 8" upper runs fine with a standard carbine buffer. IIRC, pistol buffers are quite a bit heavier than a standard carbine buffer. I'd swap in a standard carbine buffer and spring, and see how that works. At worst, it will give you more information about your problem. Finally, keep in mind that a subsonic Blackout round will have a lot less energy than a super, which includes less gas pressure and volume. You may need to go really light on both the spring and buffer, or resort to only shooting subs with a suppressor (which will provide a lot of back pressure and thus improve cycling). Cleaned, lubed and fired. The 220gr and 208gr factory loads cycled but did not hold the bolt back when shooting suppressed. My hand load 208's did not cycle still. Thinking of opening the gas port to .12 and can get an adjustable gas block. I hate to get a lighter spring but that is an option too. Frustrating for sure. |
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Posted: 7/5/2016 9:54:23 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By defenderhome:
Cleaned, lubed and fired. The 220gr and 208gr factory loads cycled but did not hold the bolt back when shooting suppressed. My hand load 208's did not cycle still. Thinking of opening the gas port to .12 and can get an adjustable gas block. I hate to get a lighter spring but that is an option too. Frustrating for sure. Try a standard buffer (just the buffer, don't mess with the spring) before you start cutting anything. A standard carbine buffer is a known quantity, and is substantially lighter than any pistol buffer I've ever seen or read about. Standard carbine buffers weigh 3.0 oz, while pistol buffers start out at 5.5 oz and go up fast. If you're getting 220 grain factory loads to cycle but not far enough to lock back the bolt, even with a suppressor, then going with a lighter buffer should help a lot. |
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Posted: 7/6/2016 11:10:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Try a standard buffer (just the buffer, don't mess with the spring) before you start cutting anything. A standard carbine buffer is a known quantity, and is substantially lighter than any pistol buffer I've ever seen or read about. Standard carbine buffers weigh 3.0 oz, while pistol buffers start out at 5.5 oz and go up fast. If you're getting 220 grain factory loads to cycle but not far enough to lock back the bolt, even with a suppressor, then going with a lighter buffer should help a lot. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By defenderhome:
Cleaned, lubed and fired. The 220gr and 208gr factory loads cycled but did not hold the bolt back when shooting suppressed. My hand load 208's did not cycle still. Thinking of opening the gas port to .12 and can get an adjustable gas block. I hate to get a lighter spring but that is an option too. Frustrating for sure. Try a standard buffer (just the buffer, don't mess with the spring) before you start cutting anything. A standard carbine buffer is a known quantity, and is substantially lighter than any pistol buffer I've ever seen or read about. Standard carbine buffers weigh 3.0 oz, while pistol buffers start out at 5.5 oz and go up fast. If you're getting 220 grain factory loads to cycle but not far enough to lock back the bolt, even with a suppressor, then going with a lighter buffer should help a lot. I weighed the buffer and it is standard carbine. Spring looks identical to another carbine spring. So either I need to boost the gas or lighten the spring I suppose |
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Posted: 7/6/2016 8:26:05 PM EDT
[#4]
I am having an issue forming brass and need some help.
I am using range pickup mil brass. I cut the cases to 1.400. when I run them through my die (redding NM 300 full length sizer) the headspace is all over the place. anywhere from 1.365 to 1.378. used Dillon case lube on them. what am I doing wrong? It doesn't feel like the cases are really dragging on anything when i do size thems |
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Posted: 7/6/2016 9:31:14 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
I am having an issue forming brass and need some help. I am using range pickup mil brass. I cut the cases to 1.400. when I run them through my die (redding NM 300 full length sizer) the headspace is all over the place. anywhere from 1.365 to 1.378. used Dillon case lube on them. what am I doing wrong? It doesn't feel like the cases are really dragging on anything when i do size thems That range pickup brass is what's going on. If you anneal the cases before forming them, you'll probably have much more consistent forming - it really helped me. I cut the cases, debur the cut edge, then anneal. Once they're annealed, not only are they easier to form, but they should be more consistent in headspace dimension too. This is because various 5.56mm makers anneal their cases to differing distances down the case body, so brand A will be springier than brand B at some certain point on the case, and will spring back (for a longer headspace dimension) than the brand A case. |
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Posted: 7/6/2016 11:05:01 PM EDT
[#6]
ya that is kinda what i was and wasn't hoping you would say. i have all the parts to build an annealer but not the time to play around with it right now. everything is still sitting in boxes
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Posted: 7/6/2016 11:09:50 PM EDT
[#7]
GHPorter is correct.
An inexpensive option, https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/439440_Low_budget_Annealing.html |
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Posted: 7/6/2016 11:53:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Any decent places to send 5.56 brass to have it converted to 300BLK and annealed?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 7/7/2016 8:57:44 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By defenderhome:
Any decent places to send 5.56 brass to have it converted to 300BLK and annealed? Check the EE. There are several folks offering this service. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 7/8/2016 4:38:41 PM EDT
[#10]
Afternoon Gentleman,
Looking for some advice. I'm hoping to find a compromise powder that will work well for subs and supers? I'd really like to run surplus bullet weights like 147's and 168/175's if I can find loads that work well but we'll see. I seem to remember seeing a post that showed Lil Gun working well, Are there others the may not run as hot?? Appreciate the help. -Toyz |
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Posted: 7/8/2016 5:40:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mr_Toyz:
Afternoon Gentleman, Looking for some advice. I'm hoping to find a compromise powder that will work well for subs and supers? I'd really like to run surplus bullet weights like 147's and 168/175's if I can find loads that work well but we'll see. I seem to remember seeing a post that showed Lil Gun working well, Are there others the may not run as hot?? Appreciate the help. -Toyz +1 for lil gun I've had great results loading 147gr, 150gr, and 208gr over it |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 7/8/2016 8:41:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Any truth to what I've read about LilGun making the weapon very hot??
-T |
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Posted: 7/8/2016 11:50:12 PM EDT
[#13]
I never noticed it, but I don't do mag dumps.
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Posted: 7/9/2016 10:14:07 AM EDT
[#14]
I do some pretty high volume fire sometimes and my 8" blackout stays noticeably cooler than my 10.3" 5.56 both wearing a saker 7.62
In fact the saker is half way under the rail on the blk and it never gets too hot to hang on |
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Posted: 7/9/2016 1:28:29 PM EDT
[#15]
So I'm working up some reloads for a new 300 blk build and so far I figure for supersonic the Barnes Tac-TX 110 gr. loads are the best for expansion and performance at a reasonable price. Is this correct?
I'm also looking for a good subsonic load. I'm thinking that the Lehigh Defense maximum expansion 194 gr. bullet it the best but at $77 per 50 bullets, their price is insane. Anybody have any recommendations for another bullet with good expansion at subsonic velocities without the ridiculous cost? |
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Posted: 7/9/2016 11:45:13 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hkusp9:
So I'm working up some reloads for a new 300 blk build and so far I figure for supersonic the Barnes Tac-TX 110 gr. loads are the best for expansion and performance at a reasonable price. Is this correct? I'm also looking for a good subsonic load. I'm thinking that the Lehigh Defense maximum expansion 194 gr. bullet it the best but at $77 per 50 bullets, their price is insane. Anybody have any recommendations for another bullet with good expansion at subsonic velocities without the ridiculous cost? I want to know as well... |
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Posted: 7/10/2016 7:33:32 PM EDT
[#17]
Read this paper detailing thorough and well controlled testing of a variety of .30 caliber bullets' subsonic expansion and other performance. Their conclusion: ".30 caliber bullets fired at subsonic velocities are unlikely to instantly or near-instantly incapacitate a medium sized game-animal unless the central nervous system or heart is directly struck." So placement, placement, placement does it, NOT $1.50 a pop bullets, right?
Given this evidence, I'd go with heavy CAST bullets for subsonic hunting, and since these are so much cheaper than the fancy and complex "expanding" jacketed bullets, I can afford to develop a very tight load and practice my tail off with it to be able to make the kind of shots I would want to make, every time. |
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Posted: 8/5/2016 2:18:32 PM EDT
[#18]
I'm looking for some load data for the new Hornady 208gr ELD Match. I've got Lil'Gun and 1680, and I want to keep it subsonic in a 16".
Anybody have a load like that? |
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Posted: 8/5/2016 5:40:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: sheltot]
[#19]
Hornady's 9th edition shows 1100 fps for the 208 gr. Amax (COAL=2.25") using 11.3 gr of 1680. There's plenty of room above that, so start there and work up or down based on chronograph results.
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NC, USA
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Posted: 8/6/2016 4:51:11 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brouhaha:
I'm looking for some load data for the new Hornady 208gr ELD Match. I've got Lil'Gun and 1680, and I want to keep it subsonic in a 16". Anybody have a load like that? I'm running the ELD's in a RARR right around 1000fps 10.8gn aa1680 CCI 450's 1.530 cbto This works well in my gun and has been very accurate, but of course work your own load down to find what is safe for you. |
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Posted: 8/6/2016 4:57:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rak320]
[#21]
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Posted: 8/6/2016 9:38:12 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SwampDog_13:
I'm running the ELD's in a RARR right around 1000fps 10.8gn aa1680 CCI 450's 1.530 cbto This works well in my gun and has been very accurate, but of course work your own load down to find what is safe for you. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SwampDog_13:
Originally Posted By brouhaha:
I'm looking for some load data for the new Hornady 208gr ELD Match. I've got Lil'Gun and 1680, and I want to keep it subsonic in a 16". Anybody have a load like that? I'm running the ELD's in a RARR right around 1000fps 10.8gn aa1680 CCI 450's 1.530 cbto This works well in my gun and has been very accurate, but of course work your own load down to find what is safe for you. My load is very similar. 10.9gn and 2.167 coal. |
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Posted: 8/7/2016 1:04:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SigJoe:
My load is very similar. 10.9gn and 2.167 coal. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SigJoe:
Originally Posted By SwampDog_13:
Originally Posted By brouhaha:
I'm looking for some load data for the new Hornady 208gr ELD Match. I've got Lil'Gun and 1680, and I want to keep it subsonic in a 16". Anybody have a load like that? I'm running the ELD's in a RARR right around 1000fps 10.8gn aa1680 CCI 450's 1.530 cbto This works well in my gun and has been very accurate, but of course work your own load down to find what is safe for you. My load is very similar. 10.9gn and 2.167 coal. Are these 16" barrels? |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 8/7/2016 3:36:25 PM EDT
[#24]
My Ruger is indeed 16".
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TX, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2016 12:10:47 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rak320:
<a href="http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/rak320/media/Gun%20Stuff/3A205734-C68C-404E-8979-C40A723726C7_zpsisbrfs6g.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q691/rak320/Gun%20Stuff/3A205734-C68C-404E-8979-C40A723726C7_zpsisbrfs6g.jpg</a> My first .300 BLK 19.0 Gr H110 110 V-max Grant Nice man. Im running 20.0 gr of 296 under a 110 vmax. Crono'd at 2396 fps avg. Out of a 16 " 1/8 dd bb. It gave me right at 1 moa at 100 yards. |
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Posted: 8/8/2016 9:35:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SwampDog_13:
My Ruger is indeed 16". Thanks. I'm loading these for a friend, and need to make sure they stay subsonic from a 16". |
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Posted: 8/20/2016 12:40:52 AM EDT
[#27]
Shot some of the 300blk Hornady 208gr ELD match with 10.6 and 10.8 grs. of A1680
Didn't bring the crono, but the 1st 3 shots went into 1 hole... should have stopped then for a pic  (50yds)
After firing a Barnes 110gr into water jugs for fun, I found the copper bullet around the shank, covered in Im guessing lead from the MBC or Palmette 203's bullets. If Im picking up lead on the Barnes bullets, what kinda lead would I be blowing into a silencer....? Kind of rethinking "Cheap Subs" 
I can get 1, 208gr ELD, and 1, 55gr Hornady SP for the cost of 1,220gr SMK, so its my own "Free Bullets" plan 
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Posted: 8/20/2016 7:38:19 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: Shot some of the 300blk Hornady 208gr ELD match with 10.6 and 10.8 grs. of A1680 Didn't bring the crono, but the 1st 3 shots went into 1 hole... should have stopped then for a pic (50yds)After firing a Barnes 110gr into water jugs for fun, I found the copper bullet around the shank, covered in Im guessing lead from the MBC or Palmette 203's bullets. If Im picking up lead on the Barnes bullets, what kinda lead would I be blowing into a silencer....? Kind of rethinking "Cheap Subs" I can get 1, 208gr ELD, and 1, 55gr Hornady SP for the cost of 1,220gr SMK, so its my own "Free Bullets" plan Were those coated or plain led? |
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Posted: 8/20/2016 10:37:19 PM EDT
[#29]
Both coated.
I was surprised to see a silver barnes bullet (just the shank, but still) I still have some of both loaded, so I will be doing more testing. |
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Posted: 8/21/2016 8:10:07 PM EDT
[#30]
So I'm reloading 300 BLK with Barnes 110 TAC-TX using Lake City brass which is annealed and full length sized with Imperial graphite neck lube as well. I'm using CCI military primers and 19.4 grains of Lil Gun powder.
They're seated to mag length and they have a medium Lee factory crimp die crimp on them. Despite all of this... they still group like dog shit out of my 8.5" 1/8 twist AR. Any ideas? |
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Posted: 8/21/2016 9:48:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hkusp9:
So I'm reloading 300 BLK with Barnes 110 TAC-TX using Lake City brass which is annealed and full length sized with Imperial graphite neck lube as well. I'm using CCI military primers and 19.4 grains of Lil Gun powder. They're seated to mag length and they have a medium Lee factory crimp die crimp on them. Despite all of this... they still group like dog shit out of my 8.5" 1/8 twist AR. Any ideas? I don't know what exactly you mean by "group like dog shit," but I have some ideas. Back off the powder charge. "As fast as possible" isn't usually good for accuracy, and even "kinda speedy" might not work well with your barrel an those bullets. 19.4 grains is not "at" the limit according to Hodgdon, but it's not far away - and their testing was with a 16" barrel, which could have made a noticeable difference in accuracy. I use Sierra's Varmint 110 grain bullets in mixed brass with CCI standard Small Rifle primers and Lil' Gun through my 8" barrel. I worked up very conservatively, and though I don't have my data in front of me, I don't think I was anywhere near 19.4 grains. Despite a crappy plastic picnic table instead of a bench and a not-so-stable front rest, I kept all of my test loads pretty well grouped at 25 yards (all I had access to when I tested those loads). |
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Posted: 8/21/2016 10:13:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hkusp9: So I'm reloading 300 BLK with Barnes 110 TAC-TX using Lake City brass which is annealed and full length sized with Imperial graphite neck lube as well. I'm using CCI military primers and 19.4 grains of Lil Gun powder. They're seated to mag length and they have a medium Lee factory crimp die crimp on them. Despite all of this... they still group like dog shit out of my 8.5" 1/8 twist AR. Any ideas? I'm thinking this is a hunting load or you would try a different 110 gr bullet. I'm at 20.0 grs that I worked up to carefully. eta using blue, I'm using H-110. Nothing wrong with your brass choice, (crimp removed right?) I also uniform the primer pocket. I would suggest you change primers and powder to H-110. I don't use CCI 41's. Just don't like CCI primers (harder to seat than other brands) and they are not needed anyway. I use Win SR, Wolf SRM, and Magtech SR. I get 5 shot 100 yds groups of 1 1/2 to 2 inches with this bullet. I have no experience with the shorter barrels, I shoot a 16". Could be your barrel doesn't like the Barnes bullet.? I'm now thinking, try another powder like H-110. |
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Posted: 8/21/2016 11:18:57 PM EDT
[#33]
My Barnes load is with H110.
The newest Barnes data I read said the recommended powder was LilGun. I picked up a pound to try, and havent picked it up since. 4 moa with this powder. 
I will stick to the old data... Save the lilgun for mid-weights, or someone else. |
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Posted: 8/22/2016 6:30:16 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
My Barnes load is with H110.
The newest Barnes data I read said the recommended powder was LilGun. I picked up a pound to try, and havent picked it up since. 4 moa with this powder.
I will stick to the old data... Save the lilgun for mid-weights, or someone else. Same results for me as for this poster. Lil Gun group was awful, but h110/w296 groups at 20.0 grains was great. Use the lil gun for mid weights and heavy subs. It works great on those from what I've found. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 8/27/2016 3:20:51 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Same results for me as for this poster. Lil Gun group was awful, but h110/w296 groups at 20.0 grains was great. Use the lil gun for mid weights and heavy subs. It works great on those from what I've found. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By mybronco2:
My Barnes load is with H110.
The newest Barnes data I read said the recommended powder was LilGun. I picked up a pound to try, and havent picked it up since. 4 moa with this powder.
I will stick to the old data... Save the lilgun for mid-weights, or someone else. Same results for me as for this poster. Lil Gun group was awful, but h110/w296 groups at 20.0 grains was great. Use the lil gun for mid weights and heavy subs. It works great on those from what I've found. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Im on my way to buy some H110 now. Thanks guys! |
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Posted: 9/3/2016 8:03:47 PM EDT
[#36]
Getting ready to load up some Tac TX loads for testing, first reloads for 300BO. Gun has 16in BA barrel (whitetail hunter). Distances of hunting will be under 100 yards, most likely under 75.
Question I have is a ladder test the best way to find the sweet spot? or just go the standard, load 3 in increments? I was thinking of doing at 100 yards. |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 3:06:46 AM EDT
[#37]
Shot this at 100y the other day. First time loading these bullets. Prone with improv. rest. Vortex Crossfire 7x |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 4:44:37 AM EDT
[#38]
Does anyone here make 300blk brass from cut blank brass? If so, would the neck split if you did not anneal.
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Posted: 9/4/2016 8:51:41 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By craig24680:
Getting ready to load up some Tac TX loads for testing, first reloads for 300BO. Gun has 16in BA barrel (whitetail hunter). Distances of hunting will be under 100 yards, most likely under 75. Question I have is a ladder test the best way to find the sweet spot? or just go the standard, load 3 in increments? I was thinking of doing at 100 yards. If you mean the Barnes tac-tsx bullets (black tips), then load with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, load to 2.250" oal, put a light crimp on it with a Lee factory crimp die, and go have fun. Squares are 1" wide, and was shooting at 50 yards with a 4x scope. That sight in distance gets me plenty of range given the bullet flight path. (Only 3"low at 175 yards) Could do better with more magnification, but it's fine for deer. 
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 9:29:36 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By assaultdog0351:
Does anyone here make 300blk brass from cut blank brass? If so, would the neck split if you did not anneal. There's an extensive thread by someone who did this. No real problems, and IIRC he didn't anneal the cases. I ALWAYS anneal after cutting and before forming. I think I get more consistent neck size and tension this way, and in my experience, forming is easier after annealing too. |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 9:52:31 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
There's an extensive thread by someone who did this. No real problems, and IIRC he didn't anneal the cases. I ALWAYS anneal after cutting and before forming. I think I get more consistent neck size and tension this way, and in my experience, forming is easier after annealing too. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
Does anyone here make 300blk brass from cut blank brass? If so, would the neck split if you did not anneal. There's an extensive thread by someone who did this. No real problems, and IIRC he didn't anneal the cases. I ALWAYS anneal after cutting and before forming. I think I get more consistent neck size and tension this way, and in my experience, forming is easier after annealing too. There is a good thread on reloading 5.56 with the blank brass, but I have yet to find the 300blk thread with blank brass. |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 10:16:18 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By assaultdog0351:
There is a good thread on reloading 5.56 with the blank brass, but I have yet to find the 300blk thread with blank brass. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By assaultdog0351:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By assaultdog0351:
Does anyone here make 300blk brass from cut blank brass? If so, would the neck split if you did not anneal. There's an extensive thread by someone who did this. No real problems, and IIRC he didn't anneal the cases. I ALWAYS anneal after cutting and before forming. I think I get more consistent neck size and tension this way, and in my experience, forming is easier after annealing too. There is a good thread on reloading 5.56 with the blank brass, but I have yet to find the 300blk thread with blank brass. Here it is. You'll see that I got schooled on modern blank brass, especially 5.56 mm blanks. I had very old info (which is easy, since there's not much info available on blank manufacturing anywhere). As in your other thread, the technical obstacles to reloading blank brass - even as blanks - are pretty formidable. |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 12:48:21 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
If you mean the Barnes tac-tsx bullets (black tips), then load with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, load to 2.250" oal, put a light crimp on it with a Lee factory crimp die, and go have fun. Squares are 1" wide, and was shooting at 50 yards with a 4x scope. That sight in distance gets me plenty of range given the bullet flight path. (Only 3"low at 175 yards) Could do better with more magnification, but it's fine for deer. <a href="http://s145.photobucket.com/user/rob99rt/media/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r235/rob99rt/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg</a> Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By craig24680:
Getting ready to load up some Tac TX loads for testing, first reloads for 300BO. Gun has 16in BA barrel (whitetail hunter). Distances of hunting will be under 100 yards, most likely under 75. Question I have is a ladder test the best way to find the sweet spot? or just go the standard, load 3 in increments? I was thinking of doing at 100 yards. If you mean the Barnes tac-tsx bullets (black tips), then load with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, load to 2.250" oal, put a light crimp on it with a Lee factory crimp die, and go have fun. Squares are 1" wide, and was shooting at 50 yards with a 4x scope. That sight in distance gets me plenty of range given the bullet flight path. (Only 3"low at 175 yards) Could do better with more magnification, but it's fine for deer. <a href="http://s145.photobucket.com/user/rob99rt/media/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r235/rob99rt/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg</a> Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Good shooting! Should have clairified, yes the black tip Barnes. I have h110 to load. Will try that load and see how it goes. I have a 4.5-14 nikon scope as its the only spare scope I had lol. Huge and heavy for my needs with way more magnification but until my TV and stove stop breaking, it'll have to do :) Thanks for tips. |
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Posted: 9/4/2016 8:27:39 PM EDT
[#44]
Fwiw, try your loads over a chronograph to see what kind of velocity your getting. Out of my 9.5" barrel, I'm getting an average of 2,130 fps, so that's what I'm using with the ballistics calculator to figure out my best sight-in distance. You may want to download strelok from the play store to work up a good distance to sight it in at. It's really handy.
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Posted: 9/4/2016 11:44:26 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryIOriginally Posted By craig24680: Good shooting! Should have clairified, yes the black tip Barnes. I have h110 to load. Will try that load and see how it goes. I have a 4.5-14 nikon scope as its the only spare scope I had lol. Huge and heavy for my needs with way more magnification but until my TV and stove stop breaking, it'll have to do :) Thanks for tips. Quote HistoryIOriginally Posted By craig24680: Originally Posted By rob99rt: Originally Posted By craig24680: Getting ready to load up some Tac TX loads for testing, first reloads for 300BO. Gun has 16in BA barrel (whitetail hunter). Distances of hunting will be under 100 yards, most likely under 75. Question I have is a ladder test the best way to find the sweet spot? or just go the standard, load 3 in increments? I was thinking of doing at 100 yards. If you mean the Barnes tac-tsx bullets (black tips), then load with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, load to 2.250" oal, put a light crimp on it with a Lee factory crimp die, and go have fun. Squares are 1" wide, and was shooting at 50 yards with a 4x scope. That sight in distance gets me plenty of range given the bullet flight path. (Only 3"low at 175 yards) Could do better with more magnification, but it's fine for deer. <a href="http://s145.photobucket.com/user/rob99rt/media/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r235/rob99rt/targets/20131124_134709_zpsda4926dc.jpg</a> Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Good shooting! Should have clairified, yes the black tip Barnes. I have h110 to load. Will try that load and see how it goes. I have a 4.5-14 nikon scope as its the only spare scope I had lol. Huge and heavy for my needs with way more magnification but until my TV and stove stop breaking, it'll have to do :) Thanks for tips. I use 20.0 grs H-110 as well. Be sure to work up. |
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Posted: 9/9/2016 2:03:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ws-6]
[#46]
I have a question about dryflash's method of finding coal for 300 BLK.
I have used it with good success for subs but trying it with my first supersonic load (110 v-max). all the loads I am finding are in 2.050 range for COAL but if I use dryflash's I get 2.108. the test cartage will chamber fine and it also feed from the magazine using rapid pulls on the CH without issue. there are no land marks on the bullet and the tip after 3 time loading into the chamber looks fine. at that long of a COAL and this projectile is there enough of the bullet in the case to prevent setback? ETA: Pics 
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Posted: 9/9/2016 8:21:21 AM EDT
[#47]
I have had no issues using the .250 ogive method.
I crimp with a Lee FCD as it helped accuracy and also setback. |
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Posted: 9/10/2016 5:20:41 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
I have a question about dryflash's method of finding coal for 300 BLK. I have used it with good success for subs but trying it with my first supersonic load (110 v-max). all the loads I am finding are in 2.050 range for COAL but if I use dryflash's I get 2.108. the test cartage will chamber fine and it also feed from the magazine using rapid pulls on the CH without issue. there are no land marks on the bullet and the tip after 3 time loading into the chamber looks fine. at that long of a COAL and this projectile is there enough of the bullet in the case to prevent setback? ETA: Pics http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv87/berjet/Mobile%20Uploads/20160909_010133_zpsryeiza8p.jpg http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv87/berjet/Mobile%20Uploads/20160909_010327_zps9apnn3vi.jpg I agree that it looks like there isn't enough bullet in the neck to maintain neck tension with those particular bullets at that COAL. I'd go a little deeper, and get about .3" of the bullet into the case neck. See what COAL you get with that. I've found that having the .250 Bullet diameter a little behind the magazine rib works fine for me. We're probably looking at .10-.15" deeper, and I don't think it'll be a problem. |
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Posted: 9/12/2016 9:14:40 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I agree that it looks like there isn't enough bullet in the neck to maintain neck tension with those particular bullets at that COAL. I'd go a little deeper, and get about .3" of the bullet into the case neck. See what COAL you get with that. I've found that having the .250 Bullet diameter a little behind the magazine rib works fine for me. We're probably looking at .10-.15" deeper, and I don't think it'll be a problem. so I was playing around with it a little more tonight. going to .3 inside the case got me shorter than the published COAL so went ahead just bumped it up to the published COAL of 2.060. that gives me around .28 inside the case and I think that should be fine. thanks |
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Posted: 9/13/2016 8:00:51 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
so I was playing around with it a little more tonight. going to .3 inside the case got me shorter than the published COAL so went ahead just bumped it up to the published COAL of 2.060. that gives me around .28 inside the case and I think that should be fine. thanks Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ws-6:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
I agree that it looks like there isn't enough bullet in the neck to maintain neck tension with those particular bullets at that COAL. I'd go a little deeper, and get about .3" of the bullet into the case neck. See what COAL you get with that. I've found that having the .250 Bullet diameter a little behind the magazine rib works fine for me. We're probably looking at .10-.15" deeper, and I don't think it'll be a problem. so I was playing around with it a little more tonight. going to .3 inside the case got me shorter than the published COAL so went ahead just bumped it up to the published COAL of 2.060. that gives me around .28 inside the case and I think that should be fine. thanks I'd agree - that's not a lot less than what "most folks" consider minimum seating for proper neck tension. The neck of the Blackout case is only about 0.26" long, but getting enough of the bullet in the neck is one of those things that helps get consistent bullet pull. |
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