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Posted: 3/15/2016 5:46:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Lil' Gun is far less finicky than H110 in the kinds of loads you need for 300 Blackout. While their burn rates are listed as being similar, H110 comes with a warning: 'Do not reduce loads more than 3%". H110 is fine for full-power .30 Carbine rounds, but it is too picky for Blackout, at least for me.
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Posted: 3/15/2016 5:52:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: MaxTheRabbit]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
I've got a "new-never opened" 8lb jug of H110. Somebody I know said they'd be interested in it. It was originally intended to be used for "supers" as I realize it's not the best choice for subs. But do you I'd be better served to sell that and get Lil' Gun so I could use powder for subs and supers? Thoughts? (8.5" barrel with pistol gas system) I have been very happy with lilgun for subs and supers, good accurate loads out of my BA 8.3" pistol gas barrel 150gr FMJ, 15.2gr lilgun (.49 top .53 bottom on a lee pro disk) COAL 2.060" 208gr AMAX 8.3gr lilgun (.57 lee disk) COAL 2.250" |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 10:25:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks for the replies. I think you helped make my mind up. I'd rather have one powder for both.
Getting rid of the H110 |
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Posted: 3/15/2016 10:56:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
Thanks for the replies. I think you helped make my mind up. I'd rather have one powder for both. Getting rid of the H110 You can use H110 for subs too. Hodgdon has loads published for 208 and 220gr for subsonic on their website. I have a jug of H110 I've been using for supers with great success and fully intend on using it in subs. Lil Gun and H110 have virtually the same burn rate (Lil gun a little faster), so I wouldn't expect too much difference? This is just pure speculation, I have never used Lil gun. |
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Posted: 3/20/2016 10:22:56 PM EDT
[#5]
I detail cleaned both my 8" and 16" Blackout uppers today. Previously, I'd done what I call a "clean enough to put away" cleaning on both: run a couple of patches through the barrel, wipe things down, clean up obvious crud and re-lube everything - this includes inspecting everything, by the way.
Well today, in detail cleaning both bolts, I found a substantial amount of copper deposited on the tails of each bolt. The 16" upper's bolt has what looks like a "pad" of copper, maybe 1/32" thick and right under where the gas hits it inside the carrier, while the 8" upper's bolt is more evenly "coppered." Both barrels are nitrided, both have pistol gas ports. So is this a "300 Blackout thing," or a "pistol gas thing," or am I shooting loads that are too hot? |
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Posted: 3/21/2016 12:10:28 AM EDT
[#6]
I have experienced that a 300 blk AR seems to just get dirtier than a 5.56 AR.
I totally clean mine every range trip, so I have not experienced the copper issue. |
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Posted: 3/21/2016 1:21:40 AM EDT
[#7]
Made it back to the range on sat to do more shooting /testing of the MBC 245gr Hi-Tek coated bullets.
Shot 25 rounds with 10.6gr of A1680. Averaging 1039 fps 16 SD. Also shot up the last of some other loads, working around this same load. The range was very active and brass was flying! On a aprox 50 foot bench, there was 10 of us and 9 were shooting AR's, and everyone seamed to be using comps With each shot, I could see my target moving in the 3x scope, so wasn't expecting much and was more interested in measuring the FPS, but all were in a 3" group with 100% feed and function, and bolt hold opened, so very happy with that. 
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GA, USA
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Posted: 3/21/2016 7:25:56 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I detail cleaned both my 8" and 16" Blackout uppers today. Previously, I'd done what I call a "clean enough to put away" cleaning on both: run a couple of patches through the barrel, wipe things down, clean up obvious crud and re-lube everything - this includes inspecting everything, by the way. Well today, in detail cleaning both bolts, I found a substantial amount of copper deposited on the tails of each bolt. The 16" upper's bolt has what looks like a "pad" of copper, maybe 1/32" thick and right under where the gas hits it inside the carrier, while the 8" upper's bolt is more evenly "coppered." Both barrels are nitrided, both have pistol gas ports. So is this a "300 Blackout thing," or a "pistol gas thing," or am I shooting loads that are too hot? Never had a "coppering" issue with ar 300blk. I shoot from a 10.2 inch noveske barrel |
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Posted: 3/22/2016 11:00:37 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: Made it back to the range on sat to do more shooting /testing of the MBC 245gr Hi-Tek coated bullets. Shot 25 rounds with 10.6gr of A1680. Averaging 1039 fps 16 SD. Also shot up the last of some other loads, working around this same load. The range was very active and brass was flying! On a aprox 50 foot bench, there was 10 of us and 9 were shooting AR's, and everyone seamed to be using comps With each shot, I could see my target moving in the 3x scope, so wasn't expecting much and was more interested in measuring the FPS, but all were in a 3" group with 100% feed and function, and bolt hold opened, so very happy with that. What OAL are you using when seating those bullets and did you do any modifications to the feed ramps. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 1:06:17 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Lil' Gun is far less finicky than H110 in the kinds of loads you need for 300 Blackout. While their burn rates are listed as being similar, H110 comes with a warning: 'Do not reduce loads more than 3%". H110 is fine for full-power .30 Carbine rounds, but it is too picky for Blackout, at least for me. Fwiw, accuracy out of my 9.5" sbr was lousy with Barnes black tips and lil gun using several different load variations. It shoots very well with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, though, but it pretty much fills the case. Lil gun has worked ok for subs, though, and I do load it for plinking 150 grain loads simply because I have 7+ lbs of it still. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 5:44:24 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Fwiw, accuracy out of my 9.5" sbr was lousy with Barnes black tips and lil gun using several different load variations. It shoots very well with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, though, but it pretty much fills the case. Lil gun has worked ok for subs, though, and I do load it for plinking 150 grain loads simply because I have 7+ lbs of it still. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Lil' Gun is far less finicky than H110 in the kinds of loads you need for 300 Blackout. While their burn rates are listed as being similar, H110 comes with a warning: 'Do not reduce loads more than 3%". H110 is fine for full-power .30 Carbine rounds, but it is too picky for Blackout, at least for me. Fwiw, accuracy out of my 9.5" sbr was lousy with Barnes black tips and lil gun using several different load variations. It shoots very well with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, though, but it pretty much fills the case. Lil gun has worked ok for subs, though, and I do load it for plinking 150 grain loads simply because I have 7+ lbs of it still. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile That just goes to show how picky some guns are, and why it's very important to load for YOUR gun, not just follow some recipe. My H110 tests, with Sierra 110 gr and Hornady 150 gr bullets, gave me some weird velocities as my loads increased. Not a "node-like" plateau, but odd jumps - and "lack of jumps" - in velocity that didn't seem appropriate for the changes in powder quantity. Lil' Gun loads with the same bullets were much more consistent in velocity as compared to powder load. In my guns, anyway. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 9:39:10 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
That just goes to show how picky some guns are, and why it's very important to load for YOUR gun, not just follow some recipe. My H110 tests, with Sierra 110 gr and Hornady 150 gr bullets, gave me some weird velocities as my loads increased. Not a "node-like" plateau, but odd jumps - and "lack of jumps" - in velocity that didn't seem appropriate for the changes in powder quantity. Lil' Gun loads with the same bullets were much more consistent in velocity as compared to powder load. In my guns, anyway. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By rob99rt:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Lil' Gun is far less finicky than H110 in the kinds of loads you need for 300 Blackout. While their burn rates are listed as being similar, H110 comes with a warning: 'Do not reduce loads more than 3%". H110 is fine for full-power .30 Carbine rounds, but it is too picky for Blackout, at least for me. Fwiw, accuracy out of my 9.5" sbr was lousy with Barnes black tips and lil gun using several different load variations. It shoots very well with 20.0 grains of h110/w296, though, but it pretty much fills the case. Lil gun has worked ok for subs, though, and I do load it for plinking 150 grain loads simply because I have 7+ lbs of it still. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile That just goes to show how picky some guns are, and why it's very important to load for YOUR gun, not just follow some recipe. My H110 tests, with Sierra 110 gr and Hornady 150 gr bullets, gave me some weird velocities as my loads increased. Not a "node-like" plateau, but odd jumps - and "lack of jumps" - in velocity that didn't seem appropriate for the changes in powder quantity. Lil' Gun loads with the same bullets were much more consistent in velocity as compared to powder load. In my guns, anyway. I got weird results with W296 (aka H110) with the mid-weight bullets (M80s). Lil'Gun has been much more stable for me in those weights. It seems the warmer, the weirder and hotter the load. What was fine in the dead of NTexas winter started flattening and then cratering primers during warm spells. I also see the copper coating forming on the tail of my bolt. |
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Posted: 3/23/2016 11:30:11 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By out-a-ammo:
What OAL are you using when seating those bullets and did you do any modifications to the feed ramps. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By out-a-ammo:
Originally Posted By mybronco2:
Made it back to the range on sat to do more shooting /testing of the MBC 245gr Hi-Tek coated bullets. Shot 25 rounds with 10.6gr of A1680. Averaging 1039 fps 16 SD. Also shot up the last of some other loads, working around this same load. The range was very active and brass was flying! On a aprox 50 foot bench, there was 10 of us and 9 were shooting AR's, and everyone seamed to be using comps With each shot, I could see my target moving in the 3x scope, so wasn't expecting much and was more interested in measuring the FPS, but all were in a 3" group with 100% feed and function, and bolt hold opened, so very happy with that.
What OAL are you using when seating those bullets and did you do any modifications to the feed ramps. No feed ramp mods. (or any mods) Im loading the OAL of 2.120" -0/+.005" I have only tried the p-mag G3, 20rd mags. I also haven't loaded over 10 rds, at this point, but zero issues. I was getting a lot of lead on the flash hider, but have backed the loads off from 11.5 to 10.6 gr of A1680 MUCH cleaner (haven't actually looked) but no silver flash hider. |
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Posted: 3/24/2016 5:38:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SigJoe]
[#14]
Has anyone tested the new Hornady 208 ELD's (the Amax replacement)? I just loaded up a batch based loosely off my 208 Amax loads. I loaded 10.9gn of 1680 and seated to 2.165. Curious if anyone has tried these yet and what your results where?
It is a very good looking bullet and is more consistent over the Amax when it come to seating. 
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Posted: 3/28/2016 9:44:00 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: No feed ramp mods. (or any mods) Im loading the OAL of 2.120" -0/+.005" I have only tried the p-mag G3, 20rd mags. I also haven't loaded over 10 rds, at this point, but zero issues. I was getting a lot of lead on the flash hider, but have backed the loads off from 11.5 to 10.6 gr of A1680 MUCH cleaner (haven't actually looked) but no silver flash hider. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: Originally Posted By out-a-ammo: Originally Posted By mybronco2: Made it back to the range on sat to do more shooting /testing of the MBC 245gr Hi-Tek coated bullets. Shot 25 rounds with 10.6gr of A1680. Averaging 1039 fps 16 SD. Also shot up the last of some other loads, working around this same load. The range was very active and brass was flying! On a aprox 50 foot bench, there was 10 of us and 9 were shooting AR's, and everyone seamed to be using comps With each shot, I could see my target moving in the 3x scope, so wasn't expecting much and was more interested in measuring the FPS, but all were in a 3" group with 100% feed and function, and bolt hold opened, so very happy with that. What OAL are you using when seating those bullets and did you do any modifications to the feed ramps. No feed ramp mods. (or any mods) Im loading the OAL of 2.120" -0/+.005" I have only tried the p-mag G3, 20rd mags. I also haven't loaded over 10 rds, at this point, but zero issues. I was getting a lot of lead on the flash hider, but have backed the loads off from 11.5 to 10.6 gr of A1680 MUCH cleaner (haven't actually looked) but no silver flash hider. Thank you, I just got some of those bullets and I have some A1680 that I want to try out of my 9" AR pistol. I have 10, 20, and 30 rnd P-mags to try them in. |
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Posted: 3/29/2016 12:41:15 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By out-a-ammo:
Thank you, I just got some of those bullets and I have some A1680 that I want to try out of my 9" AR pistol. I have 10, 20, and 30 rnd P-mags to try them in. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By out-a-ammo:
Originally Posted By mybronco2:
Originally Posted By out-a-ammo:
Originally Posted By mybronco2:
Made it back to the range on sat to do more shooting /testing of the MBC 245gr Hi-Tek coated bullets. Shot 25 rounds with 10.6gr of A1680. Averaging 1039 fps 16 SD. Also shot up the last of some other loads, working around this same load. The range was very active and brass was flying! On a aprox 50 foot bench, there was 10 of us and 9 were shooting AR's, and everyone seamed to be using comps With each shot, I could see my target moving in the 3x scope, so wasn't expecting much and was more interested in measuring the FPS, but all were in a 3" group with 100% feed and function, and bolt hold opened, so very happy with that.
What OAL are you using when seating those bullets and did you do any modifications to the feed ramps. No feed ramp mods. (or any mods) Im loading the OAL of 2.120" -0/+.005" I have only tried the p-mag G3, 20rd mags. I also haven't loaded over 10 rds, at this point, but zero issues. I was getting a lot of lead on the flash hider, but have backed the loads off from 11.5 to 10.6 gr of A1680 MUCH cleaner (haven't actually looked) but no silver flash hider. Thank you, I just got some of those bullets and I have some A1680 that I want to try out of my 9" AR pistol. I have 10, 20, and 30 rnd P-mags to try them in. Your welcome. Im shooting in a 14.5" barrel, so with a 9" your going to want to work DOWN. I started at 11.5 gr. and they were quieter that Supers, but I guess not sub, or right on the line. I also noticed that the last shot in a mag was much quieter, not having the bolt slamming closed, and Im running without a can. I explained it to a co-worker as a cross between a AR and a Red Rider BB gun. LOVE IT! may be my favorite rifle EVER. Im going to have to shoot a cinder block and see what it does...  ...my guess....sand
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Posted: 3/29/2016 3:10:04 PM EDT
[#17]
I have read a good number of these pages but have a few questions and hope this thread is right place for them. I have a Lee classic turret press and Lee auto disk. I will be getting a 16.5" 1/7 twist Remington 300blk bolt gun for nothing more than suppressed plinking on steel out to 200 yards. No hunting.
I have plenty of wolf gold 223 brass if I want to form and will get a few boxes of Remington UMC ammo for the brass as well. I also have CCI 400 SPP. My question is what powder and bullet would be good places to start for subsonic bolt use with reasonable accuracy. The rounds would only be used in the bolt action and so much I have read is mixed semi/bolt or just semi use. Was looking at the 208gr Hornady BTHP but not set in stone. Saw one or two people reporting use of the 150gr plated xtreme bullets. I do not want to shoot lead rounds with my sealed can. Thank you |
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Posted: 3/30/2016 10:41:18 AM EDT
[#18]
With that faster 1/7 twist you'll be able to easily use up to 220gr bullets for your subs
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Posted: 3/30/2016 11:11:00 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RANGER_556:
With that faster 1/7 twist you'll be able to easily use up to 220gr bullets for your subs Yeah I'm looking at the 208gr hornady to save a little over the 220 smk. Seems many use H110 and the load book says small magnum rifle primers. Would anyone confirm if they use H110 in a 300blk bolt gun with either 208 or 220? Thanks again |
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Posted: 3/30/2016 1:44:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WillysJeep:
I have read a good number of these pages but have a few questions and hope this thread is right place for them. I have a Lee classic turret press and Lee auto disk. I will be getting a 16.5" 1/7 twist Remington 300blk bolt gun for nothing more than suppressed plinking on steel out to 200 yards. No hunting. I have plenty of wolf gold 223 brass if I want to form and will get a few boxes of Remington UMC ammo for the brass as well. I also have CCI 400 SPP. My question is what powder and bullet would be good places to start for subsonic bolt use with reasonable accuracy. The rounds would only be used in the bolt action and so much I have read is mixed semi/bolt or just semi use. Was looking at the 208gr Hornady BTHP but not set in stone. Saw one or two people reporting use of the 150gr plated xtreme bullets. I do not want to shoot lead rounds with my sealed can. Thank you Some other options: KSS 215 gn Leatherhead Palmetto Projectiles MBC More and more casting companies are adding coated projectiles which are much cheaper than FMJ. |
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Posted: 3/30/2016 2:03:05 PM EDT
[#21]
I picked up several boxes of .300 Whisper 220gr from Black Hills the other day. I should be able to test them out this coming weekend, and I'll report back.
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Posted: 3/30/2016 11:20:07 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WillysJeep:
Yeah I'm looking at the 208gr hornady to save a little over the 220 smk. Seems many use H110 and the load book says small magnum rifle primers. Would anyone confirm if they use H110 in a 300blk bolt gun with either 208 or 220? Thanks again Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By WillysJeep:
Originally Posted By RANGER_556:
With that faster 1/7 twist you'll be able to easily use up to 220gr bullets for your subs Yeah I'm looking at the 208gr hornady to save a little over the 220 smk. Seems many use H110 and the load book says small magnum rifle primers. Would anyone confirm if they use H110 in a 300blk bolt gun with either 208 or 220? Thanks again I've used W296 (H110) for both but had erratic results. I'd recommend A1680 for heavy subs. I wouldn't fear using coated lead bullets like the Palmetto Projectiles through a sealed can. I've fired them extensively through my 9 mm Octane and I've never found anything but powder fouling in the baffles. Thus I shoot them through my sealed can on my AR with no worries. |
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Posted: 4/2/2016 12:02:03 PM EDT
[#23]
I just picked up a few hundred m80 pulls. Does anybody have a good plinking load for these?
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Posted: 4/2/2016 11:03:12 PM EDT
[#24]
Looking for a load for some 180's I want to run as sub's. If I could do it with lil gun even better lol
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Posted: 4/2/2016 11:21:42 PM EDT
[#25]
I could be wrong, but I think if you want the load to cycle, you need at least a 200 gr bullet.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 4/3/2016 12:00:49 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 9mmprn:
I noticed something while trimming some "processed" brass I purchased. Much of the brass had very tight case mouths and would not fit over the 30 caliber pilot of my trim pro (I used a 28 pilot ). Later I checked the cases against a Ballstic Tools case mouth gauge and was averaging between 0.299 and .302.
Also worthy of mentioning... In a previous post I mentioned how I needed to resize some no go cases from the same lot of "processed" brass. Those now have a case mouth diameter of around .303 to .304ish on my mic (loose at the .302 line on my gauge I could possibly with minimal force push it over the line but obviously would rather not). Wish I'd read these 93 pages a month ago! I purchased two 100-rd bags of 300 BO brass to get a "head start" on my 1st 300 BO reloading. Both bags were supposed to be unprimed; received one bag unprimed, one bag primed. Typical of the unprimed: 
No neck expansion -- .301.-302. Very few cut straight And 46 out of 100 shorter than SAAMI min. length! (1.348") Not just a little below 1.348" -- many down to as low as 1.335". Lengths all over the place -- 20 over 1.360", 34 between 1.348-1.359". Shoulders not well formed, etc. I resized and trimmed as needed the >1.348 half. Not sure what to do with the <1.348 half. The real problem is how to expand the necks of the primed cases -- my Dillon 300 sizing die neck expander ball is integrated with the de-cap pin. Oh well, lesson learned, and it motivated me to learn how to make my own. 
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Posted: 4/3/2016 12:13:38 AM EDT
[#27]
You can resize and knock out the primer, then reprime after sizing.
Slow and steady and wear eye protection. |
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Posted: 4/3/2016 1:37:43 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
You can resize and knock out the primer, then reprime after sizing. Slow and steady and wear eye protection. I wear ear pro too, I have read here that just a primer going off is very loud. |
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Posted: 4/3/2016 5:40:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ws-6]
[#29]
just want to doublecheck something so feedback would be appreciated
got a new bullets in (Palmetto 203gr coated) to load so I decided rework up my 208gr amax load also because I didn't really like it. 208 amax so for coal I came up with 2.225 and for ogive measure I got 1.491 (using hornady set with 8-30 insert). most printed or forum stuff I see is 2.250 (which seems to long for mag) or 2.120. 
you need to look at the front edge of the line since I used my calibers to make it the round will not fit in my sheridan gauge but then again IIRC that is normal for subs. it will chamber in my gun (noveske barrel) and I don't see marks from rifling on the bullet. 203gr coated this one wasn't too different, I came up with 1.960 but Palmetto said 1.950 
I didn't try to chamber this yet because I am waiting on my FCD to be able to remove the belling on the case. thought I had 1 but couldn't find it or a receipt for it
per the photo's, do both look right? or should I bump them back a little farther? |
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Posted: 4/3/2016 6:16:34 PM EDT
[#30]
I've been looking for lighter weight bullets for supers, and the jacketed bullets I can find are kinda expensive, especially for plinking applications. They also tend to be out of stock a lot, which means they're popular, but makes 'em hard to purchase. And while I've gotten 110 grain round nose bullets intended for .30 Carbine to cycle nicely, it took some COAL tweaking, which I'm not keen to do on a regular basis. So I started wondering about cast bullets.
I found a couple different designs at NOE Bullets that looked promising. First was a spire point, gas check design that's about 127 grains. Here's the picture from their site: 
I also looked at this one, a 130 grain round nose, boat tail design (these molds are out of stock at the moment): 
My thought would be to cast these (probably using the .309 diameter molds), powder coat them, and size to .309. I'll point out that I have zero experience with bullet casting at the moment, but I have a LOT of experience fruitlessly searching for manufactured cast .308-.311 bullets under about 150 grains. Does anyone have any experience with coated/checked/lubed/whatever lightweight (125-135 grain) cast bullets in 300 Blackout? Do they work well enough for me to dive into bullet casting? Or should I go with the available cast 150± grain bullets for plinking and practice? |
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Posted: 4/3/2016 9:05:49 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SigJoe:
Has anyone tested the new Hornady 208 ELD's (the Amax replacement)? I just loaded up a batch based loosely off my 208 Amax loads. I loaded 10.9gn of 1680 and seated to 2.165. Curious if anyone has tried these yet and what your results where? It is a very good looking bullet and is more consistent over the Amax when it come to seating. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a117/600RRJOE/Mobile%20Uploads/AA1201F9-14FF-44D5-85F0-197A72AD7017.jpg I just shot my first batch of these and managed fist size groups at 100 yards. I thought they were fairly quiet and very close in sound to my 10.7 gn Amax load. Like I said I'm really impressed with this bullet and can't wait to try them in 168 grain my 308. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 4/3/2016 9:29:55 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I've been looking for lighter weight bullets for supers, and the jacketed bullets I can find are kinda expensive, especially for plinking applications. They also tend to be out of stock a lot, which means they're popular, but makes 'em hard to purchase. And while I've gotten 110 grain round nose bullets intended for .30 Carbine to cycle nicely, it took some COAL tweaking, which I'm not keen to do on a regular basis. So I started wondering about cast bullets. I found a couple different designs at NOE Bullets that looked promising. First was a spire point, gas check design that's about 127 grains. Here's the picture from their site: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/images/N.O.E._Bullet_Moulds_311_127Gr._PT_GC.Jpg I also looked at this one, a 130 grain round nose, boat tail design (these molds are out of stock at the moment): http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/images/N.O.E._Bullet_Moulds_308_130Gr._RN_BT.Jpg My thought would be to cast these (probably using the .309 diameter molds), powder coat them, and size to .309. I'll point out that I have zero experience with bullet casting at the moment, but I have a LOT of experience fruitlessly searching for manufactured cast .308-.311 bullets under about 150 grains. Does anyone have any experience with coated/checked/lubed/whatever lightweight (125-135 grain) cast bullets in 300 Blackout? Do they work well enough for me to dive into bullet casting? Or should I go with the available cast 150± grain bullets for plinking and practice? If you do cast your own, go with the GC version. I shot 3k plus of a light super PC lead that just fouled my bolt and gas system with lead. I had to push them faster than they wanted to get them to be remotely accurate. The Highborn Outdoors 120 grain plated are promising. I shot a .184" group at 25 yds on my first workup outing. Speeds from 1650 to 2000 with no problems. Still working, but I am hopeful. |
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Posted: 4/3/2016 9:37:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By snowshooter:
The Highborn Outdoors 120 grain plated are promising. I shot a .184" group at 25 yds on my first workup outing. Speeds from 1650 to 2000 with no problems. Still working, but I am hopeful. Well I think you've given me a better alternative than gearing up to cast, including a longish learning curve. Those Highborn bullets look like a great choice. Thanks! |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 9:50:41 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brouhaha:
I picked up several boxes of .300 Whisper 220gr from Black Hills the other day. I should be able to test them out this coming weekend, and I'll report back. I went to the range with these yesterday. It was the first time I've had the chance to shoot my .300 at distances over 25 yards. I did a prelim sight-in at 50 so I'd be on paper at 100. At 50yds, I was getting 3/4" groups. I moved out to 100, and quickly realized that my 3x compact ACOG just wasn't up to the task of achieving highly accurate groups. I could only manage 2-3" groups. I did notice that these seemed to be quite a bit quieter through my Sandman -S than the Remington subs I had been shooting. I plan on going back with a new scope. Which brings me to... Can anybody recommend a decent, non-wallet-destroying scope that has the BDC for both supers and subs? |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 11:54:03 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By snowshooter:
The Highborn Outdoors 120 grain plated are promising. I shot a .184" group at 25 yds on my first workup outing. Speeds from 1650 to 2000 with no problems. Still working, but I am hopeful. Never heard of them before, thanks. Also, would you be willing to share your load data? |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 4/4/2016 5:02:12 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vegitan:
Never heard of them before, thanks. Also, would you be willing to share your load data? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Vegitan:
Originally Posted By snowshooter:
The Highborn Outdoors 120 grain plated are promising. I shot a .184" group at 25 yds on my first workup outing. Speeds from 1650 to 2000 with no problems. Still working, but I am hopeful. Never heard of them before, thanks. Also, would you be willing to share your load data? I will, let me run one more workup session to get closer. I based my workup on 125 gr Nosler data for charges and staying below 2000 fps. OAL@ 1.900 for magazine bump compatibility. Feeds fine for me. |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 8:55:25 PM EDT
[#37]
I have been looking, but with crappy internet today Im not finding.
Im looking for the list of good/ bad brass to convert to 300 Blk. Anyone have it handy? I thought I saved it in favorites....guess not 
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Posted: 4/4/2016 9:20:53 PM EDT
[#38]
ok question about cast bullets from someone who has never used any.
the bullets I got (Palmetto 203gt coated) measure around .309 out of the bag. my cases are unfired since formed (I bought preformed cases from a vendor). I am using a hornady expander that came in my 9mm die set to flare the cases (die says 9mm-380 on it). I am able to flare enough that I am not scraping any of the coating off when I press the bullet in. I seated a bullet and then used a kinetic hammer to pull it (didn't crimp the case yet). after I pull the bullet it now measures .308 is this fine or do I need to do something to my case necks to expand them also? unflared case neck diameter is .326 flared case neck diameter is .335 |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 9:44:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GHPorter]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
I have been looking, but with crappy internet today Im not finding. Im looking for the list of good/ bad brass to convert to 300 Blk. Anyone have it handy? I thought I saved it in favorites....guess not Take it with a large grain of salt. "The list" (posted on the 300blktalk forum) is only useful as anecdotal information; it's not at all organized, and it's quite inconsistent in what it reports - you'll see the same headstamp shown in multiple lists as good, bad, or ?. I've converted cases that "the list" says are bad, but wound up with perfectly fine brass, and I'm not the only one here who's done so. Note that the list has NO reporting of how brass was converted. Was it chopped then annealed, or just formed? Was it formed on a Dillon with their 1500 trimmer - which can lead to issues with neck thickness by itself? What dies, press, and lube were used? There are far too many variables for "the list" to be more than just a list. Edit to fix the tag... |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 9:45:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
I have been looking, but with crappy internet today Im not finding. Im looking for the list of good/ bad brass to convert to 300 Blk. Anyone have it handy? I thought I saved it in favorites....guess not http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=88599 Be warned a lot of people say this list is useless because some of the data contradicts itself. I tend to use the list as a way to sort out one specific brand (ie, LC) and then that's all I convert. Edit: I see I was beat to the punch. I will also add to the explanation above that most calipers are only really accurate to 0.002" (listed as +/- 0.001" even expensive mitutoyo digitals) and that is what most people use for determining the neck thickness (note the significant figures reported). If the list was really accurate we would see data to at least 4 decimal points indicating a tube micrometer was used. I still use the list to sort out stuff that has a high likelihood of not working. |
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Posted: 4/4/2016 11:08:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2: I have been looking, but with crappy internet today Im not finding. Im looking for the list of good/ bad brass to convert to 300 Blk. Anyone have it handy? I thought I saved it in favorites....guess not But I have never come across TAA. I have converted, Win, RP, PMC, S&B, LC cross and no cross, WCC, and Hornady to 300 blk. I won't bother with soft FC brass, I trade/sell if off. americ is junk in all calibers, so add that one to my list. FNM and PMP are heavy cases. 105 grs compaired to 92-95 gr Win LC, ect in the above list. I don't convert those either, used in 223 loads. Please note that I anneal the cases before forming the shoulder. Very important with cases formed from split neck 223 brass. edit, Pic removed. Note, I will break the link to this pic tomorrow. It gets stolen a lot. |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 12:15:55 AM EDT
[#42]
Are you guys that are reforming brass, keeping it all sorted by headstamp"?
Im starting to rethink the whole range pickup gets reformed thing.
If Im going to end up with 50 cases in a box, and 10 boxes, just to have 500 cases, Im really not seeing the point. Reading "The List", and I know its only a guide AT BEST, its sounding like if they measure under .012" its GTG doesn't sound right to me at all. If you guys are mixing the headstamps after they are formed, and have 1 big box, it may be worth it. I was just after say...1000 cases to get started. Not 72 or this and 105 of that, etc. 
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Posted: 4/5/2016 12:32:35 AM EDT
[#43]
The only thing I use my mixed headstamp cases for are plinking loads with 147 gr FMJ's.
Accuracy loads are matched headstamped lots. Everyone has their own standards and I have lots of brass, so I can afford to be picky. |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 12:32:47 AM EDT
[#44]
Thank you Dryflash for your input.
I have followed your steps all they way, and toss in a few steps for....fun
Chop (portaband in vise) clean up cut "Low Budget Anneal" primer pocket uniform (and ream if needed) Sonic clean/dry lube reform final trim Sonic clean/dry |
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Posted: 4/5/2016 12:47:00 AM EDT
[#45]
Thank you again.
At this point all my blackout loads are plinking loads. 245gr MBC I picked up 200 New Gemtech annealed cases for my Barnes loads and starting to think I will be picking up ALOT more of them... Reforming and having a large number of the same cases I don't see happening any time soon. I have a bunch of smaller bags of LC from different years, some once fired, some not, some nata, some not. Guess I will mix them up really good and have a box of brass to reform and stop trying so hard. It would be easy to make a non-matching headstamp box...
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Posted: 4/5/2016 8:25:09 AM EDT
[#46]
All LC is an ok batch, mixed years is fine.
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Posted: 4/5/2016 8:25:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#47]
double post
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Posted: 4/5/2016 9:13:30 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
All LC is an ok batch, mixed years is fine. Ditto. I keep the commercial headstamps separated from each other and from the GI headstamps. These steps seem to give me more consistent brass, and (I hope) more consistent loads. But... I usually chop then anneal cases in a big batch, and I don't care what headstamps are included. AFTER THAT, I separate headstamps and form the brass. I don't know that it was necessary to sort by headstamp before forming the brass, but it hasn't hurt. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 4/8/2016 2:14:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rocketrepairguy]
[#49]
Found a good functioning load in my 10.5 inch barreled, pistol gas length SBR... Functions great w bolt hold back, both suppressed & unsuppressed.
Lake City 11 brass trimmed - 1.358. Hornady 208 grain Amax COL of 2.250. Winchester small rifle primer and 10.7 Grains AA 5744. 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/9/2016 7:06:19 AM EDT
[#50]
has anyone tried running black powder in your 300blk and does it cycle i dont think so but it would be interesting to see
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