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Posted: 6/8/2014 9:11:09 AM EDT
[#1]
Has anyone had issues with the case necks from factory Remington 220gr subsonic ammo splitting/cracking? This ammo was new right out of the box and I had maybe 1/4 of my cases show splits in the neck. What gives? Weak brass or a chamber issue with my rifle? Non of my cropped and sized Federal brass has done this in 2-3 firings.
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Posted: 6/8/2014 8:59:21 PM EDT
[#2]
1) Caliber
- 300 AAC Blackout 2) Case manufacturer - Mixed 3) Case length - 1.365 4) Bullet manufacturer - Hornady 5) Bullet weight and type - 150 GR BTSP #3033 6) Powder type - W296 7) Powder charge weight - 17gr 8) OAL - 2.110 9) Primer - CCI 450 10) Firearm tested in - AR15 Pistol 8 in barrel 11) Chrono data (Avg, ES, SD) - 1810 avg, 44ES, 28, SD |
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Posted: 6/8/2014 9:55:53 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delirious1: Thanks for this info. At 50 yards. I put 4 in a dime sized area at 50 yards with the 20 grains H110 and the Barnes TAC-TX. I found my load! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delirious1: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By delirious1: Just got some Barnes 110 tac-tx black tips in the mail. Was going to start at 18.6 and work up. Anyone have an h110 favorite load? I started at 18.0 and went up to 20.5 grs. (no pressure signs) 20.0 was the most accurate for me. I was using reformed RP 223 brass, Win SR, and an OAL of 2.250. 16 inch barrel. Good luck Thanks for this info. At 50 yards. I put 4 in a dime sized area at 50 yards with the 20 grains H110 and the Barnes TAC-TX. I found my load! |
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Posted: 6/9/2014 10:58:37 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 88_Sahara:
Has anyone had issues with the case necks from factory Remington 220gr subsonic ammo splitting/cracking? This ammo was new right out of the box and I had maybe 1/4 of my cases show splits in the neck. What gives? Weak brass or a chamber issue with my rifle? Non of my cropped and sized Federal brass has done this in 2-3 firings. I shot a little bit of that stuff with no issues. |
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Posted: 6/14/2014 10:59:53 PM EDT
[#5]
I am sure this was covered somewhere in this thread, I just haven't been able to find it. Is it necessary to anneal your cases when using a Lee FCD?
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Posted: 6/14/2014 11:01:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Most guys anneal their brass.
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Posted: 6/14/2014 11:06:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 50ttop: I am sure this was covered somewhere in this thread, I just haven't been able to find it. Is it necessary to anneal your cases when using a Lee FCD? But the FCD can be used with or without annealing.
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Posted: 6/22/2014 6:18:35 PM EDT
[#8]
Seeing some load data popping up using Hodgdon H4198 for subs. Anybody try this?
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ME, USA
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Posted: 6/24/2014 12:01:55 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Delbaeth:
Seeing some load data popping up using Hodgdon H4198 for subs. Anybody try this? Yes! I tried the 220 gr Speer with the 11.5 grains of H4198 unsuppressed would not reliably cycle my PSA 16" upper with pistol length gas tube. It was about 1 out of three rounds would not completely cycle. The loads for the 180 gr spitzer lead nose bullets says to use 15.5 grains of H4198 worked great unsurppressed. That's my story. -stedy |
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Posted: 6/28/2014 4:40:30 PM EDT
[#10]
I have dies on the way, I have a Harbor Freight chop saw with a 300 BLK cutting jig, and I have a pile of 5.56mm cases ready to convert. I'm still trying to figure out what barrel length (and thus which barrel) to get, but I'm on track to building my upper soon. Thanks, dryflash, for your post from February with a photo of your conversion process - even with my thick skull, I can follow that! I have to order Tempilaq now, but that's a minor thing...
So after going through most of this thread, and paying fairly close attention for what I was looking for, I haven't found a particular item: What cartridge gage do folks recommend for 300 BLK? Sheridan's seem to be pretty darn cool, but I can't find any mention of what they're made of, so I can't tell if they're easier to maintain than say an L.E. Wilson gage. Does anyone make one in stainless, and if so is it a good value? One more thing: I have a butt-load of .30 carbine 110gr bullets sitting around, but all the load data I've found for that bullet weight has been for spitzer bullets. Can anyone point to data for 110gr round nose bullets? |
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Posted: 6/28/2014 7:26:20 PM EDT
[#11]
I also got to thinking about 150 grain round nose bullets that are used in 30-30. These might work well at blackout velocities? Or would it not fit in the magazine properly?
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 6/28/2014 7:58:07 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I have dies on the way, I have a Harbor Freight chop saw with a 300 BLK cutting jig, and I have a pile of 5.56mm cases ready to convert. I'm still trying to figure out what barrel length (and thus which barrel) to get, but I'm on track to building my upper soon. Thanks, dryflash, for your post from February with a photo of your conversion process - even with my thick skull, I can follow that! I have to order Tempilaq now, but that's a minor thing... So after going through most of this thread, and paying fairly close attention for what I was looking for, I haven't found a particular item: What cartridge gage do folks recommend for 300 BLK? Sheridan's seem to be pretty darn cool, but I can't find any mention of what they're made of, so I can't tell if they're easier to maintain than say an L.E. Wilson gage. Does anyone make one in stainless, and if so is it a good value? One more thing: I have a butt-load of .30 carbine 110gr bullets sitting around, but all the load data I've found for that bullet weight has been for spitzer bullets. Can anyone point to data for 110gr round nose bullets? I use the Sheridan cut out one which is great. I also have the LE Wilson. They look like the same metal, but the Sheridan shows no signs of rust. So, to answer your question, no I don't think the Sheridan is as hard to maintain as the Wilson, although with a little rust prevention every now and then, I don't find Wilson's hard to maintain either. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 6/28/2014 10:52:32 PM EDT
[#13]
How are you all annealing newly formed 300BLK cases?
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Posted: 6/28/2014 10:57:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: I have dies on the way, I have a Harbor Freight chop saw with a 300 BLK cutting jig, and I have a pile of 5.56mm cases ready to convert. I'm still trying to figure out what barrel length (and thus which barrel) to get, but I'm on track to building my upper soon. Thanks, dryflash, for your post from February with a photo of your conversion process - even with my thick skull, I can follow that! I have to order Tempilaq now, but that's a minor thing... So after going through most of this thread, and paying fairly close attention for what I was looking for, I haven't found a particular item: What cartridge gage do folks recommend for 300 BLK? Sheridan's seem to be pretty darn cool, but I can't find any mention of what they're made of, so I can't tell if they're easier to maintain than say an L.E. Wilson gage. Does anyone make one in stainless, and if so is it a good value? One more thing: I have a butt-load of .30 carbine 110gr bullets sitting around, but all the load data I've found for that bullet weight has been for spitzer bullets. Can anyone point to data for 110gr round nose bullets? Later on I got the Hornady headspace gauge. This works for almost all calibers (comes with 5 bushings) and I would suggest this tool that mounts to your calipers. The 110 gr RN bullet meant for 30 Carbine is my one failure in the 300 blk caliber. The OAL is too short to feed. The 1st round will feed using the bolt release and the round will fire fine, the next round will dive and jam. As long as you want to single feed, you could use this bullet. I shot 10 of the box in the pic and pulled the rest. The 150 gr RN bullet meant for the 30-30, loads, feeds and fires fine. No problem with the RN, I have also loaded and fired 180 gr RN's without issues. Set your OAL per my first post in this thread on page 1.
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Posted: 6/28/2014 11:06:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 545Fan: How are you all annealing newly formed 300BLK cases?  Tempilaq (750) inside the case neck melts when correct temp is reached. Little blue blob inside case neck. When it melts drop case into a metal pan to cool. Dropping in water does nothing but add drying time.  If you don't use Tempilaq you will over heat your brass. Voice of experience talking here. |
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Posted: 6/29/2014 9:18:40 AM EDT
[#16]
So how bad is it if you overheat your brass? Does it soften it up too much? Can you re-harden it by working it in a sizing die? Or, is it just hosed and your best bet is to start over with new brass?
Just saying because I did all of mine without Tempilaq... just wanting to see how badly I'm stuck as I'm not sure what the temp of mine was. Mine look more like typical 5.56 ammo from LC or something as far as the coloring on the case necks, fwiw. |
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Posted: 6/29/2014 11:38:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt: So how bad is it if you overheat your brass? Does it soften it up too much? Can you re-harden it by working it in a sizing die? Or, is it just hosed and your best bet is to start over with new brass? Just saying because I did all of mine without Tempilaq... just wanting to see how badly I'm stuck as I'm not sure what the temp of mine was. Mine look more like typical 5.56 ammo from LC or something as far as the coloring on the case necks, fwiw.  That's a RP factory round surrounded by my annealed cases. |
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Posted: 6/29/2014 11:42:10 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
I formed cases and loaded rounds before I had my blackout built. I used a Wilson gauge. All my loads chambered and fired flawlessly when I got the rifle built. Later on I got the Hornady headspace gauge. This works for almost all calibers (comes with 5 bushings) and I would suggest this tool that mounts to your calipers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gage-5-bushing-set-with-comparator <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/300%20Blk/PA070243.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/PA070243.jpg</a> The 110 gr RN bullet meant for 30 Carbine is my one failure in the 300 blk caliber. The OAL is too short to feed. The 1st round will feed using the bolt release and the round will fire fine, the next round will dive and jam. As long as you want to single feed, you could use this bullet. I shot 10 of the box in the pic and pulled the rest. The 150 gr RN bullet meant for the 30-30, loads, feeds and fires fine. No problem with the RN, I have also loaded and fired 180 gr RN's without issues. Set your OAL per my first post in this thread on page 1. Thanks, dryflash3. The Hornady tool looks like a winner. Since 300 BLK's datum diameter is 0.3512, I'd use the 0.350 bushing, right? And the headspace dimension is 1.1021" if I read the SAAMI diagram correctly, so anything from about 1.09" to 1.10" would be within spec. Great. I may get a Wilson gage as well, for "drop in" QC, but setting the dies is the biggest issue and I guess I'm sticking with Big Red. 
While I'm slightly bummed that my 110gr RN bullets are too short, I think I'll live over it. There are so many other light-weight .308s around to choose from, and I can keep the RNs I have for my M1 Carbine. |
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Posted: 6/29/2014 11:55:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#19]
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Posted: 6/30/2014 7:23:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rob99rt]
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Gonna have to give you the depends answer. How much over heated? If you softened the web, case is trash. That's a RP factory round surrounded by my annealed cases. Please forgive my ignorance again.. I googled and didn't see any helpful results to explain what the "web" of the case is. Do you mean the brass itself overall or a specific part of the case, such as the transition area from the neck to the main part of the case? Eta: how can I tell if I softened it too much? Lack of neck tension? Thanks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 6/30/2014 10:28:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt: Please forgive my ignorance again.. I googled and didn't see any helpful results to explain what the "web" of the case is. Do you mean the brass itself overall or a specific part of the case, such as the transition area from the neck to the main part of the case? Eta: how can I tell if I softened it too much? Lack of neck tension? Thanks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rob99rt: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Gonna have to give you the depends answer. How much over heated? If you softened the web, case is trash. That's a RP factory round surrounded by my annealed cases. Please forgive my ignorance again.. I googled and didn't see any helpful results to explain what the "web" of the case is. Do you mean the brass itself overall or a specific part of the case, such as the transition area from the neck to the main part of the case? Eta: how can I tell if I softened it too much? Lack of neck tension? Thanks. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile The web is the part of the case that surrounds the primer. Look at the pic I posted, how do your cases compare? Look at factory rounds that are annealed, these will be the military loads. No pics of your cases....no way to tell you. If you need help posting pics, it's explained up in FAQ's. eta, from the SAAMI website; WEB = The solid portion of a brass centerfire cartridge case between the inside of the case at the head and the bottom of the primer pocket.</dd> |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 7/1/2014 1:28:59 AM EDT
[#22]
I just ordered the last NOE 311 247gr 5 bullet mold that NOE had in stock.
I've been wanting this mold for a long time. The 20% Fourth of July discount threw me over the edge. I can't wait to staaart casting these bullets. I had no luck with the Lee 230gr. bullets, they key holed like crazy. |
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Posted: 7/1/2014 5:52:01 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Posted Via AR15.Com MobileIf you have a reloading manual, look in the back for all of the reloading terms defined. The web is the part of the case that surrounds the primer. Look at the pic I posted, how do your cases compare? Look at factory rounds that are annealed, these will be the military loads. Thanks for the info. I didn't even think about looking in the reloading manual I've got. As far as my cases go, they all look very similar to the factory case you posted above. I heated then in a similar fashion as you did, but I used a deep well 10mm socket in instead of a 3/8", and I tried to keep the heat just at the neck area and dropped them in water just when they started to get some coloring just below the neck area. I didn't get them hot enough to anneal all the way into the primer pocket, that's for sure. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/1/2014 12:55:08 PM EDT
[#24]
I am going to pull some 7.62x54r bullets this weekend and load them up for .300 blk
See if I can get 16-17 grains of 4227 in there, and then take them to the range. Probably only have time to do 20. I will post results when I get this completed. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/5/2014 11:34:52 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 223Sauce:
I am going to pull some 7.62x54r bullets this weekend and load them up for .300 blk See if I can get 16-17 grains of 4227 in there, and then take them to the range. Probably only have time to do 20. I will post results when I get this completed. Isn't x54 .312? |
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Posted: 7/5/2014 4:45:58 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang:
Isn't x54 .312? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang:
Originally Posted By 223Sauce:
I am going to pull some 7.62x54r bullets this weekend and load them up for .300 blk See if I can get 16-17 grains of 4227 in there, and then take them to the range. Probably only have time to do 20. I will post results when I get this completed. Isn't x54 .312? Yes it is. |
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Posted: 7/5/2014 9:06:00 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Sheridan's seem to be pretty darn cool, but I can't find any mention of what they're made of, Both the standard and slotted versions of the Sheridan gauge are made of stainless steel. |
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Posted: 7/5/2014 9:38:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zapp:
Both the standard and slotted versions of the Sheridan gauge are made of stainless steel. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Zapp:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Sheridan's seem to be pretty darn cool, but I can't find any mention of what they're made of, Both the standard and slotted versions of the Sheridan gauge are made of stainless steel. Thanks. |
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Posted: 7/5/2014 11:20:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: mevertsen]
[#29]
I was just checking some lengths of the few pieces of brass I cut down. I have some pieces that are as short as 1.350" fresh cut. Will this be a problem for chambering. I was going to trim them down to an even length, but I could scrap the ones that are too short. I am sure what the trim to length is, but what is "too short."
Thanks |
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Posted: 7/6/2014 7:18:16 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mevertsen:
I was just checking some lengths of the few pieces of brass I cut down. I have some pieces that are as short as 1.350" fresh cut. Will this be a problem for chambering. I was going to trim them down to an even length, but I could scrap the ones that are too short. I am sure what the trim to length is, but what is "too short." Thanks 1.348 is minimum case length. 1.350 should be just fine. Check it after you fire it, though. I had a couple cases get shorter after the first firing... Thought that was really weird. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 7/6/2014 11:25:02 AM EDT
[#31]
I was thinking 1.355 for some reason. As for the second part. That makes sense because of case expansion during the first firing. That's why I was concerned about cutting them to short at first.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 7/6/2014 8:34:51 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mevertsen:
I was thinking 1.355 for some reason. As for the second part. That makes sense because of case expansion during the first firing. That's why I was concerned about cutting them to short at first. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Right, but they were still short after I resized them. I would have expected them to lengthen back out a bit, but they were still in the 1.34X range... I'd trimmed them to 1.355, (think that's what I have my WFT set to), and after firing/resizing, they'd lost almost a hundredth of an inch. Just thought it was strange. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/7/2014 1:25:48 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Yes it is. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By Freakigstang:
Originally Posted By 223Sauce:
I am going to pull some 7.62x54r bullets this weekend and load them up for .300 blk See if I can get 16-17 grains of 4227 in there, and then take them to the range. Probably only have time to do 20. I will post results when I get this completed. Isn't x54 .312? Yes it is. Got them pulled, but did not have time to get them loaded this weekend. I will check the diameter on them, but I am sure they are .310-312 I have loaded .310 with no problems so far. |
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Posted: 7/11/2014 8:13:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Does anyone have a load using Accurate 5744? Found some at the LGS today. Just need a case gauge and some bullets and my 10.2" pistol upper will be ready to hit the range. I am going to start with a 168g SMK unless anyone has a better/cheaper starting point. No 7.62 suppressor so supers are fine with me.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 7/12/2014 5:46:09 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang:
Isn't x54 .312? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang:
Originally Posted By 223Sauce:
I am going to pull some 7.62x54r bullets this weekend and load them up for .300 blk See if I can get 16-17 grains of 4227 in there, and then take them to the range. Probably only have time to do 20. I will post results when I get this completed. Isn't x54 .312? yep. x54 and 7.62x39 bullets work great in 300blk. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 11:36:01 AM EDT
[#36]
Of course I decided to get into 300 at a seemingly terrible time. Does anyone have experience with the loads listed in the new Lyman AR loading book?
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Posted: 7/12/2014 3:05:19 PM EDT
[#37]
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/374940/lyman-ar-reloading-handbook-reloading-manual
Didn't know about this manual, will have to add it to my collection. Have you looked through the http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/385765_300_Blackout_Master_Thread.html ? What bullet, powder do you want info on? Now is a great time to get into 300 blk. Only thing still hard to find is powder, but that's improving. |
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Posted: 7/12/2014 3:13:10 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/374940/lyman-ar-reloading-handbook-reloading-manual Didn't know about this manual, will have to add it to my collection. Have you looked through the http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/385765_300_Blackout_Master_Thread.html ? What bullet, powder do you want info on? Now is a great time to get into 300 blk. Only thing still hard to find is powder, but that's improving. I have read through the thread and I have a few options for bullets since I load a number of other cartridges. My issue is powder I have some reloader 7 and h4891. I'm also curious using the missouri bullet cast bullet for some plinking. The Lyman ar book is another nice little tool with some good ar specific information in it.
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Posted: 7/12/2014 10:30:01 PM EDT
[#39]
Good luck finding some suitable powder. Watch the tacked thread and be ready to do some fast ordering.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2014 11:25:56 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TeeRex:
Of course I decided to get into 300 at a seemingly terrible time. Does anyone have experience with the loads listed in the new Lyman AR loading book? only experience I have is with IMR4227 and 150gr and 135gr SST's. nothing in sub yet. Or coarse I'll have to find powder for that... 
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Posted: 7/13/2014 10:40:03 PM EDT
[#41]
Nice of you to post all of that, but please no more. (leave what you posted)
Coc # 10 10) Copyrighted Material must be respected. If you wish to share an article from another site, it's important you post only a small excerpt of the content (less than 10%) with a link to the original. We will initially issue warnings, but repeat violations will result in your removal from the site. |
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Posted: 7/13/2014 10:58:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Easy_E]
[#42]
I ordered that lyman book and want to try rl7 . Before I get started has anyone tried it and had any luck ?
Edit to add that is rl7 ? |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 7/13/2014 11:13:25 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3:
Nice of you to post all of that, but please no more. (leave what you posted) Coc # 10 [div style='font-family: tahoma, arial; font-size: 10.909090995788574px;']10) Copyrighted Material must be respected. If you wish to share an article from another site, it's important you post only a small excerpt of the content (less than 10%) with a link to the original. We will initially issue warnings, but repeat violations will result in your removal from the site. sorry... missed that one. Was excited when I found it for lack of other published data out there |
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Posted: 7/14/2014 12:04:21 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang: sorry... missed that one. Was excited when I found it for lack of other published data out there Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Freakigstang: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Nice of you to post all of that, but please no more. (leave what you posted) Coc # 10 [div style='font-family: tahoma, arial; font-size: 10.909090995788574px;']10) Copyrighted Material must be respected. If you wish to share an article from another site, it's important you post only a small excerpt of the content (less than 10%) with a link to the original. We will initially issue warnings, but repeat violations will result in your removal from the site. sorry... missed that one. Was excited when I found it for lack of other published data out there |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2014 10:03:09 AM EDT
[#45]
Is there a way to post a excel spreadsheet here?
I have compiled 300blk loads from every source I could find (currently about 180 loads) into spreadsheets listed by bullet weights/manufacturer/powder types. It also has a couple of burn charts to help pick powders on the fly. I loaded it onto my smart phone so I can access it when I am out shopping and come across something new. I can email it to anyone if they want it. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2014 10:17:29 AM EDT
[#46]
You can post a link to a dropbox account or a Google Drive.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2014 10:20:40 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Easy_E:
I ordered that lyman book and want to try rl7 . Before I get started has anyone tried it and had any luck ? Edit to add that is rl7 ? Yes, Reloader 7 = RL7 = Rx7 = RX-7 = RE7. For some reason different authors label it differently. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 7/14/2014 10:55:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: badquaker]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AguasAg:
You can post a link to a dropbox account or a Google Drive. Let's see if this works......300blk spreadsheet ETA: standard disclaimers....work up your load...cross check with other references....not responsible for bonehead loading....blah blah blah....you know the routine. |
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Posted: 7/14/2014 11:59:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: doubleshot00]
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryOriginally Posted By badquaker:
Originally Posted By AguasAg:
You can post a link to a dropbox account or a Google Drive. Let's see if this works......300blk spreadsheet Mother of god!  Thanks
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Posted: 7/14/2014 12:33:10 PM EDT
[#50]
I just wish I could find some 1680 on the shelf somewhere. Anywhere.
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