The gun is a 1911 5" with reportedly 380 rounds on it. I'm currently in the process purchasing this gun 'used' (check is mailed). I hadn't noticed this in the pics until after agreeing to buy. I contacted the seller and they were forthcoming with additional pictures and their evaluation. This is a close 'hard fit' gun, if that has any bearing.

I'm not a gunsmith so your knowledgeable insight might be helpful before I make a mistake. So what is this issue, probable cause and what am I in for?
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Everything about the gun is aesthetically pleasing to my eye excepting this small detail.
I personally do not think that ding will affect anything with extracting or ejecting. What is your opinion?

Edited for clarity.

My guess would be contact with the barrel from letting the slide slam shut on an empty chamber

Yeah, peening from the corner of the barrel hood?

I haven't seen the barrel hood up close. I was told the barrel locked up fine. So I shouldn't expect any issues with it chambering, extracting & ejecting? It is a small dent I think and the closeup may have it appear worse than it actually is.

Some needle file and very gentle / careful Dremel work will fix if a problem develops.

I've been smithing 1911s for quite a few years and any time you see bare/disrupted metal on that area of the slide it means the barrel hood fitment wasn't preformed properly.
The last time I saw something similar to this was in a milspec SA that had a Wilson Combat match (not drop in) barrel installed that hadn't been properly fitted. The lock up areas on the hood of the barrel were minimally larger and hadn't been fitted to the slide.
My advice is when you receive the pistol, remove the slide, take the recoil spring, guide rod and plug from the slide. Reinstall the slide with the barrel, lock the barrel in with the slide stop through the barrel link and reinstall the barrel bushing.
Cock the hammer back and operated the slide slowly, fully rearward back to full lock up. You should feel a smooth lock up with very minimal hesitation (if any at all) and hear it click in. If you need to use more than a very slight push to get lock up, then there could possibly be issues with the barrel hood to slide fitment.
Inspect the barrel hood where it looks to have made previous contact with the slide. (see attached pic) If that area of the hood looks looks as though it had been peened or there is evidence of metal disruption then you need to find a gunsmith and have it fitted (which isn't hard to do). These types of issues don't "correct" themselves. This can cause poor/inconsistent accuracy as well as abnormal barrel and slide to frame wear.

Now, someone may have tried to install a non drop in barrel and shot a few rounds through it then reinstalled the factory or a drop in barrel. If this is the case you will not find any evidence of hood to slide contact on the barrel.
I would also suggest you get that metal spur removed from the slide.
Hope this helps.

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Thank you. Yes, this helps a lot. I've contacted the maker and sent them the pictures. They are a very well known semi-custom shop. I'm waiting to hear what they say. The factory dealer I purchased from is aware and is accommodating. They want my continued business.

The outside looked really great, until I noticed that ding in the breach area. I've already received the shipping notice this morning and will likely have it in hand in a few days. It was such a small detail, and I usually learn the hard way.

The dealer has said shoot it a few hundred rounds and if there was an issue afterwards he'd help take care of it up to a full refund. But, like you say this isn't correcting itself. I'll know more when I check the pistols lockup.

If you get the time, could you post an update after you receive the pistol?
Thanks

@tspike

I'll do that. I'm expecting to have the gun in hand soon. I will be able to work the action, test fire/ check accuracy as soon as by this weekend.

The builder hasn't specifically responded to my inquiry yet. The
seller said they would take care of it were it to be an issue.

Eta: this is one of the most expensive pistols I've ever purchased.

Great, looking forward to it!

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The barrel is the actual
fitted barrel because it is serialized to gun. I did not see any peening in the barrel hood area. This 1911 is the tightest gun I've ever field stripped. The spring plug was even tight and I had to push it out.  I think because some there are rough to the touch edges on the rear of dust cover.
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The gun locked up fine, I ran some inert snap caps through the action without any issues.

I will test fire this evening.

So who made it?  Did you get any discount?

I don't think it's a big deal, except maybe in context of perceived cost-for-brand ownership.  I have a few exceptionally nice guns from 'smiths no one has heard of.

For less than 500 rounds I would expect bluing rubbed off contact spots but not gouges in steel. I've seen worse in mass-produced factory pistols.

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The barrel hood looks good and the feed ramp looks good as well. Barrels are usually serialized after fitting and test firing, meaning I tend to believe the barrel you have isn't the first that was installed and test fired with this slide. Did you notice if the disrupted material on the slide was still there?
As far as the scratches on guide rod plug, this may be a result of the slide being fit (squeezed) for a tight fit to the frame. It's not uncommon to see this in mass produced 1911's but shouldn't happen with a custom build as they usually exibit higher attention to detail for a finished product.
I'm curious to know what mfg patrs they used in this build.

This came from ACWs shop, 'purchased second hand used'.
Their evaluation is that the ding could've resulted from an improper disassembly/ assembly. The barrel hood showed no peening from what I could tell. It's a rather small discrepancy, I think the photos really magnify it out of proportion.

I'm going to shoot it today, off-hand, next to another 5" Colt 1911 that I know is dead on accurate.

Honestly, this pistol is overall the tightest 1911 I've had experience with thus far. If it will shoot accurate without disturbing that area, I'm going to settle with it.
I'll run 3 factory FMJ ball loads through the barrel. Maybe a few JHP too.

Next time instead of saving a few hundred dollars I'll order new.
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I doubt it'll affect function with any or all ammo -- it's strictly cosmetic.

Cool, it's a really nice gun. I Posted a pic or two.

See quotes for responses. I'll post up a test target later today.

Thanks for all the replies!

50% IPSC Steel, 35 yards
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All @15 yards, all are 9 round topped off groups. 145 rounds Zero (0) malfunctions.
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I've done better. I can't call it the most accurate I've shot. I'll have to go at it again another day before I can call it. Honestly I wasn't breath taken by the accuracy.

I've got a couple of CCS guns that can do better.

Eta: I wasn't my best shot today, actually kinda sucked! I may drift the rear sight to the right a little. As you can see my tendency was left of center.

This is what I would do before drifting the sights. First check to ensure the sights are both dead center. Then mark the front and rear sights with a pencil to check for any movement when shooting. Using one box of good factory ammo, shoot the pistol off a bag/rest at 25yrds to get a consistant base line for point of aim vs point of impact. I'd try 3 strings of 5 shots using the same magazine to eliminate any variables and then if needed drift the rear.
If the sights moved while shooting (doubtful but not impossible) contact the mfg and see what they will do for you.

As far as the guide rod plug, I have always installed/removed them out the front of the slide, never rearward.

Don't get discouraged with the pistol, it may be something as simple as a different pound guide rod spring to get it tuned.