The GPS functionality of the Garmin Dash Cam 20 seems absolutely GTG.  Mine is in a carhauler that is basically a Peterbilt cab wrapped in a metal car nest.


-p.

Last I heard, 2 channel cams were still worse that getting 2 separate cams.  Have they gotten better over the last year?

I decided to bite the bullet and got a G1W-C.  Just received it.  Based on information on this thread I got a 32GB card instead of a 64GB and started running a few tests before doing the permanent install..

The manual sucks and I have a couple questions

1) what loop time do you recommend? 2, 3 or 5min

2) is it better to take photos and build a time-lapse video or the continuous video is better?

3) I noticed that if I turn the camera upside down the image in the display corrects for that and continues straight. However, the date and time not. Did anyone experimented if it works fine either way?

4) what software do you use/recommend to view and edit the videos in your PCs?

5) I initially mounted it low on the windshield and noticed it "killed" the GPS receiver close to it.  Moved it to the top and will test again tomorrow.  Anyone had similar experience?  It should not interfere with the GPS but...

6) any recommendations on exposure compensation or any other settings such as G sensor, etc.?


Thanks!

I can't answer all of these, but I think I can give you some advice.

1.  I use 3 minutes.  It shouldn't really matter though; it just depends on whether you'd prefer to sort through many short clips or fewer long ones.  Maybe that might depend on how long your drives tend to be.  I live in the city and most of my daily drives are a half hour, tops.  So I don't mind having more, shorter clips.

2.  Continuous video.  In fact, on the G1W series I don't even think there is an option for multiple high-speed photos - I'm pretty sure that the photo mode will literally only take a (single) photo if you press the button.  It's for taking pics of crash damage and stuff, not doing time-lapse.

3.  Don't know.

4.  Currently I just use VLC to view videos - the SD card just stores them as raw files and you can select them like you would any other video file..  If I was ever to need to edit anything major, I'd be looking at a program of some sort.  I figure I'l cross that bridge if I get there though.

5.  Don't know.  I have mine set up as high as possible, mostly hidden behind (from the driver's perspective) the rearview mirror.  Keeps it out of my vision, gives the best view of the road, and from the outside it blends in pretty well with the mirror and it's hard to tell there's something else there unless you look.  It's not a super obvious theft-magnet that way.

6.  I keep the G sensor off.  It's purpose is to hard save files when it feels a shock and keeps them from being overwritten.  But think about it - if there's an incident, you will be pulling that file down as soon as possible anyway and probably not using the camera again until you do, so there's really already no chance of it getting overwritten.  Keeping the sensor on just means that you will get a bunch of files of you going over bumps and potholes that it can't overwrite, and if you don't manage the card it can eventually fill up and force you to manually go in and delete all the chaff.  It's pretty pointless, IMO.

 As for other stuff:

Set it up so that it turns on when you turn the car on, and off when you turn the car off.  That means finding an ignition-only cig lighter, or hardwiring (which is the cleanest option).  Makes it a lot simpler than trying to remember to plug/unplug every time you drive.

I like to keep the screen on all the time, because it shows that it is on and recording, and I can make sure it didn't get bumped and is still facing the angle I want it to.  Since it's mostly obscured by the RV mirror, it's not distracting, even at night.  YMMV.

I bought a CPL filter for it, but no longer use it.  The nighttime quality suffered too much and I didn't want to add/remove it every time I was driving.  I don't use any other custom settings, except for making sure that the clips have a couple second overlap with each other (I forget what the setting is, but it's in there).  That just ensures that I'm not missing anything.

Thanks!

Interesting.  Maybe they updated the firmware and added this feature?  I'll check mine so we can compare.   I'm quite sure I saw something like photo interval and it offers three options.  If I'm not mistaken it starts at 2s, something around 5s and 10s.

I do not recall seeing any video overlap option.  I'll look again.

Placing the camera on the top windshield eliminated the interference with the GPS unit.  That shows a poor design.

I found a forum where they mention a wide behavior variation and some can freeze if we enable the screensaver while others are very finicky about the SD card brand.  I'm using a 32GB class 10 Kingston without issues so far.  

I also agree about the G sensor and will disable it.   Mine has the silver ring and draws some attention from outside.  Once I finish the tests I'll paint it black and the camera should "disappear" behind the rearview mirror.

I played a couple movies and the image and sound came pretty good.   It's my Sony action cam but it was much cheaper.

If the shortest interval is 2 seconds between shots, that's not nearly good enough for recording driving.  Compare that to the 30 frames per second that you are shooting video in.  2 seconds at highway speeds is a long time.  Actually, after some research I am pretty sure that that is actually a shutter delay timer, not an interval timer.  So it's not going to take multiple photos at all.



Oh, here's a few other things I remember reading or doing.

- Make sure you turn off the "IR" LEDs, which are just white-light bulbs.  I actually painted over mine.

- record at 1080/30fps, not 720/60.  The 1080 is better quality, and the 720 setting doesn't actually get you 60fps anyway.

- I'd get a better mount that the one that is stock.  If you look around, you can find ball joint mounts that also have a lock for the camera mount.  That's the kind I bought.  The ebay guy I bought it from doesn't seem to have quite the same model anymore, but you should be able to still find something similar if you look.

I'm using a class 4 kingston.  For a camera it really won't matter that much, as long as it works.

As for the overlap settings, I could have sworn that was for the G1W, but maybe that was for a different camera I was looking at.  What I've been reading suggests that it overlaps automatically, and I don't feel like messing with mine to see if I can find it myself.

No time lapse? That sucks.

This weekend I'll experiment with different settings.  So far I left most default and just checked a few stuff like using highest movie recording resolution, which came very nice in my PC.  I want to check a big screen TV but mine broke so it will have to wait.

The illuminator is off. I turned it on to check but saw it would be useless.

I'm also recording 3min movie intervals.  I agree with you on the G sensor and will turn it off.

As far the reflection, I'm considering improvising a rubber or foam cone and attach it between the camera and windshield.  This will cut a lot of the stuff reflected from the dashboard.

The suction cup mount that came with my G1W-C broke.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket replacement mount?


Thanks

I use this one. But if you want the suction cup mount I found this

Wants my profile, friends list and E-mail off Facebook.  Not going to happen.  I have a very small friends list and I'm not giving it to a marketing company.

2 lanes at night, merging in and out of right lane, being in the left lane makes sense, long as you move right when you see someone approaching.  I don't camp left lane but I to make an effort to stay out of the merging lane as much as possible.

So you would say it works better than Rosetta Stone for learning Korean?

Bet he has a lot of soft tissue tweaks, everything that was tight is now loosened up, and everything that was loose is now tightened up.  He ought to get some nice massages out of that for a few weeks.  

Did it look like he put his parking brake on?

I want one.. I don't know why. But I do.

has anyone else used the mobius action cam? This is what I use and am very happy with it. Been running it for about 2 years and never had a single hiccup. Audio and video quality are top notch!

For any of you using suction cup mounts... have you been able to get the cup to mount to the windshield if you have those little black dots on it?


Not sure what they're called, but the black dot pattern dips down behind my rear view mirror, RIGHT where I want to mount the suction cup. Since the dots are raised, I'm sure it'll interfere with the suction.
I want to use either the G1W or G1W-X, and maybe with this mount which reviews say is stronger than the mount that comes with the G1W:


http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Vehicle-Recorder-Bracket-GT550WS/dp/B00EMVOV3U/ref=pd_sim_422_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B3VGSW1YYYPBSYWAWW7


Might have to find a sticky mount for it instead.



Random pic that looks similar to how my car looks:

I think that's the way I'm going to go too.

This mount, CH-115:

http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Double-Sided-Adhesive-Universal-Recorder/dp/B00BPRLNQ2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

With the G1W-H camera:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-H-Hidden-Dashboard/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3Q6OU3JUZJQCD





 

My truck has that, suction cups don't work.  So far, the adhesive pad that came with the upgraded mount has held fine on top of it.  
I believe the technical term is "fritting" or "frit band"



If that mount just has the threaded metal rod for attachment, then it probably won't work since the G1W-H doesn't have the threaded female port.  It uses the rectangular tab instead, see the top view pictures of the G1W-H.

Think I'm going to buy one. Question is two cams or one hmmmmm.

How are you guys wiring yours in? Plugging into the light or finding a hot wire to do it.
I have a new car and back in my younger years. It was nothing to wire my own radio, amps and stuff up. Now I'm not sure I want to fool with it.
I may just pay the local shop $50 or whatever to tap the wire to the fuse box. I looked at a car forum and see how guys are powering theirs with the same kind of car and one guy had removed the glovebox and parts of the console. I'm too lazy to bother with that now

I've found my rear camera to be more of a hassle than a benefit.

I'd probably sing a different song if it was mounted over my license plate, such that the bottom half of the frame isn't my truck bed

I've had a DR550GW 2 channel model since June of last year.  The micro sd card that came with it failed (with video of a guy spinning out but missing everything) a couple months ago.  I swapped in a sandisk I had laying around and it has been fine.

I am thinking of getting the DR650 for the other car.

Here are some videos off of the 550, including one from today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrT66J3H_w0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sD1KQwpQn6o

and today's

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMrrLeBdflI

I use iMovie to do the video editing, I am getting slightly more proficient at it.

My Jeep has two 12VDC power sockets on the front dashboard, similar to cigarette lighters.   One permanently powered and the other switched with the ignition.

Right now I am using a power distribution panel connected to the permanently powered one and turn it on and off manually using a switch on that panel.  I use that panel to charge cell phones, tablets, etc.

However, I'll buy one of those 12VDC to 5VDC USB adapters designed to fit in the power socket and hook it up there.  In this way it will turn on and off with the ignition.

The Jeep has those CANBUS circuits and some wires use pulsed 12VDC (Jeep says it makes light bulbs last longer) so things can get sporty if we do not know which wire to tap.

If you do not want your wires exposed try to tap the power socket in your car from behind the dashboard.  That one should be safe.

I think what I'm going to do is buy a 9' USB cable and run it to a cig adapter that has USB ports on it that I have in my console now for my cell phone that is 12v switched only when the car is running. I looked at some reviews of the G1W-H and it comes with a 3' USB cable for hooking to a computer I guess and a long one that has a cigarette adapter attached to the cable. I rather not use that cable but instead use a long USB cable and plug into the adapter that has USB ports that I'm using to charge my phone. It has two USB ports on it so one could still do my phone while the other powers the camera.

My only concern with using a USB power adapter and usb cable is the device may think it's hooked up to a PC rather than a power source. Does anyone have a G1W-H that can test that?

I can run the cord in the headliner, down the A pillar weather stripping and get it routed to the console and make it look neat  but if it was in the arm rest I could push the cord under the console panel and pretty much have the cord hidden.

But first I got to get my windows tinted.

I've got the G1W-C and it also came with both cables.  I used both and there was no difference.   My plan is exactly like yours.  Use a long USB cable and pull it behind the A pillar cover up to the windshield header.  I should have got the all-black model, but will just paint that chrome ring around the lens.  

The device shouldn't think its hooked up to a PC so long as only the power/ground lead of the USB cable is used. If the data leads are also used then it may trip the device into thinking that its connected to a PC. The power lead should be +5V.

Thanks Rossi & sbhaven

Good to know either cable will work but if it did try to go into PC mode. I'd just slice the cable and cut the two data cables and heat shrink it back.

Think I'll order me a G1W-H and a sturdier mount off Amazon, may as well get the cable there too but will compare prices with monoprice. I already have a Class 10 32GB card

Not going to put it up until after I get my tint done in a few weeks though, help with keeping prying eyes out.

Wow, what a douchbag that Civic driver was. I'm seeing more of that every day



 

What is there difference or is there a difference other than price between these two? Which would you guys get?
It seems like fakes are what you have to watch for, both are fulfilled by Amazon so I should get Prime 2day shipping. Use a credit card instead of debit

Amazon BlackBox G1WH

Amazon SpyTec G1WH  (was sold by spytec now says docooler and earlier in this thread someone mention bad experience with them, go direct to spytec store amazon link and they still have them)

For the price of the Spytec. I could by the camera, USB cable and better mount for the price of the BlackBox one without the better mount and usb cable

Also where are you guys mounting yours? left/right,above/below of the rear view

I have been using Mio 538's (3 of them) in our cars for over a year without issue.  It is a very compact dashcam that does HD.  I compared it with the Garmin Dash Cam 20 and I found Mio to be better.  At rest, Garmin is clearer and has better color accuracy.  But once vehicle starts moving and bouncing around, Garmin becomes too jittery to see clearly.  Whereas Mio seems to have a stabilizing system that smooth out the bumps.  Seeing license plates and such is no issue.  Oh, it has very good night capabilities.  I am getting a Mio 588 to equip our last car.  Only $20 more than the 538, but it is supposed to use Sony lens and has touch screen.  

For those of you who are interested, check ebay.  They are made in Taiwan and all the reputable sellers are from there.  Good stuff, highly recommend them.

Spytec is for sure legit. I can't research the other on my phone ATM.

I have mine mounted at about the same height as the rear view mirror, and just to the right of center. Basically, as high as possible and as close to center as possible.  That way it has the best view while also blending into the rv mirror from the outside.

Make sure you leave enough space to do things like open your sun visor and adjust the mirror.

The other seller, Black Box, at one time was using warranty information, contacts, etc., copied from BlackBoxMyCar. BlackBoxMyCar used to have a notice on their site telling people to be careful when ordering from Black Box on Amazon.

Thanks guys. I'm going to go with the SpyTec and play it safe.

So I finally got around to getting a new dash camera for the Mazda CX-5 I bought last year. I've had a "mirror cam" in the old truck for a while but wanted something better.

I bought one of these as I've followed them for a while over on DashCamTalk forums.

No affiliation, no stock, blah, blah, blah.

StreetGuardian

I've hardwired it in. Apologies for the pictures but it was a rush job on the pictures as I had to be at a function and I barely finished in time. The reflection is the pits but it's tough to see it from the outside anyway. Which is what I wanted.

ProTip: If you want to know how old you are, try crawling around under a dash and squeezing your hand into tiny fuse compartments on a warm day.






Video from the camera. One at night, one during the day. I left the audio in, apologies for that, but I thought someone might want to know how it worked.

Day.


Night. With a car full of critics.


Because of the mirror pod on the CX-5 with all the tech stuff in it, I had to mount the camera offset a bit and below the tint I had installed. The curvature of the windshield is working against me a bit and I haven't tweeked any settings so it's pretty raw with some reflection depending on sun position.

It has the GPS and the registrator viewing software shows the tracking very well. I'm pleased so far, it's way better than the old mirror cam in the truck.

I need a dash cam....I just saw a guy swerve accross the double yellow,  20 times in 3-4 miles, would have run 6-7 cars off the road, if there were shoulders...no shoulders on this road, just ravines, almost t-boned a truck at an intersection, and THEN, almost had  a headon...i did  not call 911, GD said, MYOB.......

Little bit of axle wrap.

click here

Axle wrap. Too much torque, too much traction, something had to give. Very common in vehicles with rear leaf springs and a lot of power. It's rarely that dramatic.

Here's a video that could be about 1/4 the length if you want to see the slow-mo version of it. Look at 0:23 to see what it looks like right before it gets expensive


here's another video, you can see pre-failure wrap from 1:05 to 1:20 or so.

They make ladder bars and pinion snubbers for a reason. Dumbass.



 

He'll just blow out the pumpkin after that. Replace it with a spool and grenade his driveshaft. Put in a carbon fiber shaft and twist his half-shafts into pretzels or grenade his transmission.

They never learn.

Amen.

 

Back on topic, I finally put a SpyTec G1WH in the car last night. Pretty easy setup overall. I want to film some random action to help with training my daughter on how to recognize and deal with situations as they develop.

YouTube has tons of them.   There's also this one recently posted in GD that's almost a textbook case.   Still many years to go for my son but I'll show my wife.  

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1750746_Hmmm__why_is_the_car_in_front_of_me_braking_.html