So it's recommended to wait until you receive your firm 1 before you buy?

Definitely

Buying the parts doesn't necessarily demonstrate constructive intent but with the short turns on Form 1's I see no reason to tempt the beast. I'm filing mine tomorrow for this and will wait until it's approved until I buy the parts. YMMV.

remember that this needs a Ser# engraved as well as your trust, if you go that route.

I think I'll be filling out another forma  when I get home. Realistically, how durable are these things going to be?

I need to tame my 10.5" and I hope it will work.

Also the model and caliber are necessary as well...


 

The mag light solvent trap I tried (not mine), worked as well as regular high dollar, major manufacturer devices for .300blk, both super and subsonic. I wouldn't trust it for .300WM pressure, though.

So what's everyone's serial number and model numbers going to be? This could get hilarious....

When I have an extra "why the fuck not" money to burn, this will be the second one I make...

I think my first one is going to be "I think I'm going to Fo!

MAG1337 would be good too

can someone help me on the E file stuff? I have done all 5 of my NFA items via regular ole ME. Is the E file fore trust's?

Yes, trusts, LLCs, corps, etc...  Individuals cannot file through eForms...

 

I'll take 6 months and a REAL can any day...  If I'm F1'ing a can its gonna be done right on a lathe.

Everybody I know is at least a hobby machinist and has a lathe, EVERYONE.

But for those that may not have the skills or tools, this will work.

This apparently works VERY well, but the problem is all the elitists on the internet with their $1000 cans come and shit all over the people making their own, so most people with these homemade type cans are run off and dont post about them much.

It works very well. I especially like the apogee double internal stainless tube.  I machined a cone into the end cap ,a stainless 3/16 set screw in the base cap, and pressed the baffles into M baffles. Also I did some of the work on bridgeport with cnc controls so that makes it quieter too right???

Most of this is covered in the "flashlight can"  thread a little further down the page if someone wants more Info or links.

Elitist...no. I've build 7 cans this far. They're purpose built instead of .50 cal sized .22LR cans.

SD tactical responded to me today. Carbon steel end caps at weeks end

Like I have time for this crap!
I have to find a 12 step group for this sight..........

Nice, Did he say if they would be smaller?

Since you have his attention, can you ask if there will be smaller profile versions, possibly ones that dont stick out so much maybe even flush fitting.

Also can you ask him if the griffin adapter will be made in steel too.

Already asked about the griffin mount. Will ask about the profile

 

How do you form the baffles from the freeze plugs?

Center punch ball bearing and a press or vise. Then drill the hole. Holes should be .06 larger than caliber

So anyone know if step baffles would be better then the formed freeze plugs?

From what I have been seeing the M baffles seem to work just fine.

 

Well my thinking is that there has to be something out there that is readily available that can also be used as baffles....

There are limitless ways to do it. If you are looking for cheap easy and effective go for high wall freeze plugs pressed into M baffles or for a smaller 22lr dedicated stainless setup look into Tinnerman washers. Once you start googling you will learn enough to get you started.  And remember everyone loves pictures.

If you haven't sent that email yet.... ask him if he is the one making the tubes, if so various lengths would be AWESOME

I already did. I'm going to use the ApogeeProducts tubes. They're 40$, SS and you don't have to worry about a stupid hole. Think I'm gonna do SS intead of Carbon. Not entirely sure what the difference is but SS just seems to be a better option.



 

On SDTactical's website the tubes called "special" are carbon steel tubes with threading on the inside, there are no holes.

Hmm.... I now see that there is a 6" option  Hmm, the suppressor you make is allowed to be shorter then what you specified on the form right?

Link

that's pretty sweet. I was looking at the Gemtech LID endcap and thinking..............

 

I hope he redesigns the end caps... way too much excess material...

pfft. take an angle grinder to that.



Yeah, just went and piled up all the stuff I need. 157$ in parts and a 200$ tax stamp. Oh, and KY just passed a shall sign NFA documents law a few weeks ago too. Take your opinion and shove it, Chief.



I think I'm gonna do the 5/8x24 threads first for multi gun use, then get a griffin brake. A sacrificial blast baffle is never a bad thing.



 

Think of it this way.... Buying an extra $30 adapter turns that griffin mount into a $130 mount, if you just buy it right off the bat, you save $30 so its like the mount is only $60-70 instead of $90-100

Do you know anything about the other brake he has? I like the looks of it just concerned that there is no other market for it.



 

They are aluminum for $60....

They will be destroyed quickly by calibers like 5.56.

Oh, I thought I read that they were SS but the caps were AL. Yep, went back and looked the SDTA is stainless.



I'm well aware of erosion. I SBR'd my SCAR16. It's been eating up the factory brake like no tomorrow.



 

Oh you're right... oops

I'd like to build a 9mm can with a booster, but $150 for the booster from gemtech the price is now in the range of a blowout sale manufactured can.

Has anyone used any other boosters or found a light enough build to work?

Y'all are making me want to Form 1 a carbon steel or SS maglight tube! Five store bought Form 4's, but I like the novelty of building my own. I do not weld, nor do I have access to lathe or mills. I could contract having ends welded with approved Form 1 in hand, but trying to explain to local businesses that it's legal is just something I'd rather not waste a lot of time trying to do. Threaded is the best way for "me" to make one. The carbon steel tube was enticing at 8.3" long, but 6" would be perfect for 300 BLK and 277 WLV SBR's. I'd rather use homebuilt Form 1 on them than a high dollar Form 4.

The other thing holding me back was the aluminum mag thread protectors. They had too much material, appeared to add 1/2" inch length to each end (1" overall external additional length). Also, the center marked end seems to be too solid. I want it dished/hollowed out some. I sent them an email last night asking about steel end pieces being flush fit. If they cut down on excess material, then I'd like to use 6" tube with SDTA brake, and form plugs into baffles with vice/socket/ball bearing.  Hmm, 8 plugs take up approx. 3", and the end pieces take up 1", which only leaves 2" unused space at muzzle end. I'd like to use a SS fender washer as blast baffle. Wonder how far into the blast chamber the SDTA brake would protrude? It would be nice if it would lightly touch the fender washer, and hold all the plugs in place without having to add additional metal weight.

I wouldn't want to be threading aluminum onto direct 5/8's barrel or onto brake threads much, but I believe the downrange end piece in aluminum would hold up just fine. Take the aluminum end piece, shave off all but 1/16" exposed, then remove a lot of excess material from center of what remains. The next problem I see, how do you (home form 1 builder) threat the remaining bare aluminum?

Honing inside the tube would allow the plugs to fit more "loosely" to allow easier disassembly for inspection. Just need a way for all the plugs to be pushed towards downrange end when assembled. This product is priced right http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/Economy-Brake-and-Engine-Cylinder-Hone-Set-P15848C156.aspx  

You guys be careful.  Like what was just mentioned, you are screwing aluminum to metal.  There's going to be fatigue there eventually.   If those baffles don't fit together precisely, there's going to be shifting and wear of the inside of the aluminum interior.  Be safe and inspect you designs after each use.  200 bucks for stamp and 120 in parts isn't worth one of these exploding and hurting you or someone around you.   I'd personally not shoot around another person.  You would be lible.  Just saying,  be careful.  I personally have no desire to do this.  

You are dealing with a controlled explosion when dealing with rifles.   Don't take offense with my statements.   Just use caution and inspect daily when using.   I'd hate to make something like this and have something happen and injure a family member, myself, or a bistandard.  Your ass would be sued so far it would break you.   You are the manufacturer, not AAC, SilencerCo.   There's nobody to fall back on.

My can will be made entirely of stainless steel. This isn't some half assed science project. Furthermore, I'm no fool. I wouldn't use AL end caps for a center fire can. Thanks for the concern

I have been looking at sockets.

They would be heavy though.

well, not everyone is as bright as you.  Billy bob is out there somewhere.  It's closer to a science project than you think.  You basically are assembling parts, not manufacturing anything to spec.  materials you use do't make it precise.

Well, that's a good post for the complete noob to heed should they stumble upon this  thread. Hence the thank you, I wasn't trying to be terse with you.

SilencerTalk has a lot of really good threads on construction of  these. I'm no machinist/tool&die maker but I'm fairly confident that I can put something like this together. I will test fire with a string attached to my gun, while behind cover, wearing my issue kevlar.  Then again, I've assembled numerous AR15's and havn't blown myself up either. The blast baffle sleeve/spacer will be cut long intentionally, and cut incrementally to press fit the rest of the stack when the final endcap is being screwed on. That's how I plan to do it anyhow.

you could always look at a place like ENCO and buy rods. You could figure out your bore diameter and have a machine shop bore it to spec for you and mill the rest of the monlithic stack yourself. There are  a TON of designs out there. ST has quite a few designs posted ranging from the most simplistic to the most exotic depending on your skill/tool level.

I gotcha.  Arms need a good reputation.   Don't want to see anything in the news where a guy blew his hand off with a self made suppressor.  The liberals would love that.  Carry on.  Be safe.

You don't have to designate a model number for a Form 1 Suppressor, then you don't have to engrave it either.

Hmmm....just tried filling out the Form 1 and I used my trust as the manufacturer. The generates an error saying that this is an unknown manufacturer and will increase wait times. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?