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Posted: 3/21/2015 12:52:09 AM EDT
[#1]
Is there any reason this would be bad idea on a centerfire rifle can? Just curious as it seems like this is all centered around .22's.
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Posted: 3/21/2015 8:36:39 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Before I do this, is this 100% good to go for aluminum? I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't be, but I've got to ask. The plan is to do my Outback 2 that was just re-cored (monocore still brand new) and then clean my Prodigy and do that one too. Good to go. My Lex9 baffles are aluminum. They took the treatment just as well as the SS baffles. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 8:51:29 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there any reason this would be bad idea on a centerfire rifle can? Just curious as it seems like this is all centered around .22's. Mostly because you can't take it apart to clean it and you will always have some residual brake fluid in there collecting more and more junk. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:42:23 AM EDT
[#4]
Since there are aluminum parts in brake systems, this is probably safer for Aluminum than AIR is! Also, there is no point in treating sealed cans or rifle cans because this is for CLEANING of the baffles. Can't clean the inside of a sealed can very well.
One note is that although it is safe for aluminum, there is nothing to say it will be 100% safe for anodizing, paint, or other coatings. I suspect that it is safe for paints but then why are you treating painted surfaces? |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 12:54:03 PM EDT
[#5]
I was able to get out of the house this morning and get to the range. So without further adieu, here are my results:
The plan was to run 300 rounds of Remington Subsonic, which probably represents an average range session for me:  The host gun was a 16" dedicated AR conversion with a Kestrel 22:  The baffles were dipped before being treated. I didn't exactly follow the protocol in the original article, but instead, heated the baffles up with my heat gun until they were well over 250F and then dunked them in a jar of silicone oil. All but the first baffle came out clean with only a little fouling on the first baffle as you can see below:  You can also see some small beads of silicone oil on the baffles:  Spring has finally come in Ohio. I can see the ground, so it's time to shoot!  The baffle stack right after shooting. It's actually a lot cleaner on the outside than it used to be before I treated the baffles:  Photos of the individual baffles after ~290 rounds (I had 10 duds that would not fire even after 3-4 strikes):         You can see that the fouling is a little more sludge-like:  So, here's what happens when I clean them by just wiping down with a paper towel. Nothing more than finger pressure was used. No scraping was done:       There's some fouling in the blast chamber and on the first baffle that will most likely come off with a little bit more elbow grease and/or some scraping - but WOW! I am pretty impressed that it worked and worked quite well! I think I'll be treating my other rimfire and centerfire pistol cans now. Just a personal thought, I would recommend getting silicone oil and not using DOT5 brake fluid. If you look at the MSDS for DOT5 brake fluid, it has some other chemicals which are irritants and you don't want that stuff vaporizing and getting in your face while you're shooting. Pure silicone oil is cheap - about $18 a bottle. I purchased the 350 cst viscosity oil which is perfect for this application. Enjoy! |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 12:56:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Can you please give us a make and model or link to the pure silicon oil you used.
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Posted: 3/21/2015 1:00:34 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Can you please give us a make and model or link to the pure silicon oil you used. Sure! Here you go |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 1:39:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was able to get out of the house this morning and get to the range. So without further adieu, here are my results: There's some fouling in the blast chamber and on the first baffle that will most likely come off with a little bit more elbow grease and/or some scraping - but WOW! I am pretty impressed that it worked and worked quite well! I think I'll be treating my other rimfire and centerfire pistol cans now. Just a personal thought, I would recommend getting silicone oil and not using DOT5 brake fluid. If you look at the MSDS for DOT5 brake fluid, it has some other chemicals which are irritants and you don't want that stuff vaporizing and getting in your face while you're shooting. Pure silicone oil is cheap - about $18 a bottle. I purchased the 350 cst viscosity oil which is perfect for this application. To say I'm impressed would be an understatement. I am shocked. Nearly identical results to the article. I was convinced before, but WOW. I don't share your hesitation with the DOT5 brake fluid, so I'll try that. Thanks! |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 1:41:56 PM EDT
[#9]
I was pretty skeptical but WOW
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Posted: 3/21/2015 1:46:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Wow! Call me impressed!
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Posted: 3/21/2015 4:41:01 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mostly because you can't take it apart to clean it and you will always have some residual brake fluid in there collecting more and more junk. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Is there any reason this would be bad idea on a centerfire rifle can? Just curious as it seems like this is all centered around .22's. Mostly because you can't take it apart to clean it and you will always have some residual brake fluid in there collecting more and more junk. Yeah, I was thinking more along the lines of the user serviceable suppressors, like a Kestrel 556 or all the form 1 cans out there now. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 5:37:40 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yeah, I was thinking more along the lines of the user serviceable suppressors, like a Kestrel 556 or all the form 1 cans out there now. Silicone is only good up to about 500 degrees. Rifle cans easily get past that, and fast. At that point, I believe you'd have the treatment break down. Don't know what Silicone embedded in steel does when you burn it. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 5:39:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Engineer, thanks for posting your results.
I wonder if you would be able to reassemble and put another 300rds through it without retreating the baffles with the silicone oil. Only one way to find out. 
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Posted: 3/21/2015 5:45:56 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Silicone is only good up to about 500 degrees. Rifle cans easily get past that, and fast. At that point, I believe you'd have the treatment break down. Don't know what Silicone embedded in steel does when you burn it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Yeah, I was thinking more along the lines of the user serviceable suppressors, like a Kestrel 556 or all the form 1 cans out there now. Silicone is only good up to about 500 degrees. Rifle cans easily get past that, and fast. At that point, I believe you'd have the treatment break down. Don't know what Silicone embedded in steel does when you burn it. Cool, thanks. That's the kind of info I was looking for. I guess I'll hold off on this until I build a pistol can. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 6:17:51 PM EDT
[#15]
I wonder what the longevity of the treatment is. I would imagine that you would have to retreat every now and then.
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Posted: 3/21/2015 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Engineer, thanks for posting your results. I wonder if you would be able to reassemble and put another 300rds through it without retreating the baffles with the silicone oil. Only one way to find out. Lol - how much subsonic ammo do you think I have lying around.  But yes, I'm planning on seeing how long the treatment lasts. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 7:14:20 PM EDT
[#17]
UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling.
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Posted: 3/21/2015 7:44:25 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling. How did you prep the baffles? |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:24:11 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling. What host did you use? Was it a pistol? The ammo may have made a difference too (subsonic vs. bulk pack) |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:25:10 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How did you prep the baffles? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling. How did you prep the baffles? Dip, then wet tumbling. They were 99% clear of lead when i did the treatment. The rest flaked off after treatment. I had them tumbling since i last posted, and they still arent clean, so now they are in the dip until tomorrow morning. The lead is on the face, and inside on the tapered part. When I treat them again, i will follow the instructions to the T, including the mineral spirit wipedown and wearing gloves. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:28:28 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What host did you use? Was it a pistol? The ammo may have made a difference too (subsonic vs. bulk pack) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling. What host did you use? Was it a pistol? The ammo may have made a difference too (subsonic vs. bulk pack) GSG 1911-22. I shot mag after mag until i used all the .22 up. Kestrel got hot as hades! I will make sure i leave it all soaking for 24 hours this time. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:34:37 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: GSG 1911-22. I shot mag after mag until i used all the .22 up. Kestrel got hot as hades! I will make sure i leave it all soaking for 24 hours this time. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: UPDATE: My results were not as successful. I shot ~500 rounds of remington golden. Shits all caked up. The carbon wiped right off, but the baffles are being tumbled right now to loosen the lead off. I will report back in a few hours after tumbling. What host did you use? Was it a pistol? The ammo may have made a difference too (subsonic vs. bulk pack) GSG 1911-22. I shot mag after mag until i used all the .22 up. Kestrel got hot as hades! I will make sure i leave it all soaking for 24 hours this time. I'm wondering if those two factors made the difference - a short barrel + supersonic ammo vs. long barrel + subsonic ammo - you might have still had burning powder inside the suppressor. I didn't follow the procedure at all - I threw my baffles into a wire basket (from my ultrasonic cleaner), used my heat gun to heat the baffles up and then dunked them in silicone oil for about 20 minutes. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 12:15:08 AM EDT
[#23]
Probably all factors above.
After only an hour and a half in the dip, the lead was far easier to remove this time than in cleanings past. Mind you, it didnt just wipe off like it did for the other guys, but it did flake off easily in big chunks with a scraper. The baffles are back in the oven now after a proper prepping, and will sit in the dot5 for a day. I may even treat this one multiple times, heating and soaking over and over before i use it again. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 12:18:08 AM EDT
[#24]
I only got to run 30 rounds thru mine tonight. I was helping a friend sight in a rifle, and we were racing the sun.
This is the first Kestrel that the baffles were heated then dropped into the room temp brake fluid. 95% of what was on there wiped off with no effort. They don't feel as slick as they did when I treated them. I put them back int he tube and will shoot them some more. We might go out again tomorrow. Depends on school work for me. MAHA |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 9:07:33 AM EDT
[#25]
I did my Outback 2 monocore last night and will be able to shoot next weekend to see how it worked. I would also like to maybe plug the threaded end of the tube and fill the inside of the tube for a treatment, any issues anyone could think of with doing that?
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Posted: 3/22/2015 11:49:46 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did my Outback 2 monocore last night and will be able to shoot next weekend to see how it worked. I would also like to maybe plug the threaded end of the tube and fill the inside of the tube for a treatment, any issues anyone could think of with doing that? We soaked the tube of the element. MAHA |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 1:13:51 PM EDT
[#27]
wondering if this treatment would work on other gun parts such as bolt carriers, etc....
only one way to find out i suppose. 
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Posted: 3/22/2015 2:39:50 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
wondering if this treatment would work on other gun parts such as bolt carriers, etc.... only one way to find out i suppose. I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. MAHA |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 3:08:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
wondering if this treatment would work on other gun parts such as bolt carriers, etc.... only one way to find out i suppose. I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. I thought the same thing with the centerfire bolt. Strip the bolt down (including the ejector) and throw it in with the suppressor batch. I don't shoot a whole lot of DI anymore. Mostly piston. |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 7:09:57 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Lol - how much subsonic ammo do you think I have lying around.
But yes, I'm planning on seeing how long the treatment lasts. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Engineer, thanks for posting your results. I wonder if you would be able to reassemble and put another 300rds through it without retreating the baffles with the silicone oil. Only one way to find out. Lol - how much subsonic ammo do you think I have lying around.
But yes, I'm planning on seeing how long the treatment lasts. I feel your pain!  Very cool, keep us posted.
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Posted: 3/22/2015 7:19:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Has anyone thought of using this in a wet can?
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Posted: 3/22/2015 7:48:36 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. MAHA Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: wondering if this treatment would work on other gun parts such as bolt carriers, etc.... only one way to find out i suppose. I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. MAHA How about treating the bore of a barrel. Would that make it easier to clean? |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:02:45 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How about treating the bore of a barrel. Would that make it easier to clean? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
wondering if this treatment would work on other gun parts such as bolt carriers, etc.... only one way to find out i suppose. I was thinking about doing my 22 AR bolt. MAHA How about treating the bore of a barrel. Would that make it easier to clean? I would avoid any liquid build up in the barrel. So I would not try to treat a barrel. MAHA |
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Posted: 3/22/2015 8:04:05 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Has anyone thought of using this in a wet can? We have thought about it. The Element had some extra DOT 5 in it when we shot about 5 rounds thru it. It smoked a lot, didn't compare it to a dry can. MAHA |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 10:48:27 AM EDT
[#35]
Ok, my baffles, end caps and sleeves have been spotlessly cleaned, heated 250° and soaked in pure silicone.
Parts have now sat for a day on paper towels. They are still very wet with the silicone. Question, do I wipe residual oil off with a soft cloth or assemble "wet". Even after sitting for a day the silicone is still on the parts pretty thick. I know I have to wipe the outside of the can but how about the internal parts, leave wet or dry? Thank you. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 11:04:18 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok, my baffles, end caps and sleeves have been spotlessly cleaned, heated 250° and soaked in pure silicone. Parts have now sat for a day on paper towels. They are still very wet with the silicone. Question, do I wipe residual oil off with a soft cloth or assemble "wet". Even after sitting for a day the silicone is still on the parts pretty thick. I know I have to wipe the outside of the can but how about the internal parts, leave wet or dry? Thank you. I wiped off as much as I could but didn't try to get them completely dry or get all the corners and crevices of the baffles, if that makes any sense. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 11:27:51 AM EDT
[#37]
Thank you, I'll do that and give it a try. I'll try to post results this weekend.
. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 12:30:22 PM EDT
[#38]
I tumbled my Sparrow internals for 8 hours on my Model B. The steel finish is slightly lighter, but not shiny metal. Even then the monocore wasn't completely clean, and my pins were black. I assume the pins got coated in a combination of lead and carbon. I had to tumble them by themselves to get them clean.
I treated the parts with the brake fluid. We'll see how it does. If it attracts water it can't be any worse than using water as a wetting agent, which I do regularly. I don't think the parts fit well in a small HF drum, I'll have to check, they might fit at an angle. |
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Posted: 4/4/2015 6:20:59 PM EDT
[#39]
You guys have any more updates? I got my Silicon Oil from Amazon and about to treat some aluminum anodized baffles, SF Ryder 22A and AAC Tirant. Figure I would check first on how your treatments were holding up...any other tips and tricks? Oven, Heat Gun, etc.
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Posted: 4/4/2015 11:28:52 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You guys have any more updates? I got my Silicon Oil from Amazon and about to treat some aluminum anodized baffles, SF Ryder 22A and AAC Tirant. Figure I would check first on how your treatments were holding up...any other tips and tricks? Oven, Heat Gun, etc. I don't. Life got busy so I haven't been able to get to the range again. Hopefully someone else that did silicone oil can report their findings. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 4/30/2015 10:47:14 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't. Life got busy so I haven't been able to get to the range again. Hopefully someone else that did silicone oil can report their findings. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You guys have any more updates? I got my Silicon Oil from Amazon and about to treat some aluminum anodized baffles, SF Ryder 22A and AAC Tirant. Figure I would check first on how your treatments were holding up...any other tips and tricks? Oven, Heat Gun, etc. I don't. Life got busy so I haven't been able to get to the range again. Hopefully someone else that did silicone oil can report their findings. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile So for the guys that did this, what's your opinion? Work or not worth the effort? Anybody compare the silicone to FireClean? TIA! |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 8:11:26 AM EDT
[#42]
I attempted this on 2 brand new factory cans last night, and upgraded Gemtech G-Core Outback, and a SilencerCo Sparrow.
Question. In the instructions is says after removing from the silicon (I ordered the stuff from Amazon) to let them drip dry on paper towels overnight. This morning they still had a pretty heavy coat on the parts. For people that have done this, how "dry" are you getting the baffles before you reassemble? Are you wiping off the excess or just putting it back together as is? (after a night of "drying") Since these were brand new I wanted to see if this would make a difference from the get go. @slowplay: So far the effort has been minimal and if it makes cleaning easier I think it will be worth it. I am going to try to get to the range next week and see how easy they are to clean. |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 8:21:09 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I attempted this on 2 brand new factory cans last night, and upgraded Gemtech G-Core Outback, and a SilencerCo Sparrow. Question. In the instructions is says after removing from the silicon (I ordered the stuff from Amazon) to let them drip dry on paper towels overnight. This morning they still had a pretty heavy coat on the parts. For people that have done this, how "dry" are you getting the baffles before you reassemble? Are you wiping off the excess or just putting it back together as is? (after a night of "drying") Since these were brand new I wanted to see if this would make a difference from the get go. @slowplay: So far the effort has been minimal and if it makes cleaning easier I think it will be worth it. I am going to try to get to the range next week and see how easy they are to clean. I wiped off most of it. If you leave a bunch on there, you'll probably be wearing it after the first few shots.
Are you going to try on a pistol or rifle host? |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 8:34:47 AM EDT
[#44]
@Engineer: Thanks for the info, I'll wipe them down tonight and reassemble.
As for usage: Both. Mainly pistol for initial testing. But they will both be used on many different rifle hosts also; 10/22's, Savage, 22 AR's, etc. Is there a reason you ask about hosts? |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 8:44:30 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@Engineer: Thanks for the info, I'll wipe them down tonight and reassemble. As for usage: Both. Mainly pistol for initial testing. But they will both be used on many different rifle hosts also; 10/22's, Savage, 22 AR's, etc. Is there a reason you ask about hosts? My experiment was carried out on a rifle host and the results were very good. I'm wondering if experimenting on a pistol host, where all the powder hasn't burned up, will lead to results that aren't as good. |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 9:12:49 AM EDT
[#46]
Thanks Engineer, I'll try to repost back once I get to the range to test it out.
Most likely be pistol for the first run. P22, S&W 422, and maybe the Glock AA Upper |
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Posted: 5/1/2015 10:03:16 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd love to do this on my TiRant 9 baffles, but I'm not sure I can get all of the fouling off first. I put a few hundred rounds thru before the first cleaning....and got most of the baffles clean scrubbing with a brush and scotch brite pad... You and I are neighbors. I wouldn't recommend doing it frequently but I'd be happy to put your baffles through my pin tumbler to get them spotless if you need that before trying the silicone stuff. Just shoot me a PM. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 9:26:28 PM EDT
[#48]
Anymore feedback on this?
Can it go several cleanings, or just one? |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 10:34:33 PM EDT
[#49]
I've done the pre-treatment, haven't had a chance to shoot my Spectre yet, but it seems like something that should be done every cleaning.
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Posted: 5/23/2015 10:42:28 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anymore feedback on this? Can it go several cleanings, or just one? I treated my Spectre II and shot it out of a pistol host. I didn't keep track of how many rounds but it was less than 100. The baffles closer to the muzzle didn't do as well (seemed to have more fouling/vaporized lead sticking to them) while the fouling on the further baffles was easy to wipe off. |
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