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Posted: 2/28/2024 8:26:12 AM EDT
Which one of these would be better for preventing rust and keeping a couple guns in a safe?
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TN, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 8:47:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: black1970]
[#1]
Anything is better than WD40. Only thing WD40 is good for is drying out a distributor cap. If you put WD40 on the internals of a firearm then go back several months or years later the action will be like it is welded shut. Leave it alone. Use some kind of good oil. Not in a spray can.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:22:09 AM EDT
[#2]
and hoppes #9 is not a lube it's a bore cleaner... though hoppes does make lubes.
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:24:56 AM EDT
[#3]
Myth or not, I've never let WD40 anywhere near any of my guns.
Hoppes, Remoil, CLP, Slip - the proper tools |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:33:15 AM EDT
[#4]
Clean your guns with “proper” products, put in gun socks, buy a golden rod,
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:37:49 AM EDT
[#5]
Motor oil or ATF would be way better than WD40, or buy some CLP.
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IN, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:39:38 AM EDT
[#6]
CLP has always worked for me. 4D40 is a bad idea
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NM, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:42:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jwliv180]
[#7]
Eezox. Hornady One Shot. VCI bag. And other options.
I can't find the link offhand but there have been several studies comparing rust preventive capabilities of many commonly available gun oils, clps, etc. Eta: some links to testing Accurateshooter - 9 tested Gun Tests - 7 tested Concealed AZ - 7 tested Day at the Range - 46(!) tested (Comments show up first, scroll down to get to the article itself) |
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:49:18 AM EDT
[#8]
In before Froglube.
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Posted: 2/28/2024 9:51:17 AM EDT
[#9]
The only WD40 that does a great job of rust prevention is the "Specialist" Rust Inhibitor stuff. I've used it to actually bring back a pair of slip joint pliers that were left out in the rain for a few days.
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 12:22:34 PM EDT
[#10]
Hoppes #9 lube is 100% mineral oil. For rust prevention on non-moving parts, WD-40 would be a better choice.
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Posted: 2/28/2024 12:29:11 PM EDT
[#11]
WD 40 is a great carbon remover and gentle cleaner. You would be surprised at the armories that stock it as a basic cleaner for end users.
That said...it can also penetrate primers, so not great unless you can remove it from areas that contact the primer. It works as a lube...but you have to apply it frequently. Lube with Slip 2000. Clean with something like WD 40. Easy day. |
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Posted: 2/28/2024 12:33:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By black1970: Anything is better than WD40. Only thing WD40 is good for is drying out a distributor cap. If you put WD40 on the internals of a firearm then go back several months or years later the action will be like it is welded shut. Leave it alone. Use some kind of good oil. Not in a spray can.  |
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USA
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Posted: 2/28/2024 10:02:15 PM EDT
[#13]
"it can also penetrate primers, so not great unless you can remove it from areas that contact the primer."
Apparently not. The famed Box O' Truth did a study where they put various liquids, including Kroil and WD-40 on primers and let them soak. No primer failed to work even after 5 weeks soak time............... https://www.theboxotruth.com/threads/the-box-o-truth-39-oil-vs-primers.363/ The American Rifleman Dope Bag did some testing of primers and said that you can "kill" a primer by putting a solvent or oil directly in the primer, but once whatever it is evaporates or drys out, like a zombie, the primer comes back to life. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 10:45:44 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Infiltrator]
[#14]
It's comical how much controversy just mentioning WD-40 causes.
Out of those two, I'd go with Hoppe's lubricant (not the solvent), although just being in a safe, presumably in a climate controlled environment, either one would work. Ultimately you'd be better off looking for a dedicated protectant like Birchwood Casey's Barricade, imo. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 3/1/2024 11:36:26 AM EDT
[#15]
It doesn't have to be a binary choice.
 Raymond |
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Posted: 3/1/2024 11:20:32 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Firefinder37: LOL....keeping the myth alive. While there are far better products, WD-40 will not weld an action shut, that's just nonsense. I have used G96 for years, I like the smell and none of my firearms are rusty nor welded shut. I'm sure someone will come along and say it's garbage as well. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71VkggV2mcL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg My most favorite. 30+ years now. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2024 9:58:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: networkguru]
[#17]
When I was younger and didnt know any better, I would clean my Dads 20g shotgun with WD40.
Its still in mint condition. Would I use it now? Not if I didnt have to. As a side note, I used to mtn bike a lot out west and keeping the chain dry and lubed was important. Lots of dry dust. Well I took a trip a couple times to the NC mountains and the rust was unstoppable with my dry lubes so I started just spraying WD40 on everything. Worked great lol for the short term. I have much better lubes now of course. And WD Specialist for rust is impressive and expensive. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2024 11:53:54 AM EDT
[#18]
A gun is like any other metal out there. If you keep it relatively clean and free from moisture and humidity, you can safely keep it around like any other metal in your house.
If all you have are wd40 and hoppes 9, then just take a rag and wipe all the surface area of the firearm as best as you can and wipe it again with a dry rag. You can then store it in whatever pleases you assuming that item you store it in is free of moisture and humidity. |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 3/2/2024 11:58:45 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Firefinder37: LOL....keeping the myth alive. While there are far better products, WD-40 will not weld an action shut, that's just nonsense. I have used G96 for years, I like the smell and none of my firearms are rusty nor welded shut. I'm sure someone will come along and say it's garbage as well. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71VkggV2mcL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg The problem is the firearm has contaminants in them that will interact with the wd40 material. Generally speaking the hardest areas to clean on an firearm tend to be the places where the most contaminants build up. On an ar15, that includes the star chamber/barrel extension, and within the insides of the bcg around the back where the gas builds up pressure behind the bolt. Those places tend to be the areas where it fouls up and if you're not cleaning or picking those places, it tend to interact with chemicals you use. It can be even g96 too where the Cleaner is bonding with the carbon and build up and eventually turn into gum. Just use q-tips and brushes and dental picks in those spots. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2024 2:38:25 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FedDC: WD 40 is a great carbon remover and gentle cleaner. You would be surprised at the armories that stock it as a basic cleaner for end users. That said...it can also penetrate primers, so not great unless you can remove it from areas that contact the primer. It works as a lube...but you have to apply it frequently. Lube with Slip 2000. Clean with something like WD 40. Easy day. wd40 was/is designed to displace water, EVAPORATE, and leave behind a non liquid corrosion preventative film. it's NOT a lubricant!!! I use it as a degreaser/cleaner. never as a lubricant. leave it on something with moving parts and it acts like a very slow setting penetrating glue. I stopped buying "gun oil" after I realized Hoppe's was also gumming up my weapons. I invert my Mobil 1 cans over a mason jar after doing car oil changes. I get a couple tablespoons over a day of being inverted. put that in oil guns/cans. haven't bought "gun oil" in 20 years or so. |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 9:50:13 PM EDT
[#21]
Golden rod for the win.
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VA, USA
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Posted: Yesterday 8:54:50 AM EDT
[#22]
Another option you can use is having a gun sock. Just make sure they're the long wide ones for ar because a lot of them are not as wide for rifles or shotguns. It'll protect your stuff from dings and scratches.
Also another common household oil is 3-in-1 oils that can be good to use. You can also use any sort of automotive stuff you have as a lubrication like oil or grease. |
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Posted: Yesterday 3:27:31 PM EDT
[#23]
The BEST thing that I've found over the years in preventing rust and corrosion is VCI emitters. I specifically use a few of the Zerust emitters and they last for at least 2 yrs before needing swapped out.
There is no need to make sure the firearms are wiped down and coated with oil(although I already do that anyways). Humidity actually will activate the VCI molecules even more and VCI does not leave any film or residue on the surface of your items. VCI is orderless, non toxic and safe for electronics. There are no downsides to it and it protects all types of metal. I've ditched goldenrods and desiccants years ago and have used it exclusively(even in large ammo containers). I have not noticed any rust whatsoever. As jwliv180 mentioned above, you can also grab VCI bags if you're not storing items in an enclosed space. https://www.zerust.com/products/vci-emitters-diffusers/ |
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Posted: Yesterday 4:16:23 PM EDT
[#24]
Years ago I used WD for a safe full of items that I never shot. I liberally sprayed the rifles , mostly CR types but a few modern , and left them. The WD formed a "shell" type coating on the firearms that was a bit gummy to wipe off. Basically I just reshot some WD on it and toweled it off. Anyway , it protected them just fine with no rust issues after three or four years of sitting in a fireproof safe with no dehumidifier.
I'm sure there is better stuff today , but in my example it worked fine. |
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