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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:25:35 PM EDT
I just re-barreled an 11.5” suppressed pistol. Centurion LW barrel, Centurion gas block. Rex MG7.
Flawless function. Rounds are 2:30 - 3 ejection, H2 buffer and Sprinco Red. After approximately 200 rounds into today’s training, I had two back to back failure to feed. The round was working its way up the feed ramp, but got stuck. The gun had a total of around 200 rounds on it prior to today. I wiped it clean and relubed it prior to today’s session. I did not relube it during the session. Is this typical? This is my first suppressor and first time doing any decent volume in a day 100% suppressed. Any advice appreciated. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:36:58 PM EDT
[#1]
I would say you should be able to go a lot more than a couple of hundred rounds, but you should probably lube it that often. Suppressors dry it out real quick.
It sounds to me like you may have to do more shooting to isolate it to something to do with this suppressor though. |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:44:11 PM EDT
[#2]
Also, the sprinco red sounds like a LOT of spring for a 223 AR. Have you tried it with good milspec level spring?
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Posted: 3/28/2024 6:48:38 PM EDT
[#3]
Yes it’s typical
Silencers create back pressure Back pressure throws more shit back into the action Some silencers have more back pressure than others, which means even more shit It also depends on the powder used in the ammo you’re shooting Some ammo is filthy, shoot that in conjunction with a high back pressure can and your gun is going to get dirty real quick My .308 SBR looks like I put 500 rounds through it after I shoot a couple of mags with the Sandman-S attached, the ejected brass is totally covered with carbon |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 7:28:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Based on this, how many rounds could a typical suppressed MK12 go through before it starts to choke?
Would there be a significant difference, between mid-length and rifle-length, in the number of rounds before failure with that platform? |
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VA, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:10:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dalle0001]
[#5]
Did you try squirting some oil into the action? Generally speaking you can squirt some with the bolt locked back, then squirt a little into the three gas ports of the bolt, and squirt some into the extension area where the bolt rotates into.
That should help keep it running. I would recommend grease or if you want oil, go with slip 2000. CLP will burn off quickly and you'll have to squirt a lot more in there. Grease is probably the best thing to have in there as it'll help keep things smooth. Back when I was using grease, I found that it could stay in action for as much as 800-900 for unsuppressed, and about 500-800ish for suppressed after a couple of classes. Not all grease equal like tw25b I found would burn off pretty quick but something like slip ewg, or cherrybalmz will last a very long time. As much as people hate it, I'm using froglube myself and found that I can get to the same rate as above by using the paste similar to how I used grease before. Just a dab on all the rail contact spots good enough. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:36:34 PM EDT
[#6]
I will clean after 500 suppressed rounds, does not need it, but can use it
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:38:56 PM EDT
[#7]
No, this is not typical of a well running AR in my experience of a dozen or so suppresed ARs in various calibers.
1.) You said you just install the new barrel ans gas block. Are you 100% the install was done correctly? A misaligned gas block even a little can make your gun more sensitive to being dirty. I'm not familiar with Centurious specs but is it an adjustable gas block? 2.) AMMO! What ammo are you using? I've used shitty ammo that would soot up the cleanest gun three mags or so. Ever seen a suppressed gun using CFE223 powder? It's like wet mud through everything. You didnt mention and this is important. 3.) Did you shoot it after cleaning? All better? Was it one magazine that failed or multiple? Did you try another mag after the failures to isolate? I've honestly never had an issue with suppressed ARs, but I also clean then when they are dirty. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:46:32 PM EDT
[#8]
Good ammo, quality gun and can, i can drag it to 2500 rds with adding lube. It is a stretch though
I shoot mostly mcx now and scar 16 sometimes. Different story |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:50:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: topgunpilot20]
[#9]
What lube are you using? I've had some like BreakFree CLP and Lucas burn off in as little at 150 rounds suppressed and cause the malfunctions you're describing. Additional lube solved the problem.
I've had the best results with Slip 2000 EWL. Same gun, can, ammo, and firing schedule, and the gun was still wet and functioning after 700 rounds suppressed. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 8:50:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Luny421]
[#10]
What lube are you using?
ETA beat by 11 seconds…I use Slip 2000 EWL-30 and EWG |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 9:39:08 PM EDT
[#11]
1. use bearing grease instead of lube on the BCG rails and CH and lube the cam pin hole very well
2. get a Microbest Chrome BCG....I drank the Koolaid and I can't recommend it enough 3. stop using shit ammo...no steel case, and try to stick with 5.56 pressure 4. use a mil spec spring (or better yet a Geissele 42 spring and buffer combo). Stop trying to get a soft recoil response and "perfect ejection" when it's pristine clean. It'll choke when it's dirty and cold. Just learn to manage recoil. If it ejects, then it's perfect. My BRT'd 11.5 was a dream to shoot clean and choked with it was cold and dirty. Now I use better gassed barrels and stick with stock components. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2024 9:58:15 PM EDT
[#12]
I had issues after only a few mags when I was using Hoppes gun oil. It just burned off way too fast and the first issue I’d have was the bolt release would stick and not drop the bolt. I switched to 10w-40 and now I have no issues. Most I’ve ever done without cleaning is 450ish in an afternoon.
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Posted: 3/28/2024 10:09:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History[b] 2. get a Microbest Chrome BCG....I drank the Koolaid and I can't recommend it enough . I'm not saying you need to run out and buy one or even that it will help with your issue, but I put one of these in my most recent AR I put together and I don't have much interest in using anything else in the future. I'm not going to start replacing the other ones I have. They're all well made (TC and BCM), but future ones will be more Chrome microbests. They clean up super easy and do what they should. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:40:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DVCNick: Also, the sprinco red sounds like a LOT of spring for a 223 AR. Have you tried it with good milspec level spring? Milspec ejected forward. WAY forward. Like 12:15 forward, with rounds occasionally getting stuck on the way out, as the bolt closed and pinched it between the upper and the bolt on its way closed with the new round. Blue was marginally better. Moved to like 1:30 / 2. Red made it 3/3:30. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:44:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By campower: No, this is not typical of a well running AR in my experience of a dozen or so suppresed ARs in various calibers. 1.) You said you just install the new barrel ans gas block. Are you 100% the install was done correctly? A misaligned gas block even a little can make your gun more sensitive to being dirty. I'm not familiar with Centurious specs but is it an adjustable gas block? 2.) AMMO! What ammo are you using? I've used shitty ammo that would soot up the cleanest gun three mags or so. Ever seen a suppressed gun using CFE223 powder? It's like wet mud through everything. You didnt mention and this is important. 3.) Did you shoot it after cleaning? All better? Was it one magazine that failed or multiple? Did you try another mag after the failures to isolate? I've honestly never had an issue with suppressed ARs, but I also clean then when they are dirty. Thanks for the reply. 1) Gas block is 100% aligned. Centurion uses a tabbed alignment system, guarantees alignment. Non adjustable. 2) Shitty M193. Winchester USA. Definitely not helping. 3) I was only scheduled for 210 rounds today, primary focus was handgun work. One magazine failed, I have them numbered and that particular mag has never been an issue. Somewhere around 600 on that magazine. Was the last mag of the day. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:45:50 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By topgunpilot20: What lube are you using? I've had some like BreakFree CLP and Lucas burn off in as little at 150 rounds suppressed and cause the malfunctions you're describing. Additional lube solved the problem. I've had the best results with Slip 2000 EWL. Same gun, can, ammo, and firing schedule, and the gun was still wet and functioning after 700 rounds suppressed. I used gunbutter, ALG go juice, and some grease. |
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Posted: 3/28/2024 11:58:04 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HimIOwe: Thanks for the reply. 1) Gas block is 100% aligned. Centurion uses a tabbed alignment system, guarantees alignment. Non adjustable. 2) Shitty M193. Winchester USA. Definitely not helping. 3) I was only scheduled for 210 rounds today, primary focus was handgun work. One magazine failed, I have them numbered and that particular mag has never been an issue. Somewhere around 600 on that magazine. Was the last mag of the day. Man that's frustrating! New build with the last magazine too...wow I certainly don't think you need a new BCG, or anything dramatic for that matter. Almost too hard to pinpoint without a chance to follow-up. Start simple and cheap. If it make it 200 flawless rounds unless it's some new powder of legendary shit caliber it's extremely unlikely it would all of a sudden just crap itself two rounds in a row. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 12:09:42 AM EDT
[#18]
Should run thousands of rounds suppressed if you're gassed and springed properly to run dirty, but you will need to add lube periodically. For my tuned-for-soft-shooting guns I clean every 200-300-ish rounds just to be sure.
I did 2k+, and probably closer to 3k, suppressed between cleanings a few years ago as a test using only Breakfree CLP before the gun (12.5 carbine with generous gas port) finally had a FTF with steel cased wolf shit ammo. But you've gotta keep adding lube during that time. Squirt some into the action and cycle it a few times.  Attached File Attached File |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 12:45:59 AM EDT
[#19]
Not sure I’ve ever cleaned mine, been at least 1k rounds.dead air on a 10.5” AR. VLTOR A5 H3 with a dead air sandman. Rest of the rifle is vanilla.
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Posted: 3/29/2024 1:02:02 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Primetime_1: 1. use bearing grease instead of lube on the BCG rails and CH and lube the cam pin hole very well 2. get a Microbest Chrome BCG....I drank the Koolaid and I can't recommend it enough 3. stop using shit ammo...no steel case, and try to stick with 5.56 pressure 4. use a mil spec spring (or better yet a Geissele 42 spring and buffer combo). Stop trying to get a soft recoil response and "perfect ejection" when it's pristine clean. It'll choke when it's dirty and cold. Just learn to manage recoil. If it ejects, then it's perfect. My BRT'd 11.5 was a dream to shoot clean and choked with it was cold and dirty. Now I use better gassed barrels and stick with stock components. Appreciate the insight. I actually replaced a G Super 42 H2 setup in this because the ejection pattern was way overgassed - just like the milspec spring, rounds failing to eject because the bolt closed on an empty round halfway out of the gun. I may go to a Sprinco Blue - but I didn’t buy the red to get it to shoot softer, 5.56 doesn’t recoil enough for recoil management or “softer shooting” for me. Just trying to find a combination of buffer weight / spring tension that will give me 100% reliable, all the time. I assume the suppressor adds enough backpressure it’s causing the overgassing I’m seeing. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 1:05:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By topgunpilot20: What lube are you using? I've had some like BreakFree CLP and Lucas burn off in as little at 150 rounds suppressed and cause the malfunctions you're describing. Additional lube solved the problem. I've had the best results with Slip 2000 EWL. Same gun, can, ammo, and firing schedule, and the gun was still wet and functioning after 700 rounds suppressed. I just re-read this, thanks for the anecdotal information. I’ll try some Slip 2000, the ALG stuff has been less than impressive. It was free though 
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Posted: 3/29/2024 1:08:27 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By campower: Man that's frustrating! New build with the last magazine too...wow I certainly don't think you need a new BCG, or anything dramatic for that matter. Almost too hard to pinpoint without a chance to follow-up. Start simple and cheap. If it make it 200 flawless rounds unless it's some new powder of legendary shit caliber it's extremely unlikely it would all of a sudden just crap itself two rounds in a row. I would hope I don’t need to replace anything major - everything is reputable stuff - Centurion, FCD, Thoroughbred, Geissele, etc… I think I’m going to leave all the carbon in there, not even so much as wipe anything down lube the absolute piss out of it, take it out and try and get another 2-300 rounds downrange. I figure if the gas tube/buffer weight/buffer spring are the issue, I’ll have more FTF. If lack of lubrication is the issue, I feel like (in theory) I should be good to go with this approach and not see any issues. We’ll see. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 2:12:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: tspike]
[#23]
My last range outing I put right at 300 rds of Wolf 55gr through a relatively well used 1/7 16" upper and the carrier was slowing down to ftf.
eta: With factory brass I can go an entire session (500 rds) with no problems |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 2:17:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Scott]
[#24]
Certainly not inside a thousand rounds. Just add line.
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Posted: 3/29/2024 8:52:14 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HimIOwe: Appreciate the insight. I actually replaced a G Super 42 H2 setup in this because the ejection pattern was way overgassed - just like the milspec spring, rounds failing to eject because the bolt closed on an empty round halfway out of the gun. I may go to a Sprinco Blue - but I didn't buy the red to get it to shoot softer, 5.56 doesn't recoil enough for recoil management or "softer shooting" for me. Just trying to find a combination of buffer weight / spring tension that will give me 100% reliable, all the time. I assume the suppressor adds enough backpressure it's causing the overgassing I'm seeing. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HimIOwe: Originally Posted By Primetime_1: 1. use bearing grease instead of lube on the BCG rails and CH and lube the cam pin hole very well 2. get a Microbest Chrome BCG....I drank the Koolaid and I can't recommend it enough 3. stop using shit ammo...no steel case, and try to stick with 5.56 pressure 4. use a mil spec spring (or better yet a Geissele 42 spring and buffer combo). Stop trying to get a soft recoil response and "perfect ejection" when it's pristine clean. It'll choke when it's dirty and cold. Just learn to manage recoil. If it ejects, then it's perfect. My BRT'd 11.5 was a dream to shoot clean and choked with it was cold and dirty. Now I use better gassed barrels and stick with stock components. Appreciate the insight. I actually replaced a G Super 42 H2 setup in this because the ejection pattern was way overgassed - just like the milspec spring, rounds failing to eject because the bolt closed on an empty round halfway out of the gun. I may go to a Sprinco Blue - but I didn't buy the red to get it to shoot softer, 5.56 doesn't recoil enough for recoil management or "softer shooting" for me. Just trying to find a combination of buffer weight / spring tension that will give me 100% reliable, all the time. I assume the suppressor adds enough backpressure it's causing the overgassing I'm seeing. That could also explain why you're still seeing failures now after only a couple hundred rounds fired, as the bolt is slowing due to lube wearing off and debris accumulating. Slightly overgassed would lead me to expect improved unlubed/dirty performance due to bolt having the speed to "power through" some impediments. Either way, I like your plan of lube and more lube plus I'd encourage you to test out a lighter buffer/spring combo or two if you continue to experience early failures, ex. FTF after 100-200 suppressed rounds. Good luck! If you were close in AR I'd loan you an adjustable bcg, which is handy for figuring out if you're over or undergassed. Re: softer shooting, I actually do chase that now on one or two play guns. It's nice have the muzzle not move at all if you're shooting fast, but also correct-to-light gassing is OK for a non-SHTF gun for me because they stay cleaner longer and are better in terms internal parts wear. The rest I like at slightly higher gas for increased reliability shooting dirty and suppressed. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 9:15:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: topgunpilot20]
[#26]
Originally Posted By HimIOwe: After approximately 200 rounds into today's training, I had two back to back failure to feed. The round was working its way up the feed ramp, but got stuck. I want to reiterate that, based on the above statement, the issue is carbon build up between the bolt and inside of the carrier. Specifically, around the gas rings on the bolt. This carbon only builds up if this area is dry, and the solution is to keep it wet with lube. There is no need to replace any parts. For heavy firing sessions, periodically squirt lube through the two gas vent holes in the carrier through the ejection port which will get lube directly on the gas rings. How often you need to reapply depends on the lube you're using. Like a said above, poor lubes may need application every 150 rounds while better ones can go much longer between applications. It may be prudent to go ahead and clean off the built up carbon on your bolt before the next range session to give yourself a head start. Generally speaking, if you can't wipe your bolt clean with a napkin then you aren't using enough lube. ETA: On a side note, I've seen suppressors cook gas rings in less than 1000 rounds, so make sure to check your gas ring fitment every time you clean your rifle and have spares on hand in case they fail the seal test (balancing the BCG on the bolt face). |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 9:20:33 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 77Bronc: I will clean after 500 suppressed rounds, does not need it, but can use it |
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SC, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:29:00 AM EDT
[#28]
Based on what you've said, I agree it sounds highly likely that you are brutally overgassed.
Personally, I'm leery of "fixing" that via just adding way more recoil spring. It will work on the back stroke, but I've always thought that it has to be closing a lot faster than the original design intent, which may lead to who knows what issues. It would be a super high rate of fire in FA, maybe more bolt bounce, mag has to keep up, etc. If you continue to have issues, this sounds like one case where I might try a BRT tube and/or an A5 system. I've had good results from the A5 system with overgassed uppers, but I don't think any of mine have been this overgassed with an H2 buffer. I've never personally tried a BRT tube, but obviously they get good reviews, are cheap and easy, etc. ymmv and this advice may be worth what you paid for it, but that is just what I would do based on what you've said so far. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:35:07 AM EDT
[#29]
I'm in the camp of try a BRT gas tube. Not so choked down to create issues, but enough to reduce gas and carbon, then back to a Super 42 or mil spec buffer spring.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:36:35 AM EDT
[#30]
I'd also chrono if you can just to make sure the ammo seems to be performing where it should.
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Posted: 3/29/2024 10:44:47 AM EDT
[#31]
There are a lot of unknown variables to OP. Type and amount of lube is a key.
Also, PCR tends to get dirty quicker. I have had them pretty filthy, but they keep on running. I use Mobil 1.  |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 11:56:19 AM EDT
[#32]
I would find it hard to believe you are over gassed with a centurion arms barrel. I only have one, but the gas port is on the smaller side.
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VA, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 1:59:42 PM EDT
[#33]
Without knowing all of the variables and just looking at everything at face value with you being a new can owner my suggestion is to use a quality lube and keep it very wet. You can go for several K without cleaning however I tend to lube the bolt after every range day. I'm mostly shooting precision type stuff these days and range days are typically about 200 rounds for me lately. I almost never experience non ammo related malfunctions with this firing schedule. That being said even on 1k+ class weekends I don't normally experience that type of issue on the setups I run either, using sandman s/k cans. May have to add lube for day 2 but that's about it.
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Posted: 3/29/2024 2:58:41 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TGE: Are you certain it was overgassed? I personally haven't had a bolt outrun the ejected case with an H2 buffer. Not saying it's impossible, but your failure description could also indicate being undergassed and the failure could be due to bolt not reciprocating fully and thus closing early because it didn't travel back far enough during its cycle. That could also explain why you're still seeing failures now after only a couple hundred rounds fired, as the bolt is slowing due to lube wearing off and debris accumulating. Slightly overgassed would lead me to expect improved unlubed/dirty performance due to bolt having the speed to "power through" some impediments. Either way, I like your plan of lube and more lube plus I'd encourage you to test out a lighter buffer/spring combo or two if you continue to experience early failures, ex. FTF after 100-200 suppressed rounds. Good luck! If you were close in AR I'd loan you an adjustable bcg, which is handy for figuring out if you're over or undergassed. Re: softer shooting, I actually do chase that now on one or two play guns. It's nice have the muzzle not move at all if you're shooting fast, but also correct-to-light gassing is OK for a non-SHTF gun for me because they stay cleaner longer and are better in terms internal parts wear. The rest I like at slightly higher gas for increased reliability shooting dirty and suppressed. I hadn’t thought about that, that’s a really good point. The H2 and quality of Centurion barrels lead me to believe I could be undergassed. Either way, I need to lube it up like crazy and go shoot again. I’ll know for sure then. Thanks all. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 3:00:28 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Tug153: I would find it hard to believe you are over gassed with a centurion arms barrel. I only have one, but the gas port is on the smaller side. That’s what I thought too, but my ejection pattern says otherwise. Or at least, as I understand it does. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 3:02:13 PM EDT
[#36]
Tons of really good insight here gents, thank you. Will re-lube, shoot a few hundred, and report back.
If that’s not it, I’m going to try a Sprinco Blue and see if I over corrected the perceived overgassing and am now undergassed (or overdone on the buffer spring) leading to early failure in a dirty gun. Appreciate the expertise. |
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Posted: 3/29/2024 3:09:23 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HimIOwe: That’s what I thought too, but my ejection pattern says otherwise. Or at least, as I understand it does. Ejection pattern is only a small piece to that puzzle and by itself not an indicator of how well the rifle is running. The malfunction you are experiencing is likely due to the red spring and the rifle getting dirty and dry. I would be almost certain it would run with a standard carbine spring. You can snag a Colt spring off Brownells for less than $10. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2024 3:36:12 PM EDT
[#38]
Red spring is way too much for that barrel. Try a milspec spring and I’d bet your problem goes away.
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Posted: 3/29/2024 4:23:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jhon: Ejection pattern is only a small piece to that puzzle and by itself not an indicator of how well the rifle is running. The malfunction you are experiencing is likely due to the red spring and the rifle getting dirty and dry. I would be almost certain it would run with a standard carbine spring. You can snag a Colt spring off Brownells for less than $10. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jhon: Originally Posted By HimIOwe: That's what I thought too, but my ejection pattern says otherwise. Or at least, as I understand it does. Ejection pattern is only a small piece to that puzzle and by itself not an indicator of how well the rifle is running. The malfunction you are experiencing is likely due to the red spring and the rifle getting dirty and dry. I would be almost certain it would run with a standard carbine spring. You can snag a Colt spring off Brownells for less than $10. If I had to bet $1, I'd guess a lower power buffer spring will help. |
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NV, USA
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Posted: 3/30/2024 10:19:46 AM EDT
[#40]
Spring o Red is 25% stronger than mil spec.
Blue is 15% stronger than mil spec. If you’re going to clean it more often, or lube it up more frequently you’re probably okay with the spring. Otherwise the red will maybe get what you want. Get a mil spec one while you’re there and see how many rounds you can go suppressed. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 3/31/2024 7:33:52 PM EDT
[#41]
I don't care about ejection angle if it runs 100%
I clean after every 1 or 2 range sessions regardless. Overkill? Most likely, but I like the peace of mind |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/1/2024 7:10:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DevL]
[#42]
Jesus you guys are all over with the advice...
1. Is your ejected brass dirty? Covered in soot all over? If so, you are over gassed and/or under weighted. If not, your carrier and buffer weight are fine. 2. Ejection pattern. Anything consistantly forward of 3:00 is over gassed. This can be a high back pressure can that needs a smaller gas port (or reduction in gas somehow). Normally, there are 1% odds are that you need a heavier spring for your full mass carrier and H3 buffer. But you are already using a red spring. More likely you are inducing an issue with excess spring pressure than not enough. There is no reason to go Springco red if you are not maxed on weight IMO. It causes more problems than it solves. If this is a brand new barrel, I discount all malfunctions as part of breaking in the first 200 rounds. My advice is to clean, don't use grease inside the upper, use a high quality CLP, and try again without an enhanced buffer spring. Froglube is the slickest lube, but natural lubes get sticky and thicken with age if left in the gun for long. Froglube killed the cycling of every one of my department's Benelli shotguns one year. I have avoided it since. I am a big believer that grease attracts carbon and does not stay where you want it. It just won't stay only on your rails. It will be everywhere else. Use more CLP in the inside of the bolt and on the head of your bolt intermittently during down time. But solve over gassing or under massing first. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 2:47:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DevL: Jesus you guys are all over with the advice... 1. Is your ejected brass dirty? Covered in soot all over? If so, you are over gassed and/or under weighted. If not, your carrier and buffer weight are fine. 2. Ejection pattern. Anything consistantly forward of 3:00 is over gassed. This can be a high back pressure can that needs a smaller gas port (or reduction in gas somehow). Normally, there are 1% odds are that you need a heavier spring for your full mass carrier and H3 buffer. But you are already using a red spring. More likely you are inducing an issue with excess spring pressure than not enough. There is no reason to go Springco red if you are not maxed on weight IMO. It causes more problems than it solves. If this is a brand new barrel, I discount all malfunctions as part of breaking in the first 200 rounds. My advice is to clean, don't use grease inside the upper, use a high quality CLP, and try again without an enhanced buffer spring. Froglube is the slickest lube, but natural lubes get sticky and thicken with age if left in the gun for long. Froglube killed the cycling of every one of my department's Benelli shotguns one year. I have avoided it since. I am a big believer that grease attracts carbon and does not stay where you want it. It just won't stay only on your rails. It will be everywhere else. Use more CLP in the inside of the bolt and on the head of your bolt intermittently during down time. But solve over gassing or under massing first. The ejected brass is FILTHY. The ammo in the top of the mag is FILTHY. Soot all over the ejection port cover, as well as out the side of the upper/lower. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 11:36:27 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RangeToy: I don't care about ejection angle if it runs 100% I clean after every 1 or 2 range sessions regardless. Overkill? Most likely, but I like the peace of mind Ejection angle gives indication on parts wear and future reliability. I've settled on 3 o'clock being the best to accommodate a little weaker ammo |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 4/2/2024 8:23:52 PM EDT
[#45]
Two drops of quality lube in the bolt carrier holes every couple hundred rounds will stop your issues.
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PA, USA
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Posted: 4/2/2024 9:27:04 PM EDT
[#46]
No problems using Weapon SHield, CLP or red Lucas oil.
Just picked up some slip EWL to see if it lasts longer. |
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Posted: 4/2/2024 10:48:59 PM EDT
[#47]
I shot my Noveske at a 4 day class to the tune of 300-400 rounds a day for the entire class with no cleaning. I just used grease and dumped some extra CLP on it at the beginning of the day.
It was very dirty at the end. |
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