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Posted: 1/25/2024 9:23:08 AM EDT
Good morning all I am a first time builder and rarely post but use this forum alot.

I have been trying to tighten my castle nut and my first mistake is without a vice...but I have this

Real Avid Master Fit Extended & Standard Castle Nut Wrench AVMFESCNW to fit on my torque wrench and all it does is slip off my castle nut and mar my threads and nut no matter how hard i try to keep it on.  
This forum has taken about the magpul, hammerhead, BCM which looks like mine, and Brownell.  And I am just looking for any advice on these wrenches or if a vice would have helped more or just this castle nut in general.

Thanks all.
Peace
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 9:31:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Tejas1836] [#1]
Make sure the wrench is facing the correct way, I've done that before and a closed end wrench works better
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 9:40:36 AM EDT
[#2]
A bench vise is essential. You'll not reach proper torque without a vise or jig.
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 9:53:11 AM EDT
[#3]
-Always use a vise and vise block. Magpul BEV Block works well as it has a steel I-beam running through it. It will not flex.
-Place your wrench correctly on the castle nut.
-Install a stock on the receiver extension.
-Slide the stock up against the wrench to keep it squared up and in place.
-Correct torque is 40ft/lb, but at that torque the receiver will start to flex if it is only held to the vise by the magwell. Approach this value with caution.
-Stake the end plate into the castle nut in 2 places.
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 10:00:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bebop_941] [#4]
+1 to use a vise.  These are what I use:


This eliminates any flex and keeps your receiver extension from rotating as you torque the castle nut.

Link Posted: 1/25/2024 10:19:50 AM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By TGWLDR:
A bench vise is essential. You'll not reach proper torque without a vise or jig.
View Quote

Originally Posted By sgtlmj:
-Always use a vise and vise block. Magpul BEV Block works well as it has a steel I-beam running through it. It will not flex.
-Place your wrench correctly on the castle nut.
-Install a stock on the receiver extension.
-Slide the stock up against the wrench to keep it squared up and in place.
-Correct torque is 40ft/lb, but at that torque the receiver will start to flex if it is only held to the vise by the magwell. Approach this value with caution.
-Stake the end plate into the castle nut in 2 places.
View Quote
I was coming here to say Not only a Vice, but the proper Receiver Vice Block or Jig as well.
This will help protect the receiver from being warped/damaged and the protect the finish some too.

But these guys beat me to the point.
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 11:02:56 AM EDT
[#6]
Don't forget to stake it, too!
Link Posted: 1/25/2024 2:05:31 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sgtlmj:
-Always use a vise and vise block. Magpul BEV Block works well as it has a steel I-beam running through it. It will not flex.
-Place your wrench correctly on the castle nut.
-Install a stock on the receiver extension.
-Slide the stock up against the wrench to keep it squared up and in place.
-Correct torque is 40ft/lb, but at that torque the receiver will start to flex if it is only held to the vise by the magwell. Approach this value with caution.
-Stake the end plate into the castle nut in 2 places.
View Quote



Thank you all for the help and advice!!  I know this topic has been done alot so I appreciate the help and advice.
Link Posted: 2/19/2024 12:26:38 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Motorcycleman90:



Thank you all for the help and advice!!  I know this topic has been done alot so I appreciate the help and advice.
View Quote


Use an automatic center punch to stake the castle nut. Its far easier than trying to use a hammer and punch. I have a Starrett but you can get them at Harbor Freight very cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 7:04:26 PM EDT
[#9]



I use the VISM Lower Receiver Vise block like another guy above does. But I've made some of my own mods to it to make it even better. I use VB with Forward Controls Castle Nut wrench & a special vise block spacer made specifically for this block & wrench that basically wedges the wrench in place so there's no chance of slippage & marring. (SuppressorTools.com makes the spacer out of 3d printed nylon/CF and calls it the "Reaction Block Spacer for Forward Controls Design Castle Nut Socket") These items make for perfect installs everytime. If you want simple fast staking that's done perfect each time in a matter of 15secs buy the "Echo Zulu Castle Nut Kit & Staking Jig). Just my 2cents
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 10:35:10 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Cunningham1420:
https://imageshack.com/i/poEcEB1Zj


I use the VISM Lower Receiver Vise block like another guy above does. But I've made some of my own mods to it to make it even better. I use VB with Forward Controls Castle Nut wrench & a special vise block spacer made specifically for this block & wrench that basically wedges the wrench in place so there's no chance of slippage & marring. (SuppressorTools.com makes the spacer out of 3d printed nylon/CF and calls it the "Reaction Block Spacer for Forward Controls Design Castle Nut Socket") These items make for perfect installs everytime. If you want simple fast staking that's done perfect each time in a matter of 15secs buy the "Echo Zulu Castle Nut Kit & Staking Jig). Just my 2cents
View Quote


I’m a fan of a handful of the FCD items but not of their castle nut wrench.  Mine slipped multiple times and marred a castle nut badly and ruined the wrench.  It slips too easily IMO.
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 11:01:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 556Cliff] [#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By QtrHorse:


I’m a fan of a handful of the FCD items but not of their castle nut wrench.  Mine slipped multiple times and marred a castle nut badly and ruined the wrench.  It slips too easily IMO.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By QtrHorse:
Originally Posted By Cunningham1420:
https://imageshack.com/i/poEcEB1Zj


I use the VISM Lower Receiver Vise block like another guy above does. But I've made some of my own mods to it to make it even better. I use VB with Forward Controls Castle Nut wrench & a special vise block spacer made specifically for this block & wrench that basically wedges the wrench in place so there's no chance of slippage & marring. (SuppressorTools.com makes the spacer out of 3d printed nylon/CF and calls it the "Reaction Block Spacer for Forward Controls Design Castle Nut Socket") These items make for perfect installs everytime. If you want simple fast staking that's done perfect each time in a matter of 15secs buy the "Echo Zulu Castle Nut Kit & Staking Jig). Just my 2cents


I’m a fan of a handful of the FCD items but not of their castle nut wrench.  Mine slipped multiple times and marred a castle nut badly and ruined the wrench.  It slips too easily IMO.


This is the best one I've come across. > Link.

Glad I got mine when I did because last I heard is that they won't sell anything to people in Washington anymore.
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 11:03:24 PM EDT
[#12]
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 11:10:16 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TGWLDR:
https://classified-defense.com/ultimate-castle-nut-wrench.html

Everything he sells is quality.
View Quote



Great link
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 3:40:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By QtrHorse:


I’m a fan of a handful of the FCD items but not of their castle nut wrench.  Mine slipped multiple times and marred a castle nut badly and ruined the wrench.  It slips too easily IMO.
View Quote


Agreed, there must be a reason its on its 3rd redesign.
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 3:40:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: OTDR] [#15]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By 556Cliff:


This is the best one I've come across. > Link.

Glad I got mine when I did because last I heard is that they won't sell anything to people in Washington anymore.
View Quote



This is the best of all designs I have tested.
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 3:42:20 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TGWLDR:
https://classified-defense.com/ultimate-castle-nut-wrench.html

Everything he sells is quality.
View Quote



I have not tested this one, but it does NOT look user friendly for jigs.
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 3:58:52 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:



I have not tested this one, but it does NOT look user friendly for jigs.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:
Originally Posted By TGWLDR:
https://classified-defense.com/ultimate-castle-nut-wrench.html

Everything he sells is quality.



I have not tested this one, but it does NOT look user friendly for jigs.

Yeah, you that use the jigs likely won't be interested.
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 3:59:07 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:



I have not tested this one, but it does NOT look user friendly for jigs.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:
Originally Posted By TGWLDR:
https://classified-defense.com/ultimate-castle-nut-wrench.html

Everything he sells is quality.



I have not tested this one, but it does NOT look user friendly for jigs.

Yeah, you that use the jigs likely won't be interested.
Link Posted: 2/29/2024 4:10:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:


Agreed, there must be a reason its on its 3rd redesign.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By OTDR:
Originally Posted By QtrHorse:


I’m a fan of a handful of the FCD items but not of their castle nut wrench.  Mine slipped multiple times and marred a castle nut badly and ruined the wrench.  It slips too easily IMO.


Agreed, there must be a reason its on its 3rd redesign.



Are you having this issue on the 2 tab side?
Link Posted: 3/1/2024 10:27:07 AM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Jnat:



Are you having this issue on the 2 tab side?
View Quote


I had the issue with both sides.  For the record, the issue happened with FCD castle nuts and Damage Industry castle nuts.
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 5:15:47 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mark9000:


Use an automatic center punch to stake the castle nut. Its far easier than trying to use a hammer and punch. I have a Starrett but you can get them at Harbor Freight very cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mark9000:
Originally Posted By Motorcycleman90:



Thank you all for the help and advice!!  I know this topic has been done alot so I appreciate the help and advice.


Use an automatic center punch to stake the castle nut. Its far easier than trying to use a hammer and punch. I have a Starrett but you can get them at Harbor Freight very cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html


OK, this might be one of those dumb questions, but there are probably a whole bunch of other people out there wondeing the same thing. I have never staked a castle nut. I have used blue locktite on the end threads though, specifically in case I needed to get the nut off. If you stake the nut, how do you get it off?
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 5:41:59 PM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronin72:


OK, this might be one of those dumb questions, but there are probably a whole bunch of other people out there wondeing the same thing. I have never staked a castle nut. I have used blue locktite on the end threads though, specifically in case I needed to get the nut off. If you stake the nut, how do you get it off?
View Quote


Its easy, just use an armorers wrench, the staked nut will turn right thru the staking with little extra effort.
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 5:47:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: lazyengineer] [#23]
I'll be honest, this step is way more tricky that people give it credit for.  Yes, I've done way more castle nuts between my knees with the pistol grip as the cantilever than I care to admit.  But that wrench has to be super square and level with that nut, or you are going to slip and mar shit up.   The two things I learned are my friend on this: 1) You don't have to give it every bit of tourque you can possibly muster.  About as much as you can take as a soft-handed white guy holding it in your knees, is about right.  2) blue loctite is your fiend.  I never stake.

Intersting to see some of the more Profesional exotic tools and jigs Posted- I never knew they even existed.  Though aside from a commercial assbler, that's a bit much for most home builders I would imagine.
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 6:00:10 PM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronin72:


OK, this might be one of those dumb questions, but there are probably a whole bunch of other people out there wondeing the same thing. I have never staked a castle nut. I have used blue locktite on the end threads though, specifically in case I needed to get the nut off. If you stake the nut, how do you get it off?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ronin72:
Originally Posted By mark9000:
Originally Posted By Motorcycleman90:



Thank you all for the help and advice!!  I know this topic has been done alot so I appreciate the help and advice.


Use an automatic center punch to stake the castle nut. Its far easier than trying to use a hammer and punch. I have a Starrett but you can get them at Harbor Freight very cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html


OK, this might be one of those dumb questions, but there are probably a whole bunch of other people out there wondeing the same thing. I have never staked a castle nut. I have used blue locktite on the end threads though, specifically in case I needed to get the nut off. If you stake the nut, how do you get it off?


You unscrew it.  Every staked nut I've ever touched blew through the stake like it wasn't even there at all.  Which is partly why I don't think much on them.  I think the type of guy who stakes is the type of guy who torqued, and its the torque that's holding it together.  JMHO, I have nothing to back that up.
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 9:47:44 PM EDT
[#25]
I'd bet a staked castle nut is easier to remove than blue loctite, but either will work and ive had some staked ones that fought me. No clue why. It's not as big a deal as the internet makes it sound. You just need a little something to ensure things don't back off. Bubblegum or duct tape could probably do it. I prefer staking to loctite, but that's just my opinion.
Link Posted: 3/11/2024 9:52:31 PM EDT
[#26]
I’ve never had a problem with the DPMS multi tool for castle nut work

Link Posted: 3/11/2024 11:13:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Colt Factory Castle Nut Staking Vs the Magpul Armorers Wrench
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 4:00:52 AM EDT
[#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By mark9000:


Use an automatic center punch to stake the castle nut. Its far easier than trying to use a hammer and punch. I have a Starrett but you can get them at Harbor Freight very cheap:

https://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
View Quote


I've been doing it this way as well and it works great.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 6:32:48 AM EDT
[#29]
Removing a staked AR-15 castle nut is a non issue.

Loctite will require heat in most instances.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 10:35:46 PM EDT
[#30]
I use a vise, Geissele Reaction Block, froward controls design Joint Castle nut Wrench and a Mayhew 5/32x4 1/2 punch to stake the castle nut in two places. I will also use a little Aeroshell 64 Grease on the buffer tube threads and torque to proper specs.

Never ever use loctite on the castle nut, it can cause a lot of issues if you ever need to remove the castle nut in the future. A proper torqued and staked castle nut is very easy removed with the correct tools.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 11:08:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: lazyengineer] [#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sphillips:
I use a vise, Geissele Reaction Block, froward controls design Joint Castle nut Wrench and a Mayhew 5/32x4 1/2 punch to stake the castle nut in two places. I will also use a little Aeroshell 64 Grease on the buffer tube threads and torque to proper specs.

Never ever use loctite on the castle nut, it can cause a lot of issues if you ever need to remove the castle nut in the future. A proper torqued and staked castle nut is very easy removed with the correct tools.
View Quote


No it doesn't.

Use blue loctite,  and it'll be just fine, and readily removable when and if you ever need in the future.

Honestly, people way overthink the need for staking,  and overthink how well staking actually works (which is mostly Meh).  No reason to use red loctite or anything so aggressive.  And don't slather any loctite too bad, or you'll jack up the spring loaded buffer detent thing.

This isn't that complicated or hard.  You can do this people.  Hardest part of the whole process is the stupid detent spring for the rear takedown pin that takes a touch of care screwing down on the plate.  After that, make sure to break cleaner the buffer threads.  A little blue locktotite ( a couple drops will do).  Pinch the lower between you legs with the pistol grip secured.  Apply the wrench nice and square to the castle nut.  Slowly 2-hand tighten, with one hand on the wrench engagement area pushing it down square against the nut.

Annndd. Done.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 11:23:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By lazyengineer:

Hardest part of the whole process is the stupid detent spring for the rear takedown pin that takes a touch of care screwing down on the plate.
View Quote
I highly recommend investing in a 4-40 tap and some 4-40x1/8" set screws.  Use the tap to thread the rear detent spring hole.  Trim about 3/16" off the detent spring then install the set screw to hold the rear detent and spring in place.  

voila!! No more dicking around with the detent spring while installing the buffer tube and endplate.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 11:30:15 PM EDT
[#33]
Vise with soft jaws… I just clamp the reiver in the jaws.

I find the BCM barrel nut wrench is the easiest. You can hold the receiver extension and keep pressure with your hand.
Link Posted: 3/12/2024 11:51:26 PM EDT
[#34]
So much ado about nothing....
Link Posted: 3/14/2024 12:51:10 AM EDT
[#35]
I guess I missed the part in the Army TM saying to use loctite on the castle nut  instead of using molybdenum disulfide grease, torque to 38-42 ft/lbs and stake the castle in two spot's
Link Posted: 3/14/2024 5:37:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: tooly] [#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History

Is this better then the magpul one?
Link Posted: 3/14/2024 9:09:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WrenchGuy] [#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History


Dude, thanks for posting this!

I've never seen one before so I had to get one ASAP.
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