Need an opinion.. Just finished a build and have been in the mood to upgrade most components. (Which has been done except safety selector and trigger) What does everyone prefer when it comes to upgrading your safety selector? One with a screw type or just don’t do it and stick with the mil-spec selector?

Mil-Spec works. But, it's Mil-Spec.

I prefer the Radian Talon. Doesn't screw together. It uses spring loaded pins in the axle.

Comes apart easy enough for cleaning. Goes together easy enough once you get the hang of it.

ETA: For a trigger, might I suggest a Geissele SD-C or a SSA-E X. If you don't like flat triggers, then a Geissele SSA-E.

for Steel Challenge rimfire rifle I use my SBR with a 9" Cmmg dedicated barrel and conversion... I have an exposed hex head cap screw selector that is Loctited in place with a LaRue MBT 2S trigger... I like the flat face of the trigger for precise shot breaks as the short gun swings ... the large hex head cap screw allows more torque when tightening, I start each run with the safety on to give my conscious mind something to do while the gun is coming up off the low ready mark

Rock Island Star safety on all my builds. Love it. Nothing else so easy to use.

FCD is the best feeling safety I’ve ever used.  Every single one has been smooth and more importantly, positive.

I prefer the 50* but they have a 90* if you want full throw.

It’s so good I put one in every single AR I own, and I’m not usually one to splurge on unneeded small accessories.

I know I will get completely flamed for this suggestion, but I highly recommend the UTG Ambi Safety Selector.
Yes, Radian will be highly recommended by nearly everyone as the standard, but after trying that selector on two different builds, I finally threw it in my parts bin. It felt draggy (I know you know that feeling) no matter how I polished or lubed it, and it was never as smooth and snappy, as the two UTGs I use, or the mil-spec I have on another build.
Radian, you're out! (and stay out)
UTG or mil-spec, you're in!

Everyone or nearly everyone is going to have a different answer for this.

While yes, the OEM mispec works and is effective and cheap, it's not as effective otherwise people wouldn't be seeking a better mousetrap. making OEM just cheap.

I'm also another dissatisfied Radian Talon user. Felt cheap and flimsy to use so I went to see about something else and that quest has been fulfilled when I came across the FCD ASF-90. Just a fair warning, FCD products are not cheap at all but once you buy one that part becomes a gateway drug into buying a whole lot more of the same or other things.

And I indeed have tried the cheaper alternatives but nothing has come close, although the Geissele Posi Snap comes close and I have heard that the similar priced to the ASF is the Badger Ordinance C1.

Thank you for posting that.


Now I feel totally mainstream,  posting that I like the Strike Industries Flip Switch.

https://gun.deals/product/strike-industries-flip-switch-low-profile-ambi-safety-selector-3595

I just installed a Geissele ambi Posi-snap safety in a new build and really like it.  It has the style of a milspec safety with a short left side lever.  The posi-snap design is nice IMO, you can't really "stall" the lever midway between safe and fire, it's like the grooves are ramped to each position so once it gets past the mid point of travel, it snaps into the next position very positively.

This.

These have always fascinated me because the design makes ergonomic sense, but they look bulky so I haven't been brave enough to try one.

They actually stick out less, and are shorter than standard levers.

Thats good to know- now I may have to get one.

battle arms short throws are my favorite. the older style were better than the newer ones. ive used the talon. they were ok.

if you want a cheap reliable one the stag ambi short combo is nice.

which is the same as this

The BAD-ASS safety is really nice, but I don't really want to spend that much on every rifle.

JBO has a $15 ambi safety that feels milspec and can be installed as a 90° or 60° lever.  It's my go-to option for most of my guns.
https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/JBO-AR-15-Ambidextrous-Safety-Selector-p/jb-ambi-safety.htm

Since it looks like safety options have been covered well beyond anything I could contribute, I’ll just mention that Brownell’s currently has a green Triggertech on sale for $170ish currently which I believe is the same as the Diamond line.

Also, Midway has the Triggertech limited edition Independence Day triggers for around the same price. Both seem like very nice triggers for the $

@Duffy, the older ones were your designs until BAD decided to change directions with things, right?

BAD's safety wasn't just my design, it was my former partner's too.

After leaving BAD to start FCD, we didn't make safeties for years, though a design existed and I knew what I'd do with the next one if we were to make them again.

In 2019 we started a joint project with SOLGW,.  ASF incorporates several lessons I learned while designing, manufacturing and marketing safeties.

1. Just the long and short lever options.  Too many options confuse people.  Short lever would be wider than the long lever to compensate the loss of surface area.
2. Q levers.  For 90 degree ASF users, the offset lever (offset towards the rear) makes it possible for users to access the lever without breaking their grip.
3. No screws, external or internal.  Roll pins work very well, don't come loose, or shear.
4. Retain the 50 degree arrangement.  We (BAD at the time) went from 45 to 50 degree throw because with just the right combination of safety, trigger and receiver, a very hard pull on the trigger can cam the safety and rotate the safety from SAFE To FIRE and drop the hammer.
4. 50 and 90 degree will be separate safety centers, not reversible  A reversible safety center has both the short throw and 90 degree detent holes and grooves machined, but the user can only use one side at any given time, he would have paid for the extra machining he can't use.  
5. Steel components.  Aluminum levers probably work, polymer could work too, we want steel for all ASF parts so not one part is weaker than others.

We're glad ASF / The Quick (SOLGW designation) has caught on.  No gimmicks, it works well and has smooth rotation and positive detent engagement.  We went through a dozen prototypes before we were happy with that aspect, these $500 a pop prototypes were necessary and worth the cost.

Short lever is wider and can be seen here next to the long/standard lever.
Attached File


Q lever is off-center.  When the safety is on FIRE, the lever is closer to the rear, which makes it possible for most users to access it without breaking their grip.
Attached File

This safety and the trigger make their "Enhanced LPK w/o Grip" my favorite LPK.  Trigger is better than PSA's EPT....

Do you guys prefer ones with the screw in or ones without?

As someone in the process of upgrading most of my triggers, screw-in for sure.

Huh? Do you mean captive pins. Like you'd use on a "cassette" type trigger?

This, some more. It's not free, but once you try one of their products you'll understand why. I never understood why people bought expensive safety selectors. The mil-spec ones work just fine (and they do). If you're just looking for something that works, buy a quality "mil-spec" one. If you want something nice and don't mind paying a bit more, knowing that next month you'll have forgot about what would have probably bought your family pizza these days - Start here. Once you buy one of their parts and realize the effort that went into the simplest thing you'll want more.


Horrible pictures, but I just worked 12 hours with an hour and a half drive each way and I have to do it again in 5 hours. This is all the effort you get.

Thank you for the support

One thing I don't get is some think of our products as hype.  All of our products have detailed descriptions that go into why we did things differently, and what these functions are designed to perform.  Another is we "burst" onto the scene, this is our 9th year in operation, we didn't burst onto anything lol.

RE: ASF, like any other product, we don't do any marketing or advertising, it was introduced in 2020 at the start of the lockdowns.  Its reputation is spread through word of mouth.  No gimmicks with the lever attachment, it's a well thought out design, made in the most precise way we can muster (on Swiss machines, holding 0.001 tolerances in most places).

I was happy with my safety.  Until I read this thread.

I never had an issue with a std safety lever and still have them on a couple of guns, but after trying the FCD ones, they definitely feel cheap by comparison and eventually those ones will get them too.

An ambi safety is fantastic when running drills.

I don't want screws on my safety selector.

I'm a fan of the Q/Radian Talon with a 70° throw. I never felt comfortable with a 45/50° throw, seemed too short and unreliable.

I hate Ambi selectors.

Best I’ve found for me is the  Geissele Posi-Snap single side

So I went through my builds. Most are from whichever LPK I used (Aero/Strike/WMD/etc).  There are a few ambi safeties, Seekins and Strike Enhanced (hexagon).
I was not impressed with the Strike, it doesn't snap as clean as I would like.  The Seekins is fine.  
In some cases the Strike felt like the ambi was dragging on the right side of the grip.


So I ordered a FCD, UTG, Timber Creek and BAD ASS Pro from Primary Arms.  You bastards.

I will see what does and doesn't work for me. I also have an Expo I ordered previously.  I figure I can easily return what I don't like, since PA is local.

I will be focusing on the snap and overall smoothness of the operation.

Oh, and finally an SLX 3X micro.  The bonus bucks from that and the FCD almost equal another FCD.

They also put the SoLGW safety on sale, which I understand is the same as FCD.

I have 2 Radian non-ambi safeties I run in 45 degree throw and they're both great. But I snipped a hair off the springs to lighten up up the tension. A dab of Lucas Red n Tacky in the channel and gtg.

That said, you have talked me into trying one of these. I love good stuff cheap.

This one isn't working for me.  It works normally, then later it is taking ridiculous amounts of force to activate.
I don't get consistent action out of it.

I am cycling it back and forth and after a couple cycles, it feels as if it is locked and non functional.
Sometimes I can't get it to move unless I cycle the BCG.
This is with the short throw.  I had the long throw configured but didn't fully test it for reasons listed below.

I might try it in a different lower, with a different trigger, but it is really high on my shit list now.

But wait, it gets better.

I was doing this as part of a trigger swap, MBT -> TT Diamond.

So I originally thought it was incompatibility before I realized it was just ludicrous force needed.
There are notes on the TT website that some safety selectors might be incompatible.

I have removed the grip, loosened the snug down screws and removed the forward pin on the cassette, removed and reinstalled UTG,
tightened the snug down screws and reinstalled forward pin and reattached grip.

At least 4 freaking times, maybe 5.

That is also due to the very specific install instructions on the TT Diamond which require installing trigger halfway between safe and fire,
then finishing install.  So I thought maybe I didn't have it originally aligned right.  
Then after assembly I could get it to rotate to fire normally with a very crisp action.
But rotate to safe was/appeared blocked.

This infuriates me not just because of the time, but the wear on the forward trigger pin hole and the cycling on the TT Diamond snug down screws.

Using the Larue pins with the TT Diamond it was really loose.  I have some KNS pins and those gave some proper resistance.

So at this point, I have to decide how much value there could possibly be in ever trying to use this POS.



OTOH, it may be perfectly fine with another trigger.

I tried the BAD-ASS and it wasn't crisp.  I'll try it again.

I have the FCD and a Timber Creek to try next.

I also will not be testing with the TT Diamond, I'll go back to a MBT, since its too much hassle.

What I will also do is stop testing with an actual lower and find my Larue Trigger Action Chassis (practice lower) and use that.

That will eliminate wear on trigger holes.

Radian if you want a 45 degree or battle arms development for 90

I have the BAD ASS in, its good.

So I tried again with the UTG and got 90 to work, but the 45 doesn't.
Its the machining.

Attached File
Attached File

The 90 looks fine.


Attached File
Attached File

The 45 has shavings from me forcing it.

_________

I have also tried the FCD to a point. One side half pinned, the other is not.  But I can work it.

The machining and finishing is great.  The action is crisp and a bit stiffer than the BAD ASS.

I hate the stupid roll pins and consider them a (not so) brilliant solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
They mandate a bunch of extra fine work/hassle in a world where locktite exists.

I'm not new to safeties, and had long come to the conclusion roll pins were the best solution for the application.  We spent far more time on the detent holes and groove geometry, that was much harder to dial in.

SIG, HK, Bdager and LWRC have used roll pins for their safeties, it isn't a new concept but one we found to wrok best, better than screws (internal or internal), and spring loaded tensions.

Roll pins are a simple and elegant solution, the spring pins provide tension, as long as we keep a tight tolerance on the pin holes (+0.001/0.000), the pins stay put, they don't need to be tightened and retightened, don't need thread locker, or have a torque value, the installation falls on the user that may not use a torque wrench and introduce variables in the lever installation.

the old school bad levers.

but also stag short throws

Anybody tried the Elfmann Tactical Speed Safety?

I guess i'm the odd man out here, I still use plain ol safeties in all the AR's, they work just fine for the recreational shooting and occasional hunting I do.

I did, they are nicely made and work just fine, but it a bit odd using as I am used to disengaging the AR safety w/ my thumb and in this case it is done w/ your finger.  I suppose the guy with all traditional cross bolt safetys and one AR will do fine. But if you use both a lot (I do), you may get confused; I did.  I took it off and installed Odin Works, all the features of the big names but 1/2 or less the price.

I like the Colt/ Schmidt from Arms unlimited. One long arm, one short

I was just about to ask about any mil-spec looking ambis selectors. This fits the bill nicely, and is rather inexpensive.

Yeah, I like them and my left handed friend said they were nice.
Ordered two more yesterday along with a tlr7 light.

I like the Geissele for the "snap"

Mil-spec is perfectly ok with me too. Running a Battle Arms in 1 build and like that as well.

I run 90 degree on everything FWIW.

This.
I am partial to the LWRC ones.

Yes. It works...but only if your lower doesn't have loose safety detent tolerances or specs.  Because you push the safety instead of rotate it, the detent is what limits the travel left or right. If the detent hole is too close to the trigger pocket, or if the detent is loose, it allows the safety to over travel and ride against the side of the trigger.  That can cause drag or even jam the trigger if you ride the safety with your thumb or knuckle.  Tolerances in lowers and lower parts will have a big affect on this.  I've had it happen twice which is enough for me not to use their push button safety on any of my go to AR's.  They are a novel idea, but not one that I find reliable for SHTF.

I actually prefer a standard MIL-SPEC selector. I'm RH, but I do additionally train for LH use.

If the selector doesn't feel smooth and awesome, I polish the detent and grease its interface against the selector body and then it's good. Occasionally I've had to shorten the detent spring too, but generally not.

I reallllly wanted this, as I love the speed of the push button safety on my AUG. Safety is automatically swept off when trigger finger enters the trigger guard with the AUG.

However the Elfmann is the reverse of the AUG; its pushed Right to fire with the thumb vs Left to fire with the trigger finger for the AUG, which would defeat the common manual of arms.

Ditto. Well designed, feels positive, its nitrided, and has a pretty long track record as far as Ambi safety's go.

I like Ambi as a Right handed shooter because I switch to Fire with my thumb (normal AR style) but then use the reverse side to switch to Safe with my trigger finger, which I find a lot more ergonomic then trying to go from Fire to Safe with my thumb.