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Nice stick. I've always liked the reflex can setup on a FSP rifle. Do you have a sling?
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Slick, and I like that you didn't worry about the color matching game!
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Just what exactly is "light"? Pray tell. Looks like 10 lbs with the can on. But maybe not.
It is pretty sweet though. |
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Didn't you hear? The KMR is only good for safe queens and if you look at it wrong it'll break!
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Didn't you hear? The KMR is only good for safe queens and if you look at it wrong it'll break! View Quote Once it spray it with Aervoe it will be impervious to everything... With correctly-designed KeyMod accessories I have not run into any issues with either my Noveske NSR or BCM Gunfighter KeyMod handguards. |
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Just what exactly is "light"? Pray tell. Looks like 10 lbs with the can on. But maybe not. It is pretty sweet though. View Quote Just over 9.5 lbs with the can (no mag), which is definitely lighter than similar configs I've had in the past. In any event, it balances well and the KMR allows the weight to bias toward the rear. |
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I agree with this post! :) I too have settled on the 14.5, although mine is a BCM carbine gas...your stick is squared away!
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Pretty sure it's anodized. The caps are a slightly different color of anodize. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Very nice. Is that TA11 anodized FDE or cerakoted? Pretty sure it's anodized. The caps are a slightly different color of anodize. I thought it looked anodized. Never saw a TA11 anodized fde though. |
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The T-1 seems like extra weight. Have you tried learning how to reflex shoot through the ACOG with both eyes open? It takes a little practice to get used to it but it's doable.
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The T-1 seems like extra weight. Have you tried learning how to reflex shoot through the ACOG with both eyes open? It takes a little practice to get used to it but it's doable. View Quote I may try that, but there is a definite offset at close ranges between the reticle and your POI. Rolling to the Micro is super fast and easy and I can still use it even if I'm not planted on the stock. Plus, it's a secondary optic that backs up the ACOG and does not obscure the irons if I pop the ACOG off the rifle for some reason (damage, lenses fogged due to condensation, etc) and that same reason affects both optics. The Micro is just a couple of ounces and it brings a pretty decent set of capabilities to the rifle. |
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I think you'll be fine either way. I'd try practicing using the ACOG as a RDS with close in stuff just to give it a whirl. I resisted at first too but got better at it. It's been a while, so I'm sure I've lost it. Nice setup too.
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That's awesome man nice build .... But holy smokes you have a lot on that gun lol
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Nice set up O.P No ill intent with this question but how does a fully auto BCG soften recoil? Inertia from the slight weight gain?
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Nice set up O.P No ill intent with this question but how does a fully auto BCG soften recoil? Inertia from the slight weight gain? View Quote It works together with the MLGS and the buffer to damp out recoil. Another benefit is that you avoid early unlocking of the bolt. Add in the Geissele trigger and the gun just runs as smooth as silk. This rifle is much nicer to shoot than my 14.5" CLGS M4gery or my 12.5" SBR. |
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Looks real good. I want to put together a 10.5'' with elcan and offset rds some day when I win the lottery.
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Looks real good. I want to put together a 10.5'' with elcan and offset rds some day when I win the lottery. View Quote I wish Elcan would upgrade their mounting system. I've had a few Specter DRs over the years and I always end up selling them for two reasons: the mounts suck, and the 1x is still eyebox-sensitive and not really like a true RDS. This setup does sort of the same thing as a Specter DR, going from 3.5x to a true RDS-type 1x with the flick of the wrist. I believe this is why SOCOM puts a mini RDS on top of a 1x/4x scope: the 1x on the Specter DR is not as useful as 1x on a true RDS -- plus it's just faster to flick your eye to a separate scope vs flipping the DR lever to change magnification. |
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OP, at the end of the day...
Your rifle has a bunch of dicks on it. Just kidding OP, nice very nice rifle. |
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I like it. What about that random round that is loaded too weak or too hot? I wonder what the T1's glass will look like after it gets smacked super hard. Have you given any thought to moving the offset RDS forward on the receiver?
Once again, I really like the parts you put together. |
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I like it. What about that random round that is loaded too weak or too hot? I wonder what the T1's glass will look like after it gets smacked super hard. Have you given any thought to moving the offset RDS forward on the receiver? Once again, I really like the parts you put together. View Quote If a round is loaded too hot it will either cycle the action very violently or cause a kaboom. Not much I can do about that... A weak round may or may not cycle the action; again, not much I can do. So far, everything I've shot (Prvi 75gr .223, Southwest Ammo 75gr 5.56, Southwest Ammo 77gr 5.56, SSA 77gr 5.56) has worked perfectly, even in the WI cold. I have a setup with the Micro moved forward a bit but honestly it doesn't make all that much difference. I'll shoot the rifle with the Micro in its current position for now. If the Micro gets smacked hard enough to star or break the glass, I'll just have to replace it... And not do the thing that broke it again. Honestly though, after watching LAV try to destroy a T-1 I'm not all that concerned. |
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If a round is loaded too hot it will either cycle the action very violently or cause a kaboom. Not much I can do about that... A weak round may or may not cycle the action; again, not much I can do. So far, everything I've shot (Prvi 75gr .223, Southwest Ammo 75gr 5.56, Southwest Ammo 77gr 5.56, SSA 77gr 5.56) has worked perfectly, even in the WI cold. I have a setup with the Micro moved forward a bit but honestly it doesn't make all that much difference. I'll shoot the rifle with the Micro in its current position for now. If the Micro gets smacked hard enough to star or break the glass, I'll just have to replace it... And not do the thing that broke it again. Honestly though, after watching LAV try to destroy a T-1 I'm not all that concerned. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I like it. What about that random round that is loaded too weak or too hot? I wonder what the T1's glass will look like after it gets smacked super hard. Have you given any thought to moving the offset RDS forward on the receiver? Once again, I really like the parts you put together. If a round is loaded too hot it will either cycle the action very violently or cause a kaboom. Not much I can do about that... A weak round may or may not cycle the action; again, not much I can do. So far, everything I've shot (Prvi 75gr .223, Southwest Ammo 75gr 5.56, Southwest Ammo 77gr 5.56, SSA 77gr 5.56) has worked perfectly, even in the WI cold. I have a setup with the Micro moved forward a bit but honestly it doesn't make all that much difference. I'll shoot the rifle with the Micro in its current position for now. If the Micro gets smacked hard enough to star or break the glass, I'll just have to replace it... And not do the thing that broke it again. Honestly though, after watching LAV try to destroy a T-1 I'm not all that concerned. advantage of moving it forward is it actually increases the eye box.RDSs have a cone shaped eye box, the further you are away from it the larger it gets. No advantage with a normal cheek weld, comes in handy in unconventional shooting positions. |
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advantage of moving it forward is it actually increases the eye box.RDSs have a cone shaped eye box, the further you are away from it the larger it gets. No advantage with a normal cheek weld, comes in handy in unconventional shooting positions. View Quote Having the RDS farther out also makes it more sensitive to head position. You can lose the dot easier if your eye is farther away. This is especially true of the smaller "windowed" Micro vs something like a M4 or M4s. The extreme version of this is using a Micro on a pistol; you really have to practice guiding your eye to the dot at full arm extension. If you're talking about shooting urban prone or off your back, etc, then I'm not sure I'd want the RDS too far down the rifle because you'll be off cheekweld and often completely off the rifle with your face. Then again, there's always the possibility that I'm doing it wrong. |
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It works together with the MLGS and the buffer to damp out recoil. Another benefit is that you avoid early unlocking of the bolt. Add in the Geissele trigger and the gun just runs as smooth as silk. This rifle is much nicer to shoot than my 14.5" CLGS M4gery or my 12.5" SBR. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Nice set up O.P No ill intent with this question but how does a fully auto BCG soften recoil? Inertia from the slight weight gain? It works together with the MLGS and the buffer to damp out recoil. Another benefit is that you avoid early unlocking of the bolt. Add in the Geissele trigger and the gun just runs as smooth as silk. This rifle is much nicer to shoot than my 14.5" CLGS M4gery or my 12.5" SBR. I usually approach the recoil with a combo of a lighter buffer/ semi-auto bcg and an adjustable gas block. But whatever works right? Definitely a weapon I would like to have in hand when shtf |
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Quoted: I wish Elcan would upgrade their mounting system. I've had a few Specter DRs over the years and I always end up selling them for two reasons: the mounts suck, and the 1x is still eyebox-sensitive and not really like a true RDS.
This setup does sort of the same thing as a Specter DR, going from 3.5x to a true RDS-type 1x with the flick of the wrist. I believe this is why SOCOM puts a mini RDS on top of a 1x/4x scope: the 1x on the Specter DR is not as useful as 1x on a true RDS -- plus it's just faster to flick your eye to a separate scope vs flipping the DR lever to change magnification. View Quote Sadly, even the Elcan is not a true 1.0000000X. |
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Having the RDS farther out also makes it more sensitive to head position. You can lose the dot easier if your eye is farther away. This is especially true of the smaller "windowed" Micro vs something like a M4 or M4s. The extreme version of this is using a Micro on a pistol; you really have to practice guiding your eye to the dot at full arm extension. If you're talking about shooting urban prone or off your back, etc, then I'm not sure I'd want the RDS too far down the rifle because you'll be off cheekweld and often completely off the rifle with your face. Then again, there's always the possibility that I'm doing it wrong. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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advantage of moving it forward is it actually increases the eye box.RDSs have a cone shaped eye box, the further you are away from it the larger it gets. No advantage with a normal cheek weld, comes in handy in unconventional shooting positions. Having the RDS farther out also makes it more sensitive to head position. You can lose the dot easier if your eye is farther away. This is especially true of the smaller "windowed" Micro vs something like a M4 or M4s. The extreme version of this is using a Micro on a pistol; you really have to practice guiding your eye to the dot at full arm extension. If you're talking about shooting urban prone or off your back, etc, then I'm not sure I'd want the RDS too far down the rifle because you'll be off cheekweld and often completely off the rifle with your face. Then again, there's always the possibility that I'm doing it wrong. No, you're doing it right. For unconventional shooting positions especially - and particularlly with a mini red dot like the Aimpoint Micro - to the rear is the most useful location. I'm convinced that the propensity of red dots forward is due to monkey-see-monkey-do. We see HSLD guys running 'em forward without considering that one good reason for that is that they use night vision goggles and/or they're using ACOGs, which have very short eye relief (necessitating mounting further forward). |
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