One of the first questions to ask yourself is whether you're going for the most precise ammunition you can get or are you going for reasonably accurate ammunition that can be produced in bulk?  Also whether it's going to be for a single bolt rifle, multiple rifles, or in semi-automatic rifles.  These answers can influence equipment choices.

I load somewhat in bulk while going for reasonable accuracy, so my basic equipment is:

Dillon XL650 with casefeeder
One toolhead with my resizing die
Second toolhead with my powder die, powder check die, seating die, and if necessary, crimp die.
Dillon electronic scale
Calipers
bullet comparator to use with calipers for each caliber (used especially when seating bullets a specific distance from the lands for long-range precision)
Vibratory tumbler, walnut media for extremely dirty cases, corn cob to remove lube and for mostly clean cases
Case lube - I use Dillon's which is basically lanoline in alchohol, I've previously used Hornady One Shot, but some people have problems with it.  Imperial Sizing Wax is popular for lower volume rifle reloaders
Dies - I use a Redding adjustable seater die and RCBS sizing dies.  I'm feeding semi-autos so I fully resize cases instead of neck sizing them
I prime on the press, so no separate priming tool
Powder measure is the Dillon standard
Case trimmer - I have an older Lyman manually cranked, I use an RCBS X-die for my higher volume rifle loads
Primer pocket brush
Primer pocket swager if using GI brass
Primer pocket uniformer
Case mouth/neck deburring and chamber tool (VLD type)
Case tray for spraying lube (make sure you get it down in the neck, but not too much)

I do my loading in two passes - on the first, I clean the brass in the tumbler then lube it, run it through the press to deprime and resize it, then I tumble it to remove the lube, trim it if necessary, uniform the primer pocket (only needs doing the first time with a given set of brass), clean the primer pocket, chamfer/deburr the case mouth.  The second pass is where I actually prime the case, load powder, seat the bullet, and crimp it if necessary (usually not for what I'm shooting).  If I'm loading long-range ammunition, I'll have taken measurements of my barrel and used the bullet comparator with the calipers while adjusting the seating die to set the bullets for the desired amount of jump, which is usually determined when working up loads.  Different bullet styles prefer different amounts of jump, some people actually load so the bullet is lightly touching the lands, but that risks the bullet getting stuck in the barrel if you have to unload for some reason.

Precision shooters are frequently going to use a single stage press and will be taking additional steps to control how concentric the sized and loaded brass is, making sure everything is perfectly squared up.  There are entire books on the processes they use :-)

I'll slightly disagree, I started with a Dillon 550B, which served me well for two decades until I sold it to a friend so I could upgrade to a 650.  It's manually indexed, so you can slow down like with a single stage, but you've got the advantage of the toolheads so you only have to adjust dies once per caliber.  The DISadvantage is that if you lose track of operations, you can wind up double or not-charging a case, part of why I went to the 650 was the availability of the powder check die.  But I'll load 1000 rounds at a go once I've settled on a load I like, especially for handgun.  I need to work up some new 5.56mm loads, my old loads were based on using moly, which I stopped bothering with when I stopped shooting service rifle competition.

Most reloading classes (including the one I've taught at GT and TruPrep) are more geared towards handgun reloading, there are some additional considerations for reloading precision rifle (measuring concentricity/runout, adjusting seating for the right jump to the lands, primer pocket uniforming, etc...).  Heck, once finances recover from this period of being out of work, I'll be looking at a better case trimming setup (Giraud possibly) and an annealing setup, after I rebuild savings.

Bullet choice can be a consideration when choosing powders, but most can be used for a variety of bullet weights, they just might not be ideal for all of them.  My go-to powder for .308 is IMR 4895, but I also was buying it in 8lb cans, but it'll work fine for the 150-165 grain bullets I have, and also works in .30-06 and even some of my 5.56mm loads.  An advantage of hunting ammo is you're usually not worried about having thousands of rounds of it.  I shot service rifle, so needing at least 88 rounds per day of competition was a factor :-)

You can use whichever brand of dies you can find, I tend to use Redding competition seating dies with RCBS, Dillon, or Hornady resizing dies.  I don't bother with carbide for rifle dies because you still have to lube the cases.