That you could do a quick check on a 2007 Ford Taurus to see if I really need to put a converter on?

It's throwing the P0420 code for catalyst below threshold on bank 1.

II have been using a code reader that displays live data, but if my research is correct it seems both converters are bad. That just seems to be wrong somehow. 2 converters just don't go bad all of a sudden.

I could pay you, or trade for something?


Thanks

if it is throwing bank one, What research indicates both are bad?





(also , federal law requires catalytic converters come with a 8 year 80,000 mile Warranty, FYI http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf )
 





ETA my experience has been "bad catalytic converter" codes , are as often as not  bad downstream o2 senors

Car has 132,000 miles.

Live data shows the downstream o2 sensors fluctuating between .070v-.750v. Not steady at all.  When I put the exhaust back on I didn't have the flange on bank 1 aligned properly. I hand started the bolt and then ran it in with an impact, only to find out the treads of the blot were dragging on the manifold and then galled them all to hell and gone. Bolt was half way home and I could not get it out. I heated with a torch so I could back it out with an impact. I broke the bolt off and then had to torch the bolt and cut a slot in the converter flange so I could use a nit and bolt to hold it together. It does not look, feel, or sound like it is leaking. I replaced the upstream o2 sensor even though it tested ok. I thought maybe I over heated it and it was sketchy after that. This did not solve the problem. I have a hard time believing that the converter just went bad all of a sudden. Could I have overheated the converter cutting the slot in the flange? Maybe? Last live test I got the converters up to 1641F. I think bank 2 is fine, but the converter is a one piece unit, and I would have to change both.

Thoughts? I could put a downstream sensor in, but I hate to just throw parts at it without knowing for sure.

you didn't overheat it cutting it the flange is far enough away and they're made to take some heat .... If anything more likely the Impact vibrated the converter apart if it was already weakened, Not rattling if you bang on them right?



If they're running 1600F , Downstream look like theyre functioning.... WEIRD......



Why did you have them apart in the first place?
 

Don't know if it rattles.

I had to pull the Y-pipe off bank 2 and I just removed 1 bolt from bank 1 so I could pivot the pipe down to get space to remove the oil pan. The oil pan had to come off to remove the timing chain cover.

I know they are meant to take the heat but the converter is right at the flange on the 3.0l Vulcan motors.

Bank 1 is the converter on the right in the pic.

Pretty simple diag for the most part.  If your downstream o2s are switching high to low almost as fast as the upstream, then the cats are not doing their job.  The downstream will switch once and a while but for the most part should just hang out at one end of the voltage spectrum.  Usually anywhere from .4 to .8

ETA secondly, it's pretty easy to kill a cat or two.  I don't know the vehicle history but if the car's ever had a serious misfire that will usually kill a cat,  any raw fuel, oil or coolant into the cat will break down the material and the cat will loose its efficiency.

Serious misfire, sounds like the cause. after changing the wires it had some odd detonation problems only on bank one. Popping in the manifold and probably the converter. I forgot about that part when I asked the question. I am betting it got destroyed during that mishap. I still cannot figure out why bank one was not firing properly. I did get it worked out, but not sure what the cause was.

ETA I also put Bosch platinum plus 4 plugs in as replacements. I am wondering if this might have been an issue? Never had trouble with them in my truck, and seemed to run better than the factory plugs. Now I am second guessing my choice.