How do I remove

This is a lengthy description...but detailed.Should give you the answer you need.
cetmerifles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167

Quoted: This is a lengthy description...but detailed.Should give you the answer you need. cetmerifles.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167

ditto on teh above,,

So who makes a good flashhider?

buy an orig, HK or cetme one,, around 10$  RTG.org has em,,ebay,,,tapco,,FAC, ectect

Took 2 hours of work on one tonight with hand tools.

High-tech tools needed.....

Hacksaw (2 blades, MB is softer than pin but still ate first blade)
large file
small file
small screwdriver
pick
masking tape
3x5 card
pliers

Use a piece of 3x5 card and masking tape to protect BBL from slipping file and/or hacksaw from digging into finnish on BBL (first scuff taught me to cover BBL)

Use hack saw to chop off excess MB, there is a 1/4 inch gap from end of muzzle to where the MB thickens up again on the inside. I used 2 cuts to make sure I didnt hit the BBL, One to get most of it off by guestimating where the end of BBL was, got it about 3/8 of an ince from it, was still in the thick part of MB though.

Once you have excess chopped off take a hand file (large one) and file off the paint/blueing/whatever it is coated in off the bottom.

You will see a pin on the bottom of the MB (underside)

I used a hacksaw to cut slices down the side of the pin, the pin is much harder steel than the MB so the hacksaw just follows down the pin. Make like 6 slices into the MB and be carefull not to slice the threading below. Use large file to help remove MB material by holding it in a 45deg fashion to help remove material and widening out the cuts from the hacksaw.

Once you get close to the threads use a micro screwdriver or pick  to start peeling back the MB material where it is thinnest, if too thick use hacksaw/file again.

Use a strong thin pick to pry the pin from the rest of the MB.

You have now worked up a sweat, go get a beer or soda now.

Try to slice the MB lengthwise with hacksaw and pick out metal where thinnest, make 2 of these cuts to relieve pressure from MB holding around threads.

At this point use pliers and unthread MB from end of BBL.

You will see century has drilled a hole almost through BBL for pin to fit in.and you will need to file down some metal where the pin went into BBL as it is rough and higher than the surrounding material.

Throw the PC useless MB into trash, you will hear loud clank as the MB has some weight to it.

It took me 2 hours since I tried to analize this operation too much untill I saw my hacksaw looking sad and not being used, shouldnt take more than an hour.

Good luck

I got one but I didnt get the MB one, I'll probaly put a Fh on it if I like it.

Quoted: Took 2 hours of work on one tonight with hand tools. High-tech tools needed..... Hacksaw (2 blades, MB is softer than pin but still ate first blade) large file small file small screwdriver pick masking tape 3x5 card pliers Use a piece of 3x5 card and masking tape to protect BBL from slipping file and/or hacksaw from digging into finnish on BBL (first scuff taught me to cover BBL) Use hack saw to chop off excess MB, there is a 1/4 inch gap from end of muzzle to where the MB thickens up again on the inside. I used 2 cuts to make sure I didnt hit the BBL, One to get most of it off by guestimating where the end of BBL was, got it about 3/8 of an ince from it, was still in the thick part of MB though. Once you have excess chopped off take a hand file (large one) and file off the paint/blueing/whatever it is coated in off the bottom. You will see a pin on the bottom of the MB (underside) I used a hacksaw to cut slices down the side of the pin, the pin is much harder steel than the MB so the hacksaw just follows down the pin. Make like 6 slices into the MB and be carefull not to slice the threading below. Use large file to help remove MB material by holding it in a 45deg fashion to help remove material and widening out the cuts from the hacksaw. Once you get close to the threads use a micro screwdriver or pick  to start peeling back the MB material where it is thinnest, if too thick use hacksaw/file again. Use a strong thin pick to pry the pin from the rest of the MB. You have now worked up a sweat, go get a beer or soda now. Try to slice the MB lengthwise with hacksaw and pick out metal where thinnest, make 2 of these cuts to relieve pressure from MB holding around threads. At this point use pliers and unthread MB from end of BBL. You will see century has drilled a hole almost through BBL for pin to fit in.and you will need to file down some metal where the pin went into BBL as it is rough and higher than the surrounding material. Throw the PC useless MB into trash, you will hear loud clank as the MB has some weight to it. It took me 2 hours since I tried to analize this operation too much untill I saw my hacksaw looking sad and not being used, shouldnt take more than an hour. Good luck Edit for more clarification stuff

I used about the same procedure.You forgot the select curse words I used though.
Just remember when you add the original FH you decrease the parts count to six.So you have to add a U.S. part like the U.S. made magazine floor plates or followers.
Jayson at Investment Grade Firearms says he is going to produce a FH.If so thats the U.S. made part you need.
Personally I want a Vortex...just wish they made one.

Quoted:

I used about the same procedure.You forgot the select curse words I used though.
Just remember when you add the original FH you decrease the parts count to six.So you have to add a U.S. part like the U.S. made magazine floor plates or followers.
Jayson at Investment Grade Firearms says he is going to produce a FH.If so thats the U.S. made part you need.
Personally I want a Vortex...just wish they made one.

Thanks for the heads up on the US made part, I will have to contact them for availiability. Mine looks cool but slightly nekid showing its threads and all.  But at least that usless MB is goneMabey enough people ripping the usless MB off will drive the market for US made FH into the market.

12 minute method:

Tools:

Grinder. Coarse wheel.
piece of scrap rod that will fit thru the MB holes.

Method:

Disassemble/ field strip rifle.

Holding the bottom of the FH toward the grinder (thats were the pin was on the 2 Ive done).  Commense grinding on the underside of MB.  Look for the tell tale sign of the pin's location once you get started so you know youre in the right spot - adjust as needed.  Frequently check your progress.  When you can barely see a hint of barrel threads - stop.  Insert rod thru MB holes and see if you can twist it off.  You may have to grind a bit more.  

The first one we tried a dremel and a file for about 30 minutes and then moved to the grinder.  the second one took, 12 minutes from start to Evil FH installed.