As I wait for my first CMP M1 to arrive Wedsday morning I need info about feeding it.

I know buy greek from CMP, but it will have to wait till next month. So I need a good option.

What commercially available ammo can I get that will not bend the op rod and not burn my wallet?
PMC, rem,fed, american eagle FMJ?

I can reload, so what powders are reccomended for 150gr fmj? IMR4350?.............Feet per second to stay at or below?

I currently have some czech m2 ball manufacture from 1952. Non corrosive and very accurate through my 03a3 and rem 700 at 200 yards. yes it is their version of m2 ball but cost 132 per 480 rounds.

I also have m2 ap blacktip,1942 Twin city manufacture but I do not want use it because it is corrosive(big time) and is needed for work(developing armour for the sand box and it is fun shooting 1/2 inch plate at 25 yards)

Educate this cowpoke please.....

PS I'll post a discription when it comes in.

Quoted: As I wait for my first CMP M1 to arrive Wedsday morning I need info about feeding it. I know buy greek from CMP, but it will have to wait till next month. So I need a good option. What commercially available ammo can I get that will not bend the op rod and not burn my wallet? PMC, rem,fed, american eagle FMJ?

I shoot a lot of the Korean M2 that's on the market now.  Most of it has been the PS headstamp.  It is good, military ammo and I get decent accuracy with it.  I just received some of the KA headstamp which is corrosive (I shoot many other corrosive calibers so I'm kind of used to the cleaning routine), but have not shot any yet.  I understand it is also good ammo.

I haven't shot any commercial ammo out of my M1, but I understand the rule of thumb is nothing over 150gr bullets.

I can reload, so what powders are reccomended for 150gr fmj? IMR4350?.............Feet per second to stay at or below?

I'm a plinker and informal paper puncher.  I load 147gr pulled M2 bullets over 46gr of IMR 4064 in some of those PS cases.  It will shoot about 2 MOA out of my rifle.  I have used IMR 4895 with good results too.

I currently have some czech m2 ball manufacture from 1952. Non corrosive and very accurate through my 03a3 and rem 700 at 200 yards. yes it is their version of m2 ball but cost 132 per 480 rounds. I also have m2 ap blacktip,1942 Twin city manufacture but I do not want use it because it is corrosive(big time) and is needed for work(developing armour for the sand box and it is fun shooting 1/2 inch plate at 25 yards) Educate this cowpoke please..... PS I'll post a discription when it comes in.

Don't forget pics!

Here's one to hold ya until yours comes in.

Quoted: Quoted: As I wait for my first CMP M1 to arrive Wedsday morning I need info about feeding it. I know buy greek from CMP, but it will have to wait till next month. So I need a good option. What commercially available ammo can I get that will not bend the op rod and not burn my wallet? PMC, rem,fed, american eagle FMJ? I shoot a lot of the Korean M2 that's on the market now.  Most of it has been the PS headstamp.  It is good, military ammo and I get decent accuracy with it.  I just received some of the KA headstamp which is corrosive (I shoot many other corrosive calibers so I'm kind of used to the cleaning routine), but have not shot any yet.  I understand it is also good ammo. I haven't shot any commercial ammo out of my M1, but I understand the rule of thumb is nothing over 150gr bullets. I can reload, so what powders are reccomended for 150gr fmj? IMR4350?.............Feet per second to stay at or below? I'm a plinker and informal paper puncher.  I load 147gr pulled M2 bullets over 46gr of IMR 4064 in some of those PS cases.  It will shoot about 2 MOA out of my rifle.  I have used IMR 4895 with good results too. I currently have some czech m2 ball manufacture from 1952. Non corrosive and very accurate through my 03a3 and rem 700 at 200 yards. yes it is their version of m2 ball but cost 132 per 480 rounds. I also have m2 ap blacktip,1942 Twin city manufacture but I do not want use it because it is corrosive(big time) and is needed for work(developing armour for the sand box and it is fun shooting 1/2 inch plate at 25 yards) Educate this cowpoke please..... PS I'll post a discription when it comes in. Don't forget pics! Here's one to hold ya until yours comes in. home.earthlink.net/~theoneandonlyhoppy/garand/02.JPG

Man, with due respect, I would expect that you would know a thing or two about burn rates and bullets safe for use in the garand if your reloading for it.

The deal is, nothing over 180 gr.  Personaly I wouldn;t use 180's and 175 is the highest I would go.

Basically no commerical ammo is safe for the garand's gas port.  That's the nut shell answer.  Of course you can buy a box or two and try some amer. eagle or something simmilar and it most likely won;t harm your garand.  It's your rifle.

The biggest thing to worry about is the burn rate of the powder used in the rounds.  Commerically produced ammo normally use powders that are slower burning as they tend to be more accurate.  I KNOW that remington green box ammo is NOT safe for the garand.  They told me so.

Fire off a few e-mails to the various manufactures and ask them if they recommend firing their ammo in your garand.

My advice is:

Buy from the CMP (either the greek or the LC)
Buy some of the Korean (just know that the KA headstamed ammo is corrosive, PS is not)

Stick with what the rifle was made to shoot.

If you have other in depth questions, feel free to IM me and I'll answer everything you want to know to the best of my knowledge.

Quoted: Man, with due respect, I would expect that you would know a thing or two about burn rates and bullets safe for use in the garand if your reloading for it. The deal is, nothing over 180 gr.  Personaly I wouldn;t use 180's and 175 is the highest I would go. Basically no commerical ammo is safe for the garand's gas port.  That's the nut shell answer.  Of course you can buy a box or two and try some amer. eagle or something simmilar and it most likely won;t harm your garand.  It's your rifle. The biggest thing to worry about is the burn rate of the powder used in the rounds.  Commerically produced ammo normally use powders that are slower burning as they tend to be more accurate.  I KNOW that remington green box ammo is NOT safe for the garand.  They told me so. Fire off a few e-mails to the various manufactures and ask them if they recommend firing their ammo in your garand. My advice is: Buy from the CMP (either the greek or the LC) Buy some of the Korean (just know that the KA headstamed ammo is corrosive, PS is not) Stick with what the rifle was made to shoot. If you have other in depth questions, feel free to IM me and I'll answer everything you want to know to the best of my knowledge.

...and this is why I'll probably NEVER buy a Garand.  Unless you want to reload, the amount of ammo suitable for Garands is going to run out, probably within the next 5-10 years.

I have heard of people shooting commercial American Eagle and UMC 150 grain fmj with good results. I have never shot either in my M1 because I reload for mine, but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
Now, Federal and Remington will not say they are OK for two reasons.
1. The primers are not military spec and could possibly slamfire
2. They will not tell you about the powders used / Burn rates, etc.

Basically, they just say that they are not M2 ball spec because they do not want the liability. I keep hearing about bending the op-rod, but haven't heard of anyone that has happened to yet. My CMP manual just says not to shoot commercial ammo heavier than 180 grains.

+1 for the Dane and Korean stuff

How's the accuracy on the Korean stuff?I have seen it advertised in SG.

Quoted: How's the accuracy on the Korean stuff?I have seen it advertised in SG.

100 yds.  Korean M2 ball (PS)