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Posted: 8/9/2020 2:16:46 PM EDT
I bought this workbench and put it together today.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-45-in-W-x-36-in-H-3-Drawer-Hardwood-Work-Bench/1002261150 The assembly instructions didn't align with the actual assembly. The drawer assembly wan't even close. Other variations, but at the end it was all assembled with a handful of screws left over. Once set of screws, I was supposed to have about 10 or 15 of, I only had 2 on a little bag. Ended up not needing them at all. The problem? The hardwood benchtop doesn't bolt down. There are no holes in the top or anywhere along the frame to attach ot. According to the assembly instructions, it should have been screwed in the 4 corners. I guess I could drill holes in the frame at the four corners and bolt it in. Any other suggestions? |
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If that top is particle board, I would glue/screw a piece of 3/4 plywood to it. A bench can never be too strong.
Especially if top is not fully supported with a flat top of metal it sits on. To attach the top take it out and find good places to drill down for screw holes though the metal. I would probably use 3 on the sides and at least one in the middle. A nice thick top will be easier to attach a press to. A pic of the top of the bench without the top in place would help. Good luck |
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Just going off the picture, it appears it was designed for the top to rest inside the frame and was never intended to be bolted to the frame.
I would do two things if you are keeping this bench... Find a way to fasten the frame to the top. Drill holes and bolt it down or find a way to attach another board to under side of the top and sandwich the frame between the two boards. Attach / anchor the bench frame to the wall. Bolts to studs, none of that dry way anchor stuff. Good luck |
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I have 2 of the same, I went with a butcher block bench top across both of them though. So I'm not much help here.
Because the back legs sit on the carpet tack strip, I did put some scrap wood flooring pieces under the front legs to level them. I don't know that having the top bolted down would make much difference. Once you have your press on there, it would be bolted at that point. So if anything, maybe bolts at the back corners. |
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Quoted: If that top is particle board, I would glue/screw a piece of 3/4 plywood to it. A bench can never be too strong. Especially if top is not fully supported with a flat top of metal it sits on. Good luck View Quote I have the same bench, the top under the wood is metal across the whole top. Granted it is thinner sheet metal, but still fully supported. So you're probably right that it would benefit from more plywood strength. |
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Every metal work bench I've delt with/ assembled the captured tops were floating. Even the uncaptured ones Mounting the wood top was optional.
Myself, Drill and bolt the corners. I'd consider some fender washers to back the metal tabs where you drill and bolt |
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Thanks all. It's a hardwood top, not particle board or MDF.
I'll be mounting the press with the inline fabrications quickchange flush mount with riser. That actually looks like it will bolt thru the top and the rail frame at the front. Couple of bolts in the back corners should do it. |
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I’d do something to reinforce the metal bench top, like bolt through some angle iron, or even 2x4s running the whole depth of the top (front to back). You can put a LOT of leverage through an Inline Fab mount, so you want to have plenty of “beef” to keep from deforming the metal top of the bench when you size tough cases.
My UltraMount is bolted through the following: a 1/4” “finished” plywood top layer, a 3/4” “B-C” plywood top, and 2x4 (mounted width-wise) on each side. The 2x4s are fastened to the front and back of the frame with long screws and glued into place, with the 3/4” ply glued onto them as well. As it is, I wound up going with big washers on the bottom to spread the load, just in case. |
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Sanded ply (seal with polyurethane, stain optional) on top, bolt it together around back and bolt the press through it all.
Screw it to the studs behind. Then see if it holds up. Not trying to act all high and mighty or any BS, I just have my doubts the thing is strong/rigid enough to do the do. |
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Quoted: I'd do something to reinforce the metal bench top, like bolt through some angle iron, or even 2x4s running the whole depth of the top (front to back). You can put a LOT of leverage through an Inline Fab mount, so you want to have plenty of "beef" to keep from deforming the metal top of the bench when you size tough cases. My UltraMount is bolted through the following: a 1/4" "finished" plywood top layer, a 3/4" "B-C" plywood top, and 2x4 (mounted width-wise) on each side. The 2x4s are fastened to the front and back of the frame with long screws and glued into place, with the 3/4" ply glued onto them as well. As it is, I wound up going with big washers on the bottom to spread the load, just in case. View Quote So what you're saying is I need to go buy a welder now? Crap! |
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Better off build a bench or what I did I use an old desk that was for a bank manager that closed up, came with a free holster attached in one of the drawers.
Snowman357 |
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Quoted: Just going off the picture, it appears it was designed for the top to rest inside the frame and was never intended to be bolted to the frame. I would do two things if you are keeping this bench... Find a way to fasten the frame to the top. Drill holes and bolt it down or find a way to attach another board to under side of the top and sandwich the frame between the two boards. Attach / anchor the bench frame to the wall. Bolts to studs, none of that dry way anchor stuff. Good luck View Quote |
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Quoted: That looks like a viable option. I'll put a 3/4" plywood sheet under the current top. The use 2x4s to pinch the frame rails between the 2 upper tops and the 2x4 underneath. Running front to back, I can pinch the rail on either side and side by side in the middle. View Quote I used large L brackets on my bench. Made a world of difference. |
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I made one out of 2x4's stacked them so they bench would be 4" thick & 8' long. Glued & screwed the boards together, then used a piece of 3/8" sanded plywood on top. Very sturdy but over the years it's taken on a bit of a bow with a slight rise in the middle, but nothing I can't live with. I bought one of these several year back, they were quite a bit cheaper then, but these are fairly sturdy too, I'm just not real crazy about the height. It's what I have my vise & drill press on though.
https://www.samsclub.com/p/ultra-heavy-duty-workbench/prod1490086?xid=plp_product_1_5 This one looks like it might be as sturdy but more adjustment on height. https://www.samsclub.com/p/6ft-hardwd-workbench-adjustable-height/prod19543675?xid=plp_product_1_9 |
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OP doesn't have a lot of room to work with. I would go with this one...
UltraHD® Adjustable Height Heavy-Duty Wood Top Workbench Or this one if you want the back piece, light and draws... Seville Classics UltraHD Lighted Workbench |
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Kmarts and JCPenny stores closing, JCP local store has a ton of 30x60 steel frame tables with quite thick tops. $175 each, sounds a little steep until you start shopping for workbenches. Plenty Strong reloading bench.
Kmart has mostly shelving, but some other tables and fixtures as well I’m picking one up tonight as another workbench |
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Quoted: OP doesn't have a lot of room to work with. I would go with this one... UltraHD Adjustable Height Heavy-Duty Wood Top Workbench Or this one if you want the back piece, light and draws... Seville Classics UltraHD Lighted Workbench View Quote |
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Quoted: Quoted: OP doesn't have a lot of room to work with. I would go with this one... UltraHD Adjustable Height Heavy-Duty Wood Top Workbench Or this one if you want the back piece, light and draws... Seville Classics UltraHD Lighted Workbench I just mounted my XL 650 to a lighted Ultra HD bench. I think its going to work out well. Attached File |
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What the hell am I going to to with a $500 blue workbench, now?
That looks like a better setup. |
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Yeah, it came unassembled and the cover of the manual has "DO NOT RETURN - CALL xxx-xxx-xxxx"
Box and all packing material went to the dump on Monday. |
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Ordered the Seville Classics UltraHD Lighted Workbench from Sam's Club. Delivery date 8/31.
I'm going to re-arrange my office and keep the Kobalt workbench. |
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I bolt my press directly to the bench so a drawer right under the table, especially running the whole length wouldn't work for me, but if you you are using that riser it might work better.
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Sorry for your troubles OP. I have one of those type benches too. One drawer won’t close flush and the other blocked access for bolting stuff down!
I got it all worked out though. It’s tight; I have to go outside to sneeze/fart but it’s my safe place. Pics coming after coffee. |
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Quoted: lol So from the pic in the OP, if you execute a left face, this is what I did with the blue workbench. It'll make a good spot to work on stuff and clean firearms. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200812_153134-1543618.jpg View Quote Nice ar15 build center you have there.. enough room and drawers to put all the tools and extra parts.. |
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I've got the same bench, OP, only in black. The top on mine is some kind of particle board. IIRC, the top is actually secured from beneath with screws. Drawers on mine suck as well and they don't hold a lot of weight.
I need to get off my butt and build an NRA reloading bench one of these days. |
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Quoted: Unboxed this; hauled it all upstairs. Built it to this point; still need to assemble/install the drawer and electrical/lighting. Next pic should be with the XL750 attached. Much sturdier bench than the Lowe's bench. Thanks @Corporal_Chaos for the recommendation! ETA: The casters apparently were a little greasy. I was told to bust out the steam cleaner when I'm done. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200901_160138-1572957.jpg View Quote I'm glad you like the bench. Mine is working out quite well for me. I wish it was larger of course but I have to make do with the space I have right now. How are you planning to store your casefeeder plates? I have a hook for the peg board that they will sit on but each plate takes up a lot of peg board space. |
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Quoted: I'm glad you like the bench. Mine is working out quite well for me. I wish it was larger of course but I have to make do with the space I have right now. How are you planning to store your casefeeder plates? I have a hook for the peg board that they will sit on but each plate takes up a lot of peg board space. View Quote I've got caliber conversion kits for both 9mm & 458 SOCOM. Still need to get one for 223/556. I want to setup complete tool heads for each. I think I said that right; if I didn't it's because I don't know what I'm talking about. This is my first progressive. |
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Quoted: Not a clue on the case feeders. ETA: (homer-duh.gif) I don't have a casefeeder. I've got caliber conversion kits for both 9mm & 458 SOCOM. Still need to get one for 223/556. I want to setup complete tool heads for each. I think I said that right; if I didn't it's because I don't know what I'm talking about. This is my first progressive. View Quote Oh man, if you have a 750 you really should get a casefeeder before investing in separate toolheads for your different calibers. A casefeeder is the first accessory I would buy for an auto indexing progressive. |
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Quoted: Unboxed this; hauled it all upstairs. Built it to this point; still need to assemble/install the drawer and electrical/lighting. Next pic should be with the XL750 attached. Much sturdier bench than the Lowe's bench. Thanks @Corporal_Chaos for the recommendation! ETA: The casters apparently were a little greasy. I was told to bust out the steam cleaner when I'm done. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200901_160138-1572957.jpg View Quote I ordered the same bench without the peg board from Sam's club. Planning on setting it up soon. Looking forward to the finished pictures. |
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I was considering a similar Husky table. I never thought about the fact the top might not bolt to the frame!
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Quoted: Finished (mostly). Taking a 4 day weekend so I'll get it all adjusted and crank out some 9mm. Then work on setting up .458 SOCOM. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200902_144233-1574358.jpg Here's the Inline Fab quick change setup. Rock solid. Need to put the adapter on the Rockchucker. The drawer doesn't close all the way because of the front thru bolts. I'll trim it up with a hacksaw and it should close completely. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200902_131042-1574359.jpg Obviously, don't keep stuff you'll need for reloading in the drawer, 'cause you won't be able to get at 'em. Thanks everyone for the help, suggestions and feedback. View Quote Looks like thats going to be great. Nice spot too. |
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Are you going to be sitting in an office type chair to reload?
I'm curious as to why you went with the flush mount and gave up the use of the drawer instead of one of the Ultra Mounts. Where are you going to be storing your extra press when not in use? That's something I need to figure out. I'm thinking of mounting my storage plate on the side of the bench. |
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Quoted: Finished (mostly). Taking a 4 day weekend so I'll get it all adjusted and crank out some 9mm. Then work on setting up .458 SOCOM. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200902_144233-1574358.jpg Here's the Inline Fab quick change setup. Rock solid. Need to put the adapter on the Rockchucker. The drawer doesn't close all the way because of the front thru bolts. I'll trim it up with a hacksaw and it should close completely. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200902_131042-1574359.jpg Obviously, don't keep stuff you'll need for reloading in the drawer, 'cause you won't be able to get at 'em. Thanks everyone for the help, suggestions and feedback. View Quote Looks great! |
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Something I did on mine that I really like is a mounting plate. Get a square of 3/4" aluminum and drill and tap holes for all of your equipment. Mount the plate to the top, or better yet recess it flush. Buy winged screws in the right sizes to fit the holes. Then you can easily mount and remove presses, trimmers, etc. as needed instead of having to work around them if permanently mounted.
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Quoted: Looks like I'll be standing to reload. Or maybe get a Ultra Mount and a stool. I can use the drawers in the workbench adjacent to me. Behind me I have an L-shaped office desk and the Rockchucker is currently bolted up to that. I'll leave it that way until I figure out something better. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15341/20200811_162706-1575183.jpg View Quote Carpet in your reloading room? |
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Quoted: Is that not recommended? I'm planning on setting mine up in a carpeted area, too. View Quote I don't recommend it. Try as hard as you might no to, you will end up spilling some powder not to mention spent & even maybe a live primer or two. Also if you are like me & teach your kids then spilling is even more likely. Then there's brass trimming, which is often like a course dust that will often get on the floor. I once knocked over a jug of tumbling media that the lid wasn't on tight enough & if I'd had carpeting I can't imagine how hard it would be to clean up. |
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Purchase a piece of 2x6 lumber and bolt it down depth-wise to install a press on it. I did something similar with two 2x4's side by side, and ran them front to back to prevent the stress from a press damaging the existing edge.
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Quoted: I don't recommend it. Try as hard as you might no to, you will end up spilling some powder not to mention spent & even maybe a live primer or two. Also if you are like me & teach your kids then spilling is even more likely. Then there's brass trimming, which is often like a course dust that will often get on the floor. I once knocked over a jug of tumbling media that the lid wasn't on tight enough & if I'd had carpeting I can't imagine how hard it would be to clean up. View Quote I’m careful and vacuum and clean. Hasn’t been an issue. YMMV |
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