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Posted: 11/9/2013 8:21:40 AM EDT
[#1]
You stripped away the powder fouling of the inside of the case, which previously acted as a lubricant.
You would experience the same with virgin brass. I suggest you take the powder funnel out , and then polish with 3M Scotchbrite Green pad. |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 8:58:04 AM EDT
[#2]
you just found one of the reason Dillon recomends not to wet tumble
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Posted: 11/9/2013 9:35:20 AM EDT
[#3]
Bummer. I wasn't aware of Dillon's recommendation. Also, I had never had the problem with virgin brass. although that had always been Starline (FWIW). I'll try the suggestions, plus I'll also see how the case polish does. On the other hand, I really like how much better the primer seating works.
Like so many things in life, the solution to one problem reveals a new problem lurking right behind it. 
Thanks. I'll report back. Edit with the report-back. Tumbling in corn cob with case polish with a little car wax solved the problem. It also gave the cases a nice shine. |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 4:59:59 PM EDT
[#4]
Interesting. Did you make sure the die was clean? I wouldn't guess that it would actually cause a problem doing that. I use a SDB but I don't have a wet tumbling setup yet. I still tumble in walnut, but I don't add any lube to the cases.
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Posted: 11/9/2013 5:09:41 PM EDT
[#5]
The powder die was clean and shiny. There had never been a sticking problem before loading with wet-cleaned cases. But once I made sure to final polish the cases with corn cob and polish, the problem went away.
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Posted: 11/9/2013 5:13:02 PM EDT
[#6]
Hmm. I wouldn't have guessed that.
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Posted: 11/9/2013 6:48:26 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bummer. I wasn't aware of Dillon's recommendation. Also, I had never had the problem with virgin brass. although that had always been Starline (FWIW). I'll try the suggestions, plus I'll also see how the case polish does. On the other hand, I really like how much better the primer seating works. Like so many things in life, the solution to one problem reveals a new problem lurking right behind it. Thanks. I'll report back. Edit with the report-back. Tumbling in corn cob with case polish with a little car wax solved the problem. It also gave the cases a nice shine.  |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 7:01:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Dryflash, I know you're a Square Deal User and a wet tumbler, have you experienced this?
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Posted: 11/9/2013 7:09:37 PM EDT
[#9]
I've found two solutions to this problem on my 550.
1. Take the open end of the piece of brass and spin it on your lube pad. It puts just enough lube on the rim of the brass to ease things up a bit. I do this before sizing. 2. Hornady one shot. Give your brass a light misting. Also dry silicon lube works too but not as good. Good luck! |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 7:38:58 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Dryflash, I know you're a Square Deal User and a wet tumbler, have you experienced this? |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 7:40:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I've found two solutions to this problem on my 550. 1. Take the open end of the piece of brass and spin it on your lube pad. It puts just enough lube on the rim of the brass to ease things up a bit. I do this before sizing. 2. Hornady one shot. Give your brass a light misting. Also dry silicon lube works too but not as good. Good luck! I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like.
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Posted: 11/9/2013 7:43:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only in 9mm, but a short tumble in plain corn cob cures the issue. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Dryflash, I know you're a Square Deal User and a wet tumbler, have you experienced this? Huh, I don't remember seeing that before. |
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Posted: 11/9/2013 8:05:00 PM EDT
[#13]
Ya was posted here several years ago when wet tumbling was just becoming popular.
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Posted: 11/9/2013 8:20:12 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Problem is on the inside of case, not the outside. I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've found two solutions to this problem on my 550. 1. Take the open end of the piece of brass and spin it on your lube pad. It puts just enough lube on the rim of the brass to ease things up a bit. I do this before sizing. 2. Hornady one shot. Give your brass a light misting. Also dry silicon lube works too but not as good. Good luck! I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like. We're not talking about carbide dies here, we're talking about powder funnels that bell the brass and get stuck on it. I fully understand the problem is on the inside of the case, however it is very difficult and time consuming to lube only the inside of the case. |
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Posted: 11/10/2013 6:54:10 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We're not talking about carbide dies here, we're talking about powder funnels that bell the brass and get stuck on it. I fully understand the problem is on the inside of the case, however it is very difficult and time consuming to lube only the inside of the case. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've found two solutions to this problem on my 550. 1. Take the open end of the piece of brass and spin it on your lube pad. It puts just enough lube on the rim of the brass to ease things up a bit. I do this before sizing. 2. Hornady one shot. Give your brass a light misting. Also dry silicon lube works too but not as good. Good luck! I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like. We're not talking about carbide dies here, we're talking about powder funnels that bell the brass and get stuck on it. I fully understand the problem is on the inside of the case, however it is very difficult and time consuming to lube only the inside of the case. Yes. The inside of the case gets stuck on the powder funnel. And a short run in a vibratory cleaner in corn cob with case polish and a touch of liquid car wax cures the problem. It seems that the problem was discovered--and cured--a few years back when wet cleaning was becoming popular. I missed that, somehow. My bad. In some ways, I feel like Bartholomew Wiggins, the explorer who discovered America three years after Christopher Columbus. That's even though Columbus discovered a place that had already been discovered several times. Sigh. But the tumbling and waxing works anyway, and no tobacco is required. 
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Posted: 11/10/2013 1:00:03 PM EDT
[#16]
So to review, after the total PITA of wet cleaning, you finish the cases by dry tumbling with corn cob to avoid problems?
<removed> No call for this part in a technical forum. dryflash3 |
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Posted: 11/11/2013 4:56:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Yes. The polish and wax also reduces the propensity of the brass to tarnish or darken.
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Posted: 12/9/2013 7:20:40 AM EDT
[#18]
So, Would it be Dillons recommendation NOT to use new brass in their reloaders?
This dosent make sense. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 8:33:21 AM EDT
[#19]
I am kind of anal when it comes to reloading so my prep time has lots of steps.
One of them is to stand every case mouth up for a flash hole inspection, caliber confirmation and to check stuck pins. Once I get a load inspected I will grab a few hand fulls and dip a q-tip in case lube and swirl around the inside of the case mouth. You don't need to do every case but man does it make a difference. It really saves trouble in the actual loading process and prevents wasted components. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 9:33:36 AM EDT
[#20]
I wonder how long it would last to lube the insert in the powder funnel.
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Posted: 12/9/2013 9:41:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, Would it be Dillons recommendation NOT to use new brass in their reloaders?
This dosent make sense. Just opened a box of 6.5 Creedmoor from Hornady and it's got a slight residue on it |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 9:44:49 AM EDT
[#22]
Clean brass and clean dies cause galling, this is the problem here. I found using a short application of naval jelly to the dies leaves behind an iron phosphate coating which prevents this problem. I just use 10-20 seconds of contact time, then rinse with hot water and immediately oil.
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Posted: 12/9/2013 12:41:13 PM EDT
[#23]
I dry my cases in the vibratory tumbler, it is loaded with Walnut and NuFinish. The cases come out very slick. For me SS media and wet tumbling has been a good investment, I like clean brass. The dry tumbling adds a protective coating to the brass that keeps it from tarnishing.
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Posted: 12/9/2013 1:53:45 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wonder how long it would last to lube the insert in the powder funnel. About 5 cases. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 2:00:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
About 5 cases. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I wonder how long it would last to lube the insert in the powder funnel. About 5 cases. Kinda what I figured... tearing the press apart every five rounds would hamper the efficiency a bit. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 2:04:18 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kinda what I figured... tearing the press apart every five rounds would hamper the efficiency a bit. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I wonder how long it would last to lube the insert in the powder funnel. About 5 cases. Kinda what I figured... tearing the press apart every five rounds would hamper the efficiency a bit. I suppose you could tear it apart to lube it but I just used a q-tip to dab some lube on the funnel where it contacts the case mouth ;-) |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 3:44:29 PM EDT
[#27]
http://www.starlinebrass.com/faqs/ Happens with other brass also.
Why is it hard to get the powder funnel out of the case ? There are two situations that create this problem. The first is one we have just recently identified. It seems to be associated with the dillon powder funnel and only a couple of calibers (45 Auto and 40 S&W). The land for expanding case mouth is too long and when you begin to bell mouth the bottom of expander gets into the thicker taper of case and wedges causing it to be very hard to get back out. We have modified several by increasing radius on end and slightly shortening expanding land and this eliminated the problem completely. Call Starline and we will take care of it if you wish. One other cause can be a burr at case mouth created by the final trim operation, which grabs onto expander as it comes back up. This situation does not often appear and can be fixed by deburring case mouth or inside lubing cases. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 4:48:05 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I dry my cases in the vibratory tumbler, it is loaded with Walnut and NuFinish. The cases come out very slick. For me SS media and wet tumbling has been a good investment, I like clean brass. The dry tumbling adds a protective coating to the brass that keeps it from tarnishing. Pretty much the same as what I do, and with the same results. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 5:29:51 PM EDT
[#29]
I deprime mass quantities of brass then wet tumble the cases, then resize them. Since I use case lube even with carbide dies, I run the sized cases through a standard tumbler with corn cob for a little while to remove the lube. That leaves my cases all sized and ready to load, without sticky lube issues, and without issues of sticking on powder funnels. Of course I would never have known about the powder funnel issue if I hadn't read this thread, since I haven't been wet tumbling for that long.
To respond to the "PITA of wet tumbling" post, if I didn't wet tumble, I wouldn't be able to adequately inspect every single case for usability before I put a bunch of PITA effort into loading them and finding out that some of them aren't worth my trouble. You cannot do that kind of inspection unless the brass is perfectly clean, and the only way to get that effect is to wet tumble. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 5:51:52 PM EDT
[#30]
Wowsers, talk about a lot of work.
Is this for all reloads or just precision/hunting rounds? I couldn't imagine doing all that for my plinking rounds. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 6:51:19 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wowsers, talk about a lot of work. Is this for all reloads or just precision/hunting rounds? I couldn't imagine doing all that for my plinking rounds. I do it for all of them, but you are certainly free to do as you wish with your rounds. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 8:36:17 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To respond to the "PITA of wet tumbling" post, if I didn't wet tumble, I wouldn't be able to adequately inspect every single case for usability before I put a bunch of PITA effort into loading them and finding out that some of them aren't worth my trouble. You cannot do that kind of inspection unless the brass is perfectly clean, and the only way to get that effect is to wet tumble. Folks adequately inspected brass back when they were wiping them off with a damp rag. |
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Posted: 12/9/2013 11:00:15 PM EDT
[#33]
I still haven't loaded any rounds that I've wet tumbled, but I've never noticed any trouble with brand new virgin brass... all of that I have loaded was Starline 10mm. Does Starline add any lube to the new brass? The wet tumbled brass I've done has the same feel to it as the new brass does.
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Posted: 12/10/2013 2:29:39 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wowsers, talk about a lot of work. Is this for all reloads or just precision/hunting rounds? I couldn't imagine doing all that for my plinking rounds. Once I have a pile of clean, inspected brass that's all the same caliber, I can size them all on my progressive press (can't beat a case feeder for handling brass for you; all I have to do is pull the handle). The sized brass goes into the tumbler with corn cob for a little while, and when it's done, I separate it and put it away. Now I have a pile of ready-to-load brass, and I've pre-done the dirty, physically difficult part of loading. The thing is that I like all the reloading steps; it's fun, so even when I don't have a reloading project in mind, I can do a bunch of stuff related to reloading. It's also great when there's not a whole lot of free time, since I can do a few tasks without having to empty a powder measure, do a lot of clean up, or really much else. |
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Posted: 12/10/2013 2:34:05 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Folks adequately inspected brass back when they were wiping them off with a damp rag. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
To respond to the "PITA of wet tumbling" post, if I didn't wet tumble, I wouldn't be able to adequately inspect every single case for usability before I put a bunch of PITA effort into loading them and finding out that some of them aren't worth my trouble. You cannot do that kind of inspection unless the brass is perfectly clean, and the only way to get that effect is to wet tumble. Folks adequately inspected brass back when they were wiping them off with a damp rag. Not adequately enough for me. Back when I wiped cases off with a rag I also wound up having to clean up my press because of crap stuck in the bottom of dirty cases, having to discover that I'd sized a bunch of cases that had hidden neck and mouth splits that only showed up after processing, and that had signs of having been loaded hot several times, none of which I could see because the brass was dirty. Walnut tumbling was better than a rag, but not that much better. Being a perfectionist with loading (after one "oops" in loading, I am not going to risk another loading problem that could cause damage to me or my firearm), I'd rather do a little bit more labor to produce ammunition that is more consistent, starting with more thoroughly inspected brass. |
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Posted: 12/10/2013 3:54:06 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not adequately enough for me. Back when I wiped cases off with a rag I also wound up having to clean up my press because of crap stuck in the bottom of dirty cases, having to discover that I'd sized a bunch of cases that had hidden neck and mouth splits that only showed up after processing, and that had signs of having been loaded hot several times, none of which I could see because the brass was dirty. Walnut tumbling was better than a rag, but not that much better. Being a perfectionist with loading (after one "oops" in loading, I am not going to risk another loading problem that could cause damage to me or my firearm), I'd rather do a little bit more labor to produce ammunition that is more consistent, starting with more thoroughly inspected brass. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
To respond to the "PITA of wet tumbling" post, if I didn't wet tumble, I wouldn't be able to adequately inspect every single case for usability before I put a bunch of PITA effort into loading them and finding out that some of them aren't worth my trouble. You cannot do that kind of inspection unless the brass is perfectly clean, and the only way to get that effect is to wet tumble. Folks adequately inspected brass back when they were wiping them off with a damp rag. Not adequately enough for me. Back when I wiped cases off with a rag I also wound up having to clean up my press because of crap stuck in the bottom of dirty cases, having to discover that I'd sized a bunch of cases that had hidden neck and mouth splits that only showed up after processing, and that had signs of having been loaded hot several times, none of which I could see because the brass was dirty. Walnut tumbling was better than a rag, but not that much better. Being a perfectionist with loading (after one "oops" in loading, I am not going to risk another loading problem that could cause damage to me or my firearm), I'd rather do a little bit more labor to produce ammunition that is more consistent, starting with more thoroughly inspected brass. Adequate is adequate. You do more work because you want to, not because you need to. |
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Posted: 12/10/2013 4:53:26 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Adequate is adequate. You do more work because you want to, not because you need to. I do the work on the front end, when I'm not up to my ears on keeping track of what I'm doing, so I don't have to do as much work later in culling bad cases. For me, it works out pretty much even. |
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Posted: 12/10/2013 5:45:21 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Problem is on the inside of case, not the outside. I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've found two solutions to this problem on my 550. 1. Take the open end of the piece of brass and spin it on your lube pad. It puts just enough lube on the rim of the brass to ease things up a bit. I do this before sizing. 2. Hornady one shot. Give your brass a light misting. Also dry silicon lube works too but not as good. Good luck! I never use lube with carbide dies, no reason to. But do so if you like. Try reloading cases shot in an open bolt subgun and lube is your friend. Wait, wait uhh I need to rephase that......... |
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Posted: 12/10/2013 5:53:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Time to get back on topic.
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Posted: 12/10/2013 7:02:37 PM EDT
[#40]
LOL! I just got a 650 and running into the same problem - you guys are a life saver!
This seems like the perfection solution polishing media/Nufinish for pistol brass work on the Dillon but my question is have you guys tried the same thing with bottle neck brass? I am specifically worried about the lube/case grip/excessive bolt thrust thing? |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 10:49:23 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOL! I just got a 650 and running into the same problem - you guys are a life saver! This seems like the perfection solution polishing media/Nufinish for pistol brass work on the Dillon but my question is have you guys tried the same thing with bottle neck brass? I am specifically worried about the lube/case grip/excessive bolt thrust thing? Quote HistoryQuoted: LOL! I just got a 650 and running into the same problem - you guys are a life saver! This seems like the perfection solution polishing media/Nufinish for pistol brass work on the Dillon but my question is have you guys tried the same thing with bottle neck brass? I am specifically worried about the lube/case grip/excessive bolt thrust thing? Only in 9mm, but a short tumble in plain corn cob cures the issue. Dust from ther corn cob is the lube. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 12:31:37 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Solution is easy, from one of my posts from page 1; Only in 9mm, but a short tumble in plain corn cob cures the issue. Dust from ther corn cob is the lube. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: LOL! I just got a 650 and running into the same problem - you guys are a life saver! This seems like the perfection solution polishing media/Nufinish for pistol brass work on the Dillon but my question is have you guys tried the same thing with bottle neck brass? I am specifically worried about the lube/case grip/excessive bolt thrust thing? http://http/images/2008skins/icons/doubleArrowRight.pngQuoted: Dryflash, I know you're a Square Deal User and a wet tumbler, have you experienced this? Dust from ther corn cob is the lube. Dryflash, I know about the lube effect from the corn cob - actually I came up with that a few years ago on this very board. The real question though is the effect of the other lube i.e. polishing media and especially the Neufinish on bottle neck brass since at least for sure the last one i.e. Newfinish is a lube and generally lube is bad for bottle neck cartirages due to possiblity for excessive bolt thrust. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 2:04:00 PM EDT
[#43]
I use plain corn cob. I have never added anything to it and never will.
Tried the car wax stuff with walnut, hated the slick coating on brass. So I don't use that stuff either. |
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Posted: 12/11/2013 6:28:17 PM EDT
[#44]
Thanks!
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