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Posted: 12/23/2008 6:44:23 AM EDT
Was thinking of getting a registered LL but wasnt sure about how they work.

Do you need FA parts?

I heard they cause slam fires - is this true?

S
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 6:48:13 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Was thinking of getting a registered LL but wasnt sure about how they work.

Do you need FA parts?

I heard they cause slam fires - is this true?

S


they work by disconnecting the sear a a c-hair before it grabs the hammer. they are a neat little device that was designed specifically for AR15's, and as such need no M16 parts installed to work. that is one of the big bonuses of the LL; if you take it out you aren't left with a title 1 firearm full of M16 parts...

and no, they *shouldn't* cause slam fires.


Link Posted: 12/23/2008 7:51:48 AM EDT
[#2]
They make the normal AR-15 disconnector into an "auto-disconnector" by function. They use all AR-15 parts, but specifically need an "SP1" style bolt carrier.  The Lightning Link is a two-piece assembly, consisting of a Trip Paddle and a Link. The link is the registered part, replacement paddles are not a controlled item.

They work like this: Upon closing, the bolt carrier hits the top of the Paddle, which pivots on the rear takedown pin, pulling the Link to the rear.  The Link then pulls the disconnector off of the hammer, firing the rifle as long as the trigger is held back.  If you are off the trigger, the normal trigger sear will catch the hammer.
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 9:13:36 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
They make the normal AR-15 disconnector into an "auto-disconnector" by function. They use all AR-15 parts, but specifically need an "SP1" style bolt carrier.  The Lightning Link is a two-piece assembly, consisting of a Trip Paddle and a Link. The link is the registered part, replacement paddles are not a controlled item.

They work like this: Upon closing, the bolt carrier hits the top of the Paddle, which pivots on the rear takedown pin, pulling the Link to the rear.  The Link then pulls the disconnector off of the hammer, firing the rifle as long as the trigger is held back.  If you are off the trigger, the normal trigger sear will catch the hammer.


What type of bolt carrier does the SP1 have?
long full circle, short full circle or C carrier?

also if I buy a registered LL and it breaks can I make another one with that serial # on it?
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 9:29:08 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Quoted:
They make the normal AR-15 disconnector into an "auto-disconnector" by function. They use all AR-15 parts, but specifically need an "SP1" style bolt carrier.  The Lightning Link is a two-piece assembly, consisting of a Trip Paddle and a Link. The link is the registered part, replacement paddles are not a controlled item.

They work like this: Upon closing, the bolt carrier hits the top of the Paddle, which pivots on the rear takedown pin, pulling the Link to the rear.  The Link then pulls the disconnector off of the hammer, firing the rifle as long as the trigger is held back.  If you are off the trigger, the normal trigger sear will catch the hammer.


What type of bolt carrier does the SP1 have?
long full circle, short full circle or C carrier?

also if I buy a registered LL and it breaks can I make another one with that serial # on it?



NO!


Link Posted: 12/23/2008 11:15:40 AM EDT
[#5]
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 12:07:07 PM EDT
[#6]
so what is the life expectancy of a LL?
I'm guessing the paddle is the wear part, so are paddles available?
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 12:26:46 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
so what is the life expectancy of a LL?
I'm guessing the paddle is the wear part, so are paddles available?


the link is the controlled item, which is why it has a serial number. the paddles are just, well, paddles. those can be made as needed.


Link Posted: 12/23/2008 12:39:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
They make the normal AR-15 disconnector into an "auto-disconnector" by function. They use all AR-15 parts, but specifically need an "SP1" style bolt carrier.  The Lightning Link is a two-piece assembly, consisting of a Trip Paddle and a Link. The link is the registered part, replacement paddles are not a controlled item.

They work like this: Upon closing, the bolt carrier hits the top of the Paddle, which pivots on the rear takedown pin, pulling the Link to the rear.  The Link then pulls the disconnector off of the hammer, firing the rifle as long as the trigger is held back.  If you are off the trigger, the normal trigger sear will catch the hammer.


What type of bolt carrier does the SP1 have?
long full circle, short full circle or C carrier?

also if I buy a registered LL and it breaks can I make another one with that serial # on it?



KNS makes a RLL protector that takes all the stress off the link.
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 1:28:20 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
so what is the life expectancy of a LL?
I'm guessing the paddle is the wear part, so are paddles available?


the link is the controlled item, which is why it has a serial number. the paddles are just, well, paddles. those can be made as needed.






so confirming the paddle is the wear part?
what's approx life of those guys?

sometime in the future, I want to (finally) step into the FA world.  an ac556 is prolly first, but m16 is second.  so trying to understand RLL, RDIAS, RR and pros/cons of each.
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 2:39:15 PM EDT
[#10]


Quoted:



What type of bolt carrier does the SP1 have?

Colt "SP1" style carrier in the middle










 
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 3:39:59 PM EDT
[#11]
A broken LL can be repaired. M60joe has photos of repair on his website m60joe.com
Link Posted: 12/23/2008 4:28:14 PM EDT
[#12]
Here's my personal opinion:

I've owned a RLL for around 2 years.  IMO these are the best buy in the full auto AR market.  If you get M16A2 FCGs, you can modify them to make the rifle select fire instead of just Safe-Auto.  There is no issue in leaving the FCG in the rifles as it can only function as Safe-Semi-Semi without the LL being installed.

The paddle is the part which gets worn.  I have well over 10k rounds (Mostly 9mm) on one paddle before.  It never broke and I use it as a back up.  I purchase my paddles from M60Joe.  I measure the gap between the bolt and rear lug, add .002" and he'll make them.  I have a KNS LL Re-Enforcer and it takes all the stress of the link itself.  It it were to somehow break, M60Joe could fix most breaks.  I have custom paddles for each AR that I have.

You can use any caliber you want with the RLL, except for .22 unfortunately.  There are a couple of people who are working on it though.  It's estimated that there are less than 500 RLL on the books, so there isn't much of a market for us.  

I've spoken with Brian of BRP Guns and he's sure he could get one of his belt-fed 8mm or .308 XMGs to work with the RLL.  I'm planning on buying one in the future.  The Shrike should also work.

That's all I can really think of.
Link Posted: 12/24/2008 7:26:42 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Here's my personal opinion:

I've owned a RLL for around 2 years.  IMO these are the best buy in the full auto AR market.  If you get M16A2 FCGs, you can modify them to make the rifle select fire instead of just Safe-Auto.  There is no issue in leaving the FCG in the rifles as it can only function as Safe-Semi-Semi without the LL being installed.

The paddle is the part which gets worn.  I have well over 10k rounds (Mostly 9mm) on one paddle before.  It never broke and I use it as a back up.  I purchase my paddles from M60Joe.  I measure the gap between the bolt and rear lug, add .002" and he'll make them.  I have a KNS LL Re-Enforcer and it takes all the stress of the link itself.  It it were to somehow break, M60Joe could fix most breaks.  I have custom paddles for each AR that I have.

You can use any caliber you want with the RLL, except for .22 unfortunately.  There are a couple of people who are working on it though.  It's estimated that there are less than 500 RLL on the books, so there isn't much of a market for us.  

I've spoken with Brian of BRP Guns and he's sure he could get one of his belt-fed 8mm or .308 XMGs to work with the RLL.  I'm planning on buying one in the future.  The Shrike should also work.

That's all I can really think of.



thanks for the info.  that pretty much sold me on a LL.  easy to fix and keep running indefinetely.  whats not to like?

regarding 22lr, like I said....by the time I get to a FA AR15, I'll most likely have an ac556.  and I already have 2 ceiner kits for my mini's, so 22lr FA fun would be taken care of.
Link Posted: 12/24/2008 7:22:39 PM EDT
[#14]
I also considered the AC556 as my first full auto but found a good deal on a RLL in the same price range.  It was a no brainer.
Link Posted: 12/25/2008 9:43:39 AM EDT
[#15]
anyone know where I can get an SP1 bolt carrier or one cut to that length?
Link Posted: 12/25/2008 9:50:28 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
anyone know where I can get an SP1 bolt carrier or one cut to that length?


If you want to find one....  Hit the boards with WTB ads.  M60Joe can cut a M16 BCG back to SP1 specs.  He may have an inventory but you would have to ask.

M60Joe

Link Posted: 12/25/2008 12:43:47 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
anyone know where I can get an SP1 bolt carrier or one cut to that length?


If you want to find one....  Hit the boards with WTB ads.  M60Joe can cut a M16 BCG back to SP1 specs.  He may have an inventory but you would have to ask.

M60Joe


M60Joe milled my bolt carrier, and lower reciever for use of my Lightning Link. He does great work!
Link Posted: 12/25/2008 7:41:23 PM EDT
[#18]
Hate to say it but I took a standard carrier and slapped it on the ole bench grinder and chopped it to length of SP1.  over 8K rounds later and she's still running fine.  Just don't take off too much or it is unusable for RLL.  I have two that I did take off too much but they run fine on other ARs I have.

YMMV.

Also - you can find info on how to take M16 FCG and make your own select fire setup.

Also - I recommend (as someone already gave the link) Quarterbore.com.  Best place for RLL info.
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