I like my Mini-14.

Now, honestly, I haven’t shot it for quite some time. But I like it. It was my very first gun of any kind and I still absolutely love the way it feels in my hands.

Since then I’ve bought many other rifles and for the last couple of years the Mini just sits in the back of the safe. I’d like to bring it out of its retirement and make it just the way I think Ruger should have made it. It needs a threaded barrel, bayonet lug, and a decent set of sights.

My plan is to buy one of these combo front sight/bayonet lug/compensator jobs and then just cut the compensator off and face the cut end off.



Then, I’d like to have the barrel shortened to 16”, threaded ½-28, and crowned.

From there, the idea would be to mount the front sight/bayonet lug combo down the barrel at the distance from the flash hider to allow mounting of a bayonet. Then I would mount a Vortex flash hider and pick one of the many aftermarket rear sights to replace that shitty, flimsy sheet metal rear sight that comes on Mini-14 ranch rifles. I might re-mount the old Weaver stainless 4x scope that’s on there now or I might look into a red dot or pistol scope mounted on an Ultimak setup for a scout rifle kind of set up.

Essentially, what I would end up with is a shortened Mini-14 GB-model. If I decide I really like it, it will receive some kind of black all-over finish as its stainless now.

Discuss.

Anyone done anything like this?

Curious as to who can do the barrel work and how much work like that might (cut, crown, thread, drill roll pin hole) cost.

Quoted: Hmmmm, very interesting. The only problem, maybe, if I'm not mistaken you will have to enlarge the inside of the sight/bayonet lug to get it in the position you want on the barrel. Mini barrels slightly increase in diameter in that area.

I was worried there might be a step or something. I'm also a bit worried that the barrel may not have enough meat the give me a shoulder to tighten the FH against. I'm gonna have to whip out the gun and some calipers.

There might be enough tolerances in the sight/muzzle brake though to go over that. Of course if you have the machinery to do that no sweat and an excellent idea. In fact you could probably make a few extra bucks doing that service for others.

Once upon a time I was a machinist and could do the work in a couple hours free time at work.

I kind of regret changing career paths sometimes.

Here's a pic for ya a941.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/75/l_e15d474e4dc1fa3ef0fad36b824cce24.jpg

Ugh...that's just depressing.

Maybe 1630 will be running next year up an IRM if we keep our fingers crossed, though.

I think I'm going to go with the M-1 Carbine type sight offered by these guys.

I might go with an offering from Millet or maybe XS, though. Haven't decided. I wish the new Mini-14 sight would fit.

Sumthin' like this...




FTW!!

I strongly advise going to www.perfectunion.com and doing a bit of reading BEFORE you finalize things.

You will find a real wealth of info there, and just as important, you will find out what has NOT worked.

Trust me on this, please.

After you read up on things, then we can talk.  There are lots of easy, inexpensive mods that can be done to the Mini that will aid in accuracy and increasing its usefulness.  Read up and i will be glad to help.

Quoted: I strongly advise going to www.perfectunion.com and doing a bit of reading BEFORE you finalize things. You will find a real wealth of info there, and just as important, you will find out what has NOT worked. Trust me on this, please.

Thanks. Will do.


Though keep in mind, I'm not trying to "accurize" the thing, I just want to give it a decent sight picture, make it even handier than it is now, and give it a threaded barrel with options for different flash hiders, muzzle breaks, and maybe even suppressors in the future.

It shoots about 3-4 MOA with mil-surp ammo as it is. That's fine with me, for what it is.

Quoted: Quoted: I strongly advise going to www.perfectunion.com and doing a bit of reading BEFORE you finalize things. You will find a real wealth of info there, and just as important, you will find out what has NOT worked. Trust me on this, please. Thanks. Will do. Though keep in mind, I'm not trying to "accurize" the thing, I just want to give it a decent sight picture, make it even handier than it is now, and give it a threaded barrel with options for different flash hiders, muzzle breaks, and maybe even suppressors in the future. It shoots about 3-4 MOA with mil-surp ammo as it is. That's fine with me, for what it is.

Try to be patient, and do some reading.  You might just find that you can accomplish your goals with less expense and hassle than you first thought, with increased accuracy as an added benefit.

Cool.

I didn't know you could thread them 9/16-24, either. A Belgian FAL muzzle device would look cool on there.

Quoted: Don't. The machining trade has it's benefits, but you really need to love it if you're going to stay with it for any length of time. There are less stressful, easier jobs out there that pay better.

It wasn't stressful at all for me...it's all in where you work. And trust me, I loved it.

The money and the opportunity to advance led me away. Along with the decreasing number of jobs in that field.

Where I worked, they'd just throw a problem at me and expect me to come up with a solution. It was fun, and I had a lot of free time for personal projects. Oh well.

Some day ima get me a lathe and a small mill.

Quoted: If you're good with a dremel just wait till the next gun show and pick up a M-1 carbine rear sight ~ $20. There are instructions on-line how to do it (where raf directed you). Did it myself and turned out great.

Yeah, I might do that.

Mine looks a lot like the top one above, although I left the barrel the original length.

I used a RamLine aftermarket stock and bedded the action to the stock AFTER filing the stock reinforce to fit the unaltered action properly.  Installed short rails on either side of the fore-end for lights, etc, and installed a stud on the bottom of the fore-end for a bipod which I doubt i'll ever install.  Be advised that a bad fit between the stock reinforce and the receiver can cause problems.  If there is any interferance between the "Leg" of the receiver and the stock reinforce, file the reinforce to just kiss (no gap) the "Leg" when assembled.

I then sent the barreled action off to have it cryo-treated which supposedly relieves stress and alters the metal's molecular structure in a way that enhances barrel life a good deal.

While I was waiting, I removed the rubber buttpad and got some SS screws for it.  I cut some collars for the screws so their heads would not be buried in the buttpad, and assembled a cleaning kit based on an AR buttstock kit.  Fits nicely in the hollow stock with room to spare.

I also polished the guts of the trigger assy-- not removing any metal or changing angles/engagement surfaces, but just smoothig everything out.  The pull weight is just a tad less than it was, but the trigger is smooth and clean.  A moderate weight of pull and a crisp trigger-- just right for my purposes, which is to say the range and field.

Once the action came back from the cryo place, I assembled everything and went to the range.

Accuracy was about 3 MOA, but I figured I could do better.  I took off any aftermarket stuff and sent the barreld action and trigger group off to Ruger with twp requests:

1) Fix the Accuracy problem, and

2) Sell me a couple of firing pins, extractors, ejectors and all their associated springs and such after fitting them all to my rifle.  this goa me a lifetime's worth of commonly required, Ruger-restricted spare parts.

The Mini came back, IIRC $60 later with all the spare parts I ordered plus a new bolt which apparently was carefully fitted and headspaced to the barrel/action.  Back to the range we went.

Accuracy using the same high-quality reloads was now 1.5-2 MOA, and thanks to the cryo treating, the effects of a hot barrel stringing shots was greatly reduced.  Not too bad, I thought.

I also cut additional notches in the adjustment wheels of the rear sight, changing the adjustment increments from the OEM 1.5 MOA to .75 MOA.  Installed the ss Choate flash suppressor unit which, as noted above, really cleans up the front sight picture.  Installed a ghost ring rear sight from XS, and that is very quick and also works well in low light.

Because my eyes are getting older, along with the rest of me, I ordered a Scout scope mount from Ultimak, and installed it and a Burris Scout scope using the lowest rings thst would work.  the mfr claims that the Scout mount reduced barrel whip, and I believe them.

Bead-blasted all the metal and painted the metal with Brownell's "dark park" colored alumaHyde II epoxy paint.  I baggied-up all the spare parts and put them into the butt stock along with the cleaning kit.  That little extra weight in the very rear of the stock shifts the balance point a bit further to the rear than it was originally, even with the Scout Mount and scope installed.  The Mini is now livlier in handling than it was when new.

So, what did I get for all this work and money?

I got an accurate, reliable Mini-14, Scout-style with sights and optics optimized to its' range capabilities, and the capabilities of the ctg.  It'll hit pretty far out, but the bullet, given the reduced velocity caused by the short OEM barrel runs out ogf gas in a relatively short distance.  It's a short- to maybe medium-range carbine, pure and simple. Since I did as much of the work as possible, the labor costs were what Ruger and the cryo people charged, which is to say pretty reasonable.  The Mini is now a fast-handling little carbine using either the Scout scope or the vastly improved iron sights.  It is low visual profile, highly reliable, and will never rust.  It can mount lights, lasers, or other aids.  spare parts and cleaning kit are self-contained.  I have also been able to find a number of shorty AR owners who had the mistaken notion that Minis could never be accurate,  Thanks to them, the Mini has not only paid off its original purchase price, but all of the modifications also.

I don't think most people can wring more out of a Mini with the original barrel. Installing a longer/heavier barrel can be done, but doing so is expensive, and some of the mods I did would still have to be performed regardless.

I don't say my way is right for everyone, but I think I've done a pretty decent job of getting the most out of the Mini for the least money.  I think it stacks up ell against most shorty ARS, both in capabilities and price.  WMMV.

 

Quoted: Quoted: I strongly advise going to www.perfectunion.com and doing a bit of reading BEFORE you finalize things. You will find a real wealth of info there, and just as important, you will find out what has NOT worked. Trust me on this, please. Thanks. Will do. Though keep in mind, I'm not trying to "accurize" the thing, I just want to give it a decent sight picture, make it even handier than it is now, and give it a threaded barrel with options for different flash hiders, muzzle breaks, and maybe even suppressors in the future. It shoots about 3-4 MOA with mil-surp ammo as it is. That's fine with me, for what it is.

As far as your original question goes, along with this follow-up, the answer is pretty simple.

Let me start by saying that the device you pictures is a Johm Masem "Black Warrior" Compensator, the compensating effect of which is of dubious value.  Way back,  before the Ban, there was offered a closed-bottom slotted M-14-style flash-suppressor version of this, which was effective indeed.  I have one.  The two versions, comp and FS, were offered in blue and Stainless, and with or without bayonet lug.  For some reason, only the 'comp" version is offered as new nowadays.

Your best bet, given the unobtainability of the un-necessarily long Masen FS unit is to buy and install a stainless-steel flash suppressor/front sight unit made by Choate.  The front sight picture will be GI-style, and the A2-style closed-bottom flash suppressor is something badly needed on any rifle with a short barrel, the Mini being no exception.  This alternative is cheaper, less laborious, and far more effective in many ways than your original concept.

The Choate FS, along with a clamp-on bayonet lug, will accept an M-16 bayonet if you wish.  The clamp-ons are still around; in blued and the preferred stainless steel versions.  This method of attaching a bayo retains the longer OEM sight radius and in that respect, at least, is superior to the arrangement used on the GB.  The Choate/A2-style FS is very effective, as it is correctly sized for the 5.56mm ctg.  Unlike  some  slightly more flash-suppressive screw-on type FS units such as the Vortex and Phantom, it has a closed bottom, which is something of considerable utility on short Mini-length barrels with their greater muzzle blast.   The closed bottom actually does have a small compensating effect, and reduces dust kick-up when shooting prone. The Choate does its job well, and adds no unnecessary length to the Mini, unlike the Masen.  I would never advocate any muzzle device which attached via set-screws which can, believe it or not, compress the barrel to a sufficient extent to affect the bore and harm accuracy.  There is a way to correctly attach these devices, but that involves pointed set-screws with corresponding divots machined into the barrel to precisely accept the points and installation with a properly calibrated torque wrench.  Much more hassle than it's worth usually.

This is an example of the stuff you can find out over at perfectunion.  They are to Minis what Arfcom is to ARs.

Mine

Quoted: Mine media.ar15.com/media/viewFile.html?i=1606&prev=1

You're on the right track, I think, but I would strongly suggest the stainless Coate Front sight/Flash suppressor unit I mentioned above.  Much better front sight picture, I assure you.  You will get a front sight blade that has wing-type protectors just like an M1/M1A/AR, and an excellent A2-style flash suppressor all in one unit, with no possibility of accuracy-ruining rattling, as some add-on FS units might do.

FWIW, I've tried 'em all and I would never willingly revert to the OEM front sight. I urge you to consider the Choate.

One other point.  OEM Ruger wood stocks are notoriously a loose fit.  Try this experiment:  Unclamp and remove the trigger group, and see if you can wigge the rear of the receiver in the stock.  Any movement, no matter how slight, either side-to-side or forward and back says your stock is too loose a fit, and costing you accuracy.  When you try to clamp your trigger group into the stock, and you do not feel definite resistance about 1/2 inch before clamping, then the wood has compressed or the stock is, again, too loose a fit.  You can shim the TG at the very rear, but that is a stop-gap measure, as the wood will still compress over time.  Old-time M1/M1A shooters with wood stocks would store their rifle with TGs unclamped to avoid wood compression.

Either bed the action into the wooden stock, or buy a Choate or RamLine Stock and send back any stock that doesn't pass the above tests.  I bedded my RamLine syn stock with Brownell's Steel Bed compound, and it has been good for the last ten years.

Again, you are are on the right track, and I just offer the above as helpful comments.

Quoted: i36.tinypic.com/5wmqfq.jpg

Most people say a can degrades accuracy to some extent.

What is the accuracy of your GB with and without the can?  Please specify the range.

Quoted: Quoted: Most people say a can degrades accuracy to some extent. What is the accuracy of your GB with and without the can?  Please specify the range. On burst or auto? I have noticed some endcap rubs....most likely due to barrel whip. Never had that problem with the can on AR barrels. With all honesty, it's mostly been fired with .22LR lately...5.56 with a happy switch gets spendy. But i must say i am happy with the SCAR-CQB stock. It is pretty solid. It actually had to be fitted, as it comes tight. I'm happy.

There's some do-it-yourself barrel-whip fixes on perfect union.com.  You might want to try some, as some are pretty cheap and easy to do.

I'd still like to see the before-and-after groups, just to see the accuracy effects of your Mini/can combo.

Can you please give a link to the SCAR stock?