Good post.. lemme expand on a few things a bit
>>1. Buy a good torque wrench and keep the action screws torqued to 65 in/lbs. check torque every 100 rounds.
YMMV... 55-65 in/lbs... neet to tweak until you find your sweet spot
>>>2. Use good ammo, match grade, no steel cases please.
Fed GM or reloads..
Fed GM will give me 3/4" @ 300 yards... reloading 168G SMK, to the 2600fps load using IMR4064 and CCI BR primers has yeilded 5/8 @ 300 yards, I am sure I could get tighter than that.. I have also found that these chambers are pretty tight and have a long throat... I FL size my brass, and seating depth is .030 over OAL listed in my Sierra manual I am not home to look at the actual # if you want to know, I will post it later...
>>>3. Loctite the three swivel studs.
I do allot of shooting off my sinclair bench rest, I usually remove the swivel studs ( only when shooting) to keep them from digging into my bags
>>>4. Check the barrel free float after re-torque. A dollar bill works great.
>>5. Don’t buy an aftermarket trigger, just adjust the factory trigger group.
The PSS has a great trigger, I have mine @ 2.25 lbs... tha palm swell changes you finger position on the trigger, it actually makes it feel lighter than it is.
6. If you use a Harris swivel type bi-pod use a pod-loc.
>>>7. Do not get bore solvent on the Parkerizing it will take it off !!!!
What kind of solvent are you using? I use Boretech benchrest blend to remove the copper, and follow it up with some good ole Hoppies #9
I havent seen this happen.. I do wrap a paper towell around the end of the barrel to soak up all the solvent that dripps out of the muzzel.
Also wanted to add, Remington also recomends keeping a coat of remoil om the parkerization, I personally use Breakfree CLP and let it soak in for about 15 min and pat it down with a lint free rag to remove the eccess...
You could find this in the FAQ section of
www.remingtonle.com