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I own page 2. I have a TLR-VIR 2, and really like it, although I haven't done much shooting with it just yet. While it has more of a flood type beam than the Surefire x400v, It's definitely fine for my uses. Quite a bit cheaper than the Surefire as well, and I don't need to get special holsters for it.
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Jist ordered one. I have a few TLR holsters. Excited to play. Had some Amazon GCs burning a hole in my pocket.
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I just ordered one too, I've found them as low at $250-$260 so I jumped on it. Looking forward to getting it to check it out first hand.
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Probably a stupid question, but is there any chance this light will fit a Safariland 6004 holster for Glock & SF X300?
By looking at pictures it seems about the same size as the X300 - just wondering. I would like to try one, but can't upgrade my holster right now. |
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Not sure about about Glocks specifically, but the Safariland 6395 RDS I had built for my P320c RX with X300 works great with both the X300 and TLR-VIR II
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Well, I've gotten it and gotten to shoot it a couple of times now. While I like the features and love the price, so far I've had a hard time with getting it tightened down. It's shooting loose in less than a full magazine on my duty gun (P227 tacops w/ 14rd mags). I need to figure out a way to shim the locking lug cause the keys are to narrow and don't fit tight in the rail and then I need to figure a way to really lock the clamp down on the rail. The bolt seems sized for a penny. I wish they had used a bolt that actually had a real flat head screwdriver head on it so it could be torq'd tight.
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Quoted:
Well, I've gotten it and gotten to shoot it a couple of times now. While I like the features and love the price, so far I've had a hard time with getting it tightened down. It's shooting loose in less than a full magazine on my duty gun (P227 tacops w/ 14rd mags). I need to figure out a way to shim the locking lug cause the keys are to narrow and don't fit tight in the rail and then I need to figure a way to really lock the clamp down on the rail. The bolt seems sized for a penny. I wish they had used a bolt that actually had a real flat head screwdriver head on it so it could be torq'd tight. View Quote As for the screw, I think the intention is to keep you from being able to over torque the locking screw. A rounded driver bit, like the SIG armorer screw driver is your best bet. |
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Do the VIRII not come with the same pack of assorted inserts that the TLR1HL does? As for the screw, I think the intention is to keep you from being able to over torque the locking screw. A rounded driver bit, like the SIG armorer screw driver is your best bet. View Quote |
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Quoted: I don't think the pack of inserts is the exact same as the HL, but there's 3 or 4 of them. I've never had the inserts fit snugly into the Sig rails, no matter which one I use. There's always been some fore/aft slp. Great tip on the Sig driver. The wife is the Sig armorer at work so I SHOULD have access to one of those. I'll give it a try. Thanks. View Quote Which ones did your light come with? |
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I actually sold my Rosch Works SL1 last week to buy the TLR-VIR II which arrived yesterday. I just opened the box earlier so haven't had a chance to see bem pattern or anything for that matter. Hopefully will get a chance to check out tonight with my NVD.
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Tape switch compatible? I'm surprised no one has asked this yet.
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Quoted:
Tape switch compatible? I'm surprised no one has asked this yet. View Quote |
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So I cut some pieces of plastic to shim the 1913 locking insert. I also cut a piece to shim around the cross bolt. Everything seemed to be locked in tight. I got to the range tonight. About 4 rounds into the first magazine and the light falls off my gun. The cross bolt just snapped at the threads. Luckily I found all the pieces. The threaded end of the bolt is still in the body. I'm pretty sure the free side of the mount had some springs in it. I didn't find those. I was never able to use anything other than a coin to tighten it down so I don't think I cranked on it to hard. Will reach out to streamlight when I get back to the office. Hopefully they'll make it right. FYI, careful of the cross bolt.
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So far so good I guess. The responsiveness is about what I would expect from streamlight. I sent the initial email informing them of the failure on a Sunday. I received a response on Monday. I sent photos along with some suggestions on Monday night. I got a response they would send replacement parts on Tuesday. I was on my weekend when that response came. There wasn't really any response to the suggestions that I made. I just sent a response asking the parts to be sent to a different address than was on my contact form. We'll see if they've already went out tomorrow. Regardless, at least new parts are on the way. I'm hoping it was a fluke that the cross bolt failed and that it doesn't continue to happen.
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I'm not sure why they redesigned the crossbolt. Mine did seem to come loose a couple times which has not happened to me with any other TLR1 series lights and I use a lot of them.
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Hi.
Dumb question here. I am about done with my X400V-A. I've got way too much invested in holsters to leave, though. Will that light fit my holster? |
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Only thing I dont like with it, is you cannot just do IR laser. You have to use the IR illuminator.
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Quoted:
Thank you! I emailed SF about their B revision. Maybe they will make it right. if not... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Thank you! I emailed SF about their B revision. Maybe they will make it right. if not... Hi HighOrder,
Unfortunately, the head of that model cannot be changed out and we do not have a trade-in program. Thank you, Technical Support Manager |
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So far so good I guess. The responsiveness is about what I would expect from streamlight. I sent the initial email informing them of the failure on a Sunday. I received a response on Monday. I sent photos along with some suggestions on Monday night. I got a response they would send replacement parts on Tuesday. I was on my weekend when that response came. There wasn't really any response to the suggestions that I made. I just sent a response asking the parts to be sent to a different address than was on my contact form. We'll see if they've already went out tomorrow. Regardless, at least new parts are on the way. I'm hoping it was a fluke that the cross bolt failed and that it doesn't continue to happen. View Quote I'd think either option would help to hold the cross bolt tight (along with blue loctite) so that it's not constantly working loose and I don't have to crank the new one down to tight and risk snapping it again. Any thoughts on either option? Anybody tried either option? |
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I am thinking, and just spitballing here, because I don't have the item in hand, but usually you don't really have to crank down on things. Perhaps there is supposed to be a bar or insert that is supposed to push into place as the screw is tightened, and in yours, it is malformed or missing due to some kinda factory issue?
I'd wanna see someone elses' rig and look for differences first. Then, I would look at tolerances. Maybe the item is for one style of accessory rail, and it is being placed on another spec. I ran into this mounting a light on an airsoft replica. I had to break the dremel out in order to get it to fit properly. Lastly, maybe go to your equivalent of Ace Hardware, roam the shelves and see if there's something there. Perhaps a tiny lockwasher? Let us know how you solve it though |
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The first step in solving it was gluing plastic shims to the pic rail insert. It was narrower than the cross slots on the sig rails. I got all those glued on and the light put in place and everything seemed locked in. I was giving it it's first test run with the shims when the cross bolt snapped. Once I get the replacement parts, I'll re-glue shims in and try again. Previously the bolt would work loose in less than 15 rounds of 230 grain winchester ranger duty ammo (usually less than 5 or 10). I think it'll stay in place with the shims as long as the bolt doesn't walk completely loose. That's the part I'm trying to solve with the bushing or lock washer. I never really cranked on it hard. The only thing I was ever able to use to tighten it was a coin. Even that slipped out of the slot when I tried to crank on it. I'm really thinking the cross bolt is just a failure waiting to happen. Hopefully I can find a way to lock it in without to much torque.
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Has anyone confirmed if this will fit custom kydex style holsters like raven or bravo or kt mech for the trl1?
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I THINK we finally have success. The new cross bolt and side plate came in last week. i managed to find some tiny lock washers that I put under the head of the cross bolt. I still think the dremel bushing might work but I wanted to try it one little bit at a time so I started with just the washers. I added some plastic shims to the 1913 locking lug and put it all on the gun. I tightened it down, but didn't go as tight as I could have. I finally got to the range tonight. I think I put about 75 rounds through it and it doesn't appear to have loosened at all. At this point I THINK it's locked in and will hold under recoil. I think I'll probably have to replace the shims on the 1913 locking lug with each battery change. Hopefully not, but that's minor. What'll be really interesting to see is if it will hold zero after dismounting and remounting for a battery change.
Anyway, long story short, plastic shims on the 1913 locking lug and some tiny lock washers under the head of the cross bolt SEEMS to lock everything in place. |
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Quoted:
I THINK we finally have success. The new cross bolt and side plate came in last week. i managed to find some tiny lock washers that I put under the head of the cross bolt. I still think the dremel bushing might work but I wanted to try it one little bit at a time so I started with just the washers. I added some plastic shims to the 1913 locking lug and put it all on the gun. I tightened it down, but didn't go as tight as I could have. I finally got to the range tonight. I think I put about 75 rounds through it and it doesn't appear to have loosened at all. At this point I THINK it's locked in and will hold under recoil. I think I'll probably have to replace the shims on the 1913 locking lug with each battery change. Hopefully not, but that's minor. What'll be really interesting to see is if it will hold zero after dismounting and remounting for a battery change. Anyway, long story short, plastic shims on the 1913 locking lug and some tiny lock washers under the head of the cross bolt SEEMS to lock everything in place. View Quote |
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Quoted:
Good deal. You aught to email that to their engineering people just as a heads up, anyway View Quote |
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