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Posted: 7/28/2005 7:38:27 AM EDT
The manual Pietta shipped with my .44 Colt 1860 is not very clear about the powder charges for the pistol, so I'm asking you guys. What are the max/min powder charges for it?

Thanks
Link Posted: 7/28/2005 5:40:30 PM EDT
[#1]

As much as you can pound and force in there. Seriously.

Link Posted: 7/29/2005 5:18:09 AM EDT
[#2]
As much as you can get in there and still have room to seat the ball.  If you are going for a light charge, You must use enough powder that the ball can be seated to leave no air space.

I typically shoot 35 grains by volume of black powder with an Ox-Yoke Wonder Wad between the powder and ball.  This load leaves the ball seated about 1/8 inch below the chamber mouth when heavily compressed.  I compress the charge in two stages.  First I seat the wad compressing the powder as much as possible then I seat the ball.

Kent
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 5:39:51 AM EDT
[#3]
I think the standard load was 25-30 FFG . My Pietta came with instructions for 20 grs. ? In a . 44 no way i shoot 25. RL
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 1:46:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Hmmm, didn't know you could just fill it up like that. Normally I measure 35gr. into a powder measure then pour it in.

Thanks
Link Posted: 7/29/2005 3:10:28 PM EDT
[#5]

You can always use cornmeal as filler if you want to shoot some light loads.

Link Posted: 8/13/2005 2:12:56 AM EDT
[#6]
Would the same loads apply to a Pietta 1851 Navy in .44?  I'm taking mine out for the first time today, and I also found the manual pretty confusing.
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 10:17:30 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
Hmmm, didn't know you could just fill it up like that. Normally I measure 35gr. into a powder measure then pour it in.

Thanks


NO! You never "just fill it up like that"! What they meen is you can MEASURE as much power as will allow  you to still seat a ball and rotate the cylinder. I can't recall how much I've used (1851s and 1858) but I've done loads that shaved the end of the ball off when I rotated the cylinder.

YOU MUST ALWAYS MEASURE THE CHARGE!
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 10:22:44 AM EDT
[#8]

Quoted:
Would the same loads apply to a Pietta 1851 Navy in .44?  I'm taking mine out for the first time today, and I also found the manual pretty confusing.


I've got; 1 1851 round barrel brass frame, 1 1851 "confederate" octogon barrel brass frame, 1 1851 US Marshal short barrel steel frame.

I use a 25gr spout on my flask for plinking, but I have a T/C measurer that I use for 30-35gr loads for hunting or protection, I have fired many of those loads in the brass framed guns with no ill affects.
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 11:06:59 AM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
Would the same loads apply to a Pietta 1851 Navy in .44?  I'm taking mine out for the first time today, and I also found the manual pretty confusing.



Thats exactly what I shoot it out of . I dont think there were any 51' .44 cals maybe something the confederates hobbled together ???
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 12:12:15 PM EDT
[#10]
From what I've read, it's not a historically accurate gun.  It's definetly a Navy, has the naval battle scene engraved on the cylinder, and it's definetly .44cal.  I guess it's 25gr. for today then, this should be fun.
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 7:06:15 PM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
From what I've read, it's not a historically accurate gun.  It's definetly a Navy, has the naval battle scene engraved on the cylinder, and it's definetly .44cal.  I guess it's 25gr. for today then, this should be fun.



Mine is the "sherriffs model" from Cabelas , they say it's polished steel but I think it's actually a SS . It's got Fluted cylinders and engraving Its lasered but is kinda nice ! It's a neat little package w/ 4 1/2 " tube . I think I've shot 35 thru it too but but it already shoots about three feet high at 25 yds . . I've always had better luck w/ Remington styles as far as shooting goes .
Link Posted: 8/14/2005 5:23:52 PM EDT
[#12]
That's another thing, I've heard these guns tend to shoot high at 25 yards.  Are they closer to POA at a closer range, or am I going to have to make some adjustments to the front sight?  I was thinking maybe threading the nub thats on there and screwing on a brass tube that I can cut to adjust.
Link Posted: 8/14/2005 9:16:44 PM EDT
[#13]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Hmmm, didn't know you could just fill it up like that. Normally I measure 35gr. into a powder measure then pour it in.

Thanks


NO! You never "just fill it up like that"! What they meen is you can MEASURE as much power as will allow  you to still seat a ball and rotate the cylinder. I can't recall how much I've used (1851s and 1858) but I've done loads that shaved the end of the ball off when I rotated the cylinder.

YOU MUST ALWAYS MEASURE THE CHARGE!



Ok. I'll keep on using the powder measure.
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 6:07:37 AM EDT
[#14]

Quoted:
That's another thing, I've heard these guns tend to shoot high at 25 yards.  Are they closer to POA at a closer range, or am I going to have to make some adjustments to the front sight?  I was thinking maybe threading the nub thats on there and screwing on a brass tube that I can cut to adjust.



Every Colt type I've ever had shoots high (WAY) . On the 1851's it just how it is , Ive heard of one old gunfighter (dont remember who) said you aim at the croutch ! to hit center of mass .  Honestly the sights on Colts always struck me as an afterthought .
I own a 3rd model Draggoon , it came with folding rear sights mounted just in front of the Cylinder . Ive been told that those guns shot high for purpose ......hits at 100 yds , Its also cut for a shoulder stock but I dont think the origanals (1848 )were .

Well I tapped the sight out and used the hammer notch sight . I took it to a gunsmith who biult up the front sight with a penny . Then I filed it down till it was and is dead on at 25 yds .

I had big ideas of taking a big bear with it ..... . It is a .50 cal   ( .495 balls) and 70 grs 3F per cylinder ! The Caliber is defenatly not authentic .
Link Posted: 8/15/2005 6:12:33 AM EDT
[#15]

Quoted:
That's another thing, I've heard these guns tend to shoot high at 25 yards.  Are they closer to POA at a closer range, or am I going to have to make some adjustments to the front sight?  I was thinking maybe threading the nub thats on there and screwing on a brass tube that I can cut to adjust.



That brass nubb should unscrew . or you may have to drill it out retap the steel , Its not a big deal as these guns are soft . (HINT) to loosen ANY threaded "thing" try essence of wintergreen avalible at health food stores . Its a micicale worker !!!!! But there still wont be much to clamp onto .

( edited to add Im not really an idiot I just spell like one)
Link Posted: 8/17/2005 12:27:53 PM EDT
[#16]

Quoted:
From what I've read, it's not a historically accurate gun.  It's definetly a Navy, has the naval battle scene engraved on the cylinder, and it's definetly .44cal.  I guess it's 25gr. for today then, this should be fun.



As I understand it the .36 caliber models were called Navy models and the .44 caliber pistols were called Army models.  (in the 1800's)

The Colt model of 1851 was a Navy model because it was in .36.

The Colt model of 1860 was an Army model because it was in .44.

At least this is what I've read.

Kent
Link Posted: 9/7/2005 11:19:48 PM EDT
[#17]
IIRC, the '60 is a differant design.  I believe it uses a differant style loading lever?  Not exactly sure as I don't know all that much about BP revolvers but I remember reading that somewhere.

By the way, anyone know where I could get either some #11 nipples or a new main spring for my pistol?  Took it out shoot and half the cylinders needed two strikes.  Tried brand new CCI primers from two seperate tins bought weeks apart, and it was always random not on the same cylinders.  The suggestions made to me were either new main spring, or #11 nipples since they are a bit longer the hammer will put that much mroe force into setting off the caps.
Link Posted: 9/7/2005 11:58:37 PM EDT
[#18]

Quoted:
IIRC, the '60 is a differant design.  I believe it uses a differant style loading lever?  Not exactly sure as I don't know all that much about BP revolvers but I remember reading that somewhere.

By the way, anyone know where I could get either some #11 nipples or a new main spring for my pistol?  Took it out shoot and half the cylinders needed two strikes.  Tried brand new CCI primers from two seperate tins bought weeks apart, and it was always random not on the same cylinders.  The suggestions made to me were either new main spring, or #11 nipples since they are a bit longer the hammer will put that much mroe force into setting off the caps.



Dixe Guns . It has a geared or rachet type Vs. a "linkage" loading . I like #11 caps .
Or Cabelas
Link Posted: 9/8/2005 7:33:57 AM EDT
[#19]

Quoted:


By the way, anyone know where I could get either some #11 nipples or a new main spring for my pistol?  Took it out shoot and half the cylinders needed two strikes.  Tried brand new CCI primers from two seperate tins bought weeks apart, and it was always random not on the same cylinders.  The suggestions made to me were either new main spring, or #11 nipples since they are a bit longer the hammer will put that much mroe force into setting off the caps.



Is your hammer falling squarely on the nipples? My Pietta went out of time rather quickly,and would impact just a bit off,causing many random FTF. Eventually it got bad enough that the hammer started to impact on the cylinder itself.

Link Posted: 9/8/2005 10:42:43 PM EDT
[#20]
Nope, it's hitting dead on.  I actually think I might have found the problem. Tore it down last night and found the roller on the hammer has a small bur on it that stopped it from rolling.  I could see the spot on the wheel where it had rubbed shiny spots in itself, but the rest of the wheel was like new.  Don''t have the tools to polish up the sides of it but i cleaned it all well and hit it with CLIP, seems to roll well now.
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