Seem to be having a problem with how it is mounted, or it could be the scope.

Using a VOMZ (Russian from kalinka) scope mounted on a set of rings from academy (don't remember brand name) that seemed to be the only ones that held tight and didn't obstruct the ejecting case.

Well when I finally zeroed it in at 100 yards, the elevation knob (and I really like these knobs, they're very tight and stable) zeroed out at one click away from the lowest setting.  Meaning I can't lower the recticule for longer yardages.

what could it possibly be?

thanks.

-mark

Quoted: Simple question, but does the objective bell (front of the scope) clear the rear sight? The VOMZ scopes can have a huge 50mm objective.   If your rings are too short, your scope may be resting on top of the rear sight and be tipped up a bit instead of pointing straight down the barrel.  This would require extreme downward adjustment.  Can you slide a piece of paper between the scope and the rear sight? Nope, but it is pretty low.  It's actually a 32 objective, and it's close to the rear sight, but not touching it, I made sure of that.  Possibly thinking about getting rings that set the scope up a little higher, not sure where I can find those though. Another thing is that some Soviet style scopes have "adjustable" adjustments.  You may be able to remove the vertical adjustment knob and reset it to zero (median adjustment point)  to where you are now and then keep going down. This sounds like the perfect solution, but I wouldn't know where to start.  The instruction booklet that came with the scope is all in Russian. Also check the scope mount to be sure it is seated solidly in the receiver. Yep, without a doubt it is secured as can be.  I kept the zero through about 60 rounds probably and 2 range trips, I know everything is secure. HTH

I'd try to find a known good scope to try.

Dennis Jenkins

found this on Kalinka's site.

The manual in English, maybe someone can explain this a little better:

www.kalinkaoptics.com/Manuals/KOPOscopemanual.pdf

the part that I needed:

Sighting and Zeroing the Scope
IMPORTANT! Before mount-firing the scope, remove the windage and
the elevation turret covers. Tightly secure the gun at the firing station
using sand bags or special sighting rack to avoid shooter related
inaccuracy. After trial shots (4-5) have been made, adjust the reticule
position using the windage and the elevation turrets to reflect the average
striking point. One or two shots may deviate from the shot group, this is
normal, disregard those shots, and make adjustments based on the
concentrated group of shots. After the reticule has been adjusted to
deliver reasonable firing accuracy you’ll need to set the scale on the
elevation and the windage turrets back to the “0” position without
actually changing the set windage and elevation settings. To do so release
the two top screws and very carefully, without turning the turrets, adjust
the scale (little top disk ONLY) by aligning the “0” mark on the scale
with fixed mark on the scope. Tighten the screws and put the turret
covers back on, you are done. The scope is ready for use.
ATTENTION: The adjustment range for the windage and the
elevation turrets may exceed one full turn in either direction
resulting in having the scope being set to false “0”. In this case the
reticule will be significantly shifted off the center and won’t
represent the actual results of sighting. To avoid this, refrain from
excessively turning the turrets.

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I guess my question is how can I set the turrets back to zero (that part I understand) still continue after that to move the recticule down if I already hit the limit sighting it in?