The Kimber conversion operates as a blow back design, rather than as a delayed locking recoil operated design, like the original 1911.
To accomplish this the slide stop pin slides through the holes in the frame as well as through the hole in the barrel and essentially converts the 1911 to a fixed barrel, blowback slide design.
If the conversion unit's barrel and slide are properly fitted to the frame, you won't feel any drag - other than spring pressure as you retract the slide, and if you remove the spring and re-assemble it you should feel no drag at all as the slide is retracted.
If however you feel some roughness or drag on the slide as you retract it, then there isn't sufficient clearance and you'll need to relieve the slide stop pin a bit to increase clearance.
You relieve the slide stop pin because it's the cheap part and it much cheaper to replace than the slide or the barrel if you screw it up - and it won't screw up operation with the original 9mm or .45 ACP slide and barrel.
However, this also means you end up needing another slide stop to use as a dedicated part with your .22 LR conversion unit.
You can use a felt tip marker to observe where the pin is binding on the barrel and then use a file or Dremel tool to relieve the area on the pin with the missing ink in very small increments until you notice no more drag as you retract the slide (with the spring removed).
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I had to do exactly that when fitting a conversion unit to a JPE 1911 frame that I had used on a1911 with a .400 Corbon barrel before I retired it. But once done, it has been relentlessly reliable and not picky about ammo at all.