I'm new to AK's and can't find any reliable info on how to BZO/sight in the AK.
From what I've found he debate here is pretty much the same as with the AR...25, 36, 50 yards etc.
Can anyone point me into the right direction to find some info?

Easiest way... Put your sight leaf on 1 and set up a 100m target.


 

Most folks set battle zero at 25 yds with sight leaf on "N". This will get you minute of man typically out to about 300 yds. It's always a good idea to check at longer distances if course.

I prefer a 50 yd zero as it is the flattest trajectory.

Google AK manual, that will tell you how the Russians do it. How I do it. If you have 7.62x39 set rear sight at 200m. If you have 5.56 or 5.45 place rear sight leaf at 300m. Place target at 25m. That will get you a rough zero. Then move target to 100m, and rear leaf sight to 100m. The key is assuring you have the same hold for each shot.  I take bright colored duct tape and place a large plus sign on the target. By lining up on the horizontal and vertical lines I get the same hold. You want your POA and POI to line up under the tip of the front sight post. Once you are zeroed at 100m then the rifle is zeroed. Groupings should be around 3 to 5MOA. Move rear sight leaf to battle position which is equivalent to 300m. Your POI will now be high sub 300m, so your POA should be just above the front sight post from 0 to 300m.

<snip>This is a technical forum, leave your jokes in GD. dryflash3

Rear sight on '1', adjust front sight windage and elevation to bull's eye at 50 yds. Move to the 100 yd range and make fine adjustments to center. Now the whole range of the rear sight is indexed. For example, to shoot at 200, move the rear sight to '2'. The battle sight setting (letter) is the same as '3' or 300 meters. I just leave mine on '1'. You might try some 'Golden Tiger' ammo with boat-tail bullets for sighting in as it seems to be the most accurate non-corrosive surplus-type ammo.

Check out Travis Haley Adaptive Kalashnikov  he has a nice section on zeroing the 47&74.  I would zero like an AR for best strike zone between 0-300 no need to adjust sights for hits . Check out the videos though and it will give you some options.


http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=89f_1359493108

This.  

Well actually 200Y.   The bullet will cross LoS in the rising branch at around 50Y, and in the falling branch at around 200Y.  

It's better to zero at the longer distance and trust the closer than vice versa.  

Applies to irons and RDS alike.  With a BDC specific optic, it will have instructions on where to zero it and with what bullet/velocity it is tied to.  

--Fargo007

Do you put the slider covering the number 1, or on the line under the number 1?

The slider on the rear sight needs to go 'up to' the line for the position you want.  For example in this puc, the slider is upto the P / S:

This, except it's "1" setting at 25m (27yrds). At "1" and 50 yrds, your scale will be very off. There are dozens of videos showing the 25m/"1" and confirming at 100m.  .

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Saxman is correct. It is the best way to sight-in an AK.

Those of you who shoot 1" groups at 100 yards with an AK all day long,  never mind this method, just sight-in at 100 meters or 109 yards
and you're GTG.

there are many ways, but here is how I do it.

For 16" rifles -  put slider on 1 and do an initial zero at 50 yards, then fine tune at 100.

for my draco - put slider on rear battle setting and zero at 50, gives "combat hits" from 25 - 175 yards with a slight hold over (@ 175)