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Posted: 12/24/2003 6:57:48 PM EDT
[#1]
I believe the military suggests using a bronze bore brush to clean the bolt tail, though that seems really slow to me.
Personally, I use the mouth of a brass .308 empty case. (I occasionally square the mouth of the empty with a file to keep it sharp.) I’ve heard of guys using a pocketknife to clean it, but I prefer not to use steel on steel. I’ve also heard of guys using a wire brush in a Dremel tool to clean it. I suspect soaking it in Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter would also do it. |
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Posted: 12/24/2003 9:52:24 PM EDT
[#2]
I wipe it down with some CLP. That's it.
Hoppy |
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Posted: 12/24/2003 9:56:26 PM EDT
[#3]
I hit it with CLP and the front portion of the chamber brush (same curve), then hit any remnants with an ice pick.
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Posted: 12/27/2003 5:16:30 AM EDT
[#4]
Spray can of Berrymans Carburetor cleaner and small brass wire brush. Made for dissolving carbon and varnishes. Do it in a very well ventilated area, like outside. I don't even spray this stuff in the garage, vapors to strong. The stuff eats paint, finishes, plastics, carbon, graffiti on concrete walls, etc... Use gloves, the stuff can be absorbed through skin and cause permanent nerve damage. Lubricate thoroughly after.
My $0.02 |
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Posted: 12/27/2003 3:56:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Armalite's recommendation is to leave it. The build-up is self limiting and won't hurt anything.
If you really must go after it, I have used some elbow grease, some solvent, and an old bore brush. For the really stubborn chunks, I've had good success with a small penknife blade. Scrapes right off. |
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Posted: 12/27/2003 4:43:14 PM EDT
[#6]
Save one of your empty .223 cases and use the "mouth" of it to clean it. The Radius of the .223 case matches the radius of the bolt tail pretty good, it also catches the carbon inside the empty case.
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