Quoted: Run brush through a couple of times to lossen any large particles Run dry patch Run wet patch with wipeout accelator Spray wipeout in barrel
Let sit, go have dinner, watch TV come back in a couple of hours.
Run patches through until they come out clean usually less than 5
Disclaimer.... You will get nasty blue shit (copper) that runs out your barrel and will stain any surface. Just ask my wife about the stain.
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Sorry...but NO.
Disclaimer...I have been a Bench Rest shooter in the past, and this method is what guys use on $600 barrels that last for over 7,000 to 8,000 rounds that still shoot 2 tenths of an inch groups. They are NOT usually chrome lined barrels like MOST AR's, but the practice is sound for any metal surface to avoid damage to your barrel's lands and groovesFirst......Never, ever run anything through the barrel "DRY" as stated in first and second processes (dry brush, and dry patch) above except AFTER the barrel has been properly cleaned. You can and will scratch the interior wall of the barrel by "Grinding" all of the crap that's in your barrel (carbon, copper, brass, powder fouling) into the lands and grooves with your brush or your patch.
Always start with a few wet patches. THIS is what removes most of the things that can damage your barrel. THEN, run your WET brush with solvent applied through the barrel 10 strokes. Blow off your brush with some brake cleaner, "Gun Scrubber" or equivalent, and wet the brush with solvent and do 10 more strokes.
Next, run 2 or 3 more WET patches through, followed by 2 or 3 dry patches. (This is the only time to run anything DRY through the barrrel.
(If you have a "Chrome Lined" bore...skip this next process, as it's not necessary.)
To remove Copper ( only once every 500 rounds or so is necessary on a Chrome Moly barrel, or SS barrel.), it is recommended to first "Neutralize" the bore cleaner chemical (Hoppes, Shooters Choice etc.) with an agent like alcohol or acetone. (I prefer Acetone because it dries quickly with no residue.) The reason for this is that "Copper Solvents" have Ammonia in them as the active Copper Removing chemical, and it does not get along well with Bore Solvents. (Chemical Reactions that are unfavorable, but I'm not going to get into that. You'll have to trust me or do your own research.)
ALSO...NEVER LEAVE THE COPPER SOLVENT IN THE BARREL LONGER THAN 20 MINUTES. IT CAN AND WILL PIT THE BARREL!
After you run the Acetone down the barrel on a wet patch, proceed to run a patch with Copper Solvent (I use Sweets 7.62) and let it sit for no longer than 20 minutes. Follow with a few dry patches, and an Acetone patch to remove the Sweets. If you live in a arid environment...you're done, unless you are going to store the weapon for a long period of time. If so, finish with a patch of CLP, MD Labs XF-7 or some other "Rust Inhibitor".
If you shoot your weapon often, have a chrome lined barrel and live in a arrid climate, you really never need to put a protectant in the barrel. If however, you live in a humid or Salt Air region...always finish with a "Protectant", but be sure to run a dry patch down the tube before shooting.
Of course, if you don't want to give your barrel the TLC I have listed, have at it! It's your barrel!
Tack