Has anyone successfully cut down an A2 FSB to fit under a combat rail from MI?

No but it’s my understanding that the 12.625” is designed to snug up directly behind it.

I'm really pushing to use the 14" combat rail and maintain my pinned gas block.

The inside dimensions are stated as 1.3mm on the listing.

Can anyone confirm the height of thier cut down a2 sight?

If I kept the FSB I would get the two piece drop in rail from MI.

I did I cut the FSB, ground off as much as I could on my bench grinder, cleaned it up with my dremel, and finished off with a file so everything cleared.
In all took me about 2 hours to remove, cut, fit, and reinstall the whole project. Attached File

Your the man. Thank you.

I used the same rail as pictured above and fit great on my colt le6920. I cut down the fsb on it and had no fitment issues.

Sweet deal guys. Anyone else? Same rail?

What's your barrel length and rail length?

What's your barrel length and rail length?

16 FN/Spikes CHF optimal profile and 15" rail.

Would you mind letting me see were the rail ends at in relation to the muzzle device?

An older image when I first put it on and had my 1-4 Vortex on it.... go 15" these rails are stupid light and the added length is nice for attaching a bi-pod really far out leaving ample room for other stuff or support when shooting off something like a Y in a tree branch.  I use this rifle a lot for hog hunting and sometimes grass is to high for bi-pod use so I find myself finding making do with the environment.  I also have the lightweight variant with mlok slots across the top maybe it helps let heat out when I shoot rapid fire in 3-gun.  This is my 3-gun AR also i just pop off the light and I am ready to go.
Attached File

Nice. I like that you use a standard flash hider. And thanks for the extra info on the rail. Real big help

16" M4 govt profile barrel with 15" rail.

To be honest I used to use all the wonder muzzle device but they cost a lot of $$$ and not a whole lot of change.  Yes muzzle breaks mitigate some recoil but the difference is pretty minimal on a 223/5.56 rifle but the boom and concussion annoy my tinnitus more than what they are worth to me.  So most all my rifles have standard A2's on them.  I am not air dropping into the middle east for a covert mission to knock off some high value target where my flash would get me killed or doing some super dooper black ops top secret missions so the A2 is way more that sufficient.  Rather spend the money on ammo, mags, range membership, and upgrading my optics line up.  If I get a suppressor someday I will change the muzzle devices but not going to drop a ton of coin on that till I decide on suppressor.

On the FSB cutting few things to note you will need to contour the front of the gas block to fit under the handguard and you can take off more material than you might think especially from the font.  I hack saw off the A portion about a minute to cut it off and the bayonet lug, bench ground down as much as I could since it makes much shorter work of the removing material than the dremel.  Once you get the gas block shaped 95% that is when you can keep using the dremel or file to remove any excess that might be to close or touching inside the handguard.  If you have never removed the taper pins or never removed taper pins in general either get an armorer's block for removing the front sight or make one from a 2x4.  Use a punch that has a lot of surface area to contact the pin I have a really large probably 1/2" punch I use to get the pins moving.  They may be in there tight so it will take a good whack do not be delicate and use a BFH to get it moving.  Once you get them moving it is cake walk but sometimes they are tight in there and need a swift hard strike to budge them.  When reinstalling them I use my small handheld sledge and a normal ball peen hammer get the pins in about 90-95% and rest the sledge on the pen head and strike the sledge to with the ball peen hammer as I hate missing a punch and striking my hand to seat the pin.

EdgecrusherXES

Thanks a lot for the helpful info about the front sight post. I can do the removal without issue.

But do you think it could be done without removing the FSB To check the fitment? Or just go ahead and remove it?  

As far as the flash hider goes. I'll probably always keep the A2 because even under night Vision in baghdad I never got washed out so severely I couldn't see, if we had to shoot shit. I'm not against trying new flash hider. Like you said. The money is spent better in other areas.


Consider this maybe. Not the best. But it works. Like you said before. Not on missions. Lol
http://www.internationalsportsman.com/silencer-shop-authority-gemtech-gmt-halo-review/

This muzzle device is what I would get.
https://www.forwardcontrolsdesign.com/6315KM-12x28_p_191.html

We used A2’s on our M16s and M4s and it was never an issue either.

The front sight base can be left in place but I removed it so it was much easier to move it around and get a clean grind at whatever angle I could.

I want the OSS Helix if I do a rifle suppressor.

Hey thanks for all the help and good chat about a highly debated subject. Lol.

Welcome to ARFCOM and not starting a troll thread.  Post pics of the rifle when you get it done!

I'll be sure to do that. Thank you.

Ok. Now I know that the FSB cut down will fit under a MI combat rail.

Should I go with the T combat rail free float or the Mlok combat rail. I like both. And need different views and opinions. PROS and CONS of each. convince of your preferred. Right now I'm a picatinny guy because of time behind my M4 in the service. 11Bravo.

This rail would be going on a 16" barrel. Its literally my everything gun. HD, range and travel companion. Convince me which rail would be best. thanks and looking forward to your opinions.