Painting fire and safe

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Painting fire and safe

Posted: 10/4/2005 6:20:55 AM EDT

Hey guys...I've seen a couple people who have painted the stampings in the lower receiver and can't find out how they did it. You know, the "Fire" stamp will be painted red and the "Safe" stamp will be white, or something similar. Who's done this and how'd you do it.

Thanks,

-Jbot

Posted: 10/4/2005 9:11:13 AM EDT

[#1]

I know that Denny does it on his guns with a pen. I'm pretty sure it's something you might be able to find locally.

Maybe he will see this thread and post it again.

Posted: 10/4/2005 11:02:12 AM EDT

[#2]

Try your auto parts store.

Dupont makes a touch up tube with a brush/pen cap combination.

Posted: 10/4/2005 1:35:03 PM EDT

[#3]

Yes, I am serious.

Posted: 10/4/2005 2:31:03 PM EDT

[#4]

Lacquerstiks from Brownells.

Posted: 10/4/2005 2:39:45 PM EDT

[#5]

Quoted:
www.dcet.k12.de.us/teach/mrsk/Julie%20Supplies%20Photos/Crayons%2024-pk.jpg

Yes, I am serious.

I heard they'll melt right out in the AZ sun.

be very careful when you fill in your markings. I keep seeing lowers where the excess isn't wiped away enough and when the poor bastards take a picture, you can see ALL of the leftover white buried in the anodizing all around the "infected" area...

Posted: 10/4/2005 2:40:20 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
www.dcet.k12.de.us/teach/mrsk/Julie%20Supplies%20Photos/Crayons%2024-pk.jpg

Yes, I am serious.

warm up the spot to fill, it goes flows right in....

Posted: 10/4/2005 3:51:03 PM EDT

[#7]

I used paint.been on for 2 yrs and has not come off or changed from cleaning.I put some on just enough to cover 1/2 or so and wiped it off.let the smear stay over nite and take some thinner and q-tips and clean off the smear.it comes off easily.just dont get it too wet w/solvent or it will remove the stuff out from the roll.once it cures good a week or so it stays so if you dont get it filled in too good you can touch up then.I did mine because it matches my HKs and I liked the red and white.one of these days I want to try out tom sawyers pictogram on the safety , I know HK it aint.

Posted: 10/4/2005 4:19:49 PM EDT

[#8]

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I'm thinking that paint is the way to go, what with the "paint the whole area, wipe off excess" attack. It's my first build (my first firearm, actually), so I don't want to do something to screw it right off the bat.

-Jbot

Posted: 10/4/2005 4:43:47 PM EDT

[#9]

Testers paint,
Fill in the area's, and if your get a little outside the lines, let the paint set up for a min, then use hoppes oil to wipe off the paint that on the flats (not in the groove). Take your time just lighty rubbing the flats and the paint will stay in the grooves.

Posted: 10/4/2005 6:04:52 PM EDT

[#10]

Quoted:
Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I'm thinking that paint is the way to go, what with the "paint the whole area, wipe off excess" attack. It's my first build (my first firearm, actually), so I don't want to do something to screw it right off the bat.

-Jbot

that "wipe the excess off" is what I see in a lot of pictures. looks like poopoo.

here's a little red and white paint for you =====>>>

Posted: 10/4/2005 8:04:02 PM EDT

[#11]

Never never use Testers Model paint, my LMT lower has the white wash look around the model and LMT and I can't get it off.

Posted: 10/4/2005 8:17:02 PM EDT

[#12]

that's one of the ones I remembered seeing. Be careful folks, you don't want to scar your rifles for their entire lives!

Posted: 10/4/2005 8:17:33 PM EDT

[#13]

that's one of the ones I remembered seeing. Be careful folks, you don't want to scar your rifles for their entire lives!

Posted: 10/4/2005 8:56:26 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
www.dcet.k12.de.us/teach/mrsk/Julie%20Supplies%20Photos/Crayons%2024-pk.jpg

Yes, I am serious.

+1
that turned out real nice on my M4gery, i used a little hoppes cleaner to remove the crayon mess around the markings after i was done. it has held up really well too

Posted: 10/5/2005 2:12:38 AM EDT

[#15]

All of these suggestions are very good. However, how many of us have those supplies laying around. Now, how many of us have a box of Crayons laying around.

I personally think it is teh ghey to mark your lower. But, to each his own ya know.

Posted: 10/5/2005 4:04:32 AM EDT

[#16]

Hey Jesus.

check out this site (follow instructions 1-5 after accepting responsibility (never understood that part)

Lettering firearms web page

Posted: 10/5/2005 5:06:51 AM EDT

[#17]

Quoted:
Never never use Testers Model paint, my LMT lower has the white wash look around the model and LMT and I can't get it off.

Even the Testers paint thinner didn't get off the excess???

Posted: 10/5/2005 6:14:44 AM EDT

[#18]

OK, wait a minute. You really are serious about Crayons?! Do you finish it off with something to seal it? That can't possibly work, can it?

I'm thinking now that automotive paint pens (touch up pens) would be the cleanest way.

Though, what's wrong with using paint and a brush and, instead of letting it set for any amount of time, just wipe it off while it's fresh and wet?

-Jbot

Posted: 10/5/2005 6:19:10 AM EDT

[#19]

Redfisher;

That's a pretty good instructional, but I think that I'm going to try and go with paint. Much more permanent. I guess that the same as a Crayon, huh...

-Jbot

Posted: 10/5/2005 6:27:56 AM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:
Testers paint,
Fill in the area's, and if your get a little outside the lines, let the paint set up for a min... Take your time just lighty rubbing the flats and the paint will stay in the grooves.

A Big +1

I used a tooth pick as a brush. Dip the pick into the paint and wipe off most of it on the edge of the bottle. Lightly dab the paint into the void/lettering. For clean up, if you get outside the lettering, I used "Prep-Sol" which you can find at any auto parts store that sells professional auto paint. Lacquer thinner also works well and use a Q-Tip or a rag over the tip of your finger. Oil dosn't seem to affect it along with "gun scrubber" during cleaning.

Posted: 10/5/2005 6:41:34 AM EDT

[#21]

they are recommending you wipe the excess off after it's dried is because trying to wipe it when it's wet will soak up the paint in the lettering. It will wick it out to the surface as the surface paint is being wiped away.

Posted: 10/5/2005 6:50:24 AM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
Quoted:
Testers paint,
Fill in the area's, and if your get a little outside the lines, let the paint set up for a min... Take your time just lighty rubbing the flats and the paint will stay in the grooves.

A Big +1

I used a tooth pick as a brush. Dip the pick into the paint and wipe off most of it on the edge of the bottle. Lightly dab the paint into the void/lettering. For clean up, if you get outside the lettering, I used "Prep-Sol" which you can find at any auto parts store that sells professional auto paint. Lacquer thinner also works well and use a Q-Tip or a rag over the tip of your finger. Oil dosn't seem to affect it along with "gun scrubber" during cleaning.

OK, now we are talking. That sounds like the way right there. Toothpick...who'd a thunk it?

-Jbot

Posted: 10/6/2005 5:25:49 AM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:
Toothpick...who'd a thunk it?

BTW: you can take your pocket knife/utility knife and sharpen the tip of the tooth pick to get a thinner tip.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Painting fire and safe

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