I finished all the machining (if you can call it that) on my 80% lower I've had in my <a  style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=29&k=tool%20box" onmouseover="window.status='tool box'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">tool box</a> for the last 6 years. Only took me 6 years and about $300 in tools.

The buffer tube is just a hair off center but the bolt carrier cycles fine. I drilled the rear take down detent pin hole crooked so the rear pin does not go all the way in before the detent pin catches the TD pin. The TD pin sticks out about 1/8" but works.

I didn't have the capability to widen the inside of the lower for the trigger group to fit so I narrowed the trigger group assy with my trusty, dusty <a  style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=29&k=bench%20grinder" onmouseover="window.status='bench grinder'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">bench grinder</a>.

I used a jig from CNC to drill all the holes. Works great. Worth the money.

The upper is a Model 1 Sales, <a  style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=29&k=7%2062x39" onmouseover="window.status='7.62x39'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">7.62x39</a> upper. The carry handle is a CNC, A1 carry handle.

Now I have to find someone to hard coat anodize it and them I'm done. I don't think I'll be doing to many of these. I's a lot of work.







(Update, IT WORKS)

Have you had a chance to fire it yet, or are you holding off until you get it anodized?

I'm going to shoot it next weekend to make sure it works, then I'll tear it down and get it coated.

Any suggestions on where to send it for hard coat anodizing?

Edited; Oh yeah, and now to design a logo and pick a serial number.

Greetings,
I have been looking into anodizing also.  I have found this place:
http://www.hiawathametalcraft.com/index.html
Since your post is noted from MN I thought I would let you know this place is in Mpls.
I have also just finished an 80%'er and need to anodize also.
They have several options, I am just not sure which one would be the best for a receiver.
They can do colors also.. If you go with them let me know how it goes...

Quoted: Greetings, I have been looking into anodizing also.  I have found this place: www.hiawathametalcraft.com/index.html Since your post is noted from MN I thought I would let you know this place is in Mpls. I have also just finished an 80%'er and need to anodize also. They have several options, I am just not sure which one would be the best for a receiver. They can do colors also.. If you go with them let me know how it goes...

Quoted: I'm going to shoot it next weekend to make sure it works, then I'll tear it down and get it coated. Any suggestions on where to send it for hard coat anodizing? Edited; Oh yeah, and now to design a logo and pick a serial number.

www.tanneryshop.com/COATING.html

Quoted: Oh yeah, and now to design a logo and pick a serial number.

Take a look at my link for ideas on logo and custom serial number.

Tom Sawyer Mfg Gun Engraving link

Quoted: I'm going to shoot it next weekend to make sure it works, then I'll tear it down and get it coated. Any suggestions on where to send it for hard coat anodizing? Edited; Oh yeah, and now to design a logo and pick a serial number.

Dump the serial number and go with an OAN (owner applied number).

I've been wondering why anyone would want to buy and finish an 80% lower. Now I'm REALLY wondering! I thought, perhaps wrongly (I'm sure someone more knowledgeable in this area will correct me), that an individual could build a weapon from an 80% lower without any sort of registration/identification, as long as the weapon was never sold.  

Looks good. I spent some time on two 0% lowers this weekend. I agree they are alot of work but it is very satisfying.

You might think about anodizing it yourself. The largest expense is usually the bettery charger that is the electrical source.

Quoted: Dump the serial number and go with an OAN (owner applied number).

Big +1...

If that thing gets stolen, it will make the poor sap that is trying to enter it as stolen's life much easier..

did you use a hand drill or a drill press?hinking.gif

I used an upright drill press. I had to hand drill the hole for the mag catch relese spring pin cause the drill bit was too small for my large drill press. I used the lower receiver blueprint sheet found here on AR15.com but I think a lot of the hole dimensions are wrong. I ended up drilling almost every hole to small.

I used a demilled M16 lower receiver to get the hole sizes as I stopped trusting the blueprint. I may have to enlarge some of the really tight holes before I get it anodized otherwise I might not get the pins back in. I had to use some force to get it assembled as it is.

Unless you have a special reason to ship the lower out for anodizing, have it done locally. Most plating shops also do anodizing. Call around and find out. You'll save yourself some time and money. They can turn it around in a day or two, and there are no shipping charges. You will have to make sure they have an FFL if the lower stays over night since it is now a completed firearm receiver, and they'll have to log it into their disposition book, which means you'll have to put some serial number on it.

Took it to the range today, and it works very well. I used my 7.62x39 upper to test it and in runs like a champ. I had to use my T168 scope on it because Model 1 Sales shipped my upper without the front sight post, detent, or spring. Now to stip it back down, try and fizx the rear takedown pin hole, get it engraved and then anodized.

It will be my dedicated hunting rifle.

Fired my new .45 Oly Arms upper as well. Failed to eject 3 rounds out of 15 and caused a double feed. Probably just needs some more breaking in time. I use my A1 removeable carry handle I got from CNC and it shot way high. I'll try a standard A2 CH tommorrow and see if it is CH related. I fired it with my Aimpoint off my M4 and it hit pretty close to center mass at 50 yard. The crappy 10 round Uzi mag it comes with is a freaking bitch to load past 7 rounds. I'm in the process of modifying a grease gun mag to work in a standard lower. Need to get it welded before I can test it out.

Congratulations Tangochaser on a successful build!  A couple of things you might want to think about regarding anodizing.  The two most common anodizing types are defined by AMS-A-8625 (used to be MIL-A-8625).  They are Sulfuric anodizing (or Type II) and Hard coat (Type III).  The short of the long is sulfuric anodizing also sometimes called "decorative anodizing" creates a very thin coating on top of the aluminum to protect against oxidation.  Sulfuric anodizing can be clear (no dye or Class 1) or colored (dyed or Class 2).  The process doesn't impart a color to the aluminum so many different dyes are available to give you the look you want.  The best example of sulfuric anodizing is the Maglight flashlight.  The down side of sulfuric anodizing is that it doesn't have good wear resistance.  If you own and use a Maglight you know what I'm talking about.  On the other hand there is Hard coat which has excellent wear properties (which can be further improved with the addition of Teflon).  Hard coat is a very different process which requires a chilled bath and very expensive rectifiers to control the current and voltage.  Hard coat actually builds up an aluminum oxide coat on the aluminum surface.  This coating is typically .001" to .002" thick.  This means holes get smaller and the outside gets larger on the part.  Before the hard coat is applied the part is stripped in a very strong etch.  This serves to not only to clean the part but also to remove about .001" of the material on the surface.  This minimizes the "growth" of the part.  However you can expect holes to shrink anywhere from .001" to .002" on the diameter.  In other words if your pin holes are tight now and you hard coat you won't be able to get your pins in!  You may have already known this, but it might help somebody.

-yj

Oh yeah, I almost forgot.  If you choose hard coat, you might do yourself a favor and stone any sharp edges and lightly countersink the holes in the receiver.  Hard coat is a ceramic (aluminum oxide) so it is brittle.  At a sharp corner there is nothing for the coating to adhere to so it's very easy to chip the coating and expose the substrate beneath.  

I'll second yellowjacket's congratulations.  It's a pretty good feeling to finish an 80% lower and have it run right.  I hope you're pleased with your results.