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Posted: 8/4/2005 4:09:07 AM EDT
[#1]
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Posted: 8/4/2005 6:37:11 AM EDT
[#2]
LOST PIC
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Posted: 8/4/2005 6:50:10 AM EDT
[#3]
It's not even a rifle.  
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Posted: 8/4/2005 7:56:50 AM EDT
[#4]
oops bad grammer sorry
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Posted: 8/4/2005 10:12:05 AM EDT
[#5]
What exactly are you looking for? |
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Posted: 8/5/2005 7:18:53 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm looking for pics of the different colors. Last time I checked their web site, it only had written discriptions of the colors, no actual pics.
Thanks for the pic ROUGH. |
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Posted: 8/5/2005 9:55:13 AM EDT
[#7]
I asked because there were Norrells threads running on the page when you posted your question.
Is there something specific (a certain color) that you are looking for that you aren't seeing? Bandwidth is an issue, and I have zero desire to repost all the pictures that are already posted if you are going to say I want to see OD Green, when it is on the front page of this section already. This question has been posted plenty of times before, so again I ask, what are you looking for? |
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Posted: 8/5/2005 2:29:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Well I see the pic of FLAT GreyBlack, and their is a thread on the browns and Olive Green. Anyone have pics of the GreenishGray? My search functions are limited to the last 30 days.
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Posted: 8/5/2005 11:02:20 PM EDT
[#9]
Ahhh, sadly that is one of the ones I do not have. Not only that, but it is a hard color to get accurate pictures of. Someone ended up with a wrong bottle and had some decent pictures of it, but I can't remember who it was. Maybe they will see this and post. I'm sorry I can't be of more help on this one. |
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Posted: 8/6/2005 3:09:19 AM EDT
[#10]
Thanks for the attempt Stick. I guess the only real way to know is to actually buy the stuff. Pictures rarely do the actual colors justice anyways. I'm sure the subtleties between black, grey black, and green black would be extremely hard to capture with a pic unless your a pro.
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Posted: 8/6/2005 9:55:17 AM EDT
[#11]
Even as a pro, the differences in monitor settings make all the hard work and setup look like a cruel joke.
I think you are correct is figuring you may just have to take the plunge. If you don't like it, you can always recoat over the top of it. Just remember that it is temperature sensitive, and curing at above the 300 degrees may get you an unwanted color shift. |
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Posted: 8/7/2005 10:50:17 AM EDT
[#12]
These are pictures I posted on sturmgewehr's board of guns I recently refinished. About 247 people have looked at it, the log says, since I posted it a little over a week ago; a lot of people want to see the colors. b
On the photos I posted, move the cursor to the right... tschiemer Gray and green http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=500/8040Picture_005-med.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=500/8040Picture_006-med.jpg http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=500/8040Picture_007-med.jpg semi gloss black http://www.hunt101.com/watermark.php?file=500/804018148SSR-85B_Left-med.jpg light gray and grayish black *ps: the one on the left is listed by me on the wtt board - a plug while i am at this!* http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/tschiemer/Picture127.jpg flat black http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b15/tschiemer/419733ae.jpg   
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Posted: 8/7/2005 11:00:19 PM EDT
[#13]
He posted that he is looking for greenish gray. I don't see that in any of those pics, or am I missing it? |
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Posted: 8/8/2005 5:13:43 AM EDT
[#14]
His first question was basically asking for photos of all the colors, so I was responding to that request.
Since hunt101's server is in renovation and still does not have the archival photo of grayish green I had posted there, I do not have grayish green photos of any thing I have refinished. Here is a photo of a gun I refinished this week before I oiled it down: Move the cursor to the right to see both photos; I took this set yesterday. Robert  
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Posted: 8/8/2005 8:12:31 AM EDT
[#15]
GRAYISH-BLACK Flat
Before:  After:  To match a Colt M16A1 upper: 
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Posted: 8/8/2005 10:01:32 AM EDT
[#16]
So how close/far off is the Gray-Black Flat from a standard AR finish, like on an LMT or Bushmaster Upper?
Is Gray-Black Flat the color to get if you don't want to paint all your uppers? |
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Posted: 8/8/2005 10:18:23 AM EDT
[#17]
thanks for all the pics guys, I'm really starting to like the grey-black.
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Posted: 8/8/2005 6:43:25 PM EDT
[#18]
This is a refinish job I did for Gungho_1989 on his 870. I did it in Norrell's OD green. I thought it came out great!!
 
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Posted: 8/9/2005 7:31:49 AM EDT
[#19]
A Bushmaster would be closer to my 'before' photo except for the famous purple ones  . Same with late model Colts. My early '90's Colt is light gray (Norell's Gray-Black) & my 2001 Colt is black. I believe most companies use a dark gray/black finish. |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 12:20:59 PM EDT
[#20]
Top receiver is original Colt's anodizing, lower is Norrell's flat black:
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Posted: 8/9/2005 2:14:07 PM EDT
[#21]
SOCOM is the color to get if you are looking to match the most items.
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Posted: 8/9/2005 2:22:32 PM EDT
[#22]
I'm the "wrong bottle guy". I do have to say that Norrell's REALLY stepped up to the plate to make it right for me.
I have since covered up the wrong color with the color I wanted, so this is the best I can do pic-wise. The pipe is actually the grey, the frame is the greyish-green, the flames are a 50/50 mix of gray and black which turns out to be virtually identical to "gray-black" (ironic huh?). 
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Posted: 8/9/2005 2:24:49 PM EDT
[#23]
or you could hit "enter" in between the dang pics so we don't have to. |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 2:50:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Hopefully my bottle hasn't shipped yet....... |
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Posted: 8/9/2005 3:04:42 PM EDT
[#25]
tag
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Posted: 8/9/2005 3:27:33 PM EDT
[#26]
Semi-gloss Grayish black, both upper and lower:
 
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Posted: 8/9/2005 3:41:07 PM EDT
[#27]
Here is the same lower in grayish black semi-gloss with a Colt M16A1 upper with the original finish:
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Posted: 8/9/2005 5:10:55 PM EDT
[#28]
or you could hit "enter" in between the dang pics
Glad to learn that. Robert |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 3:59:59 AM EDT
[#29]
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Handguns/lefta.JPG
frame in Norrells OD green slide and small parts in flat black. I like it and intend to do the next 1911 in grey flat, I've used it on magazines and it looks great. Looking to do a new AR in the same pattern as the green 1911. GS |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 4:06:09 AM EDT
[#30]
 Incidentally, that holster wear on the front of the slide happened the very first day I carried the gun. Not sure what the deal is with that. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 4:34:57 AM EDT
[#31]
My 1911 now has an almost identical mark. But it seems to stop after that. Nice looking 1911 by the way. GS
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Posted: 8/10/2005 6:51:27 AM EDT
[#32]
The Norrells website had now been updated to read....
I've held off on using parts for a day or so as I felt there was something to be gained. I guess Mr.Norrell had a better answer with newly cured parts.  I'm not sure that this would have mattered with the initial wear, but I think its possible it might have prevented it. This is of course assuming that the surface was prepped correctly before application. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 11:58:38 AM EDT
[#33]
First time using Moly Resin
Before  After   Not very good pic's. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 1:28:04 PM EDT
[#34]
Good job Bandit68, now.... prepare for the addiction to grow and for ALL of your friends to want it done!
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Posted: 8/10/2005 2:07:09 PM EDT
[#35]
Says one crackhead to the other...... 
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Posted: 8/10/2005 5:31:09 PM EDT
[#36]
Cool - how did you prep the surface? Mostly everything I've seen sprayed with Moly was either anodized or parkerized, both of which have more "texture" for the moly to "stick" to. I would be curious how well it will hold up when applied over traditional blueing? Stick - do you (or anybody else?) have any long term experience with moly over blueing? Thanks |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 6:08:12 PM EDT
[#37]
Yes, don't do it, and it doesn't take long term experience to figure it out. Its just plain bad. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 6:29:06 PM EDT
[#38]
I agree with Stick, I blast all my parts in a blasting cabinet that I got from Harbor Freight for around $150.00. I use 80-90 grit aluminum oxide and have had extremely good luck since implementing that tool. You need to rough up the blued surface at the very least. Preferably blast, park then molyresin. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 6:43:38 PM EDT
[#39]
That's pretty much what I was thinking. Thanks CAR-15. Blasting first sounds like the way to go. One of these days I need to get a blast cabinet but first I need to get a bigger compressor. |
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Posted: 8/10/2005 6:54:32 PM EDT
[#40]
Yeah, that was the dillema that I went through when setting all of this up. I had to break down and get a bigger compressor. But.... once you do and get the cabinet, you will never look back. Your productivity goes through the roof. I could probably do 5-7 shotguns in an 8 hour time frame. That is complete dis-assembly, blast, degrease, molyresin and bake. The blast cabinet makes prep-work a non issue. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 12:27:24 PM EDT
[#41]
Cool - how did you prep the surface? Mostly everything I've seen sprayed with Moly was either anodized or parkerized, both of which have more "texture" for the moly to "stick" to. I would be curious how well it will hold up when applied over traditional blueing? Stick - do you (or anybody else?) have any long term experience with moly over blueing? Thanks My Blasting Cabinet was broken , and I could not wate to try this stuff. So I just hit it with some 400 grit sandpaper , and it worked perty good. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 1:40:12 PM EDT
[#42]
How intense are the fumes during and after baking ? I am interested in doing a 870 and my first Lower build I completed last night. I am afraid that the wife would kick me out of the house if I try it in the Kitchen and we can't use the oven ever again! Do the fumes disappear or do they linger in the oven forever ?
Rich |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 1:55:48 PM EDT
[#43]
I really haven't noticed much in the way of fumes durring the baking process at all. The spraying process is another story entirely. I went and bought a respirator as recomended on Norrell's website because it was giving me headarches. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 1:59:56 PM EDT
[#44]
Stick and others can probably tell you some of their experiences but I heat the parts up pretty good in the oven, my oven will only go down to 170°F so I just leave them in for a little bit and try and make sure that the temp is a little above 100° give or take a little, I probably usually am on the high side because by the time I get everything outside and set up, it has cooled a little. But anyway, lightly spray them with the Norrell and the heated parts will usually dissapate the solvents pretty well. Alot of times, I will let the parts sit in the garage till the next day and here in South Mississippi, our garages are plenty hot so by the time I put them in the oven, there are little to no smells. My wife is VERY TICKY about anything that smells odd so trust me, she hasn't shot me yet so it must not by too bad.
Stick, I've been using a blasting cabinet and some 70 grit aluminum oxide with great results but here is my one problem. After blasting the parts, I take them in and wash them with hot soapy water and get everything off of them. I have the oven preheated to 250° and stick the parts in there to try and quickly dry them. But.....sometimes, I have slight haze of rust appearance on the surface, very light. so I usually go and lightly blast them again. What could I do to stop this. Is blowing the part off with a high pressure hose good enough after blasting or do I need to wash them? What is everyone's opinion on this one? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks for any help on this one. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 2:34:14 PM EDT
[#45]
Shorty.. you and I will probably have the same problems. Living in MS and FL we got to deal with humidity, I am only 10 miles from the ocean also. Quite often with welding when I grind and then clean/wash/weld if I wait too long to spray the part (a few minutes sometimes!) I too will rust. Last weekend the wife screwed up painting the front door, I had to strip all the paint and then coat it with phosphoric acid (same thing to remove gun blue) since it's a steel door. I waited till' the next morning to paint and when I opened the door it was all surface rust!
You may try to extract all the moisture out that you can as quickly as possible by using a heat gun. I feel your pain, I just bought the 5 year old his first Chipmunk and the bolt is in white!! I tried some Brownells Ospho Paste and it turned the bottom of the bolt more green than blue. I am going to call them in the AM (forgot today) and ask what they suggest since the cocker in the back that is checkered is already showing signs of rust. I got a 1610sq ft. garrage so I got plenty of space to spray but I am planning on moving to a NFA friendly state in the next few months or so and I can't justify buying an oven just for a couple of guns. Sure going to miss the old steel garrage but I already set rules with the wife on the new place, if it does not have a large, seperate (want to get my FFL) garrage/office I'll be building a concrete block building as soon as we move in! Rich |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 3:09:30 PM EDT
[#46]
way off topic, but you're already in one. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 3:17:06 PM EDT
[#47]
You may want to consider using carb cleaner or brake cleaner to spray it down instead of water. This woudl get you to the spraying stage quicker, which should take care of your rust issues. At a dollar a can, the brake cleaner isn't going to add much to your bill. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 4:22:41 PM EDT
[#48]
I find that the brake cleaner or carb cleaner leaves a residue on the metal. I tried the water method like shorty and got the same results (light rust). My solution (albeit an expensive one) was to order Trustrip from Duracoat. I got the 1-gallon jug so I just pop the top and dip the part for just about anything other than a barrel. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 4:35:32 PM EDT
[#49]
Whatever residue that is left on from brake cleaner is negligible. I have NEVER had it cause a problem. |
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Posted: 8/11/2005 4:42:55 PM EDT
[#50]
Use a diferent brand if you have had issues.
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