NFA yes... NFA friendly No... I live in the southern portion where I would need to do a corp or such to get a signoff. Not the reason I am moving but it sure is something I am looking at when I chose where to live. If I had lived 2 miles north over the county line yes... it would be very NFA friendly here!

I am doing as much as I can gunsmithing with what I have here, these spray finishes is one of those things since it does not take much in the way of equipment or setup. I am also thinking of parkerizing but will wait till' after the move. I expect to use some of the sale $$ from this place to set up a nice shop at our next home. Toyed with smithing' for years but never was ready to do it as seriously as I am now.

Yeah, I bought a cheap degreaser and dang if it doesn't seem to be oily when I spray it.  Will a carb cleaner work the same?  I'll try a "better cheap" kind  I guess I can't expect a whole lot from a .99 can of something from Autozone.  Thanks guys.  GS

Quoted: Yeah, I bought a cheap degreaser and dang if it doesn't seem to be oily when I spray it.  Will a carb cleaner work the same?  I'll try a "better cheap" kind  I guess I can't expect a whole lot from a .99 can of something from Autozone.  Thanks guys.  GS

I would think you would want brake cleaner for use as a degreaser. I don't know how well carb cleaner would work.

Thanks, I try that next week.  GS

How much does it take to do an AR? I was wondering if 8 ounces is enough for a rifle and it's accessories. TIA

When baking do you just lay the parts on the rack or hang them under it?  As the finish is already dry when it goes in the oven I wasn't sure if touching the rack would leave aeny marks.  So far I have hung parts, but sometimes it is a pain.

Quoted: When baking do you just lay the parts on the rack or hang them under it?  As the finish is already dry when it goes in the oven I wasn't sure if touching the rack would leave aeny marks.  So far I have hung parts, but sometimes it is a pain.

Yes, it will leave marks if you set the parts on something even though they seem "dry".  I always hang my parts now after learning the hard way.  I built a real simple rack out of some 2x4s and all-thread for spraying and I use clothes hangers for the wire.  Then all I have to do is grab the hanger & move the part to the oven.

Wire clothes hangers now that's something I have not seen in ages!

Quoted: Wire clothes hangers now that's something I have not seen in ages!

The drycleaners have given me tons of them over the months/years and I manage to re-use alot of the hangers I make.

I have used the same cleaners for at least 11 years so maybe what I thought was standard is not. The hangers I get are 1/2 wire and 1/2 cardboard (for the bottom part which is the best!). Also I have become the typical Florida working stiff and have gone from pressed shirts and ties in the early 90's to T-Shirts and Jeans, I don't need to get to the cleaners very much anymore. Since then my stock of cardboard has also gone to nothing, sure did love those 8x10 pieces of cardboard for painting and
epoxy mixing.  

After reading this thread for the past week or so I think' it's time to take the jump, everyone seems very happy with Norrell's I was unsure of what to get Lauer or Norrell. I guess it all boils down to color and personal taste, both companies have very loyal followers.

Rich

Now I got another last question. KG Gun Coat... I have seen many talk about it on the forums. Any reason not to go with GK ? I know there are fewer selections than Lauer but there are more than Norrells and a pint will only set you back $26 while 8 oz of Norrells is $23 and 8oz of Lauer is $29.
8oz concerns me a bit, don't you lose quite a bit of that pouring it in and out of the air bursh that never get's to go back into the container. I guess you can always buy 4 oz air brush bottles and just store the remaining finish in those any suggestions on how to get the most of it for your money ? I plan on doing my 870 with Mesa Tactical stock, my DPMS Lower and 2 tone my .45 Commander.


I was thinking of the MillSpec Green and Gun Metal Grey.

Rich

Alot (or at least the two I have) of airbrushes come with a cup that siphons off the bottom as well as the bottle.  I put my NMR in a squirt bottle (or put a squirt lid on theirs) and just fill the cup as I go.

My Badger brush has a small hose so it may work that way. I bought one at a hobby shop to paint model rockets, the model paints now come in bottles that fit the air brushes cap (well some do at least) but I did not know if NMR or Durakote came in the correct size jar necks.  Not to sound cheap but I just want to make each and every drop count.
Rich

No, you misunderstood.

See this picimage.misterart.com/grouppix/528x352/1000/g1642.jpg]this pic?  See the little metal cup with the stem sticking off the side?  That stem fits in the bottom where the hose from the bottle goes, and thecup has an open top.  You can just fit the cup in the brush and when it gets empty you quirt in a little more.  That way you're never having to pour the leftover out of the airbrush bottle.

Here's a pic of another cup.  This one looks like the one that came with my Badgers.

Got it... mine does not have that but I now that I think of it I am sure I can find a larger bottle at a hobby shop that may hold 4 or more oz and fit my brush and also find a longer hose that would reach to the bottom of the larger bottle.  This way I can just transfer the NMR or whatever I end up with and keep it stored in that individual bottle.

Now just to decide if I should try the KG or stick to NMR or Lauer. Everyone has good things to say about all of them.

Rich

Go with Norrell's, you won't be sorry!!

Too late... I gave KG a call and spoke to Debbie one of the owners. She was just a delight to talk to and was very helpful. I ordered several pints and was unsure of a couple of colors, the ones that I was unsure of she agreed to supply in a smaller quantity since I was buying several pints of others. The ones that I was really not sure of they are going to create color chips of and send them along with my package. I should have enough material to paint my keys as others have and even the lawn mower! I'll just leave it out in the Florida sun to bake.

If I really don't like the material I'll post it on the EE at a discounted price for the ones I do not open and try another product . But based on all the threads I have seen and a couple of photos it seems to be a good product. The #1 problem is the photos and web colors, as a computer/web geek and also long time photographer I know what you see usually is NOT what you get. It may be 100% for you but totally off on someone else's screen. I have not done much photography of my guns but I think I saw a thread somewhere on here about it. I guess I need to brush up and take some before photos, soon none of the guns will look the same again, except for that P220 in .38 Super maybe and the 1903A3, can't go crazy on the rare or historic ones!