I sighted in 2 EOTechs yesterday, a 552 and XPS
The 552 was on an AR-15 that has a complete Noveske upper.  The upper is not new.
The XPS was on an FNH  FS2000 bullpup.

I wanted to see what other guys have experienced with sighting EOTechs in.  On both guns they both started about 4" low at only 15 yds on a bench.

I should've counted how many clicks I had to turn the elevation knob (noob mistake) but at first I didn't think it would take so many turns.
But to move the dot up 4" seem to take close to 3 rotations or 30 clicks, I think there are only 40 clicks in either direction.  

Does the 4" low seem really low?  Does the adjustment seem excessive?  I was under the impression that there shouldn't a need for drastic adjustments.

After finally getting it sighted, I stood up and fired half a mag free hand and it was hitting the spots.  
Thanks for the info and help.

IIRC, I had to move my XPS2-0 quite a bit as well.

4" at 15 m is a LOT of inches at 100 m ...

H

From Eotech website, under Documentation:

http://www.eotech-inc.com/documents/M16A4-M4MWS_EOTech_Live_Fire_Target.pdf

Check mount, is this QD? Remount forward or backward. I had only a couple of clicks to adjust mine.

My 512 needed some adjustment as well.

Just a few clicks for W/E @25m.

Thanks for the help guys.

I'll play around with moving it back and forth.

I don't have QD mounts on these, they are the integral mount on the optic only.

I think that if your point of impact and point of aim are the same at 15 m, you are doing something wrong. At 15 m, your POI should be low, although 4 inches does seem a little much. Out of curiosity, I measured to see how high the center of my optic is compared to the center of my bore, and it is close to 3 inches. So your close range POI should never be more than 3" low (on an AR w/ EOTECH). I don't have an F2000 for comparison.

The adjustments should give you 1/2 MOA per click. So, two clicks per inch at 100 yd, four clicks per inch at 50, and 8 clicks per inch at 25.

Obviously, your bullet should be low until it reaches the range of your near-zero, say for example, 50 yards. It should then pass through zero and continue to rise to some point before it begins falling back down again to cross zero again at your far-zero, as an example 200 yards. You should select your near and far zero dependent on your cartridge's maximum point-blank range, for your given target's critical impact area, for your particluar rifle. So, if my target had a 10" diameter critical zone, I would want the highest point in the bullet's path to be 5" above my point of aim. This would ensure the bullet would travel as far as possible before going 5" below my point of aim. The combination of these two things would allow me the greatest variation in target range while still being able to hold directly on the center of my target, and not adjusting for drop, AKA maximum point-blank range.

Also, all firing for zero should be done from as stable a position as possible. I hope this was helpful.

Thanks a lot for the information and advice, Barthanatos.
Yes it is helpful.
I went to a range that was close by and is new.  They only had one private lane that could be used for rifles and it only had 15yds.
So that is why I was at 15yds and I'd figure I would just get zero'd on that and then go to another range to get it sighted for 25or 50yds.

Your info was helpful, I appreciate it.