I love the feel of it.  Very solid rifle.  Upper to lower fit is very tight.  I hit the mil spec trigger jackpot as somehow my trigger breaks at 4.5lbs measured from the tip and I can place my finger there since it has an enlarged trigger guard.  It is still has lots of creep like a mil spec trigger so I will replace it eventually..  

One thing that is kinda disappointing is the complete lack of heat shields under the handguards.  Who in the holy fuck had that idea especially with a light barrel that will heat up really fast..  The handguards off my CMMG .22 upper even had heatshields.  It doesn't matter in my case as I already have a tube to replace them but still....

Please let us know if it functions reliably, and with what ammo.

The trigger on mine was horrible but I just put Wilson TTU 2 stage in it..... Now if it will just top short stroking....  May have to go back.

Still waiting on my LGS to get another shipment in.  I'm number two on the wait list. I did get to fire about 40 rounds through one at a local range. I was impressed.

Pretty good deal here:  http://www.westernsport.com/product-p/sw-311308.htm

That's where I got mine and shipping was only $10 maybe since I am only one state away.  So I paid $1310 shipped plus $25 transfer fee.

I shot a bit through mine before I switched hand-guards and didn't notice anything unusual regarding heat buildup.  I was firing fairly slow as I was sighting it in, so that obviously helped.

I think that really the idea they had was getting the cheapest hand-guard they could.  I think they were successful in that for sure, because they are certainly cheap!

Most folks that I know always swap that kind of stuff off anyway, so probably not a big loss.

I have had very good luck with mine, I am certain that you will love yours as well.

Just got a few of these M&P 10's in the other day at my shop.  I already had two of them for myself and love them.  My son loves mine and wants his own now.

Joe

I'm testing it tomorrow with various loads using 155gr match bthp, 168gr match bthp,175gr bthp, and some 178 gr amax bullets.  Various brass in the loads depending on the bullet from Lapua to mixed military brass.  I just want to make sure it runs and is not terribly inaccurate like something is wrong.

If it runs well then I am sending it to have the barrel dimpled for my syrac adjustable gas block, troy trx 12" handguard installed, and yhm phantom qd flash hired installled.  I cod do the work but I do not have an ar10 vise clamp plus yhm will only warranty my suppressor if a finality installs the mount which is retarded.  I have not decided on an optic but it will be low power and light.

Is the firing pin spring needed?  First time I've seen one of those.

I saw this addressed on one of the gun show reviews for the M&P10 and per S&W they said that since the first change made to almost every AR is to swap the clam shell hand guards for something else they omitted the heat shields altogether to help keep the rifle price down.  Made complete sense to me after they explained it...that's a lot of aluminum when you look at the big picture.

I want an M&P10 so bad...

I got to test it today.  It was damn windy.

I bought the wrong staples for my staple gun which sucked.  All I had to shoot at was a large steel silhouette target of mine.  So testing for accuracy was difficult.  

All the HPBT ammo fed fine 155's, 168's, and 175's.  The amax loads were a smidgen to long for the pmags.  I was able to load the mags but the tips were rubbing the mag and caused them to move up sluggishly in the mag causing ftf's and other issues.  I suspect they would be fine in DPMS mags as they are the same length I used in my LR308 before .308 pmags were created.  I don't crimp match .308 loads as my neck tension is more than adequate so I will just seat the bullets a few thousandths more if I want to shoot the amax ammo I have loaded up.

The 155gr load I use is HOT.  With my LR308 this load would probably not only pierce the primer but actually have primer flow into the firing pin hole blocking the firing pin from igniting the next round.  The M&P10 though showed absolutely no signs of high pressure.

I wish I could attest to it's accuracy but my test was short and my target not ideal.

I managed to get one after I found out that they weigh less than 8#, and accept most .223 options.  I put on a better pistol grip, and moe handguards.  My complaint is the spring on the firing pin.  The rifle will not fire some suplus ammo,which all other .308's bolt, FNL, and my LR-308, do.  Evidently the spring is to prevent a slam fire, but also impedes the pin from striking the harder primer, hard enough to fire.  Quite a bummer on the first magazine and first round on a new rifle.  It fires all other ammo, newer suplus, and of course new ammo.  My goal is to not junk it up, w/ heavy accessories.  I had an eotec on it first, and needed a little magnifaction so a 6 power went on it.  A sling is next, and I think I will sell the LR308, or at least put it to the back of the vault, just too Damn heavy for a bad rt shoulder.  The DPMS magazines fit fine, and pmag magazines are unavailable at present, but the steel ones work fine.  Great rifle.  My go to in .308.

FYI, over the weekend I did some testing on my M&P 10, mainly around the firing pin spring.  I usually shoot my reloads through it, but occasionally shoot some of the steel case surplus stuff for cheap blasting fun.  Of course, like you mentioned above, the firing pin spring keeps that from happening.

So I did some testing with the firing pin spring removed.  I loaded up 1 round of the steel case surplus, and used the bolt release to see if I would get a slamfire.  I did not and it fired without incident when I pulled the trigger.  I then loaded up two rounds and repeated the process without incident.  I proceeded to shoot approximately 50 rounds of surplus through it without incident.  I then went to some factory brass ammo.  I loaded one round and used the bolt release to see if I would get a slamfire with the softer primers.  I did not.  There was a very slight indentation on the primer, just like I get with every other semi-auto firearm that I have fired.

To further test the necessity of the firing pin spring, when I got home, I loaded in a large pistol primer (thinner cup than a rifle primer) into a 308 empty case and tested it. I released the bolt 10 times with the pistol primered case in the chamber and did not get a discharge from a slamfire.  One interesting note was that after I had released the bolt that many times, the pistol primer was dented to the point that it would not fire at all, but at least I didn't get a slamfire.

Anyway, just figured that I would share my small experiment.

I bought one last week. The first three rounds through it went into a tad over a half inch. I'm gonna do the things that most of us do- change the handguard, new buttstock, lower gas block, new sights- probably a relatively low power scope. The load that I'm shooting is 41 gr. Of IMR 4895 pushing a 175gr Sierra BTHP. I like it so far.
The trigger is almost too good- not much creep and breaks at a little less than five pounds. I still may swap it out- I can't leave a rifle stock- gotta give it a little "personality".

This needed a shim for the qd hider to meet up with the shoulder.  I need to make the shim black now.

Not all that different from how mine ended up.  GMTA.

Curtis,














 

At first I would have popped in with "large rifle primers are a different height from large pistol primers, so your experiment isn't ..."  Then I got to the part where you said the pistol primers had been significantly dented.  The difference in dimensions is small, with large pistol primers being from 0.1150" to 0.1230" in height and large rifle primers being 0.1250" to 0.1330" in height, and typically this is a problem in the other direction; using rifle primers in a pistol case can give you high primers.

My Sig 716 has a firing pin spring as well, and I'm leaving it in, but your test was illuminating.  I'll bet both S&W and Sig use the springs for "just in case" scenarios, and/or avoidance of liability if Joe Knucklehead decides he's going to do something off-the-wall with his new rifle's ammo.

I thought this thread was about revolvers.  I got real excited when I saw OP's trigger pull.  Then I saw the heat shields comment.


Nice rifle,  OP.  My grandda left my brother a 5" S&W 10.  Sweet shooter & beautiful bluing.

What gas block did you use?

Daniel Defense, .75" Clamp Low Profile, part number 25-079-05006.

1. AAC Brakeout FSC 7.62MM 51T 5/8X24.
2. Troy low profile.308 TRX BattleRail 13.8".
3. Troy Gas Block 2" .750 Low Profile.
4. Geissele SSA trigger.
5. MBUS, front & rear.
6. Magpul grip.
7. Magpul CTR mil-spec stock.
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/mrfuninthesun/100_2444.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/mrfuninthesun/100_2456.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/mrfuninthesun/100_2447.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/mrfuninthesun/100_2445.jpg
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i345/mrfuninthesun/100_2453.jpg

RamAK, did you have to pull the ambi bolt release (during installation only) to get the hammer in?  I couldn't get the SSA-E in without doing so, which seemed weird to me.

Yes. Its the only way to get the SSA in. I read about it here first.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p10-rifles/313494-geissele-trigger-fit.html

...reading that first could have saved me a good 40 minutes of farting around.  

I've been tossing around making a replacement pin for the roll pin, as trigger removal/replacement get quite tedious and the wear/tear on the receiver. Something like the KNS perma pin firing pin retainer.

FYI guys, the Rainier Arms Raptor 7.62 ambi charging handle does not fit the M&P 10. It appears the channel for the gas key is too shallow.

the BCM charging handle won't fit either. totally proprietary part as is the BCG.
just put in a Badger extended instead.