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Posted: 10/25/2013 9:48:55 AM EDT
[#1]
Loctite works man
I locktite everything on a rifle. Otherwise I will have it come loose |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 9:49:58 AM EDT
[#2]
Loctite.
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Posted: 10/25/2013 9:52:19 AM EDT
[#3]
Won't the heat coming from the barrel weaken the loctite though? I can understand where the OP is coming from with his concern
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Posted: 10/25/2013 10:06:01 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Won't the heat coming from the barrel weaken the loctite though? I can understand where the OP is coming from with his concern I use blue loctite on my gas block set screws. Never came loose. So the heat from the hanguard will be much less than that of a gas block |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 10:29:57 AM EDT
[#5]
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments.
Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 10:31:45 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments. Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. Blue loctite would be cheap insurance. And still very easily removed as it doesnt have a high break rating |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 1:59:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments. Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments. |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 3:21:57 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments. Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments. It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself. |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 4:05:45 PM EDT
[#9]
Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having.
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Posted: 10/25/2013 4:06:56 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments. Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. He's saying the whole rail is coming loose, not the attachments. It looks to me the OP was stating his 9 slot Noveske rail section was coming loose, not the Keymod forearm itself. |
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Posted: 10/25/2013 4:21:53 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having. I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose. 
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Posted: 10/26/2013 10:48:25 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No loc-tite is needed with key mod. The whole idea is to be able to quickly place or remove attachments. Your inserts may have settled after the first torque and need to re-torqued. Make sure you have full engagement and the attachment isn't hanging up out of the key-way. Then torque. That should do it for you. My thoughts exactly. Loctite is useful, but but shouldn't be the only thing holding the rail on. Ill try your suggestion lndyryder, thank you. And yes, its the rail segment coming loose, not the attachment or the handguard. |
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Posted: 10/26/2013 11:13:52 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Wow I thought the keymod was suppose to fix this problem that a lot of tube rails have been having. I didn't realize there was a problem with round rails. I've been using Apex hand guards for the last few years. I've Never had anything come loose. |
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Posted: 10/26/2013 1:16:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Just like lugnuts, need to re-torque them after the first few miles (suggested on aluminum rims)... I re-tighten every important screw and bolt after the first few uses.
Also, torque them down... Loosen them, then re-torque. (Just a habit I have from auto work) Don't know if that'll help, but its just another tip 
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Posted: 10/26/2013 4:11:34 PM EDT
[#15]
Topic Moved
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